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  #11  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordneeko View Post
But I was riding down the highway at 50mph...i imagine i had enough juice.
It would depend on the electrical load, the condition of the charging system and the quality of the connections. A marginal connection would fit the symptoms.
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:45 AM
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hmm..guess i'm going to have to check all the connectors in the light.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2012, 01:22 PM
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I replaced the POS controller twice. The third time I replaced it with a DPDT 3 position toggle switch. I wired one side of the switch in parallel and the other in series with the center off. This yields a high and low heat setting that has worked out very well even running Grip Puppies.
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  #14  
Old 11-07-2012, 02:43 PM
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^^^ this ^^^
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lordneeko View Post
hmm..guess i'm going to have to check all the connectors in the light.
This was a long time ago, but i wanted to rant.

So with this system, it is actually really easy to tell where the problem is. When there is no heat, the controller-panel is lit up just like normal. So I know the DIN connector probably isn't the problem (assuming no pins are bent).

And since it is both grips that are not heating, then it must be the little white connector from the controller-box to the pig-tail which goes to the two grips connectors. I'm assuming the wires aren't pushed in good, or come unseated with vibration inside the connector. Because all i have to do is reach down and jiggle it (probably not smart while riding, but i get cold! lol) and they start heating up.

So, my question is, has anyone out there snipped off these connectors and used something else? I'd prefer not to permenantly attach the wires by crimping or soldering, because i like the thought of being able to unplug them (for whatever reason). Is there another set of connectors that are more reliable?

thanks.
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  #16  
Old 12-27-2012, 03:01 PM
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not being a smart a$$ but do you see yourself needing to take heated grips off and on? why not solder? if you NEED to unplug them for some reason side cuts or a pocket knife work well.
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  #17  
Old 12-28-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by kdogzx7 View Post
not being a smart a$$ but do you see yourself needing to take heated grips off and on? why not solder? if you NEED to unplug them for some reason side cuts or a pocket knife work well.
The only reason I can think is in the case of installing new accessories and wanting to rerun wires. It is VERY crowded inside there and I did quite a bit of studying before deciding where everything would go.

Anyways, that might end up being my solution, just hoping the find a more reliable plug i could use instead.
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2012, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordneeko View Post
The only reason I can think is in the case of installing new accessories and wanting to rerun wires. It is VERY crowded inside there and I did quite a bit of studying before deciding where everything would go.

Anyways, that might end up being my solution, just hoping the find a more reliable plug i could use instead.
Cut off the cheap plastic bullet connectors and use posi-locks instead? That would be an easy "semi-permanent" solution. I've got a few in my Oxford wire run.
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  #19  
Old 12-29-2012, 02:33 PM
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Okay, so I found the problem. I pulled apart the cheap plastic main connector going to the controller box and then to the pigtails and I noticed some brown scarring on 1 of the pins. It looks like the flange opening had been shoved open a little bit, probably my fault, and it was likely causing arcing or loss of connection, and the arcing was likely creating a lot of heat. So, I wasn't able to get
Quote:
posi lock
connectors because the nearest retailer of them is not conveniently located. So I just decided to use mechanical crimps. It works great now and I think the grips are hotter now that they are not losing connection

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  #20  
Old 01-22-2013, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I like these better. A continuously variable rang on a single knob works great for me.
My Oxford controller just failed, luckily not a critical time. I will replace it with a heat-troller. No more buttons!
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