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Problem with Oxford Hot grip

17K views 49 replies 21 participants last post by  greywolf 
#1 ·
Bought my 650 k7 with Oxford Hotgrips and the left grip does not heat.
Had the garage to check it out and they said that the wiring was fine but the control unit was not giving any power on one of the sides. After that both sides worked for a while, but now the left has stopped heating again. In addition, I hate the button.

So:
1. I dont like the control, the "buttons" are very hard to press. Would have much preferred proper buttons.
2. See little reason to replace the handles since they obviously work, it is only the control unit that is not working properly.

What to do? Can I get a replacement for the oxford control? Are there other controls that would do the same job but that has better buttons?

Thanks for any ideas on this. I really need the heated grips since I do commute with the bike every week, also in December...
 
#38 ·
It's just a little plastic ridge. I used a Dremel grinder on the last bike. The previous one took a file. I didn't take off the entire ridge, just enough to get the new grip to clear the bar end weight.
 
#39 ·
The bar end ridge is not the problem child. I am discussing the large one that is towards the switch and is over double the size of the end one, tapered and right next to another small one like the end one that I think should stay to locate the grip away from the switch. I already removed the outer one. There are also a bunch of raised ribs that will need removal along the length of the throttle pipe.
 
#40 ·
That's the one I'm talking about. Even if you took it off entirely, it wouldn't be a problem. The new grip will be glued to the tube in the proper position.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Yes, I knew if it was glued on it would be fine. I just was trying to keep all smooth and nice. My friends use a word for that pertaining to me, yes, anal, that would be it. Anyway I had the machinist remove the large lip and since the throttle pipe did not hold up well in the lathe he just scraped the ribs off that run lengthwise. I purchased the new Oxford Premier Adventure grips and you have to trim them down in length to fit. They are marked and easy to cut. The mount for the switch is a mirror to what I wanted so I had another made out of stainless. The supplied one is on the left and the made one on the right. I am SO much happier with these grips than the Suzuki cost is no object grips. Those will be appearing on eBay soon and I am test riding the new grips as soon as I finish typing this. :thumbup:
Update: I have had a couple of rides with the Oxford grips and there is no comparison. They are so much better. My number one complaint is that each time you turn off the bike the grips turn off so when you start out you not only have to turn them on but keep pushing the button to set the temp you want. 100% you may use to warm them quicker but unless you have a lot of padding on the grip side of your gloves it will be too warm.
 

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#43 ·
I have an FZ1 fuse box mounted under the seat where my Powerlet outlets, Gerbing controller and the heated grips are wired into. No reason why you could not use the OEM connector that I can think of.

Rudy
 
#44 ·
I installed oxford grips on my 2012. Ordered the horn pigtail from Suzuki for 13 bucks and tapped right into stock grip plug per Greywolf above. However when all wired up, the controller functioned normal but no heat to grips. (DANG!) After trouble shooting, I noted that the connector from the module to the grips had the terminals (female) spread open and a poor contact. Tightened them up and applied some di electric grease to prevent and corrosion BINGO warm hands... One question though, do the grip have a low voltage shut off? When I turn them on in the morning the low level (blue) light flashes momentarily with the power on light then only power on light. Once I start the machine the grip heat level light will operate normal. I thinking that when the battery is cold from being in shed all night, not enough juice being delivered until I start it. Any thoughts? :confused:
 
#45 ·
The Oxfords are designed to connect directly to the battery and to shut off when the system doesn't have enough voltage to be charging. That's so they don't drain the battery if left on when the ignition is off.
 
#46 ·
Yep, mine weren't advertised as having the battery saving mode, but I noticed that the light that turns on next to the selected percentage (heat setting) turns off when I attempted to turn them on when the bike was not running. So apparently even the previous version does this.
 
#49 ·
FWIW, to anyone having trouble with the oxford unit, my first set went out on one side after a few days. Turns out, it was not the controller unit, but the end plugs loosened by testing, routing, and refitting. Some prodding with a pick tightened up the connections and they have worked fine ever since.

OTOH, after about five years, the controller on my scooter is getting flaky. The power increase button doesn't want to work on very cold (for FL) days :headbang: Works fine other times at milder temps. Would like to replace it with a simple knob that goes from 0 to 10 (or might be willing to pay for one that would go to 11). What should I get? Is that what a heattroller is?

All of my grips are on switched power (learned that the hard way).
 
#50 ·
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