StromTrooper banner

Trailering the bike

5K views 45 replies 22 participants last post by  michael2480 
#1 ·
It looks like I'll be picking up a 2012 Wee on Saturday, located about 3 hours away. The weather's looking iffy enough here in the upper Midwest that I don't think I'll be riding it home. So I expect to trailer it back.

I've only trailered a bike once before, and it was for a drive of less than an hour. That was my first bike, a Honda Nighthawk. I nosed it into the front corner of my trailer, put it up on the center stand and strapped the bejesus out of it. Still, I spent a lot of time looking in the rearview mirror to make sure it hadn't fallen over. Since then, I've heard horror stories about center stands giving way and bikes toppling over during trailering.

My trailer is a pretty standard 4x8 with a wood deck and an open rail around the edges, about 12" high.

Tonight, I bought a wheel chock from a guy via craigslist that I plan to install before the weekend. So that will hopefully help secure the front wheel. I also have some D-rings that I'll be adding to the deck as well.

I also plan to make a run to the hardware store to pick up some extra tie-downs.

The bike I'm getting has a center stand. Plus, it has the tipover bars and Givi rack. So I figure there are ample places to attach my straps.

Any suggestions on the best approach to strapping it down?
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Canyon dancers are your friends. Just make sure to loosen them up once you are complete. I know a couple of riders have blown out fork seals by compressing it pretty good and then driving 10 or 12 hours.

Definitely DO NOT put the bike up on the center stand! You are taking away the bikes own suspension capabilities. Ain't no shock on that center stand!

Bring some old towels or t-shirts and utilize them if you must have your tie downs touching any part of your bike (especially bodywork). If tied down right, that won't be an issue.

Drive for about 10 miles or 20 miles, pull over and recheck everything. I too, glance incessantly in the rearview expecting to see my bike flying off the bed of my truck when I tow it that way (I have an enclosed bike trailer as well).

Good luck!
 
#3 ·
Ditto on NOT using the centerstand. And make sure your D-rings are far enough apart to give you a good angle for the tie down straps. On the rear wheel you only need a line to each side to keep the bike in pretty much a straight line when you jump that curb ... doesn't have to be lashed down vertically. Let the suspension work, front and rear.
 
  • Like
Reactions: strom lurker
#4 ·
this from my. experience

no stands in use
tie downs to lower fork triple and to rear luggage rack
compress your suspension a bit
do not use open hook cheap tie downs unless you separately tie each hook to its attachment point, else at least one will come loose ( from experience)

a set of captive hook tie downs is GREAT peace of mind
 
#5 ·
If you are fitting and using the front wheel chock ensure that you secure the rear wheel as well. I used to run a dog collar around the angle iron runners and bottom of the wheel to strap the wheel to the trailer but as you have a wooden deck maybe a tiedown from rear corner to rear corner looping through and around the wheel where it touches the trailer.

Does your wheel chock actually grab the front wheel or do you need to strap in in as well? It's best if you can secure both wheels to the trailer and then allow it to move on its suspension.
 
#10 ·
Does your wheel chock actually grab the front wheel or do you need to strap in in as well? It's best if you can secure both wheels to the trailer and then allow it to move on its suspension.
The chock I got doesn't grab the wheel. It's pretty much just U-shaped chrome tubing I can bolt into the deck. So I'll want to secure that too.

Very similar to this.

When I got home tonight, I test-fitted the chock on my Concours. The tubing rubbed against the front brake disks a bit. Is that likely to be a problem with the V-Strom as well? If so, I may try to bend the tubing down or splay it apart a bit, as I don't want to damage the disks.
 
#6 ·
One strap around the middle fork crossover on each side will keep bike from falling over, then you add a couple of straps at the back around the swingarm and secure it. Wheel chock is a good idea. Bike remains on wheels as mentioned, no stands.

Most important, do not put a tarp on it, the tarp will tear your paint off no matter how tight you think you have it. Let it get dirty and wash it after.
 
#7 ·
As others have said use the lower triple clamp to secure the front and you should also secure the rear very well in case you are unfortunate enough to rear-end another vehicle on the way home, it stops your new bike landing on the roof of your tow vehicle.
 
#8 ·
I use these "soft" tie downs. The red part loops around the attachment point on the bike so it won't scratch your baby. The higher you you place the tie downs on the bike, the more leverage they have to keep the bike from tipping over. I like to put them on the handle bars (on the bottom bend by the risers) when possible. You may be able to secure the straps from the handle bars to the top rail on your trailer. Just don't mess up any wires or cables. You could also put a second pair on the rear grab handles. The suspension should be partially compressed but not bottomed out. It's actually much easier and more secure than you are anticipating. The wheel chock is a good idea As previously stated do not use the center stand



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9 · (Edited)
All good advise. If you think you need protection from the elements:

1. Put a soft bedsheet (or several) over the area to be protected and secure with bungees
2. Put thin and flimsy drop cloth PVC foil over all.
3. Followed by another set of bedsheets and more bungees.

This setup will prevent any damage to the finish but will also keep the salt of the bike. If it's just wet I wouldn't worry since you will ride in the rain as well. Salt spray is a different matter.

I had the dealer help me securer mine. Just 4 decent strength tie downs, 2 going forward, 2 going back, moderately tight, no stands. I used separate Nylon tie down loops around the subframe and the fork tubes, they are no scratch. Drove over 200 miles. Check the tie-downs in case they get wet, they tend to stretch a little when wet!n
 

Attachments

#11 ·
You want to secure your bike so that it does not, or cannot rub against anything. Ensure all straps will not rub or flap against ANY part of your bike.

Do not cover any part of the bike. Any cloth or strap will inevitably flap against and damage the paint or plastic.

Use tiedowns that have a loop as above and secure them twice around the top of the fork stantion so that the forks can still move on the suspension (does not work for USD forks) and secure the back wheel from moving sideways or up.
 
#14 ·
tie down rings/hooks should be secured thru the decking to the frame

wasn't my bike, but I've seen what happens when secured just to the decking, I've seen the rings pull screws out of the decking, I've seen decking boards snap, when the trailer hits rough going, a pothole one time, another time just the rumble strip at the edge of the road

then there's this option :wink2:
 
#16 ·
tie down rings/hooks should be secured thru the decking to the frame

wasn't my bike, but I've seen what happens when secured just to the decking, I've seen the rings pull screws out of the decking,

Good advice, but if not possible/desirable to attach to the frame, use of nuts/bolts/washers to attach the lashing hooks to the deck can decrease the likelihood of any issues.

That's not what I did, of course, but I thought about it. In my case, the screws held, but if I were trailering the bike regularly, I'd go the nut/bolt/washer route at least.
 
#21 ·
I don't think I saw it mentioned in the thread but make sure you DO NOT leave the bike in gear. Put it in neutral. Years ago we raced a Southwest Late Model car and learned the hard way that when left in gear, any vehicle motion of rocking back and forth can cause wear and tear on piston rings. Don't ask me how I know this.
 
#22 ·
Probably can't get them by Saturday but these are awesome tie downs with snap hooks. You can get them ratchet style too.
? 1½" FAT STRAPS :: 1½" x 6ft CAM BUCKLE SOFT-TYE TIE-DOWNS,<br>LATCH HOOKS (pair) - POWERTYE AMERICAN MADE TIE-DOWNS AND ACCESSORIES
I like the bike out of gear, on the kick stand. Front wheel against the front of the trailer or in a chock. Straps of the tie down around the handlebars (canyon dancers on a sport bike with clip on bars). Other end of tie down in the front corners of the trailer or truck bed. Tighten the left tie down a bit. Tighten the right tie down until the bike leans right a bit. Tighten the left tie down until bike is vertical. Check tension, repeat if necessary. Put tie downs on passenger pegs or rear rack. Other end to deck of trailer at the side. Add tension.. ready to go.
This is one of those things you can definitely over think and "what if" to death. 4 tie downs should get it done. In most cases the front 2 are all you really need.
Like oil and chain lube, everybody has a favorite. I would guess that people who have hauled bikes 50 times use less tie downs than people who have done it once or twice.
 
#24 ·
I triple check my tie down straps several times before I take off driving with the trailer. I use duct tape on the free end of the strap to keep it from flapping around in the wind. Also, stay away from those cam type buckle that pinch the webbing, use a ratchet type buckle/strap. Have seen some of those pinch buckles get worn and the pinch point doesn't pinch so well. Just don't ratchet the strap such that it fully compresses the shock.

Basically look things over thoroughly before driving and if you think something doesn't look secure to your liking, rework what you have done. But, you can overthink these things. Lots of good advice follows your post. You Tube is your buddy so spend some time reviewing applicable videos. Good luck and enjoy the new to you bike!
 
#26 ·
I say if you are in Madison area, just reconsider and ride the bike. Temps will be well above freezing and just a little rain. I have only trailered a bike once...back in the 70's when I blew a seal. When I take the bike on a ferry, I always leave it in gear and would do this while trailering although you will hear various opinions. I also use a piece of heavy duty velcro wrapped around the front brake lever (this would likely reduce the bike from rocking back and forth on transmission gears while in gear) and would always only use the sidestand or in the case of trailers, just center the bike and ratchet down.
 
#27 ·
Also, stay away from those cam type buckle that pinch the webbing, use a ratchet type buckle/strap. Have seen some of those pinch buckles get worn and the pinch point doesn't pinch so well. Just don't ratchet the strap such that it fully compresses the shock.
I think ratchet vs. cam strap could go the route of 'best oil' or 'best tires', if allowed to. I watched several YouTube videos and some of them were die-hard cam strappers (ratchets give all at once when you release them and will make you drop your bike) and others touted ratchet straps (cams are failure-prone and will make you drop your bike). I'm a cam strap guy -- despite owning several ratchet straps, I am apparently genetically incapable of operating them properly -- so I bought 4 new straps this week.

Getting back to the U-Haul trailer, I had something interesting happen on that front. Shortly after I made my reservation, I received one email confirming my reservation, and another saying I had to have my vehicle and hitch approved by the U-Haul location before picking up the trailer. I've never had this happen before, even though I've rented trailers several times from U-Haul. So I called customer service. They said that, because my SUV is over 8 years old, this is now a requirement, to ensure the hitch isn't too rusty and that the electronics worked.

Instead of taking it to the location where I'm picking up the trailer (which is about 20 miles away), I ran it over to my local U-Haul place and he checked it out for me. I got the thumbs-up and I should be good for Saturday.

As for riding the bike home, I certainly considered it. But the forecast shows a 90% chance of rain all day. I think I'd like a little normal saddle time on the new ride before having to ride it for 3-4 hours in the rain.
 
#28 ·
Ratchet will not give away all at once in my experience but you have to be careful, just as with the cam type. I am able to lean the bike away from the left side such that the left strap is holding the bike at a lean to the right. Then remove the right strap, move to the left side, hold the bike upright and remove the strap quite easily. But, that's just my experience, everyone should use what makes sense to them.
 
#29 ·
When ever I use the cam type I loop the leftover strap around the taught strap just below the cam, if there is any slip the loop will tighten under the cam and stop the slip.

It is cam types for me in most situations.

I did use a ratchet type on my boat and trailer for a while until one day I could not get it to undo and I had to cut the strap so I could get my boat in the water.

Since then the one on my boat is a metal loop and a hook that you twist and hook under the strap, no mechanical parts to jam up, no problems getting the boat into the water.

They work on boats because the strap is always the same length.

I make a lot of my own straps with webbing and glue, before my bride or daughter dispose of any old handbags they visit my shed and I cut off and keep any rings or D loops to use in my strap making.
 
#30 ·
DON'T leave the side stand down and DON'T leave the bike in gear. The bike should be vertical anyway which will bring the sidestand into the air but you to not want any lever that might work against the tie downs.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Ta-da!



OK, full-confession: Having only 4 straps made me nervous so, after snapping this pic, I ran 2 more from the tipover bars to the trailer's front d-rings.

I made the 3-hour drive without problem.

Thanks for the great tips and advice.
 
#34 ·
As for riding the bike home, I certainly considered it. But the forecast shows a 90% chance of rain all day. I think I'd like a little normal saddle time on the new ride before having to ride it for 3-4 hours in the rain.
BTW, I made the right call on this. Rain and temps in the low 40s most of the way back. Since I was driving right by the U-Haul dealer on my way home, I stopped, unloaded the bike, and returned the trailer. Then I rode the bike 20 miles home in the cold rain.

Even though I have decent riding gear, I've apparently gotten soft riding behind the Concours's full fairing and giant windscreen for the last few years. My hands were pretty frigid by the time I pulled into the garage. Looks like one of my first farkles is going to be heated grips.
 
#37 ·
Buy a Pitbull trailer restraint, light straps on fire. Enjoy trailering without worrying.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top