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The Big Oil Thread!!!! The Only Oil Thread!!!!

854K views 4K replies 745 participants last post by  jettawreck 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I don't know how picky you are about the oil you put in your bike, and if you are completely happy with Dino 10W40 for $2 a quart, this post isn't for you. (Although, I am sure a couple cannot resist the temptation to post sarcastically.....Yeah, yeah....another oil thread.)

But, if you are like me, sitting on top of your engine, listening for every sound, feeling every vibration, wondering about power, questioning each quirk......wanting the best. Then I challenge you to a test.

For the past 8,000 miles, including regular oil changes around engine break-in...I have been using Rotella 5W40. After conversations with friends who drive European sports cars and doing a lot of additional research, I changed to Mobile 1 0W40. (Oil Rating Algorithm in the Oil Bible: Rotella 5W40 - 730, M1 0W40 - 768) This oil was designed for high-performance, high-stressed, high-RPM.....turbocharged sports cars.

I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt I prefer it to Rotella.

NThisoil is not for most, as it sells for about 6.99 a quart, but it will be my oil of choice until something better comes along.

Anyway, if you have an interest......give the 0W40 a try.

PS. In no way do I think Rotella is better than M1 0W40 (except flash point).....but Rotella could very well be the best choice for iaboutthe amount you spend. Rotella has more value, but it is not the best. The highest rated 40 weight was Amsoil 10W40 at 769.
 
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#5 ·
I appreciate the information. I'm just getting ready to make the switch to Amsoil MC specific 10W40 and was wondering how it rated against other oils. You've given me the answer. Thanks.

SS
 
#7 ·
After reading much (certainly not all...can't be done :bom_shocked3:) of the oil info on this site and others, including this http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf and this http://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

I deceided to use this http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Racing_4T_10W-40.aspx (Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40)

It was pricey at nearly $10US a quart but it seemed the 'safest' option. I also bought the NAPA GOLD 1359 oil filter. It seems that 'hedging' the oil question to save a few dollors isn't worth it. For that matter, just spending the time to research the 'oil question' isn't worth the savings.

Hmmm, just my .02 cents....
 
#8 ·
If spending a lot of money on designer oil is your thing, then you should buy it by the drum. Racing oils, oils for high milage rides & any other "special lubercant" are special to the retailer.

Can you say, SNAKE OIL?

Marketing is great in this country. & do we all buy into it.

Your DL-1000 or DL-650 doesn't care if you spend $2. a qt or $12.

But we seem to get all warm & have great expectations as to how our motor/transmission & clutch for most MCs, are now going to be transformed into the fire breathing, asphalt blistering beast that we have always lusted for.

Sure there is some difference between some oils, but are we really driving a machine & then driving in such a way that we honestly believe we are in such a tiny percent of a percent that might even then reap the benefits that are the additive difference between oils?

If it makes you feel better to believe in "snake oil" & how a simple oil/filter chance w/ designer oil is the only way your bike will survive then empty your wallet. But to emply to the new bike owner that this or that is "better", just is not for the VStrom rider.

Follow the suggested guide lines in your manual & the weight for your climate.
That doesn't mean to buy the dealer's selection of oil.

It's you money, just don't get sucked into the BS of oil chat.
 
#9 ·
Get ready to hurl in your wheaties. I have the coolest oil combo by far. Amsoil 10-40 w/ 10% lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. Everybody flags me down as I'm riding and says, "hey! Is that amsoil 10-40 w/ 10% lucas oil stabilizer you have in your crankcase"? To which I reply, "hell yeah motherf'er" --then we high five and exchange pleasantries. If it's a female, we rent a motel room and function as creepy animals for 20 min. As she moans approval of the lucas fuel treatment that I also use in every tank.
 
#10 ·
my 2c Valvoline M/C 20-50 $4.29/ qt. 65K on 03 Vee. 70-100 mph daily. I bet that taking 2 identical bikes, one with a designer oil and one with a regular M/C specific oil, one would not be able to tell even the slightest difference between the two,in a blind test. I had a Suz. parts guy try to talk me into some $10.99/ qt Red Line oil once. He said that he runs it in his bike and loved it. I asked what the difference was that he noticed. He said that the tach needle on his bike was steadier at idle! Again, just my 2c:) Everybody be safe!!
 
#11 ·
This is absolutely fascinating.

What's the best oil for chrome-plated pistons?
 
#139 ·
Mobil 1 15W50 is also a favorite of mine. Wow, my WeeStrom ran great with that stuff. The only thing, Blackstone proves that it shears a ton...very quickly. But heck, if it shears to a 40wt or even a high 30wt, it should be really good for the Strom.


I own a nice bass boat with the HPDI Yamaha 200 hp motor. You have to fill the 2 cycle reservoir with oil... you can buy Yamaha oil for a zillion $ per gallon, or other after-market oil for 1/2 a zillion $ per gallon, OR WalMart oil for $5-$6 a gallon. Sure, I want that motor to last forever (they cost $18k just for the motor, not kidding...) but if you look up the specs in regard to what meets the standards, WalMart oil is on the same list as the expensive stuff.

2 years later, with nothing but WalMart $5 oil, the motor is as new.

My diesel VW requires 505.01 spec oil or you WILL void the warranty, and that spec comes in several brands. Yes, I'd swear I can hear a difference in the engine tone/volume with Elf (for instance) vs. Castrol... but if I change it on time it makes no difference.

So... IMO, if the motorcycle oil meets manufacturers' spec, and you change it on time, it doesn't matter beyond personal preference.

You are right. But only Oil Analysis can be the proof in the puddin. I know that WalMart Synthetic is pretty darn good stuff for car engines and will go 5k-7k miles.

But we aren't talking car engines.

We are talking motorcycle engines...one's that also lube the tranny....and that is a big deal. Oil will shear down much, much faster.

Anyway, I agree that anyone that stays with the manufacturer's OCI...be it dino or synth....they will be good.

I have come to appreciate extended OCI's....and in about a week, I will change to Amsoil...to run it through the Summer....for miles and miles. I am going to run it at least 5k miles and then do an oil analysis with Blackstone...and will post for everyone.

Only time will tell.
 
#14 ·
Lots of good oil out there and your bike won't explode if you use non motorcycle specific oil. With that said, I make my choice based on how well the gear box behaves. For me, Amsoil works for nice snickety shifting and keeps that snickety behaviour longer than a lot of oil I have tried. Just my preference and YMMV...

TM
 
#15 ·
Treading Oil Here

:) Use Castrol Actevio Dino/Snyth blend at 10w 40 in the Wee. I used the Suzuki Mineral Oil for the break in and switched last year. Yeah does it make a difference, only between my ears when I really twist Pegsus's tail real hard. Otherwise I just look at it as "added" protection. I'm basised towards synthetics due to the exclusive use of them in my cars. Never had a engine related problem with the "spirited" driving I do!! The wife's truck has been upgraded to a blend to help with the "cold" weather starts up where in NH in the win'ta :)
I like the K&N Oil Filters for the 1 inch nut I can get a wrench or socket around to put on and take off on the bike and both cars.
 
#16 ·
Has anyone heard of . . .

Just out of curiosity, has anyone heard of an engine break down do to improper lubrication from using any oil? Not even in cages have I heard of an engine being destroyed by using any oil. It just doesn't happen now a days. All oil is good some are better than others with there additives to reduce friction at start up but really, it doesn't matter what oil you use, just change it at the correct intervals.
 
#2,296 ·
Excellent point

Just out of curiosity, has anyone heard of an engine break down do to improper lubrication from using any oil? Not even in cages have I heard of an engine being destroyed by using any oil. It just doesn't happen nowadays. All oil is good some are better than others with there additives to reduce friction at startup but really, it doesn't matter what oil you use, just change it at the correct intervals.
The fact is all legitimate oils work fine. It's amazing how much time, and energy we spend in focusing on some special obscure lubrication cocktail when the cheapest wall mart special, without friction modifier, will give us the same protection and engine life. I go to Sturgis every year,(you have to go if you haven't been there) and see literally hundreds of thousands of bikes. I don't ever remember anyone saying they had anything that resembled an engine failure due to inadequate lubrication.
 
#17 ·
Lousy shifting after 1st oil change

Took my 2007 1000 into the dealer's shop for the 600 mile once over that Suzuki recommends. Shifting was smooooth with the break-in oil in the belly.
I asked the service rep about having them use synthetic since they were changing the oil then anyway. You would have thought I asked for mayo on my corned beef sandwich. No No No I was told. This will void your warranty and likely cause clutch damage. Sounded like BS to me but I let it slide. They used 10-40 Suzuki oil and it ain't been the same since. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th is now an adventure. Don't know if they will be there on the first try or not. It sometimes takes a couple tries. Also, dropping into 1st from neutral clunks hard. Shifts better in the heat of the afternoon than on cool mornings.
We already had a couple of days over 100 deg here in Sacramento. I've kept up with these oil threads and hear you guys raving about synth. Does it really make that much difference in the gearbox? Ive never used it. Always had old beater bikes not worth the extra cost.
 
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#20 ·
Took my 2007 1000 into the dealer's shop for the 600 mile once over that Suzuki recommends. Shifting was smooooth with the break-in oil in the belly.
I asked the service rep about having them use synthetic since they were changing the oil then anyway. You would have thought I asked for mayo on my corned beef sandwich. No No No I was told. This will void your warranty and likely cause clutch damage. Sounded like BS to me but I let it slide. They used 10-40 Suzuki oil and it ain't been the same since.
What! Void warranty with better oil!? Again... WHAT?

-Steve
 
#19 ·
In my little world

I think it's worth it for the blend in the bike and truck and full on synthetic in the car. But YMMV. :) I'm also anal about changes, I change more often depending on what's coming up, but that's just me.
 
#24 ·
Big Feet

Funny you should say that Rubicon. I don't have dainty feet either. I use a couple different pairs of boots, depending on which ones I can find in the morning. Red Wings with pretty much flat bottoms: lousy shift. Double H harness boots with distinct heels that hang up on the footpegs: good shift! There might be something to your theory after all. Maybe the angle of the dangle (of the boots) makes some kind of subtle difference that only the gearbox gods are aware of. Or perhaps you jest. Call me crazy but I'm losing the Red Wings for a while . They're pretty ratty anyway.
 
#25 ·
Whoops!

Meant that post to respond to WeThereYet's theory. Rubicon, I've tasted some olive oil that belonged in a gearbox. The only liquid gold I know of comes in a bottle in a blue box in a blue bag.
 
#28 ·
relate oil to marine 2 cycle oil

I own a nice bass boat with the HPDI Yamaha 200 hp motor. You have to fill the 2 cycle reservoir with oil... you can buy Yamaha oil for a zillion $ per gallon, or other after-market oil for 1/2 a zillion $ per gallon, OR WalMart oil for $5-$6 a gallon. Sure, I want that motor to last forever (they cost $18k just for the motor, not kidding...) but if you look up the specs in regard to what meets the standards, WalMart oil is on the same list as the expensive stuff.

2 years later, with nothing but WalMart $5 oil, the motor is as new.

My diesel VW requires 505.01 spec oil or you WILL void the warranty, and that spec comes in several brands. Yes, I'd swear I can hear a difference in the engine tone/volume with Elf (for instance) vs. Castrol... but if I change it on time it makes no difference.

So... IMO, if the motorcycle oil meets manufacturers' spec, and you change it on time, it doesn't matter beyond personal preference.
 
#29 ·
I`ve used about any oil you can think of in my strom,but my last oil change tops them all.I had about 6k on the oil,went to do a change and dreaded a trip to get oil(had filter)so I looked around to see what I had in the way of leftovers.--1qt BP full syn 5w30+1/2qt BP 15w40 HD diesel+1/2qt Castrol 15w40 HD diesel+1qt(in can aprox 15yrs old)straight40wt.
Top that!
 
#31 ·
When I make popcorn I put Orville Redenbacker soybean oil in a cup, then add some real butter, then some margarine. Throw it in the microwave for 18 seconds and pour it on the popcorn. Why? Because the topping still tastes like pure butter but with far less saturated fat. I bet that's the result of your oil mixture also.:D
 
#32 · (Edited)
My wife, when she was single and I didn't know her, bot a Renault auto new(her first car) and after driving it for 3 years a mechanic checked her oil one day. He said "when was the last time you changed the oil?" She said " I didn't know you had to change the oil". Therefore, I am the default manager of car maintenance at our house.
 
#34 · (Edited by Moderator)
What are you using? Synthetic? Suzuki? Mobile 1?



EDIT:FROM BIG B
Seems this is a very popular topic "on any moto forum".......so I am gonna merge and sticky this very fun and informative topic. Any more threads that are started about oil, will either be merged to here or deleted.

Thanks,

Brian
 
#193 ·
Ok, I'm using Amsoil and have ridden 4900 miles since the last change and filter. Some people still recommend the 3k mile change, some 5k, some 7k, and I've even heard people say 10k miles with Amsoil.


I don't want to risk any damage to my engine but don't want to be a fool changing it all the time either. What is a common interval for people here using Amsoil?
 
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