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General V-Strom Discussion Talk about all things V-Strom not limited to just one of the above models

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  #741  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:55 PM
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You can do that. You could even do 20W-50. The second number of 40 or 50 is fine for over 40C. A first number of 20 is good down to -10C. The only thing to avoid is a second number under 40. 10W-30 is only good up to 30C.
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  #742  
Old 11-12-2012, 07:16 PM
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Default oil

Thanks Greywolf, I was surprised, even though its a very new bike I have had the occasional "clunk" changing down. And a few false neutrals, maybe me just getting used to it, and new boots.
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  #743  
Old 12-03-2012, 09:22 AM
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Default Going back to dino oil

At $20/gallon, I always figured synthetic, e.g. Rotella T6, changed every 3k, was cheap insurance. Went to the Wally-world in Guatemala City and they do not carry Rotella. Only JASO MA oils they had were a Castrol dino and Mobil 1. Mobil 1 goes for $20 per quart. This is not a typo. $73 for a gallon jug. I just became a big fan of dino -- the Castrol goes for a mere $7.50 per quart. Tried to bring a couple gallons of Rotella with me when I relocated, but that did not work out well. Was able to take a couple filters, which is good as I have not been able to find any locally.
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  #744  
Old 12-03-2012, 06:13 PM
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Default Found one that works great for me

I've run Motul full synthetics, Castrol Sem-synthetics and a slew of other dyno oils but none has ever performed as well as the Maxima Premium 4 dyno I recently put in my '11 Wee with 14k miles. The shifting is butter smooth and the bike sounds smoother as well (perhaps a psychological side-effect, but the smoother shifting I am certain of!) Just my two cents I thought that I would contribute to this growing list of oil anecdotes
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  #745  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:06 PM
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howdy folks,

currently using Rotella 15W-40, non-synthetic. $19.95/gallon(US dollars)

zero problems using this oil in four previous bikes.

change oil and filter at same time, usually around 1.5k-2.5k miles.

i like to rip the filter apart and see what has been captured.

it is usually non-metallic. clutch facings; wear items. some aluminum, very little ferrous.

when i can pick up the particulates with a magnet, i become concerned.

i have yet to be concerned using rotella.

caveat to my post, i do not do miles like others. 3-8k per year, dependant upon weather and work requirements.

as always, ymmv
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  #746  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:58 PM
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I'll admit, I didn't read this entire thread. However, if you REALLY want to know if one oil is "better" than another, it's as simple as doing serial Used Oil Analysis, and having an actual Tribologist interpret the results. Don't trust the clerk that spits out a cheap interpretation, that costs you nothing over the 20.00 or so it takes to have the UOA done...you get what you pay for...nothing of good value. I've read so many clerk comments that shows they simply don't have a clue what they are talking about, you don't know if you got a good clerk or not, unless you know how to do the interpretations.

Here's one common example: a clerk said a particular oil acted like a 10w-40 instead of a 0w-40, but, there was no cold pour point test done. If you do not see the nonsense in that statement, do yourself a favor and pay for a Tribologist interpretation.

This way, you can quit guessing, quit going by, "well, it feels better somehow", and you won't make statements like, "I get better mpg with new oil"...when the fact is: new oil is thicker than used (sheared) oil, unless it has oxidized to the point it begins to thicken...so, you don't get better mpg with new oil because the oil is somehow magically "more slippery" or whatever it is that is being imagined.

I just hate it when oil is treated like religion and/or politics. The FACT is, Tribology is a science that is very well understood by the experts, and we shouldn't have to go by "feelings" and "guesses"...unless, of course, you just don't really want to make the effort to know. And, that's fine...most bikes do just fine on oils that are close to the recommended viscosity, and aren't left in too long. For motorcycles, how long is "too long" is key. Most shared-sump, wet-clutch bikes that I've seen UOA's on are fairly hard on oil by means of shearing fairly quickly.

I've never had a VStrom until this week...so I know nothing about what it's characteristics are regarding oil life. Sorry for the long introduction to this oil thread, but, dag-nab-it, these threads don't have to be unscientific. We have the technology!
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  #747  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:38 AM
 
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I buy my oil in a 20 litre drum from Motul its 10-50. I buy it this way as it fits all 4 bikes.

Just did 5500 kms and changed the oil as the return trip was 4000 kms and I wanted to change it where it was easy (family garage not side of road.)

The oil out because it was only 600 kms per day looked the same as what went in. So from a lot of experience if you are not stop starting all the time but giving your oil and engine time to get up to temp and run for a while, your oil will last a lot longer than the service interval which is based on city running amd no removal of the nasties that form if you do a long run.

Also I change the oil filter every time I change oil not what the Suzuki manual says as I consider it cheap insurance.
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  #748  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:17 AM
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MY oil can beat up your oil
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  #749  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauriceoz View Post
Also I change the oil filter every time I change oil not what the Suzuki manual says as I consider it cheap insurance.
Well, Suzuki engineers may just know what they are talking about.

Insoluables, those particles that are actually "chunks" of contamination in your oil, plug up areas in the filter as it's doing it's job. The largest holes in a filter are eventually plugged up by the larger insoluable particles, which INCREASES THE EFFICIENCY OF THE FILTER OVER TIME. As long as your trans-filter pressure doesn't rise to the point of going into bypass (assuming the system has a filter bypass), your filter works better on the 1000th mile than it did during the first 999 miles, and so on.

I've run UOA's on many bikes and cars, and I've always had the Insoluable value stay the same, or even drop, for at least 3 filter runs. I have never tried 4 runs, as filters do "age", independently of their % load capacity.

I don't think it hurts to change an oil filter every oil change, but, it certainly isn't "cheap insurance", as it's not as good as leaving the filter in longer. In fact, changing filters every time is not only more expensive, it's less effective than leaving it in for at least a couple of OCI's. Caveats are: during a cleaning phase (where an agent such as Auto-RX, etc., is being used to actively remove gunk in the engine), or if there is some other reason to suspect unusual contamination, or if there has been a LONG interval (a couple of years) since it's been changed.

Filtration is another part of the science of Tribology....
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  #750  
Old 12-16-2012, 01:40 PM
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If they loved us there would be a secondary circuit with a micron filter
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