Rear axle thread galled - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 184 Old 05-15-2012, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichDesmond View Post
Combination of torque wrench use and Suzuki's too high torque spec are what cause these problems.
If you just do it by feel you'll be better off. The vast majority of stripped thread problems happen to guys with a torque wrench in their hands.
+ 1 , i use feel most of the time , i only use a torque wrench for important jobs like flywheel bolts or cylinder bolts and such , even then i won't tighten a bolt/screw to torque specs if it feels over tight.
I removed my rear axle on the weekend to replace the tyre for the first time , it took two of us to remove the nut , it undone about 1/2 a turn then locked , brute force and wd40 got it the rest of the way off. . I think i will be replacing the the locknut with a holeshot type from the local bolt shop .
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Learnt to ride on - Suzuki 80 -1969
[B]Bikes I have owned[/B] * CZ 175 * Yamaha DT250a * Honda CB450 * Kawa KL250 * Honda CB750F2 * Honda CR250m2 * Suzuki DR250 * Yamaha TX650a * Honda SL350 And Kawa KE175 * Honda CX500ec (Had it 16 Yrs, Wrecked by car turning in front of me) * BMW K100rs 1991
Grey 2011 Wee-current bike
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post #12 of 184 Old 05-22-2012, 09:44 PM
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Just happened to me too. Rear axle nut locked solid onto the bolt while it was still about four turns from being tight. It was never overtightened that day or any other. It's clear the problem is the bolt it too soft. I called Suzuki and they said they've never heard of this before and I told them Oh really? Yes that is right we've never heard about this before. I said Google V-Strom rear axle failure and you will read all about it.

I've been working on motorcycles for almost 40 years. I've been a professional heavy equipment tech for almost as long. 72.5 lb-ft of torque is the correct value for tightening the rear axle according to the factory manual (most full-size street bikes have a rear axle value between 65 and 73 lb-ft, so it's not unusual) and using a known calibrated torque wrench set to the correct value is the only safe way to tighten an axle, a cylinder head, handlebar pinch bolts, etc. The problem is bad parts in the system, nothing else.

It's pretty clear, Suzuki doesn't want to hear any bad news.
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post #13 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 09:58 AM
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I've got the same problem on my 2011. Have 5000 miles on it and went to tighten the chain but I can only turn the nut about 1/4 turn then it locks up solid. Called my dealer, as its still on warranty and they said they haven't heard of it before, but that I should bring it it. I didn't feel like trailering it 60 miles, as its mid winter here, so I bought the parts and thought I'd fix iit myself rather than make 2 trips- one to deliver it and then to pick it up. I put a 1/2 inch drive impact on it with no luck. Then even tried a 3/4 inch impact, and still no luck. Guess I will be taking it in to get them to screw around with it, rather than me spend time, that I don't have, on it. Just makes you wonder what kind of crap metal is holding me up from the pavement. Wonder how they keep getting away with it. if it was a GM, Dodge, etc. there would be recalls. But I guess its obviously not going to fall off or come loose. Wonder if half of these parts that the factories are using, aren't being sourced out of China, where anything goes, it seems???
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post #14 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 10:44 AM
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Stainless steel on stainless steel tends to gall. It's the nature of the material. Have the dealer apply anti seize and torque to 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect and the problem will not occur again. Yes, Suzuki should have figured this out by now and changed the procedure. There have been zero reports of problems after using the procedure.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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post #15 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 11:00 AM
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Thanks for this info. I'm going to take my 2012 rear axle nut off, put anti-seize on it, then snug it back down by hand. I do have torque wrenches, but, I've worked on Motorcycles for over 40 years, and I think I can tell when I've reached the correct German torque: Gutentite.

BOY, was that OEM torque tight. I had an 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive and had to really muscle it to get it to budge. It's now anti-seized and snugged up nicely. Glad I didn't wait to do this...

Last edited by Blackheart; 01-01-2013 at 07:04 PM. Reason: completed the task
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post #16 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 01:38 PM
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Thanks for this thread guys. The take away for me and my '11 Wee with 5k miles and due for a new rear shortly, is to buy a couple Holeshot bolts and washers when I put on the new tire and replace the oem ones preventatively...and maybe save myself the cost and aggravation of an axle bolt down the road. I'm usually of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school but this definitely sounds like a design error and something that will occur sooner or later. Worth the peace of mind.
I don't wrench enough to trust my torque wrench "feel", and not sure if it's accurate to a 10% tolerance, either.
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post #17 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 02:22 PM
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It's not a design error but a procedure error. Large SS fasteners need anti seize. Replacement won't help. Non SS will rust or be plated. Anti rust plating on the nut in contact with a SS axle can create dissimilar metals corrosion. SS on SS can gall. Just get some anti seize.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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post #18 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 05:32 PM
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Am I the only one who doesn't trust an un-locked axle nut? There are very few bolts on ANY of my bikes w/o a lock nut or lock washer, or on occasion, loctite. In the many times I've had my rear wheel off, and "torqued" the rear axle nut by feel, I've had 0 problems. The axle is still near perfect, with about 35k on the bike.
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post #19 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 05:59 PM
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The old nuts were castellated and locked with a cotter pin. The new ones are Fuji style with a sheet metal grabber. Most people will never have a galling problem. The potential is there though so I recommend not taking chances.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #20 of 184 Old 01-01-2013, 06:03 PM
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I also just noticed he's getting 12 dollars for a 1-2$ nut... Don't you guys have hardware stores around?
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