I have done 100s of oil filter changes on cars and at least 10s of oil filter changes on motorcycles, just never one on my new 2013 DL650.
I see that the filter is printed with "two full turns" after contact seating with the oil filter gasket. Suzuki 2013 OEM Service Manual states 14.5 Ft Lbs (Section OB-11) torque to seat the filter.
Two Full Turns seems like a lot ... "720 degrees".
Just wanted to ask the group their thoughts on the Full Two Turns vs Torque Spec in Service Manual vs Other methods?
Wife just bought me a new torque wrench for my birthday .....
you just want to use your new torque wrench.... :mrgreen:
I noticed the suzuki branded oil filter has a traditional round o-ring for a seal as opposed to the more common flat style... the round o-rings need a bit more "squishing" to get them to seal properly then square.. that is why it states 2 turns instead of a torque spec. I just did my second oil change and no problem cranking 2 turns on it with a oil wrench
I covered the filter in a rag so I would not scratch the paint off the filter to prevent rusting (not that it will be long enough between oil changes for a filter to rust through... but still.)
I'd use two turns on the Suzuki filter. The torque spec could be used on aftermarket filters that don't have the large cross section, soft O-ring but hand tight or 3/4-1 turn works on them. The torque spec will work on the Suzuki filter too. I wouldn't use hand tight on the Suzuki filter. Whatever you do, don't use two turns on an aftermarket filter. Make sure the old O-ring isn't stuck to the engine and oil the new O-ring before installation.
Yeah, what Greywolf said. I followed the owner's manual recommendation for two full turns when I put on an aftermarket filter. It took everything short of a C4 charge to get the filter off. If it's anything other than a Suzuki filter, I'm sticking with hand tight.
A torque spec is not about how far to compress the gasket, it is about how hard to twist the item. The turns-to-seat spec is directly about compressing the gasket. I'd always go with the turns-to-seat, including the 3/4 or 1 turn for an oiled flat rubber gasket if that's on the filter I'm using and the 2 turns for the OEM filter.
I covered the filter in a rag so I would not scratch the paint off the filter to prevent rusting (not that it will be long enough between oil changes for a filter to rust through...
Suzuki says the filter is good for 10,000 miles, three of their 3,333 mile oil drain intervals. I'm not concerned about the small amount of used oil that remains in the filter when the sump is drained. The filter on my 4.7 liter Toyota V-8 engine isn't much bigger, and I run that oil & filter 10k and have good oil analysis reports. You can change the filter as often as you like--your choice.
I have changed the oil/filter on my Wee since new two years ago and 22,000 miles later. I have always used Suzuki OEM filters with synthetic oil. I replace
the oil filter as recommended - hand tighten and then two revolutions. I have never run into trouble - no leaks ever, and filter always comes off with no fuss. I like synthetic oil and change the filter every oil change. I know it is not necessary, but it is my way of pampering my Wee ( or wasting $ who knows:thumbup:!).
I have changed the oil/filter on my Wee since new two years ago and 22,000 miles later. I have always used Suzuki OEM filters with synthetic oil. I replace
the oil filter as recommended - hand tighten and then two revolutions. I have never run into trouble - no leaks ever, and filter always comes off with no fuss. I like synthetic oil and change the filter every oil change. I know it is not necessary, but it is my way of pampering my Wee ( or wasting $ who knows:thumbup:!).
I marked the Suzi filter then put the torque wrench on. It turned almost exactly two turns until the wrench clicked with the proper torque. Either way seems to be ok and to spec. ...........Try it since you already have a torque wrench. I bought a filter wrench that fit from Advanced Auto for $2.50. It fits the HiFlo HF138 aftermarket filters(identical to Suzi filters) also. They torque down with the same torque values.........Mike
I went 1.75 turns on this last one I just put on. I think thats what I used previously with the same brand filter. It was on pretty tight. Maybe I'll loosen it up to 1.5 turns and see if it won't leak.
With 250,000 km on two Stroms I have alwasy used the factory filters and always followed the recommended two-turns method. When I got the tool for tightening the oil-filter I put a mark on it and use that as my two turns reference.
Much more scientific than the torque method as the two turns guarantees the O-ring is compressed properly.
..Tom
btw I have been in the automobile industry for 31 years. Failed filters are rare; but the few times I have come across them they have always been aftermarket filters.
LOL, there sure are instructions. Mine said to follow the vehicle manufacturer's instructions for installation. The DL650 owner's manual says to use a Suzuki OEM filter or equivalent, and to tighten to two full turns past the point that the gasket first makes contact with the mounting surface. I don't have a torque wrench, so I went with the "two full turns" instructions. Which resulted in my aforementioned "almost resorted to high explosives" method of getting the old filter off. I actually crushed the filter housing trying to get it off.
Lesson 1: Unless it's an OEM filter, don't do the two full turns thing.
Lesson 2: Even simple things aren't always simple.
Joints using very high strength fasteners sometimes use what's called a "torque-turn" process. It has 2 steps. First you torque to a fairly low level (with a torque wrench) to take all the slack out of the joint. Second, you turn the bolt a specific number of turns to stretch the bolt to a uniform, high level. This produces consistency, allowing you to get closer to the bolt's max strength. Suzuki's filter instructions are a variation on this, also producing a consistent clamping force. Simple and elegant. Nice.
The Purolator ML16818 filter has a round cross section O-ring but it is a harder material and smaller in diameter. It takes the same treatment as flat gasket filters, not 2 turns. Follow the filter manufacturer's instructions.
I stand corrected. I just looked at my spare filter. The instructions on the box say to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but the filter itself says something different.
Lesson 3: Don't assume the instructions on the box are the final word!
I used the K&N filter (because it has a nut welded to the bottom for easy removal!).
I hand tightened it almost as far as it would go - probably around 1.5-2 turns and the garage floor test after several weeks indicates that was tight enough. :thumbup:
Taking off the original Suzuki one (12k miles) convinced me never to fit one of those again. Probably the original one given how tight it was to remove.
The OEM filter is the only one that takes two turns. If anything, you've already over tightened the filter. Where did you get that 14.5 torque figure from? I saw no torque spec for the filter in the manual. Also, you wrote nm/lbs a couple of times. There is no such unit. Nm is a metric torque unit encompassing force in Newtons multiplied by the lever distance in meters. The English torque unit would be ft-lbs or in-lbs using pound force times a foot or inch lever distance.
There is a torque spec for the drain bolt and it is 21Nm or 15lb-ft, sometimes written as 15 ft-lb. Nm/lbs or Newton-meters/pounds doesn't make sense.
I thought I saw somebody cite a torque spec for the filter in a different post the other day, so when I saw it happen again, I looked in the owner's manual today. That's where it is. 20 N·m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 lbf-ft)
Weird that the owner's manual would give a torque spec but the service manual doesn't.
if its not leaking and there is no skid plate in the way, i would maybe reach down there and twist it a little more to get to two full turns or the torque wrench click.
if its not leaking and there is a skid plate in the way, i would get the beer and for the next 3000 miles obsess over any little noise or gurgle as related to this issue.
I wish the torque spec was not in the owner's manual. It's not a good idea to do a torque spec for an oil filter as the friction on an oiled gasket is not reliably uniform. Don't use the specs in either manual for anything but an OEM filter. It has a different gasket from all other filters. Hand tight or one turn after contact would be your best bet for a Hi-Flo filter.
Leave the filter alone. It won't be any harder or easier to move when it's time to change it so it's okay until then.
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