OEM Heated Grip Installation – My Experience

[TomX]

(Caution, the words below may be the mad ravings of a lunatic)

With the full knowledge that the subject has been beaten to death, I’d like to add to the vast and often repetitive reservoir of information concerning the installation of heated grips with the hope that my experience, which differed slightly from others, may be helpful to those in the same situation and thus may advance the collective wisdom of our species…

To put is simply: on my 2006 650, the little black plastic connector which you need to access to plug in the wiring harness supplied with the heated grips could only be gotten to ‘from above’ by removing the gas tank and the air filter.

It was taped tightly and securely to the wiring harness, with no ‘slack’, right in the middle of the bike and despite the fact I’ve always considered myself fairly adept at such mechanical things, no amount of reaching, tugging, pushing or pulling with hands, pliers, screwdrivers, probing with X-Acto blades and various other tools and instruments could nudge it enough one way or another to enable me to make the connection even after I’d removed the cowling on both sides of the bike.

After two frustrating hours of struggling with it I gave up. Then, in a burst of inspiration, I removed the gas tank and air filter, and there, right before my eyes, was that little illusive devil, available, touchable, ready and waiting to power up my grips.

Just my experience – your mileage may vary.

- Tom

[Mr. Fisherman]

Been there, still have the sore fingers to prove it :-D .
The heated grips sure are nce though... Have you had the chance to try them out yet?

[BigT]

When you combine the fact that the OEM grips cost nearly $180.00 (Here in Cali.) with this new tidbit of the wire/connector being a bitch to get at, you'd almost think they were trying to talk you out of installing them.:mrgreen:

-T

[farmerjoe]

the epiphany for me was realizing that the rad tilted forward on a pivot. It made all the difference (thanks to a few folks on this board!) As does everyone, once I got to it I made sure to relocate the connection to a more convenient spot.

[aircav]

Mine came when I was able unplug the connector to which taped bundle of wire was connected.

[Bimjo]

I wimped and had the dealer install mine at time of bike purchase as part of the deal. :)

[TomX]

Have you had the chance to try them out yet?

Hah, in my dreams! I installed the grips last night. When I got up this morning, it was 5 degrees out.

But tomorrow will be a different story - the temp is supposed to soar up into the mid thirties and I'll give them a try for sure.

- Tom
Freezing in Central PA

[pplummer]

Can you even feel your hands at 5 degrees at 50MPH? :)

[hbonser]

Question for you guys that are in the know.

My DL1K3 came with heated grips, aftermarket units. They work fine. They are wired back to the fuse box and a trailier wire tap was used to provide power. Can't tell which wire was tapped, but it is probably the tail light, signals or similar.


The gorund was simply hooked on up front under a bolt.

What is the danger if any of grounding to the frame with aluminum and steel involved in providing the ground? I.E. electrolytic issues. I have heard that all the ground wires on the Strom go right to the battery for that reason.

Should I run the ground back to the battery and be done with it, or is it fine as-is?

Also, I am putting heated grips on my other bike (B12) and wonder if there is a wire of preference to tap into? I.E. tail light, turn signals, etc.

Any ideas or thoughts are helpful.

Howard.

[Mr. Fisherman]

You do NOT want to ground anything to a Suzuki Vstrom frame.
ALL grounds should lead back to the battery negative post, either directly or via a terminal block or distribution panel. Oh, and it should be properly fused...
Using a lead from a tail light or the like insures that the power is switched from a relay so that when the bike is turned off the load dosen't drain the battery. Care should be taken to insure the amount of power used doesn't overtax the conductor supplying it. Installing a distribution panel allows you to add future loads easily. Running the panel via a relay insures no loads are left on to drain the battery once the bike is turned off. It also allows you to easily fuse the loads appropriately.
I hope this helps...

[KennyLSU1]

You do NOT want to ground anything to a Suzuki Vstrom frame.
ALL grounds should lead back to the battery negative post, either directly or via a terminal block or distribution panel.

I just got a 1000 and was getting ready to hook up the radar detector, GPS, heated vest, and assorted junk. Why shouldn't you use the frame as a ground on the Strom?

[Heavy]

Bad mojo to ground to frame. Search for "gound" "corrosion" etc. Its been discussed in depth.

[hbonser]

Many thanks for the input.

OK, here's what I have heard, read, etc... By tapping into a fused wire for the tail light or turn signal, the Kimpex grip heaters are unlikely to damage anything since the draw on the heaters is well under 10 amps (around 2 amps is what I hear, not something I have a clue on otherwise) and the fuses are 10 or 15 amps.

Is there something I am missing here, as many sets of grips and grip heaters have been done by tapping a wire according to the dealer I bought the bike from.

Kick me if I am so far off base as to sound stupid! I don't want to cause any damage, but if it works and the only risk I run is popping a turn signal fuse then that isn't so terrible.

I will run a separate ground back to the battery. Thanks for the help clarifying that.

Howard.

[squash]

I just wanted to chime in basedc on the initial post.. I just did my heated grips on an 07 dl650 and removing the tank and airbox would have been a huge waste of time. Look right behind the radiator, right by the bracket for the horn.

[hbonser]

Stupid question, but since the hot wire is already tapped in back by the fuse box, by the previous owner of my Vee, can I pick up a ground up front off the horn so I don't need to run a wire back to the battery?

Thanks in advance.

[greywolf]

That's good since the horn isn't a constantly on. Just check the wire guage to make sure it will handle the load. The ground wires are black with a white stripe. Don't use the frame for a ground.

[hbonser]

Many thanks on the help. Yeah, the previous owner had it grounded up front under the metal cable guide the control cables/wires from the right side run through, and I can see the start of corrosion setting in. I unhooked it already and now will get it done right.

Thanks.