Learn from the Master... (The Spacer Thread)

[MonkeyGrass]

MasterMike, that is!! :mrgreen:

Ok folks, I'm here to tell you, in my best "preachin to the congregation" voice - that MasterMike's Spacer Kit is, BAR NONE - the single most important change I have made to my bike.

First off - here's where I was @ 27,000 miles:
Rear Sprocket Carrier had at least 3/8" free play. Side to side, up & down, it wobbled every which way you tried. Didn't even have to push hard.
The sprockets (front & back) were chewed. Shredded and worn on opposite sides on the front and back, obvious wear and not of a normal variety.
I will post pics when I get back home, but my carrier bearing was not even intact. It literally FELL OUT of the hub when I removed the rear wheel from the axle. I found 5 actual bearings, and remnants of 2 others that looked like they had been squashed under a truck. Seriously - wait until I post the pics!
Gear shifting was not so good. Going from N to 1st, I had to clamp down on the brakes to avoid lurching forward as soon as I engaged. KA-THUNK!
1st to 2nd wasn't horrible, but it wasn't fun. Every other gear was acceptable, but not a typical Zook "snick" that all the writers rave about with these gearboxes.
Getting on and off the throttle - lurch, buck, lurch, BUCK. I felt like a rodeo clown! :???: (this is both pre-and post 2ndary removal, BTW)These issues had been growing worse for weeks, and knowing I had replacements ordered, I basically rode the heck outta this thing to end the season.
This past week, I got down and dirty on it. New carrier bearing, dust seal, stiffer cush drive rubbers, front and rear sprockets and a Tourance rear tire. AND MASTER MIKE'S SPACER KIT. I emphasize that because I *almost* didn't order them. I, like many of you, thought that the whole 2mm misalignment thing was blown all out of proportion and surely, these are just parts that needed to be replaced after nearly 30k miles! After reading some more on the VSRI forum, I decided "in for a penny, in for a pound" and added $55 to my parts list total. Why not. Let's see what all the fuss is about.

Sure enough, once I got into the axle and carrier - there were the tell-tale signs: Worn cush drives, scuffs and wear inside the carrier where the friction was, and did I mention, the bearing was literally shredded?

So - sparing all the boring details of banging out wheel and carrier bearing races, and having loads of fun with 85 ft/lb of torque on the countershaft sprocket nut, I replaced everything. With a substantial amount of help from my Bandit 1200s riding buddy/mechanic. ;)

After re-assembly, before I even rode the bike, I knew MasterMike was on to something. The sprocket carrier was fitting snugly INSIDE the wheel/rubber area, and no matter how hard I tried, I could not wiggle it one bit! The sprocket teeth are now lined up in the chain rollers, not squeezed against the inside of the inner plates. Everything looks and feels tight and aligned. Took me less than 5 min to adjust my chain (not fighting a crooked sprocket helps a LOT!!).

Today I got to take it out for a 75 mile test run. YES I KNOW IT'S 45*! :cool: I had to do it, I've been waiting on this rear drive fix for 2 months.


WOW.

Let me repeat - WOW!!! :mrgreen:

Without overstating the case - this feels like a new machine. Here's how the bike rides now:
Engaging first gear? No problem. No CLONK! No lurching forward, nothing. Just dink! and right into 1st.
1st to 2nd now feels like my brother's SV650. *snick* right into gear, no extra effort or prayers to the tranny gods required for a clean shift.
Throttle transitions are now transparent. Chain lash is gone - I can roll on, off, on, off and other than normal compression braking, no more lurching and heaving around like before.
Smooth smooth smooth. Everything about this bike is like liquid bearings now. It really does feel just like my brother's SV! Well, with 35 more HP, LOL.And the biggest change? One that I wasn't even expecting?

NO MORE CHUDDER. I can't believe it. It's just.... gone. There is the *slightest* rumble as I pass from 3200-3500, mostly in the plastic fairing. No more vibes, or any of the unpleasant feelings and sounds of the infamous chudder. This is an original K2 that has never had the clutch replaced. And it had a BAD chudder before. As a matter of fact, clutch basket replacement was next on my list. Scratch that!! No need. It's my belief, that the sprocket misalignment, and resulting wear on the carrier bearing and cush drive rubbers, AMPLIFY what is a naturally weird harmonic of this engine/drivetrain. By itself, really not so bad. You would probably never notice it. Slowly it gets worse, over a few thousand miles and eventually you add to it, a failing carrier bearing, misaligned and loose sprocket carrier, and a minor harmonic overtone has now become a very unpleasant and distracting racket/vibration. Presto - you now have the dreaded CHUDDER.

Guys, I know this sounds insane. For those of you that are reading this and thinking "but my bike doesn't do any of that stuff" - check your Odometer. This tends to show up after about 20-25k miles. If you have less than that, you probably DON'T have any of the symptoms.... yet. I think it's totally possible to prevent wear and tear, save a bunch of money on replacement bearings, sprockets, and rubbers, by installing these spacers NOW. It definitely makes a difference. I test fitted with the original spacers before putting in MasterMike's. The carrier did not fit as snugly into the rear wheel with the stock spacers. And considering that carrier, and it's bearing, are taking 100% of the brunt of this powerful V-twin engine, I think it's safe to say - the tighter it fits in there, THE BETTER!!

I took the bike in 3rd and 4th gears, down to 2000 rpms and then brought it back up again - both fast and slow. I cannot believe the difference. Smooth power from 2000 -> redline. UNREAL. A slight rattle somewhere in the plastic up front around 3200. That's all that remains of the chudder.

Try the spacer kit. It's not a placebo, it's the REAL DEAL. It makes this bike run better than new, and riders with 5, 10, even 20,000 miles since installing the kit have experienced virtually none of this abnormal carrier bearing/cush rubber wear and tear. Stromette's mechanic independently came to the EXACT SAME CONCLUSION - on a different continent, no less. He machined off 2mm from her inner spacer and added a 2mm washer to the outer, in order to achieve the same result. If you put real miles on this bike, you will eventually have these problems, IMO.

I know it sounds crazy. Who knew 2mm could make SUCH a difference? I was expecting maybe a smoother 1st - 2nd transition, maybe less bucking and heaving on throttle transitions. Never in a hundred years did I expect the chudder to disappear and the entire drivetrain to run smooth as butter.

TRY IT. YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT, I promise!!!!

P.S. - Now I need to change my sign line! Something like - I pledge allegiance to MasterMike, for he has transformed the V from a chuddering, lurching wildebeast, into a smooth, refined dance parter. 2mm makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE! All hail the V. Ooraah!!

[MightyShep]

Amen Brother! I got a set of Mikes spacers at the beginning of Nov. with virtually the same results. I've got an 06 and the sealed carrier bearing survived, but the shifting changed significantly. I'm glad someone else posted rave reviews. We There Yet ordered some and I didn't want him mad at me if it didn't work. :mrgreen: Now there's two of us to blame! ;)

[VtSTROM-K5]

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After re-assembly, before I even rode the bike, I knew MasterMike was on to something. The sprocket carrier was fitting snugly INSIDE the wheel/rubber area, and no matter how hard I tried, I could not wiggle it one bit! The sprocket teeth are now lined up in the chain rollers. Everything looks and feels tight and aligned. Took me less than 5 min to adjust my chain (not fighting the crooked sprocket helps a LOT!!).

Today I got to take it out for a test run. YES I KNOW IT'S 45*! Had to do it, I've been waiting on this rear drive fix for 2 months :rolleyes:


MG , congrats on a successful maint./upgrade project . Waitin on the photos to see how bad it was .....


Snowed today! made the ride home from work kinda COOL @27deg. w/ 50mph travel speed ..

[Big B]

Hmmm.....I may need to rethink this a bit!!!;) Great write up!

[MightyShep]

Snowed today! made the ride home from work kinda COOL @27deg. w/ 50mph travel speed ..


Freakin' bad ass. Now there's a HARD CORE biker!

[barnburner180]

Monkeygrass...

How did you order from Master Mike? I know he is on the German V-strom forum but I have never seen any contact info about how to order these?

Thanks..
barnburner180

[WeThereYet]

Amen Brother! I got a set of Mikes spacers at the beginning of Nov. with virtually the same results. I've got an 06 and the sealed carrier bearing survived, but the shifting changed significantly. I'm glad someone else posted rave reviews. We There Yet ordered some and I didn't want him mad at me if it didn't work. :mrgreen: Now there's two of us to blame! ;)

Hey Mighty Shep,

Yes, I ordered them, not because I was convinced there was a problem, but because they were endorsed by an esteemed Red 06 1K brother. And because I and can't keep two nickels in my pocket when it comes to this bike, purchase was inevitable. Suuuure hope they work. I would never blame you if they don't. No pressure buddy! http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/lol8.gif

[jdpower]

I got a set of MM spacers for my K3. I like them a lot too. I put new rubber bushings in at the same time. For me it wasn't dark to daylight experience but feel all works better so a big thumbs up from me.

JDP

[MonkeyGrass]

Monkeygrass...

How did you order from Master Mike? I know he is on the German V-strom forum but I have never seen any contact info about how to order these?

Thanks..
barnburner180

Email the Master - masterspacers@gmail.com

Mike is a great guy to deal with. The quality of the spacers is unmatched - much nicer than an axle spacer ought to be, actually. And it's swiss!! ;)

I gotta go find my camera...

[mikevstrom]

MG,

I couldn't agree more. Jim Smith (at Ton-Up) in Phoenix changed my cush boots about a month ago. That improved chudder a bit, but not entirely.

Since then he's been sending the spacers to the machine shop for a 2mm trim. On reinstall Jim's using a 2mm washer on the other side. You're right . . . the drive train is noticably tighter. It becomes obvious that the sprocket had been wobbling under + and - torque. The results are much better than I'd expected (not to mention less side force on the carrier bearing.)

[MightyShep]

Hey Mighty Shep,

Yes, I ordered them, not because I was convinced there was a problem, but because they were endorsed by an esteemed Red 06 1K brother. And because I and can't keep two nickels in my pocket when it comes to this bike, purchase was inevitable. Suuuure hope they work. I would never blame you if they don't. No pressure buddy! http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/lol8.gif


Phew! Sure am glad that's cleared up. ;)

[darkjedip]

I was reading the vsri forums thread about installing the spacer, and there was talk of having to have a small bit machined off from one of the spacers in order to have it fit flush on the bearing. Did either of you guys have to do that?

[MonkeyGrass]

No. Actually the area to be machined is on the inside of the carrier hub. I had a microscopic weld there, nothing that looked like it would interfere. I tested the wheel by spinning it freely on the axle before I torqued everything back down and it it seemed fine. I'm planning on doing a 5 and 10,000 mile checkup on the whole assembly to see how everything wears with miles on the drivetrain.

[darkjedip]

monkey, do you know if mike has them in stock? I just ordered a set. How long did it take for you to get them?

The reason i ask is that his email said he would send it out after payment, but later said that he would put me on the "preorder" list...

[Criscokid]

Great write up MG!:D
Just a little over 10,000 miles on my '05 and it has always shifted hard from 1st to 2nd. I think I'll install a set of these :mrgreen: . Thanks again for the great write up!
-Criscokid

[MightyShep]

monkey, do you know if mike has them in stock? I just ordered a set. How long did it take for you to get them?

The reason i ask is that his email said he would send it out after payment, but later said that he would put me on the "preorder" list...


Mike makes the spacers in lots of 60. As soom as those are sold he makes a new batch. He is real good at responding to email traffic and shipping was fast. He sent mine from Switzerland on a Monday and I had them in California by Friday.

My experience was favorable.

[Heavy]

I have a set enroute from the latest batch. I was on the wait list for about 2 weeks before Mike emailed me to say they were being shipped.

[WeThereYet]

I have a set enroute from the latest batch. I was on the wait list for about 2 weeks before Mike emailed me to say they were being shipped.

Likewise here, Heavy. Same batch I guess.

[MonkeyGrass]

monkey, do you know if mike has them in stock? I just ordered a set. How long did it take for you to get them?

The reason i ask is that his email said he would send it out after payment, but later said that he would put me on the "preorder" list...

I got the very last of the previous batch, I think. The ones I got were the last ones to have the MasterMike "laser-mark" engraved on them. He's getting so much demand he doesn't have time to engrave them like he used to.

From order to arrival, was probably 2 1/2 weeks. He was waiting on more of his padded shipping boxes when I placed my order, so even thoough he had the spacers, he had to wait about 6 days before his boxes arrived. Then 8 days on the air shipping to NC.

[handyhiker]

I'm not really sure I understand all this. If I look at the way my chain fits on the rear sprocket, I should see that it is off to one side more than the other??
I will watch my chain and sprocket wear closely. I have put new sprochets on already at about 500 miles. Went 16/43 instead of stock 17/41. If I would have seen this before I changed the sprockets, I would have measured the offset in the rear sprocket to see if it was the same. While my bike is new and the shifting is smooth, I do hear that harmonics in the front fairing at times. I keep looking for something loose.

[mikevstrom]

Handy,
The real issue isn't sprocket wear . . . it's carrier bearing disintegration and the danger of the rear sprocket wobbling (leading to sloppy engagement with shift changes--up or down.) Sorry situation that Suzuki doesn't care enough to make this simple recall on their own.
Regards,
Mike

[WeThereYet]

Installed the MM spacers today. Install was a snap. I must admit they do make a noticeable difference in the bike. The most apparent difference was the smoother gear engagement and slicker shifts. It may have felt a little smoother at cruise speed as well, but it was hard to tell as I never really felt the bike had an issue in that area, still being a low miler.

I was a little skeptical about this whole topic, but it seemed to be an effective mod for a whole lot of you, and once it got the Mighty Shep seal of approval for a Red 06, it was a no brainer. So far so good. The improved shifting alone, and the possibility of extending the life of the rubbers make this a worthwhile effort for relateively little money. Thumbs up.

[Mortaine]

I think its the Placebo effect you have spent the money so surely it had to make some kind of improvement. I cannot understand why people continue to purchase these WPoS motorcycles with all the problems implied I would think all of you would sell the PoS and buy a Honda, Yamaha, BMW, Ducati anything but a Suzuki.

[WeThereYet]

I think its the Placebo effect you have spent the money so surely it had to make some kind of improvement. I cannot understand why people continue to purchase these WPoS motorcycles with all the problems implied I would think all of you would sell the PoS and buy a Honda, Yamaha, BMW, Ducati anything but a Suzuki.

I hear you on this one Mortaine. I went into this excercise with eyes wide open because I was convinced that a 2mm sprocket offset over a 650 mm chain run should make no difference at all. And I still believe that. I am keenly aware of the placebo effect. This was a cheap enough mod that I was willing to take a flyer on it.

In reassembling the whole affair, it became apparent that the spacers moved the sprocket carrier 2mm further into the wheel hub. And in doing so it looked like it actually put a greater squeeze on the cush rubbers that are in there. If that is the case, it would likely just further tighten up what is already there, and thus give a more solid feel, in the interim anyway.

I still don't feel the 2mm alleged offset is the actual issue here, just slop in the hub/ rubber / carrier assembly, which this mod may help. The spacers tighten some of that up. My .02 for what it's worth.

But I have to call it as I see it. I got on the bike and stuck it into gear, actually expecting no change at all. This is because I never had an issue with the way it was before, being almost new. It was a much smoother drop into first, which makes no sense to me as the gears in the tranny case have dick all to do with the rear sprocket. Tried it several more times with the same result. I can only conclude that the tighter rear assembly smooths out the shift procedure. I did a 50 km ride through the area, from twisties, through town and onto the slab. Every shift was smoother, with more of a "snick" into gear as opposed to the clunk I would get before. Same reason I guess. Tighter rear hub assembly. I am not quite sure if it this mod made any difference on the highway or not. Too early to tell. But I am impressed at the change down low. What I am waiting to see is whether this is a permanent fix, or deteriorates over time.

Or, maybe it's all better because I just adjusted my chain? Hmmmm? :confused:

I would have admitted if there had been no change. In fact I would have gotten some satisfaction from it in this case, as I was a serious detractor on this topic from the get go.

Yeah, these bikes may be POS's, but they're hard to lay off. And for very little $$ you can make right what ails them. And I could certainly spend alot more and get another brand of bike that is just as much a POS. Very happy with what I have. It's my POS and I love it.

[darkjedip]

I would think all of you would sell the PoS and buy a Honda, Yamaha, BMW, Ducati anything but a Suzuki.

Too be fair, there is no such thing as a "perfect" bike. No bike I have ever read a forum on hasn't had some form of quirk or issue that the mfg could improve on. Most of the time, they listen and improve the product as it gets older. Unfortunately, this process tends to go to the bikes more sold (i.e. the bi-annual improvements of the 1000 & 650 cc sportbike class).

There were a couple of other guys in this thread who have recently installed the spacers. Have any more of you had to machine down the carrier hub thing? Or did you just put in the spacers?

[WeThereYet]

There were a couple of other guys in this thread who have recently installed the spacers. Have any more of you had to machine down the carrier hub thing? Or did you just put in the spacers?[/quote]

First I heard about that! Just dropped them in. Seemed to fit just fine.

[Mortaine]

WeThereYet
It does take almost all of the chain snatch out of the drive train. A chain tensioner on a dirt bike performed the same service with its solid hub mounting. Years ago we used to weld the sprocket hub to the wheel hub to eliminate this unwanted movement. The shifting was not any smoother but the bang effect and chain snatch was reduced from off throttle to on throttle. The trade off was poor chain life.

[MightyShep]

... I cannot understand why people continue to purchase these WPoS motorcycles with all the problems implied I would think all of you would sell the PoS and buy a Honda, Yamaha, BMW, Ducati anything but a Suzuki.

Why then, may i ask, do you own 2 of them? Seems kind of counter-intuitive.

Flame on Mortaine!

[Mortaine]

Well Shep I can see that my post was over your head I was being facetious
meaning I was joking. I do own two of them and neither have a running problem and both run very well from off idle to WO and both run very well below three thousand RPM'S.

[darkjedip]

I recieved my spacers from MM yesterday, so i'll be posting my thoughts soon. Nice craftsmanship. Was about 11 days wait, really fast!

[MonkeyGrass]

If it's a placebo, then it's one heck of a doozie, that's all I gotta say.

Same "placebo" effect for the 3 riding buddies who have driven the Strom before and after the spacers. Interesting, that - since they didn't spend a dime and it's not even their bike... ;) But they sure noticed a difference! :D

It's all about drive train slop. Chain/Sprocket aligment is not fixed, in some cases it's even more off-kilter, once the sprocket carrier sits 2mm more inboard on the axle. If I get a few thou less out of my chain or sprockets, I'll GLADLY take it for the improvement in shifting and drivetrain snatch.

My digital camera is broken, due to be replaced by Santa. As soon as I get it, I'll be posting the pics of my "placebo'd" carrier bearing, which looks like it got hit by an RPG. Very strange, this placebo effect... If I didn't know better, I'd *swear* there was really something WRONG with the whole sprocket carrier system... Hmmm... maybe me and the other 100+ Strom owners who have replaced the spacers (and the 4 mechanics and engineers on 3 different continents who have independently reached the same conclusion about the 2mm offset) are all sharing some sort of mass hallucination, in which our bikes shift smoother and behave much nicer at low RPM's, after fixing it?

Perhaps the world will never know... Thank god we have folks who are endlessly knowledgeable about mods that they've never performed. Where ever would we be without them?

[MightyShep]

I gotta say Heavy's right. That whole flame war about the right tool to use while doing a TBS was priceless. And now this seemingly uninteligible shot at Monkey Grass. I look forward to more of Mortaine's nonsensical postings, they make me laugh. It's like Don Quixote madly tilting windmills. Insane? Yes. Funny? You bet. Let's make him a pop icon. Question is...who will be Mortaine's Sancho Panza?? Heavy?? MonkeyGrass??



Long live Mortaine!!! Can't we all just get along??....Clearly no.

[MightyShep]

I can feel the love in this room! :mrgreen: Makes moe think of daisies, and puppies, and this girl I knew a long time ago.....er I digress :rolleyes:

[mikevstrom]

Mortaine,
Your're really Michio Suzuki reincarnated, aren't you?
Confession is good for the soul.
Regards,
Mike

[Heavy]

Don't go getting crazy, there's lots more that I can complain about, I just find the simple errors detract from your stance of authority.

You know, kind of like seeing a beautiful woman...with a little booger hanging out of one nostril. Although the flaw is small, its almost overwhelming.

If my spelling was perfect, that would leave nothing for you to bring to my attention.

[Mortaine]

Heavy
So your down to looking for boogers, what ever trips your trigger.

[Heavy]

I think you missed the point. Likely, intentionally.

[darkjedip]

Well, I hate to interrupt this blossoming flame war with a post on the subject, but here I go.

Today I got around to installing the new spacers. Firstly, let me say that I was trying to be objectionable. Originally, I read the VSRI threads regarding the spacers and decided that I must be an older model problem, not worth the cost, etc. etc.

But Monkey’s glowing review, along with Heavy’s input convinced me to give it a try. I suspected that Monkey’s dramatic results might have been because of advanced drive train wear and tear. But then I figured at the worst, it might save me some wear and tear on my final drive and prevent some added expense in replacement parts.

If you can remove the rear wheel, you can install the spacers. I tested the play in the sprocket carrier, and sure enough there was a lot of play. Installation was straightforward. I simply removed the stock spacers, greased up the new ones and put it all back together. After installing the spacer, the free play was eliminated. Bike only has ~1100 miles on it at this point, so there was no noticeable abnormal wear.

I get ready to ride me “proving loop”. This loop is a 60 mile round trip from my house that is rather nice to test new modifications and farkles. It has everything you could possibly think of: two lane back road twistys, in town riding, freeway, and a large hill climb and decent. So believe me, I put this through a lot of different conditions.

First impression: Disappointment. I clunked the bike into first, much like it always does. I immediately thought that the spacers were a farce. I clicked into neutral and put in first again. Same result. I shrugged and headed out.

As I began pulling though my parking lot, it seemed smoother in the low RPM range, but I dismissed this as a placebo effect.

Out on city streets, I approached the first stage of the loop: The back road twisty area. As I started to pull the bike harder, leaning and rolling on the throttle I began to notice that the bike didn’t seem to work as hard pulling out of turns. I dropped into 3rd and slowed to about 2000 RPM and did a roll on. The engine made the familiar pulsing noise, indicating harder work, but did not protest as usual. I repeated the test, but this time with my ear to the engine, confirming that the engine was not coughing, or gasping for gas, but instead was pulling smoother than ever. I was rather impressed.

Next I picked up some speed. As I worked into and out of the turns, I allowed some time to warm the engine up thoroughly before doing a 2nd gear red line roll on. “Well I’ll be darned.” I thought.

Previously I tried to keep the bike between 4 and 6 thousand RPMs, as that range was the engine’s sweet spot. Any lower would cause the bike to bog down and be slow to accelerate. Any higher and my bike would produce a vibration that was so violent, that my top case would shake as if there was an electric motor bouncing around in it. It was all gone! Nothing but smooth power from 3k to redline. I spent the remaining time in this stage repeating variations of these tests, amazed by the difference in the ride ability of the bike.

The next stage: In town, a lot of stop and go riding.

Again, pleasant surprises to be found. Starting in first was much easier. The engine no longer protested and sounded like it was going to stall. Smooth, smooth, smooth. Every start was pleasant and easy. And then I noticed that neutral to first was no longer clunky. Amazing. I started testing running a high RPM first to second, then second to first. These being the hardest shifts, I expected the normal results, but instead was greeted by the smoothest shifting ever. Running the bike to redline then shifting to 2nd was almost too easy.

The final leg as the freeway jaunt, followed by the hill climb. Again, positive results. 4th-6th gear roll-ons at higher speeds (50 mph+) were smooth and full of power. Again, very different than the bike I rode for the last 1100 miles.

Just FYI: I’m not sure that everyone will have the same amazing results. I have a later model K6, I am pretty sure that my ECM is a newer, less crappy version. But my bike is pretty much bone stock with a good TBS (which helped a lot). So your results may vary, but I definitely recommend master mike’s spacers!

Overall, this mod is amazing. I can’t say enough about how impressed I am. I really feel like sending the stock spacers back to Suzuki and demanding a refund.

Many thanks to Monkey for his write up, and master mike, who came up with this fix!

[paul_g]

My head is spinning! What was this thread about again? :-)

Happy holidays, all!

[paul_g]

Well, I hate to interrupt this blossoming flame war with a post on the subject, but here I go.

HAH! Dark Jedi got the thread back just as I posted! Bravo!

[paul_g]

Not having done this mod, and not riding a bike that has had it, I'm gonna chime in anyway! :-)

From an objective, engineering point of view, I CAN see how misalignment of the rear sprocket could cause some of the symptoms described, and described as fixed.

Under high chain load, the "top" of the sprocket is pulled forward with great force, and any "give" in the cush drive, combined with the 2mm offset, would force the sprocket away from staying perdendicular with the axle. This would cause high friction in the wheel bearings, sprocket teeth, cush drive, everywhere. High friction causes accelerated wear, which leads to more misalignment and more friction.

The only benefit described not explained by this effect would be the reduction in neutral-to-first shifting effort/noise/clunk, as there is no load on the chain then.

[larolco]

Okay. I've got a centre stand now, and the back wheel's in the air. What's to stop me?

Anyone?

Anyone?!

[MightyShep]

Okay. I've got a centre stand now, and the back wheel's in the air. What's to stop me?

Anyone?

Anyone?!


Go for it. You won't regret the change.

[PackMule]

I would like to know which of the 4 spacers are replaced and which one is increased and which decreased. Let's start from the left ( sproket side ) and go to the right. spacer #1, bearing #1, spacer #2,bearing #2, spacer #3, bearing #3 and spacer #4.
I'm sure having a new tight fitting cush drive and balls in the #1 bearing and new sprockets and chain would make the bike feel like new but the 2 mm shift in alignment I'm a bit of a doubting Thomas on.

Rich

[MightyShep]

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0331/rear_wheel/rear_wheel.bmp

Parts number 8 & 9 are modified.

[Heavy]

Come on Shep....tell him which is +2mm and which is -2mm.

[PackMule]

Thanks Mightyshep ! Those are the two spacers I thought would be modified.
2mm off the face of spacer #8 that presses against the inner race of bearing # 16 and plus 2mm on the spacer #9. This would let the cush bushings be pressed into the wheel hub tighter and move the sprocket 2 mm to the right.
Does anybody know how the measurement of 2mm was measured? Doesn't look like a very easy measurement to make accurately.

Rich

[MightyShep]

Here's a thread from the VSRI forum that covered this in detail including Master Mike's investigation of the issue and his solution.

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=101176542802&search=cush%2Cdrive

I hope that this helps you get a handle on the whole thing. I too thought that 2mm was an insignificant difference but have since been proven wrong. I installed the spacers with the same results as those others posted here.

[805gregg]

I e-mailed this guy twice, no response, is he for real?

[MightyShep]

I e-mailed this guy twice, no response, is he for real?


That's wierd that he didn't respond. I had real fast communication with Mike, and received my spacer in about a week. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Try him again.

Fred Glanzmann [masterspacers@gmail.com]

[MonkeyGrass]

I'm sure he'll get back to you soon. If I happen to catch him online, I'll ask him if he got your emails.

Really all you need to do is Paypal the money to that email address.

[PackMule]

Here's a thread from the VSRI forum that covered this in detail including Master Mike's investigation of the issue and his solution.

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=101176542802&search=cush%2Cdrive

I hope that this helps you get a handle on the whole thing. I too thought that 2mm was an insignificant difference but have since been proven wrong. I installed the spacers with the same results as those others posted here.

Thanks for the link. It appears that the 2mm measurement is taken from the from the wheel hub to the sprocket hub and has nothing to do with the front sproket. Master Mike was just removing the slop between the sprocket hub and the cush drive which in turn takes some of the lateral loading off of the carrier bearing. Atleast that's the way I see it.

Rich

[oleblu72]

Yea Mike must get busy or something took a few days between e-mails but he got back to me. Its winter time in Ohio right now not exactly prime bike riding weather I have a little time to kill or other things I can work on. Going to the Cycle World international bike show in Cleveland at the end of the Jan. i'll find something to buy up there. Mark

[MonkeyGrass]

Keep in mind - this is not a business for Master Mike. He makes no money off the sale of the spacers, just charging enough to cover the materials, shipping, and the time he has to rent on the machine to turn the spacers... He does it as a priceless contribution to the V-Strom community. His labor is essentially free, and when *real* work (or family, health, etc...) gets busy - he can't always respond like a full-time business would.

He'll get back to you. It took a week or so for him to reply to my initial inquiry. I didn't reply right away (unsure if I was going to actually do it - DUH on me) and he sent 3 more emails over the next month asking if I still wanted a pair of spacers.

He's a real class act. He could charge easily twice what he does and make some money. We've actually encouraged him to do this, since he spends so much time machining the parts. He refuses to raise his prices, and I applaud him for it.

[Yad]

I e-mailed this guy twice, no response, is he for real?

Yep, he's there, I just placed an order: $55 via paypal to

masterspacers@gmail.com

Includes shipping to US. More than fair, thanks Mike!!

[kmmoran]

MMike is still there - I got an email from him right after I placed my order (last week? 2 weeks ago?). Anyway, he emailed me back that he was having to work out of town for a couple weeks, and it would delay his spacer production/shipping. I can wait, I hate riding in snow.

[Vordak]

I'm going to order these. I'll post a review once installed and I've had time to test drive. Won't happen for a while though, damn snow.

V.

[barnburner180]

Well, I just "placed" my order for mastermikes spacers. I am going to change them out when it gets a bit warmer here, but looking forward to seeing the difference. I plan on taking a lot of pics when I do it so hopefully, I can post them for everyone.

[larolco]

Looking forward to the pics, barnburner180. It's on my to-do list.

[barnburner180]

Mastermike finally got back with me and told me he had to up the price to $55.00 dollars for a set. Hopefully, I will have them in the next week or so.

[larolco]

Mastermike finally got back with me and told me he had to up the price to $55.00 dollars for a set. Hopefully, I will have them in the next week or so.
Damn, I'll have to go into hock now.

[BumbleBee]

ordered mine too, thought I'd change them out with the 43tooth sprocket.

Man! winter sure can be exspensive! Could someone please tell me where the farkleaholics awarness meeting is being held?

[MonkeyGrass]

Errr.. my house.

My Sargent saddle just arrived. PLEASE SEND HELP! :D:D:D

[lsrxc]

Barnburner,
It took about a week and a half to get them from EU. Just for your information.

[oleblu72]

I still think it's a pretty decent deal, nicely machined stainless a new bearing seal and shipping all the way from over there. I wonder what the stock spacer's would cost. Mark

[morontaine]

Ok I know this is going to test some of you guys and make you think
WeThereYet
Yes I have tried the mod on my bike, I think 2mm is a little too much presently running a 1 mm shim set, the 2 mm offsets my chain more then I like.
Suzuki's set up is questionable I would like to see them use round pins and cushions they are more durable then the blade and block system presently used.
Heavy, he acts like one so I treat him like one.
MONKEYgrASS if I am on your ignore list PLEASE IGNORE ME you cannot carry on an intelligent conversation anyway without getting into name calling.
Come on Heavy reread it and think about it.
Shep if you are going to work on these things the least you can do is buy the correct tools.
WeThereYet keep using the oil your fuel pump and engine will love you for it. you would be amazed at what it will clean up.
If I missed anyone please advise
Heavy he chose the name I just choose to type it a little different LOL

STFU! And, stop copying me.

I have MM's spacer kit and it works well for me. The chain and sprockets are lasting longer now. A must do mod. The cush drive rubbers are taking less of a beating now too.

[MightyShep]

Oh my effin' god! Who is behind this? Pink Eye Village? that freaking hilarious!

[morontaine]

"the least you can do is buy the correct tools." Do you know what the correct tools are called and how to use them? Better get those adapters out.:roll:

This say's it all.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6822&page=4

[MonkeyGrass]

BWAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!

Oh my... The natives ARE getting restless, aren't they.

LOL I needed that. Thanks fellas!

[larolco]

Oh my effin' god! Who is behind this? Pink Eye Village? that freaking hilarious!
Well, I've got it narrowed down to someone who's got the spacers and can't punctuate properly.

Maybe we could play 20 questions.

[MightyShep]

...and can't punctuate properly.

Maybe we could play 20 questions.

That narrows it down to the entire internet community. :mrgreen:

[jackpiner57]

"the least you can do is buy the correct tools." Do you know what the correct tools are called and how to use them? Better get those adapters out.:roll:

This say's it all.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6822&page=4


http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i291/jackpiner57/applause.gif

[becman58]

hi all, not to interrupt the fun, but , how would you order from mike without paypal? i don`t have an account , usualy just call the place i`m ordering from and give them my credi card #? becman

[MightyShep]

Setting up a PayPal account takes about 5 minutes. Mike is not set up to take credit cards. He does this mainly as a service to the V-Strom community. The $55.00 covers materials, macine time, and shipping. He doesn't make (or want) a profit. Email him. Maybe he would accept a check, but since he lives in Switzerland that might not work.

[barnburner180]

hi all, not to interrupt the fun, but , how would you order from mike without paypal? i don`t have an account , usualy just call the place i`m ordering from and give them my credi card #? becman

Mike is in Switzerland so Paypal only... Here is his email address.

masterspacers@gmail.com

I am still waiting on mine. Hopefully, should be here anyday.

[larolco]

Mike is in Switzerland so Paypal only... Here is his email address.

masterspacers@gmail.com

I am still waiting on mine. Hopefully, should be here anyday.
Okay, I've officially ruled out barnburner180. He hasn't got his spacers yet. Seems proficient with the ellipses. Might try a colon, though.

Someone with more time than me needs to collate a list of people who have the spacers. Then we can narrow it down to the bad punctuators.

I'm on to you Morontaine....:mrgreen:

[Victrom]

Okay, I've officially ruled out barnburner180. He hasn't got his spacers yet. Seems proficient with the ellipses. Might try a colon, though.

Someone with more time than me needs to collate a list of people who have the spacers. Then we can narrow it down to the bad punctuators.

I'm on to you Morontaine....:mrgreen:

Is it just me or are you trying “to hard” to draw attention away from yourself. When you bend to far, to look under the table you’re only showing your ass.

PS. It's not an insult it's an advice.

[larolco]

Is it just me or are you trying “to hard” to draw attention away from yourself. When you bend to far, to look under the table you’re only showing your ass.

PS. It's not an insult it's an advice.
:confused:

[PackMule]

If this is any help, the original post by morontaine said it was from HEAVYVILLE not pink eye village !!!!

[Heavy]

Guess he moved.

[MightyShep]

Guess he moved.

Heavyville? I like it.

[Heavy]

Don't know if it had anything to do with me, but I claimed it for myself.

[Andy Chesley]

masterspacers@gmail.com

I tried this addy twice yesterday and it bounced back. I had originally contacted him at another addy and he gave me this one and said he is presently out of stock but plans to have some more made up by the end of the month.
I wanted to get on the list but may be that his mailbox is full at present. I did send him or whoever , a post this morning about the above addy bouncing the messages.

[MonkeyGrass]

Looks like MasterMike is getting a lot of orders for his spacers!

Being as his account is a Gmail account, he would have to have tens of thousands of emails to fill that inbox... Gmail has nearly 3 GB of storage!! I've been using it for 2 years, averaging 25-50 emails per day, I've never deleted anything, and I'm at less than 12% of my storage.

Make sure you didn't typo the address. masterspacers@gmail.com If I catch him on Gtalk I'll ask him what's up.

Oh, and if anybody wants a GMail account BTW - I've got a TON of invites. Just PM me and I'll send you one. Flat out - its the best email on the planet. :D

[becman58]

i received an e from mike yesterday. he said i was on his pre list and would be notified when the order is close to being done. i signed up for paypal,half an hour for me!! so i`m ready to send when he calls. becman

[MightyShep]

i received an e from mike yesterday. he said i was on his pre list and would be notified when the order is close to being done. i signed up for paypal,half an hour for me!! so i`m ready to send when he calls. becman
Congrats Becman. Sorry it took so long on paypal. You won't regret your spacer purchase.

[becman58]

it took so long `cause i can`t type fast and accurate.! i ahd to retype three times my password. becman

[DBuck12]

I just wrote Mike to request a spacer kit. Due to my physical limitations this 2003 DL1000 has less than 12,000 miles.

My particular V-Strom doesn't have ECM issues or clutch basket type vibration problems. It will pull smoothly from a little over 2,000 rpms in the lower gears as it always has. In hot weather the lean condition rears it's ugly head when rolling the throttle on at less than 4,000 rpm in 6th, but only above 75º F. In cool weather I can take it clear down to around 3,200 rpms in 6th with carefull throttle use, not that I make a practice of it. I have Scorpion cans but have never altered the fuel delivery in any way.

[barnburner180]

Wahoo, got my spacers today. Just have to find some time to install them.

[ncvulcanrider]

OK, I cut my inner 2mm and made a 2mm spacer for the exterior. now here is the question. Are we SURE that that 2mm cut on the spacer isn't moving the chain too far in? I was thinking that with the slack gone out of the hub, maybe I am pulling the chain to the right. I was thinking I might want to put the new spacer on the right side to set the whole wheel to the left to put the chain back in line where it was. I am sure this inner spacer is good, NO flexy and it is a free mod. MasterMikes spacers are great but since I can cut the stock and have a surface grinder seemed easier to mill what I had than to wait on him making some new parts, heck this is riding season.

Please let me know the collective wisdom about the new offset of the chain.

I went ahead and reassembled the bike with the 2mm spacer on the right side. The wife got home, it's cold and she wanted into the garage. I took it for a hot lap around the subdivision and it worked great. Still wondering what your thoughts are on where that 2mm spacer will do the most good

[PackMule]

NCvulcanrider
How many miles on your strom? Was there any side to side movement in the sproket yet? Did you replace the cush drive rubbers or the bearing?

Rich

[ncvulcanrider]

How many miles on your strom? 10,000 Was there any side to side movement in the sproket yet? LOTS Did you replace the cush drive rubbers or the bearing? NOPE, LEFT THEM IN

I was shocked at the shift into second and third. Klicks like a Jap bike should. I used to hear a Kerthunk like on my FXST. Going to borrow a laser alignment tool today to see where the chain should be.

[PackMule]

I have just over 16k on my strom and have some wiggle in the sprocket. I was planning on doing the same thing you have done. If I replace the bearing and cush drive I plan on putting the 2mm spacer next to the middle spacer that has been machined so I would have the original set up but as soon as I notice any play developing in the sprocket I'll move the spacer (2mm) to the left and push the sprocket hub into the cush drive and hopefully remove any play and not put to much lateral loading on the carrier bearing. I haven't taken the rear wheel off and checked things out yet so I may be inventing a problem that doesn't exist. ( over loading the bearing when new cush drive and 2mm are removed)
Putting the 2mm spacer on the right would move the wheel 2mm to the left and out of alignment with the front wheel. I don't know if this is enough to cause handling issues or not.
I did a little figuring on the how much misalignment of the sprockets would be caused if the rear axle were 1mm out of parallel with the counter shaft.It works out to be about 2.4 mm. How many chain drive bikes do you think are on the road with the rear axle 1mm out of parallel and are doing just fine???
I don't think 2mm of potential misalignment is anything to be concerned about but I'm not an engineer so this is just a humble opinion. :-D

Rich

[ncvulcanrider]

I think that what I will do is put my spacer back where it should be for wheel alignment reasons and put some washers behind the soon to be installed 43 tooth sprocket to line stuff back up

[MonkeyGrass]

Guys this doesn't affect the rear wheel at all... the only thing it moves is the sprocket carrier. Don't worry about mis-aligning the wheels, or anything like that. Is just seats the sprocket carrier deeper into the cush rubbers and tightens up the slop. My chain lines up great. Better than stock, actually. Right along the plastic chain guide on the swingarm. It's been to the shop and on their machines to have tires mounted and balanced (I'm talking Hendrick Motorsports Performance Suzuki here, not Joe Redneck's Choppers, Inc) with absolutely no issues. I've done several thousand miles since the spacer install and it's shifting like a dream (never did that before) and I'm seeing no unusual wear on my chain or sprockets. I did see very obvious horrible grinding of the sprockets in the stock configuration.

You know what I like the best? 1st -> 2nd? <snick> 2nd -> 3rd? <snick> and so on - I think you get the point.

Before the spacer kit, it was 1st -> 2nd (is it going to go? KER-THUNK! Ok I think I got it) 2nd -> 3rd <CLANK!> etc etc...

I really could care less if I get 5k less mileage out of my chain. This bike shifts like a dream (just like all the other Zook gearboxes everyone raves about) and that's well worth replacing a chain a couple thou early - IF that ends up being the case. I really don't think it will, but I'll let you know in a couple months!! :D

BTW - here's a pic so you can see what I'm talking about.. Notice the gap between the sprocket and the outside of the inner chain plates... There's the mis-alignment. Also notice how far OUT the sprocket is sticking from the rear hub. All the spacers do, is move the sprocket inboard 2mm so the chain rests on the outer side of the sprocket, instead of the inner side. That's why I keep saying this mod will NOT mess up your chain or wheel alignment... There is enough free play in the chain links to allow it to move 2mm inboard and not impact the chain. This mod is not about chain alignment. It's about seating the sprocket deeper in the the cush rubbers. That's ALL it does.

http://www.danlawlor.com/images/strom/Rear_Sprocket_Wear.jpg

[MonkeyGrass]

And here is the same shot of the rear sprocket, after the spacer install.

Notice how the sprocket is seated deeper into the hub, and the chain has a much less obvious gap between the outer chain plate and the outside of the sprocket. There's even still some room to go further in, if that was neccessary (it isn't). The chain is still on the inboard side of the sprocket, but not slammed against it.

Hopefully this will illustrate how this mod works, and clear up any confusion about chain alignment or rear wheel alignment. It simply doesn't affect that. Only the sprocket & carrier, and there is enough free play in the chain to allow this to happen without messing anything else up.

http://www.danlawlor.com/images/strom/spacer.jpg

[69junk]

How about all part #'s replaced. I have 33k on mine and just purchased it yesterday, will assume all this has not been done. I would love to do the whole job and would apreciate the part #'s to all that you replaced. Thanks

[TouringDude]

masterspacers@gmail.com

I tried this addy twice yesterday and it bounced back. I had originally contacted him at another addy and he gave me this one and said he is presently out of stock but plans to have some more made up by the end of the month.
I wanted to get on the list but may be that his mailbox is full at present. I did send him or whoever , a post this morning about the above addy bouncing the messages.


andy ... i've been corresponding with him for several days at that address. maybe there is a problem with your ISP?

the next spacer shipment is in april so i'd act fast if i were you. he's got my order.

BTW ... what part of cajun country? i went to high school in morgan city; college in new orleans/baton rouge.

-gary (crawfish-eatin' cajun expat now in california)

[MonkeyGrass]

How about all part #'s replaced. I have 33k on mine and just purchased it yesterday, will assume all this has not been done. I would love to do the whole job and would apreciate the part #'s to all that you replaced. Thanks

You'll need a rear axle bearing kit. Preferably sealed, you can get them from amotostuff.com. Easy to find. The spacer kit you need to get from MasterMike at his email address. The Master provides an OEM Suzuki dust seal that goes with the kit, so no need to buy one yourself.

Sprockets are plentiful and you have a bunch of choices. I *highly* recommend going to a 43t rear when you replace them. Makes a tremendous difference in the gearing and overall 'driveability' of the bike.

Cush rubbers and a carrier bearing are the only other things you need. I ordered them from BikeBandit.com and the part number for the cush rubber is:

2921953 ABSORBER,REAR H 2004 Suzuki DL1000 REAR WHEEL $6.21

You'll need 5 of those. I really do suggest getting the sealed axle bearings from another non-OEM source - you can also find the carrier bearing in a sealed variety if you do a little research. I don't have those numbers handy or I'd give them to you here. I know some others have done that, so maybe they can stop in a update the info. I really want to make this a sticky at some point, get all the part #'s and a How-To for this mod.

[Vinny]

Im seriously thinking about buying new wheels and sprocket and getting rid of the cush drive all together. I dont go off road so there is really no need for me to have it.

[TouringDude]

Im seriously thinking about buying new wheels and sprocket and getting rid of the cush drive all together. I dont go off road so there is really no need for me to have it.

vinny ... those dampers are not just for off-road. they cushion drive lash, which you will also appreciate on pavement. if you go with a solid mount you may not be pleased with the results.

[MonkeyGrass]

I believe most every bike made recently (last 10-15 yrs) has cush drive dampeners.. I'd be afraid to rip open the throttle on a 100+hp bike with no dampening whatsoever. OUCH! Talk about chain lash!

[Vinny]

My previous hayabusa and fz1 didnt have cush drives, what would be any different if I took it off the V?

[TouringDude]

My previous hayabusa and fz1 didnt have cush drives, what would be any different if I took it off the V?

just got back from www.bikebandit.com ... and the fiche function there clearly shows a cushion drive for the hayabusa. tried to reproduce below ... but the image in this window may be too small to show it.

don't know about the FZ1 but frankly would be surprised if it did not also have a damper.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1091&stc=1&d=1174515711

[MonkeyGrass]

This isn't a visible part on the bike, the cush drive dampeners are inside the rear wheel hub, where the sprocket carrier seats into the wheel. On the V-Strom, the carrier is a little too far "out" of the hub, and the result is that cush rubbers end up taking far too much lateral force, instead of just insulating the carrier from metal on metal contact with the rear wheel, they end up wiggling around in there, wearing out and causing the sprocket carrier to get very loose. The spacers tuck the carrier tighter back into the rear wheel assembly, so the cush rubbers do what they are supposed to do - cushion the drivetrain - NOT absorb the impact of the entire drivetrain every time you shift gears.

[Vinny]

Well regardless, My busa and fz1 didnt have one, I had those rear wheels and sprocket off many times and would certainly know if they had them.



Monkeygrass, are Mikes kits for the rear cush easy to install? How much are they? Im not having any issues with the cush yet but would like to solve the issue before it starts.

[BobbySands]

in point of fact, the dirt only machines and MX motos DON'T come with cush blocks, whereas the DRs and DRZ's that are street legal (the 'S' models) DO come with cush blocks. the reason? in the dirt, you don't have to worry about the shock and terror being transmitted through the bike because the tire should be in the dirt. With limited traction the sprocket can be bolted solidly to the hub and the dirt takes the hit or you break your tire loose. on a street machine the shock and terror will be transmitted to the bike because the tire should be sitting on pavement with a good deal of traction. all the shock (right up until the tire breaks loose) is taken by the bike.

[MonkeyGrass]

The spacers are super easy to install, and cost $55 shipped (including a new OEM dust seal). That may have gone up to $60, I'm not sure. If that's all you are doing, and on a new bike that all you need to do, simply take off the rear wheel, and replace the stock spacers with the modified ones. Shouldn't take more than 2 beers. Um, I mean an hour. ;)

[Inverted1]

The spacers are super easy to install, and cost $55 shipped (including a new OEM dust seal). That may have gone up to $60, I'm not sure. ;)

They are still $55. I got on the waiting list about a week ago. He said early April for the next batch.

[KennyLSU1]

Well regardless, My busa and fz1 didnt have one, I had those rear wheels and sprocket off many times and would certainly know if they had them.


Sorry, but wrong. The Hayabusa has 6 of them. Service book GSX1300R CHASSIS Page 6-40 item number 9 Cushion. Then again on page 6-43 there are 6 of them and it's called a Wheel Damper. I don't know of chain driven bike that doesn't have them...


Anyway, where can you buy this MASTER MIKE'S SPACER KIT?

[freewheeler]

in point of fact, the dirt only machines and MX motos DON'T come with cush blocks, whereas the DRs and DRZ's that are street legal (the 'S' models) DO come with cush blocks. the reason? in the dirt, you don't have to worry about the shock and terror being transmitted through the bike because the tire should be in the dirt. With limited traction the sprocket can be bolted solidly to the hub and the dirt takes the hit or you break your tire loose. on a street machine the shock and terror will be transmitted to the bike because the tire should be sitting on pavement with a good deal of traction. all the shock (right up until the tire breaks loose) is taken by the bike.


For the Record ... DR350 and DRZ400S doesn't not have cushion hubs ... they are the same as their off road counter parts

[freewheeler]

OK, I cut my inner 2mm and made a 2mm spacer for the exterior. now here is the question. Are we SURE that that 2mm cut on the spacer isn't moving the chain too far in? I was thinking that with the slack gone out of the hub, maybe I am pulling the chain to the right. I was thinking I might want to put the new spacer on the right side to set the whole wheel to the left to put the chain back in line where it was. I am sure this inner spacer is good, NO flexy and it is a free mod. MasterMikes spacers are great but since I can cut the stock and have a surface grinder seemed easier to mill what I had than to wait on him making some new parts, heck this is riding season.

Please let me know the collective wisdom about the new offset of the chain.

I went ahead and reassembled the bike with the 2mm spacer on the right side. The wife got home, it's cold and she wanted into the garage. I took it for a hot lap around the subdivision and it worked great. Still wondering what your thoughts are on where that 2mm spacer will do the most good


I did the same ... I tack welded the 2mm spacer to the swingarm side of the outer spacer ... It seems to work well ... at the same time I went to a 45 tooth rear sprocket and also installed a speedohealer ... -16.8 set the speedo perfect with my GPS ... The odo is running slow though ... with 44,000 on the clock ... I quess that is not a bad thing ... the gearing I choose sets top speed at 140 @ 8250RPM ... The bike is a whole different animal ... I liked it before ... Now I love it ...

[greywolf]

Shaft driven bikes have them too. My Yamaha XS11 had much more drive line slop than any chain drive bike I've ever owned an one reason was the rubber cush drive wasn't very tight. The CX500 and R90S had spring loaded mating ramp dampers. They were all steel with the springs providing the cushion.

The 'busa parts fiche lists ABSORBER, HUB SHOCK Part #64651-31001, quantity 6, under the rear sprocket drum. The FZ1 fiche says DAMPER part #5LV-25364-00-00, quantity 6. They are both rubber damped in a virtually identical manner to the V-Strom.

[Inverted1]

Anyway, where can you buy this MASTER MIKE'S SPACER KIT?

Email masterspacers@gmail.com to get on the waiting list. He said he would email when it is time to send payment.

[barnburner180]

Well, I finally found the time to install Mastermikes spacers today. I hadn't ever taken the tire off so I didn't know how long to expect for this, but I am pretty mechanically inclined as well too. Taking the rear tire off is a breeze, 10 minute job at the most. All I was working from was an exploded view of the rear assembly and it was really easy to see the spacers and where they go. Everything inside my wheel looked really good. No moisture whatsoever. I installed the new spacers and put the rear wheel back on, no problems. I was really anxious to take her for a test ride to see what happens, so I took it around the block. My initial response was that it was better but it really didn't provide the "WOW" factor that I thought I would see so I decided to take it out for a longer spin on the highway. It does shift nicer now and does have an overall smoother response shifting. I am happy with the spacers and the shifting is definitely better. I was going to take pictures along the way during the install but the job was so easy to do and I was done before I even knew it. Now I have to come up with something to do with the old Zuk spacers, any ideas? :confused:

[MightyShep]

... Now I have to come up with something to do with the old Zuk spacers, any ideas? :confused:

I heard they are good for inserting new bearings.

[freewheeler]

Well, I finally found the time to install Mastermikes spacers today. I hadn't ever taken the tire off so I didn't know how long to expect for this, but I am pretty mechanically inclined as well too. Taking the rear tire off is a breeze, 10 minute job at the most. All I was working from was an exploded view of the rear assembly and it was really easy to see the spacers and where they go. Everything inside my wheel looked really good. No moisture whatsoever. I installed the new spacers and put the rear wheel back on, no problems. I was really anxious to take her for a test ride to see what happens, so I took it around the block. My initial response was that it was better but it really didn't provide the "WOW" factor that I thought I would see so I decided to take it out for a longer spin on the highway. It does shift nicer now and does have an overall smoother response shifting. I am happy with the spacers and the shifting is definitely better. I was going to take pictures along the way during the install but the job was so easy to do and I was done before I even knew it. Now I have to come up with something to do with the old Zuk spacers, any ideas? :confused:


Modify them ... Or send them to a Machinest ... and past them on (to the less fortunate, etc ...)

[barnburner180]

I heard they are good for inserting new bearings.

That's probably not a bad idea there....

[freewheeler]

That's probably not a bad idea there....

I would recomend NOT using the bushing to install new bearings ... you want to press on the outside race as not to put a thrust load on the balls ... which is what would happen when using the bushing ... Knocking out the old bearing would be OK though ...

[larolco]

I would recomend NOT using the bushing to install new bearings ... you want to press on the outside race as not to put a thrust load on the balls ... which is what would happen when using the bushing ... Knocking out the old bearing would be OK though ...
No, you definitely don't want thrust load on the balls! :eek:

[TouringDude]

No, you definitely don't want thrust load on the balls! :eek:


speak for yourself ... :p

[Longsnowsm]

My bike is back in the shop for a tire problem yet again... I had ordered Master Mike's spacers a couple of weeks ago and they showed up last week. I wasn't sure when I was going to get the bike into the shop to replace them, but since this tire problem has reared it's ugly head again in the space of a couple of weeks I told the shop to replace the spacers while they are replacing the tire. I should get the bike back on Tuesday. Fingers crossed that Master Mike is onto something with this spacer idea.

Longsnowsm

[lsrxc]

Installed the spacers yesterday, in conjunction with replacing the Trailwings with the BT020's. I have to say that the change in shifting smoothness is amazing.

It doesn't cure baldness, or help you last longer in bed, but for a simple and cheap mod, it exceeded my expectations. Add me to the satisfied list, and a definite **** review.

[BumbleBee]

Now I have to come up with something to do with the old Zuk spacers, any ideas? :confused:

I'm hanging mine in my old clutch basket for a genuine Vstrom windchime!

[Inverted1]

Has anyone been notified of the next batch of spacers? They said they thought they would be notifying people on the waiting list in early April, but I have not heard anything.

[TouringDude]

Has anyone been notified of the next batch of spacers? They said they thought they would be notifying people on the waiting list in early April, but I have not heard anything.

i dropped mike a note and he said there will be a slight delay. as far as i know it's still in the works.

[Inverted1]

Thanks for the info. I just wanted to make sure my name didn't fall of the list somehow. I would really like to get the spacers before replacing my tires & sprocket.

[FireDog45]

i dropped mike a note and he said there will be a slight delay. as far as i know it's still in the works.

How do you get in touch with Mike? I emailed him twice to find out how to get a set of his spacers and haven't received any response at all. I used the "masterspacers@gmail.com" address (it was the only one I could find) but was thinking maybe I should PM him instead. I'd like to get on the list for the next available batch.

[TouringDude]

How do you get in touch with Mike? I emailed him twice to find out how to get a set of his spacers and haven't received any response at all. I used the "masterspacers@gmail.com" address (it was the only one I could find) but was thinking maybe I should PM him instead. I'd like to get on the list for the next available batch.

it usually takes him several days to respond. sometimes longer. it's pretty clear this is not his primary source of income. don't know what to say beyond that. i'm also feeling a little frustrated. i can get the specs for the new spacers. might make more sense just to find a local machine shop.

[FireDog45]

Thanks TouringDude!

I wanted to contact him but didn't want to "stalk" him since I figured this was a side gig for him. I just wanted to make sure I was actually sending my request to the right place. I'll give it a week and hopefully he'll get back to me.

[FireMedic]

My Wee is on its way. I have been reading about the spacer mod and I am wondering if this is something that I should do early or later. Also does the 2k7 have this issue still.

[Markriz]

I am picking up my 2007 big Vee and I am wondering if this issue still exists on the 2007 models too!!!!!!!!!!

[WeThereYet]

My Wee is on its way. I have been reading about the spacer mod and I am wondering if this is something that I should do early or later. Also does the 2k7 have this issue still.


It's a Vee thing! You're good!

[MonkeyGrass]

I am picking up my 2007 big Vee and I am wondering if this issue still exists on the 2007 models too!!!!!!!!!!

As far as we know, this affects all 1k's from '02-current models.

[Heavy]

I am picking up my 2007 big Vee and I am wondering if this issue still exists on the 2007 models too!!!!!!!!!!

My '06 V has the "issue". Spacers go in tomorrow.

[MightyShep]

My Wee is on its way. I have been reading about the spacer mod and I am wondering if this is something that I should do early or later. Also does the 2k7 have this issue still.

The Wee is not affected by this. Just the Vee. Conventional wisdom has it that the Vee was originally inteded to have a 530 chain and was switched last minute to a 525 ergo the 2mm offset. Seems the Wee was done correctly from the factory.

[TouringDude]

for all the detail regarding this issue you can stand, link to the 14 pages of dialogue at the below link.

i was skeptical until i kept running across other skeptics in the thread who tried the mod and ended up raving about it.

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=101176542802

[BC-Bruce]

Conventional wisdom has it that the Vee was originally inteded to have a 530 chain and was switched last minute to a 525 ergo the 2mm offset.

I'm not the mechanical type, so forgive me if this is a dumb question - why not put a 530 chain on in place of the 525 then?

- BCB.

[greywolf]

It's way more expensive, more work, and adds a good deal of unsprung weight. It will last longer though.

[Tailgunner]

Will fitting the spacer affect my Suzuki warranty?

And I wouldn' have thought a 530 chain would add too much unsprung weight. More importantly, surely it would be easier just to change the chain rather than taking the rear wheel etc apart?

[TouringDude]

Will fitting the spacer affect my Suzuki warranty?

And I wouldn' have thought a 530 chain would add too much unsprung weight. More importantly, surely it would be easier just to change the chain rather than taking the rear wheel etc apart?

changing the chain won't fix the problem.

all the new spacers do is seat the sprocket more securely into the rear hub, making a more solid connection between the sprocket and hub.

try to imagine wearing a cap in a stiff breeze. unless you cinch the hat down snugly on your head, the wind could blow your hat off.

same principle with the rubber bushings in your rear wheel. they are not cinched tightly into the hub, allowing the sprocket to "wobble" (wind trying to blow the cap off).

mike's spacers cinch everything tightly together, making everything more secure.

the end result of the spacers is smoother, more solid shifting, because there is less "slop" in the final drive.

[Tailgunner]

Thank you TouringDude, all of a sudden this great big thread makes sense! :)

I'm gonna ask my dealer if fitting what Suzuki clearly should have done in the first place will affect my warranty.

[TouringDude]

Thank you TouringDude, all of a sudden this great big thread makes sense! :)

I'm gonna ask my dealer if fitting what Suzuki clearly should have done in the first place will affect my warranty.

honestly, i doubt they'd notice the spacer was different. it looks identical.

[greywolf]

To put a 530 chain on, you have to change the sprockets as well as the chain. That requires much more work than changing the spacers.

[Tailgunner]

Ta again.

The best thing about this forum is being able to pick the brains of more experienced people (IE greywolf and TouringDude).

:D

[DFW_Warrior]

Well, I just thought I'd chime in as well on the subject. I installed my new spacers about a month ago and wanted to get some seat time with them before making a comment. One month later and over 3k miles and I'm a very satisfied Strom owner. The spacers work great. But you guys already know all this.

I guess I'm just preaching to the chior on this, but oh well, I still wanna do it.

[Berserker]

Smoother shifting, faster throttle response, more horse power!

Well, smoother shifting and less chain lag imho.

[MonkeyGrass]

Now I have to come up with something to do with the old Zuk spacers, any ideas? :confused:

I'm hanging mine in my old clutch basket for a genuine Vstrom windchime!


that's GOLD, Jerry!!

GOLD

[tucsonstrom]

Just received an e-mail from the master. After two months since last contact the he indicated shipment should start soon :p :p :p

[MonkeyGrass]

Guys, the Master has emailed me. We're killing him with orders, and he's making one final batch of 100 spacers. I *highly* suggest ordering a set now if you want to have one of the last round sent to you!!!

[MightyShep]

If Mike is getting out of the Spacer game, maybe we have a CNC machinist on the board that could take up the business?

[NorCal Rob]

I've been reading this thread with interest, and am on the pre-order list...

Is the 2mm offset an issue for the Wee, or just the Vee? My understanding is that the chassis / frame is the same -- is that right? Also, is it an issue for the ABS 07 model. If so, I'd like to get the spacers now before Master Mike stops production.... Any one know?

Thanks!

NorCal Rob

[fl_strom]

I have been on the list since mid-March of this year. I wasn't too sure of what was happening. I got this e-mail from Master Mike yesterday.



"Hello, I am ready for delivery!

The price is still 55$

I'm sorry or the immense delay,

The Kit include the Spacers, 1 OEM Suzuki Dust-Cover, and shipping to overseas.

I send the spacers via Airmail(3-7days), but without tracking number. But this way is much expensive!

DISCLAIMER: The only purpose of the spacers is to enable a 2 mm changed installation of the sprocket carrier on the Suzuki V-Strom. I warrant only for the spacers. Proper installation is your responsibility. I am not liable for any negative effects that might result from unqualified installation. It is your own responsibility to check for your countries laws, which sometimes might exclude changing any drive train parts, or do any modification work to the motorcycles rear wheel.

For more Tec.-Info read here:
http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=101176542802

Or in German:
http://www.v-stromforum.de/viewtopic.php?t=527

For any further question, just mail me!

Payment:

55$ US for US and Canada.

Money transfers for USA and Canada, please use Paypal .

Receiver account is my email address.

Shipments will be done after I received the money on my PayPal Account.

As soon the transfer is confirmed, I bring the package to the post-office and confirm you the dispatch of the commodity.

Remember: Do not forgot the delivery-address on PayPal!

Please use THIS e-Mail address for conversation or PayPal-order: masterspacers@gmail.com

Thanks for your confidence!

Master Mike"



I sent my PayPal payment this AM. Hope to have the spacers here and installed by the weekend.

[TouringDude]

ditto ... got the same message, and forwarded funds to master mike.

[greywolf]

Is the 2mm offset an issue for the Wee, or just the Vee? Just the 1000. Do not attempt to use MM spacers on a 650.

[fl_strom]

Now you have me thinking there Greywolf.

The part numbers for the spacers on the Wee-Strom and the Vee-Strom are different part numbers. Do you think if you used the Wee-Strom parts in the Vee-Strom the problem would go away? Might be the alternative source folks are looking for.

Just a thought.

Ron Ayers Lists the parts for the Wee-Strom as:

64711-03F10 - inside
64751-27G00 - outside

For the Vee-Strom, the part numbers are:

64733-06G00 - inside
64751-06G00 - outside

Anyone have any input on this?

[greywolf]

Notice the rear drum sprocket part number numbers are different too, not just the spacers.

[PonchoV]

If there is real interest in this spacer, send me one & what the unit it is made from. I have a good friend in the business & I'll get a price per 100, 500 & 1000.
I currently ride a 650, but then I may grow another 4 inches & enjoy the time spent in working on the DL1000.

[TouringDude]

poncho ... i think there is a significant biz opportunity, at least for the next year or two. have been wondering why no one on this side of the atlantic has tried to capitalize. i tried to get a friend interested who has access to a machine shop, but no luck.

[PonchoV]

I'm in Jax, FL maybe the std of living is low enough here that something can happen. We have done a few thing like this in the past. There is a limited market. Once installed it will never be a replacment needed. I have never seen the unit but just sound of the thing shouldn't be to bad. Do you know what metal is used?
Wolfgang

[MightyShep]

Mike's been making them out of stainless steel. What grade, I can't say.

[BobbySands]

i sent an email regarding buying a set of MM's spacers almost a month ago. today i received the same email as previously mentioned. i am on the pre-order list and will receive an email when he is ready to ship. 55$ sent to the states.

i suppose after 1500 miles of shit alignment i'll need to replace cush blocks and some other parts.

[MightyShep]

...i suppose after 1500 miles of shit alignment i'll need to replace cush blocks and some other parts.

You should be okay, bearing wise. If the sprocket carrier comes out easy replace the cush rubbers. But they are not verry expensive.

[BobbySands]

i made a grievous error in my last statement....


it should have read:

i suppose after 15,000 miles of shit alignment....

not 1500. sorry. still think my bearing is alright? what else might i need?

[TouringDude]

i made a grievous error in my last statement....


it should have read:

i suppose after 15,000 miles of shit alignment....

not 1500. sorry. still think my bearing is alright? what else might i need?

look at the bright side ... bearings and rubber cushions are relatively cheap! :rolleyes:

[MightyShep]

i made a grievous error in my last statement....


it should have read:

i suppose after 15,000 miles of shit alignment....

not 1500. sorry. still think my bearing is alright? what else might i need?


I'd do my rear bearings (wheel and carrier) when you pull the wheel to replace the spacers. I did mine at 23000 and it made a huge difference. There wasn;t any real visible wear on the bearings, but you will be able to notice the difference. Then do your front when you replace a tire. Or if your OCD get's the best of you (like it did me :D ) you can do 'em all together. The old spacer works great for inserting the new bearings. Much better than the socket my Haynes manual recomended.

[BobbySands]

thanks for the info. i have a horrid clunk into first and it talks itself into staying in neutral when shifting from 1st to 2nd with a click-click-click. perhaps this is all due to wear from the misalignment, perhaps i have other problems. i know where to start.

thanks for all the help. i'm not sure what else i can ask of you.

unless you can just get me the part #s for all that stuff and tell me what time is good to stop by so you can install it all, too.

seriously, thanks for the input. waiting on spacers and a little more $$

[MightyShep]

I did notice an improvement in smoothness after both replaceing the spacers and the bearings. If you do both at the same time yo will be amazed!

[DaddyO]

My nieghbor said I could get him a blue print of them, they could make them, no problem at all....

Anyone got a blue print?

[linkup]

I looked around but I did not see where is a good place to get one of these kits you are talking about.

[MightyShep]

I looked around but I did not see where is a good place to get one of these kits you are talking about.

As far as I know there is only one guy on the planet making them. He's a V-Strom owner who discovered the problem and machined the new spacers.

Here read this.

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=101176542802&search=cush%2Cdrive

It will give you all the details of the discovery process.

[awd505]

I took the bait, bought a set. Seems to be improved so far the short distance I rode. Much less notchy going into second. Who's going to step up to provide now that Master MIke is no longer producing them.

[TomT]

I'm going to be buying an '07 this week. Is this something I need to look into ASAP?

Thanks,
Tom

[VtSTROM-K5]

My nieghbor said I could get him a blue print of them, they could make them, no problem at all....

Anyone got a blue print?
I don't think You need the blue print , You have the OEM spacers.
Part #8 needs to be 2mm shorter & #9 Needs to be 2mm longer the other part dimensions don't change.... But they need to be precise and true to each other in terms of allignment .
Good luck!! and please post results & availability when your neighbor is up and running with the parts.. thanks .

[Mortaine]

I'm going to be buying an '07 this week. Is this something I need to look into ASAP?

Thanks,
Tom

That would be a big NO

[Mortaine]

As far as I know there is only one guy on the planet making them. He's a V-Strom owner who discovered the problem and machined the new spacers.

Mighty it is not a problem its just a lazy fix for those that do not want to replace their worn out cush drive and sprocket hub bearing. I have tried stock, I have tried 1 mm spacers, I have tried 2 mm spacers Yes it does tighten up the slack is there a misalignment NO the chain already runs on the inside of the sprocket to off set it an additional 2 mm only adds additional wear to the chain and sprocket. If you want to point a finger at a short comming, a ball bearing is not designed to be side loaded and the bearing used in the sprocket hub is a ball bearing and as a result fails early.

Suzuki has been building motorcycles for years and to think that they would misalign a rear sprocket on this particular bike and no others is ludicrous they specialize in detail they are not going to make a 2 mm mistake. Why is Master Mike willing to quit making a product that most of you are willing to buy with blind abandon when there is money to be made off of you guys?? Hell I can make the damn things for you guys but I would feel bad about taking your money but if enough of you are willing to spend your money I will give it serious consideration. The mentality exhibited toward these spacers does not speak well for the mentality of the 1k strom group as a whole.

[awd505]

Lazy?

I have a total of 6400 miles. Explain why you think the bearing and cush pads are worn out, Mort?

Do you know for a fact your claims are true!!!

Additional wear? At what point? If the chain is running in the middle of the sprocket v. rubbing the inside face, Isn't that good??? Doesn't it indicate the front and rear sprocket are aligned.

There is already "side load" on the bearing. The sprocket is not directly over the bearing, there for, side load.

The "mentality" to make claims un-substantiated doesn't make you look to bright your self, Mort.

[TouringDude]

i have to say that i did not notice a lot of benefit from the spacers. it could be the fix is more dramatic after the bike has more wear on it.

[CYKZflyer]

I just had my spacers installed in my 03 and they made a improvement to shifting and to low end rpm performance namely I can ride with the rpm down at 3000 to 3500 and not have parts rattle off. My regular passenger noticed that it was much smoother as well.I think worth the 55 bucks for sure.

[BadTrainDriver]

Does Mort ever have anything good to say about anything???

[Mortaine]

Lazy? (yes Lack of maintainance)

I have a total of 6400 miles. Explain why you think the bearing and cush pads are worn out, Mort? (Riding style)

Do you know for a fact your claims are true!!! (Do you know they are not?)

Additional wear? At what point? If the chain is running in the middle of the sprocket v. rubbing the inside face, Isn't that good??? Doesn't it indicate the front and rear sprocket are aligned. (Everyone of these bikes I have ever looked at have the chain rubbing the inside of the rear sprocket, to move it inward and additional 2 mm puts more wear and tear on the sprocket and chain plates) There is already "side load" on the bearing. The sprocket is not directly over the bearing, there for, side load (Yes and therefore putting a side load on a ball bearing, will shorten the life of the bearing. A ball bearing is not designed to take a side load
The "mentality" to make claims un-substantiated doesn't make you look to bright your self, Mort. (While you may think I am not to bright I can make my own spacers if I want them or thought there was a need for them. Where is it substantiated that a misalignment exhist have you ever measured? I have and choose to not go along with the herd mentality that a problem exhist.)
Something else to think about Liability and where to put the blame should someone have a sprocket/chain failure resulting in a crash, don't think it cannot happen I have read several post on this forum that I can only shake my head at and laugh. That cush drive is installed to reduce vibration, chain/sprocket and transmission gear wear. Being subjected to all kinds of abuse they will wear out.

[Mortaine]

Does Mort ever have anything good to say about anything???

Yes Sometimes I do but not often here. There is so much gloom and doom preached here maybe its a good thing the 1k will not be back in 08.

[awd505]

ooo lets scream at every one in RED. What an ass.

You have put everyone in the same catagory as being "lazy" and "lack of maintainance".

If you want to be informative, do so. If you want to slam others on the thread, piss off.

[quote]Everyone of these bikes I have ever looked at have the chain rubbing the inside of the rear sprocket, to move it inward and additional 2 mm puts more wear and tear on the sprocket and chain plates.[quote]

How do you figure?

[quote]Yes and therefore putting a side load on a ball bearing, will shorten the life of the bearing. A ball bearing is not designed to take a side load.[quote]

And your fix is? Are you going to re-design, re-engineer that part for Suzuki? Are the engineers at Suzuki unaware of Your measurements and fact?

Explain why so many claim they have noticed an improvement. Is it just the "Herd Mentality" and your the cowboy herding us to the pen. Yippie kyia (you know the rest).

Shake you head all you want, Mort. aka. Deadlok Shleprok -----doooom and glooom

[MonkeyGrass]

Knock it off Mortaine. Your opinion (regardless of how valid it may or may not be) has been voiced more than once on this issue. Now you are degenerating an informative thread into mindless bickering and name calling.

Shut it down.

[Mortaine]

Knock it off Mortaine. Your opinion (regardless of how valid it may or may not be) has been voiced more than once on this issue. Now you are degenerating an informative thread into mindless bickering and name calling.

Shut it down.

What happened to freedom of speech Monkey you tout the benefit I tout the foolishness of spending money to misalign your rear sprocket. As for name calling I have called no one any names, as for informative only if they accept your opinion that they are a benefit. As for opinions you have voiced yours more then once as have I, Shut it down? Ok! you leave it alone and I will also.
Nice Pic's of your garage its nice to know there is someone out there thats sloppier then I am in the garage.:p :p

[Heavy]

Knock it off Mortaine.

I actually find his comments interesting. Its good to hear from both sides of the fence and he, almost always, manages to find himself on the other side. I agree with the freedom of speech thing, leave him be.

[greywolf]

As to the freedom of speech thing, this isn't usenet. It's a privately owned forum and the owner graciously allows us to post here. He is free to make the rules including apponting moderators to set the tone. The tone of this forum is why I like it here. Brendan and the moderators are doing a fine job of making this a great forum.

[Heavy]

Yes, I have not forgotten your previous mention of the private/permission aspect of the forum.

The guy is stating the opposing side of the discussion, isn't that allowed? He may be slightly harsh in how he does it but are we that thin skinned? TouringDude said basically the same thing as Mortaine, he just didn't offer any reason or arguement.

Read the posts from RainierTom about his oiler system. Someone made a derogatory comment on that and he went off on a panty rant. No one told him to "knock it off".

http://stromtrooper.com/forums/showpost.php?p=120534&postcount=6

http://stromtrooper.com/forums/showpost.php?p=120540&postcount=7

Mortaine didn't even resort to the use of profanity

[MonkeyGrass]

What happened to freedom of speech Monkey you tout the benefit I tout the foolishness of spending money to misalign your rear sprocket. As for name calling I have called no one any names, as for informative only if they accept your opinion that they are a benefit.

For starters - you are just flat wrong in so many ways it's hard to know where to start. The spacers are even not meant to "re-align" the sprocket. That is a side effect, sometimes better, sometimes worse depending on the bike. If you had read this thread - you would have picked up on that by now... They are meant to seat the sprocket carrier deeper into the wheel hub - which is too far out of the hub, and becomes loose and sloppy with the stock setup. The excess lateral force on the bearing causes accelerated wear on the entire assembly, the cush rubbers wear out way too quickly and eventually the sprocket and chain are trashed. The bearing can sustain a side load under normal operation - but there is way too much load because the cush rubbers eventually cannot continue to absorb the force exerted by a sprocket that is unstable.

You are responsible for spreading more mis-information than anyone else participating in this discussion. You act as though you work in a Suzuki m/c repair shop - spouting off about "all the 1k's you've seen". How many? 3? 4? As I've stated, this problem begins to show up around 8-10k miles. If you inspect a 1k with less miles, you will not see evidence of the problem. I've seen at least 4 high-mileage 1k's and they ALL had excess play and slop in the rear drive. Cush drives and carrier bearings are not meant to be replaced between 8k-15k miles. I'm pretty damn sure if they were, these brilliant Suzuki engineers (who can't seem to develop a proper FI map or even a simple windscreen for this bike) would have made a note in the "scheduled maintenance" part of the FSM detailing how these cush rubbers should be replaced as part of a regular service interval. Replace the spacers early, you will not notice a major improvement, rather you prevent the bearings and cush rubbers from wearing out so quickly. Either way, there is a very well documented problem here, and preaching the perfection of Suzuki's R&D dept is making you look quite foolish.

And this is not a public venue... it's a privately owned and operated forum and your "freedom of speech" goes as far as Brendan, myself, and the rest of the moderators allow it to go. You continue to inflame and post ridiculous messages in an attempt to get people riled up and I am not going to have it. Your last series of posts telling people that it's "normal" for these cush rubbers to be replaced more often than a rear tire, then adding that it's "laziness and lack of maintenance", and a bad "driving style" that leads to this failure is not just inaccurate, but insulting to anyone who takes care of their bike properly. If you continue, guess what will happen? Yes that's right your posts will again be deleted.

[Heavy]

Now that is an excellent rebuttal.

[MonkeyGrass]

Yes, I have not forgotten your previous mention of the private/permission aspect of the forum.

The guy is stating the opposing side of the discussion, isn't that allowed? He may be slightly harsh in how he does it but are we that thin skinned? TouringDude said basically the same thing as Mortaine, he just didn't offer any reason or arguement.



Heavy - I don't have an issue with someone stating an opposite opinion, what I have a problem with is beating a dead horse, and throwing inaccurate information around as truth. This modification has changed hundreds of 1k's for the better. MaskerMike only quit making them because he was getting TOO MANY orders and can't keep up with the demand. And well over 90% of the folks who have installed them report major improvements in shifting, rear drive wear and less chudder/chatter driving at low rpms. The rest I think were too low mileage to really notice a difference, but they will not have to replace $200 worth of rear drive parts at 10-15k miles. Watch and see.

I've now done 14k since my spacer swap. I have nearly 16k on my chain & sprockets, with only normal signs of wear. My shifting is better than most 650's and slick as butter on a hot summer day. My sprocket is solid and everything is tight. After that same mileage on the stock setup, my rear sprocket wiggled 3/16" in either direction, the chain was toast, sprockets rounded out, my carrier bearing was literally in pieces and the bike shifted like the gearbox was full of concrete. Those are documented facts. I don't see any from his side.

[Mortaine]

Monkey IF you have a problem with inaccurate information then QUIT spreading it. THERE is nothing wrong with the stock set up (there is NO misalignment) just someone came up with a way to tighten up worn out cush drive's and according to you they are the best thing since sliced bread. They make the transmission shift better BULL they remove the slack caused by wear and tear due to the way some of you beat the machine. As for how many I have seen 20 + I have owned two of the damn things, unknowing to you Yes I do work on them. You beat the bike thinking you are Ricky racer and yes you will beat the cush drive to death along with the sprocket hub bearing. Yes its private permission but I don't think I have been out of line this time and I damn sure do not post on this forum about a product that does not correct a built in problem. Suzuki engineers are not as stupid as some of you would have people believe they know how to build a bike, car, and truck. As for the built in problems with the FI that is mandated by our government and Suzuki is trying to comply. Some of them even read this forum with all the P&Ming you cannot blame them for canning the bike, none of us are happy with it plus it is not a highly desireable bike. You talk about mileage the one I kept is past eleven thousand miles and the cush drive and bearing is still intact and has NO excessive slop. While mine does not shift like a hot knife through butter (none do not even yours maybe you learned how to shift it) it shifts very good and I do not have a problem with it. Then again I am not a Ricky racer I have been there done that and no longer have anything to prove. You want me to shut up Gladly but I think you should likewise SHUT UP. Being a mud erator does not make you an authority I think just a little fella that wants to be thought of as important.

[awd505]

The point I was making confirmed.

Mort - Please Explain why my shifting has improved just as other have claimed? Did I all of a sudden change the way I shift. Nope. I am not a hard rider "Ricky Racer" and don't pound the gears or abuse the clutch. That is all I'm asking and you have Not answered those question I asked you directly. My cush drive is not worn out. It's tight, no play.

These forums are for debating, but don't flame others with out backing it up or your going to ripped. You really have not back it up. Maybe you lucked out on your two bikes and did not have the problem, other do and for what ever reason it works. Is it a bandaid to an underlying issue?
Have you or any one else done a long term comparison from the same bike, with stock spacer and then with the MM spacer. Monkeygrass seems to have that proof. Seems to have the credability, regardless of his statis on this site???

You ended your last two post like a child.

[MonkeyGrass]

And I really thought for a minute or two that you would have wised up by this point. Sadly, not the case.

I'll keep this very simple, buddy, so even you can understand it... 17k on the stock setup and my entire rear drive was shot. 16k on the new rear drive with new rubbers, MM spacers and new bearings, and the rear drive is as tight as the day I rebuilt it. I haven't changed they way I drive, actually I added a PCIII and the bike pulls stronger than ever. The ONLY difference in the entire system is the spacers. It responds perfectly now.

Facts, Mortaine. I have them - you do not. Like it or not, that's the simple truth of the matter. You have nothing more than saying "But Suzuki engineers are brilliant" to support your claim that all is well in the universe. :rolleyes:

You also seem to have some misguided belief that Suzuki cannot make a simple mistake, and has perfect quality control over their manufacturing process. Why, I don't know. What I do know is that Triumph and Honda both have ZERO issues with FI mapping on their liter-class bikes, and their bikes pass the EXACT same emissions tests that Suzuki's have to pass. I understand WHY the bike is mapped the way it is, but the reality is that engine should have been redesigned 5 years ago to meet current emission standards, not choked so lean that the bike stalls and stutters at anything under 4k rpms. This again, is piss-poor engineering and typical Suzuki cost-cutting.

And please, all of us love our bikes - you are the one always preaching doom and gloom. All we like to do, is un-cut the corners that Suzuki cut in order to save money and sell the bike as cheaply as possible. It's a trade-off, and one that most here are more than willing to make.

Now run along back to your little shop and keep nuthugging Suzuki's engineers. I'm sure they appreciate your endless wisdom and support. Not to mention, a nice reach-around every once in a while... :lol:

[CarSalesman]

I want to have a local machinist make spacers for me. I remember there was a detailed drawing of these someplace online, but I can't find it. Anyone got a link to that page?

[VtSTROM-K5]

I want to have a local machinist make spacers for me. I remember there was a detailed drawing of these someplace online, but I can't find it. Anyone got a link to that page?

Again the simplest way from point A to B is :
You don't need the blue print , You have the OEM spacers.
Part #8 needs to be 2mm shorter & #9 Needs to be 2mm longer the other part dimensions don't change.... But they need to be precise and true to each other in terms of allignment .
Good luck!! and please post results & availability when your neighbor is up and running with the parts.. thanks .

[Mortaine]

Wow Monk

You truly are, but then you know that without me telling you.:p :p Look this word up if you don't understand, Tonta

[Big B]

This has gotten rather interesting...kinda like the show "The View"!:mrgreen: Believe it or not, nobody is really off topic, but yet it seems to be. Mort hasn't been playing mean in the sandbox "lately", and he does have his right to his opinion and experiences. I personally know Monkeygrass, and he isn't one to talk out his arse. I have been a sceptic from day one concerning this issue, but I am still undecided at this point. He and I have talked about this issue allot, and we both agree that enough bikes have been affected to raise an eyebrow. I am coming up on 13 thousand miles on my 1000, and I still have great shifting and no hub play. For the record.....I DON'T BABY THIS BIKE!!!!! I will check everything really good when I do the next rear tire change. I do agree that the cush rubbers shouldn't have excessive wear on them any more than a chain and sprockets would. Does anybody know if other motorcycles have their cush rubbers wearing out any quicker? I am on the anal side about chain alignment/adjustment and cleaning/lubing, maybe that is why I haven't had an issue? There are 2 camps in this debate...those that have problems, and those who have "yet" to see a problem. It is a little like the FI situation, although I feel that it is just a matter of time before a person is affected with "the problem". There is no debate that the 1000 runs too lean, and those that appear to run good are still on the verge of farting.

This hasn't been an unfriendly debate, but I won't allow it to get out of hand. The horse is starting to get beaten quite a bit....and the old gray mare aint what she used to be.;)

Brian

[Gary]

I have almost 17,000 on my Vee, chain is shot... I have a new chain and sprockets ordered along with the cush pads and should be in anytime. I am going to look things over carefully when I take it all apart, and will make the decision on the spacing then, and I'll let you know what I find. Everyone I talk to says that 17,000 on chain and sprockets ain't bad for any bike. But my shifting isn't as smooth as I think it should be, so I'll be checking it out. In the meantime, ya'll lighten up some hey!!! Its all about the bike anyway!! ha!!

Gary

[awd505]

Mort - Are you ignoring my questions:?::?

BigB - Again you validate that some bikes have a problem, some don't. MonkeyGrass seems to be the only one with substantial miles with both set ups.

Why the problem? Know one has yet explained the mechanicnal reason this occurs. M.M. Spacers obviously work. If the owner doesn't do preventative maint. then it's their problem and have no reason to complain to an OEM about this. It's cheap insurance to replace them if signs of wear in the pads or bearing. Reading this thread has made me aware of this and to check it occasionally.

[TouringDude]

both have a point, and that point is:

1) the spacers DO NOT address an alignment issue. they seat the rubber bushing more firmly into the hub.

2) it is not obvious to me that the spacers have the desired affect. i suspect if you change the cushions at the same time that you change chain/sprocket, it would have the same affect.

like i said, i swapped my spacers and could not tell the diff. but then again, my bike only has 5k miles on it.

one more point ... if you guys were sitting face to face, talking over a beer, would you bust each others' chops that way? if not, you might consider ratcheting back on the hostility.

just a thought. we are all mature adults living in a free country (so at least we WERE free), so surely there is room for differences in opinion and tolerance.

[Mortaine]

awd
Your transmission shifting did not improve, you eliminated slop in the drive train which reduced the clunk affect. Let me put this another way so maybe you can understand it. A car or truck, one of the u-joints becomes loose result a clunk everytime the transmission shifts. Is the transmission at fault No, replace the U-joint and smooth shifting returns. You eliminated wear slop from the drive chain and sprockets so your butt dyno and ears think you have improved the transmission shifting. I hope this answer is sufficient but I doubt it.

[fryeg7]

i like chocolate ice cream. and motorcycles.

frye

[Mortaine]

Touring dude I am not being hostile I am being rather nice for me. As for drinking beer with him and one of the sheep herders No I would not drink beer with them. Big and the rest yes I would. I am surprised he has not threatened to sensor my post that is usually the case when I won't go along with misinformation. I have tried different sized spacers as have you and saw NO improvement since my sprocket hub bearing was not worn out I put the originals back and have 10T on the original cush drive and brg. I also put a great deal of time into removing my chain to check sprocket alignment with and without the spacers. Mighty yes I would drink beer with you I don't want you to misinterpret my reference to a sheep herder as being you. ;)

[TouringDude]

As for drinking beer with him and one of the sheep herders No I would not drink beer with them.

that is a real pity. it's a friggin wheel spacer, fer chrissake. i'll bet they might surprise you that they are decent people ... as you might surprise them. i have not met anyone on this list that i would not enjoy meeting.

except maybe the guy who dumped it in deep sand and wants to sue suzuki ... :rolleyes:

[awd505]

ok Mort., how is moving the hub in 2mm enough contact area to make up the "slop" with cush pads that are in very good condition:?:

U-joints are a solid assembly with no slop when in good condition. When they are bad, they clunk with in them selves but don't effect the engagment of the transmission. I've driven a cars with a bad drive shaft u-joint, it did Not effect the shifting or engagment. It just clucked when I accelerate and de-celerate.

Oh wait, I know, I was to "lazy" to do proper maintenance. On a none maintainable part.

Opinions are expected but when Mort insults people with out true facts, then makes another statement like
"I hope this answer is sufficient but I doubt it" he's just petty dink.

I am pretty mechanically inclined but Mort. doesn't know that. He just assumes since myself and Monkey disagree with his theory and challenging his real knowledge on the subject. I think his knowledge and theory are suspect.

[Mortaine]

awd
You are too funny Yup by golly you can really make that transmission shift better without changing transmission parts, you are so smart I concede you are much too smart for me. Gollieeeeeeeeeeee you is smart. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[Mortaine]

that is a real pity. it's a friggin wheel spacer, fer chrissake. i'll bet they might surprise you that they are decent people ... as you might surprise them. i have not met anyone on this list that i would not enjoy meeting.

except maybe the guy who dumped it in deep sand and wants to sue suzuki ... :rolleyes:

TD I never said or ment to imply he was not decent he and I just have different thoughts about things and I am kind of sensitive about who I will drink beer with. :) :)

[awd505]

And where is the u-joint in the transmission. D-A. yukyuk

Still can't answer the rest of the questions to prove you point. Simple as that. Try doing that instead of smoochin.

Interesting most of us who post show where we are from. Who are you hiding from? Mort

[Big B]

Well fellas....I "believe" the better cush rubbers came out in 2005, which would make sense why allot of us haven't had any shifting issues. They are meant to be replaced and wear out....so I will check mine again at 20 thousand or so. Pretty cheap price to pay for something that helps your bike perform well. The MM spacers are a good thing and I am all for it. Are they a "real solution" for all involved?

[Mortaine]

And where is the u-joint in the transmission. D-A. yukyuk

Still can't answer the rest of the questions to prove you point. Simple as that. Try doing that instead of smoochin.

Interesting most of us who post show where we are from. Who are you hiding from? Mort

I know you are in a great deal of pain so lets just leave it at that

[awd505]

baaaHahaha. Can't do it, can ya. Hahahah. Pour Mort. He's got punk NUTHIN.

[wraighter]

I have watched this thread with interest. At some stage there was talk of censoring certain contributors. IMHO, opinions were stated with passion but were not OTT.

My request here is: please do not censor. As one who is only moderately technical in mechanics (I could pull your horse apart and put it back together again quite well though!) I appreciate reading both sides to any arguement.

Rather than be told that there is only one solution to a problem, I would rather hear all the ideas concerning it. So please, everyone, keep up the good work.

And Viva La Passion!

[awd505]

Has anyone measured the wheel assembly and then piece by piece from a bike that has this problem '02-0? that the MM spacers seem to have cured v. a bike that does not have this issue? Is there a change Suzuki did, even if slight.

A test to replicate this is by making spacers that moves the assembly outward 2mm, install on a bike that doesn't need them to see if this creates what we have claimed the MM spacers solve? If I had access to a lathe I'd do it my self. Could be made out aluminum since they would only be a temperary application.

[Big B]

You guys done now????:mrgreen: Lets either use the spacers and rejoice in their greatness, believe that they really don't help much, makes you "believe" they are actually helping, or just don't give a damn either way. This debate will continue to go on and on and on until Suzuki admits or prooves there isn't a problem. I for one, am just gonna keep racking up the miles and smiles. Lets point fault at the manufacturer if it is true.... but not at people who have opinions and "maybe" even factual findings.

[Mortaine]

Ok Big point made point accepted, I'll quit, even deleted what I thoiught was a good rebuttal.

[awd505]

Good night.

[V-Sam]

I have a new 07 and my chain / sprocket looks just the opposite of the pictures in post #95. The teeth rest against the outside chain plates.

Is this normal?

If I understand this thread correctly, the spacers would push the sprocket in tighter to the hub, and in my case, move the teeth away from the outside plates and more to the middle?

[DaddyO]

Good point, I'm confused also. From the looks of it, the sproket would be moved more to the left, away from the wheel to get the chain to align properly.

[V-Sam]

I don't think I'm confused. But maybe.

It just seems that adding the MM spacer on my bike would move the sprocket in a more "centerish" position in relation to the chain (by-product), while snugging things up (intent).

This would be good, I suspect.

This did not seem to be the case on post #95.

[MonkeyGrass]

A lot of this depends on how worn your rubbers already are. From what I've found after looking at several Stroms, the less miles you have, the further "in" (towards the hub) your teeth are. As the drivetrain gets more mileage, and the cush rubbers get worn, the sprocket will begin to "pull" out of the hub and the teeth will look more towards the outside of the chain plates. Seem like a contradiction, but it's not. At that point, the sprocket is usually tilted and the tension on the chain pulls it further and further out on the hub as the whole assembly begins to let go.

Remember - I can't stress this enough. This mod has NOTHING TO DO with chain alignment. Some it may make better. Some, it may move the teeth even further in. The spacer seat the sprocket carrier deeper in the hub. Which is what prevent crazy, wobbling rear sprockets and blown bearing. Whatever it does or doesn't do to the chain is irrelevant. Forget about the chain. It's about the hub and the carrier only.

[V-Sam]

A lot of this depends on how worn your rubbers already are. From what I've found after looking at several Stroms, the less miles you have, the further "in" (towards the hub) your teeth are. As the drivetrain gets more mileage, and the cush rubbers get worn, the sprocket will begin to "pull" out of the hub and the teeth will look more towards the outside of the chain plates.

Okay, I understand not being snug and load leverage and worn out parts and slop and wobbling. But you've lost me right there.

Why don't the stock spacers control this lateral movement away from the hub? They have the same "stack up" as the MMs after all.

Isn't the contention that there is a condition - due to the stock spacing - that prevents the sprocket from being snug to the hub. And this condition results in excessive wear to crush rubbers, bearings, etc. that leads to "wobble" and not actual lateral overall changes (movement) between the hub and the sprocket?

Also, what do you think is going on with mine? It's brand spankin new and the sprocket teeth are clearly aligned near the outside chain plates.

Thanks

[MonkeyGrass]

Why don't the stock spacers control this lateral movement away from the hub? They have the same "stack up" as the MMs after all.

No, they don't stack up the same at all. That's exactly why MM spacers are 2mm shorter on the inside, and 2mm longer on the outside. They push the sprocket carrier deeper into the hub. That's the whole point.

Isn't the contention that there is a condition - due to the stock spacing - that prevents the sprocket from being snug to the hub. And this condition results in excessive wear to crush rubbers, bearings, etc. that leads to "wobble" and not actual lateral overall changes (movement) between the hub and the sprocket?

I'm not quite sure what your question is? They are one and the same... the "wobble" you speak of is actual lateral change in where the sprocket is supposed to sit. The sprocket is under constant tension from the chain. As the wear increases, the sprocket is pulled even further out of the rear hub. It cants farther in at the front, and out in the back, you can grab the sprocket and physically wiggle it from side to side within the hub. Replacement rubbers from Suzuki (that are a stiffer compound than 04 and earlier models) and the spacers snug it all together and prevent the wear.



Also, what do you think is going on with mine? It's brand spankin new and the sprocket teeth are clearly aligned near the outside chain plates.

Thanks

What do I think? I think Suzuki has some quality control issues and not all DL1000 final drives are the same. ;) Most seem aligned to the outside, many are in the middle and a few are towards the inside. That's the only reason why some folks want to contend "there isn't a problem". They are missing the whole point that the spacers are not meant to address ANY chain or sprocket alignment issues. In some (many) cases, like mine, it actually brings the teeth back to the middle of the chain. That's an incidental after-effect. The ONLY reason for doing this mod is to seat the carrier deeper into the hub. Where the sprocket ends up is meaningless, you'll have less overall chain and teeth wear b/c the sprocket won't be wiggling all over the place when the cush rubber start to wear out.

[V-Sam]

No, they don't stack up the same at all. That's exactly why MM spacers are 2mm shorter on the inside, and 2mm longer on the outside. They push the sprocket carrier deeper into the hub. That's the whole point.

Let me say this another way: If you take 2mm off spacer #8 and add 2mm to spacer #9, they still stack up to the same overall WIDTH.

...the "wobble" you speak of is actual lateral change in where the sprocket is supposed to sit.

We may be saying the same thing differently.

I believe, but have not verified, that these spacers control the nominal lateral location of the sprocket. In the stock set up, the carrier is aledgedly "out of snug" by 2mm. Unless the spacers wear, it will remain - nominally - 2mm "out of snug". The sprocket will, however increase its' wobble or tilt around this nominal location due to all the wear to the other associated parts and the pull of the chain. The entire sprocket will not move further out as a whole. The tilt increases.

I wonder if the fit is 2mm short of snug, is there an engineering reason?

I work in manufacturing (Quality) and I've seen things that did not appear right. Sometimes it was a CAD or drafting error, but other times there was a less obvious justifiable reason.

Is Mike still selling spacers?

[Warren Cooper]

I recently sold my MM spacers to another member, Because as I stated they made no noticeable difference to my 2005 K5.
What I didn't mention is that I have shimmed my rear rubber cushions in the rear hub. I used coke cans and cut approximately one inch strips with scissors and forced them between the outside edges of the hub and the rubber cushons. I used several strips on each cushion as they are not long enough for one to cover by itself. This tightens up the hub and removes the play that seems present on all V-Stroms.
Depending on how much play you have determines how many strips to use.
It should be a tight fit by hand. My Triumph Tiger and ZZR1200 require a mallot to put their stock cush drives together.
I have 22000 miles on the K5 and the rear hub shows no wear.

[V-Sam]

Got one of the last set of spacers from Mike and installed them tonight.

Question: Do I need to use the seal that came with the spacers? My bike has less than 900 miles on it.

[MightyShep]

Got one of the last set of spacers from Mike and installed them tonight.

Question: Do I need to use the seal that came with the spacers? My bike has less than 900 miles on it.

Not really. You can replace it if you want to, but at 900 miles I think the old one is fine.

[MonkeyGrass]

Just depends on whether or not you mangled the old one getting it off. If not, it's fine to re-use.

[V-Sam]

Thanks.

I'm taking the spacers to a tooling guy to get a quote since Mike is now out of business.

I dont know if I can quite fill his shoes, but maybe be a source at least.

Anyone else looking into making these?

Anyone have the specs?

[Watercat]

Just got one of the last MM spacers last week; was on the wait list if someone ordered, but didn't pay him. Well so far there is a noticeable difference - of course changed sprockets, chain, oil, etc. at the same time . . . . . Will report later with many more thousands miles for comparison.

[Gary]

At 17,018 miles, I replaced chain and sprockets on my 05 Vee. Sprockets showed no uneven wear, hub bushings still looked like new, and were snug and tight, had to work to get hub off.. did not put the new bushiings in. Chain was shot......sprockets had what I call normal wear patterns, just starting to dish or wave as I call it. After reassemly, I checked and double checked for any looseness in the hub, all good. Rode to work this morning, chain so quiet you can't hear it, shifting lots smoother, as it should. For now, I'm good. If I get another 17,000 out of new chain, we'll check it all out again!! My only hangup was I had to wait a week for my chain riveter to get here after I ordered it from Pitposse!!! ha!!! Seemed like a year!!! bike was in shop with new parts assembled, and just waiting for the right "tool" to finish!! So for now, I'm with the school of thought that the big vee has some tolerance issues in this area, and I got lucky!! All I can say is, was a wonderful ride to work, and the ride home will be hot!!!! ha!!! 102 today, its a cool front here in Arkansas!!!
Ride safe!!

Gary

[Jimding]

Okay, I understand not being snug and load leverage and worn out parts and slop and wobbling. But you've lost me right there.

Why don't the stock spacers control this lateral movement away from the hub? They have the same "stack up" as the MMs after all.

Isn't the contention that there is a condition - due to the stock spacing - that prevents the sprocket from being snug to the hub. And this condition results in excessive wear to crush rubbers, bearings, etc. that leads to "wobble" and not actual lateral overall changes (movement) between the hub and the sprocket?

Also, what do you think is going on with mine? It's brand spankin new and the sprocket teeth are clearly aligned near the outside chain plates.

Thanks

The outer spacer is a little longer, and the inner spacer(between the sprocket carrier and the back wheel) is a little shorter, effectively compressing the rubbers spacers a little tighter. The same effect could be gained by making thin shims to fit between the rubber cushions and the rear wheel. I recently installed new rubbers on my '02 Vee, and the improvement was great, at modest cost. Of course, the old ones were severely worn at 20K miles.

[TomT]

I just got an email telling me that I have a set of spacers available. Bought them immediately.

Now I can read everything here again and make my final decision about using them. I'm sure I would have no problem reselling them if I decide not to install.

Tom

[MightyShep]

I just got an email telling me that I have a set of spacers available. Bought them immediately.

Now I can read everything here again and make my final decision about using them. I'm sure I would have no problem reselling them if I decide not to install.

Tom
Tom if you choose not to, I'll take them from you.

[TomT]

Tom if you choose not to, I'll take them from you.

And here I was going to ask you for tips on installation. . . :)

[Dirt_Dad]

Just ordered mine. Mike sent me a note saying "This is one of the last kits." I don't know if he says that to all the girls, but it may (or may not) mean he's going to stop making them? Don't know, just thought I'd mention it.

[MightyShep]

And here I was going to ask you for tips on installation. . . :)
C'mon by, I'm up in San Pedro!

[TomT]

I got my spacers today!!! :D

I haven't even opened the box but will as soon as I get home.

[jasoninthevi]

I emailed Master Mike and he is no longer making spacers. Anyone know what else I can do?

[Jblk9695]

I emailed Master Mike and he is no longer making spacers. Anyone know what else I can do?

So nobody's going to step up to the plate and make these? If not I'll have a set to measure in a week or so and I'll make the things:mrgreen: After I take a look at time and material I'll post the price. Anyone know what grade of stainless these are made from? I thought that one of the stronger grades of aluminum might work, anybody have some input on this?

Jerry

[MightyShep]

So nobody's going to step up to the plate and make these? If not I'll have a set to measure in a week or so and I'll make the things:mrgreen: After I take a look at time and material I'll post the price. Anyone know what grade of stainless these are made from? I thought that one of the stronger grades of aluminum might work, anybody have some input on this?

Jerry

Jerry,

Email Mike and he'll set you up. He's looking for someone to take over for him. I'm sure once he's aware of your skills he'll give you the drawings/plans and all the material info.

[Jblk9695]

Jerry,

Email Mike and he'll set you up. He's looking for someone to take over for him. I'm sure once he's aware of your skills he'll give you the drawings/plans and all the material info.

OK, I sent him an email, we'll see what happens.

Thanks
Jerry

[MightyShep]

OK, I sent him an email, we'll see what happens.

Thanks
Jerry
I've got a set of the originals if you need to do some measurements. Just let me know.

[henerythe8th]

I attempted to (prior to reading the entire post) order a set from Mike. I was informed that he is NOT making any more of them. That he had provided the info to someone in the U.S. to "take over" production. Anyone know who? when?
I'd really like to install when I change my chain and sprockets. . .

Do I need to order a new set of "rubbers" too?

Approaching the 15kmile point and got some wear on my '03 V.

Henry

[Redbeard]

I attempted to (prior to reading the entire post) order a set from Mike. I was informed that he is NOT making any more of them. That he had provided the info to someone in the U.S. to "take over" production. Anyone know who? when?
I'd really like to install when I change my chain and sprockets. . .

Do I need to order a new set of "rubbers" too?

Henry

The fellow goes by the alias Richland Rick on the other V-Strom forum. He says he is almost ready to start producing the spacers - you can read about it (and a few of his other offerings) here...

http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=103971564499

As to the rubber cushions - I would. Order them way in advance - sometimes they are hard to get. It would also be a good time to replace your wheel bearings (front and rear) with sealed units.

Take care,
Bob S.

[MonkeyGrass]

Everything Bob just said.

Get the sealed bearings... worth the extra $$. I doubt the new guy is going to include a new dust seal with the spacers like MasterMike did, so plan on one of those, too.

[TomT]

Just saw someone post a set of spacers for sale here: http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=108071095391 if anybody is interested.


Tom



I attempted to (prior to reading the entire post) order a set from Mike. I was informed that he is NOT making any more of them. That he had provided the info to someone in the U.S. to "take over" production. Anyone know who? when?
I'd really like to install when I change my chain and sprockets. . .

Do I need to order a new set of "rubbers" too?

Approaching the 15kmile point and got some wear on my '03 V.

Henry

[henerythe8th]

Diddly-dang-gosh-darn! (trying to maintain my forum correctness)
Someone got in line ahead of me on the spacers . . .

I'll check with "the new spacer guy" soon.

And thanks for the heads up on the sealed bearings!

Source for those?

Yeah, I'm a lazy bass turd . . .

...just figured that if someone had already done the leg work, that I didn't need to stretch mine too much.

[Redbeard]

And thanks for the heads up on the sealed bearings!

Source for those?

Yeah, I'm a lazy bass turd . . .


http://www.amotostuff.com

[wagsy]

Hi
I decided to make some shims out of tin to take up the slack abit inside the hub. I basically put a shim on the outside of each lug that sits in between the hub rubbers

The hub now takes a very firm push/tap to get it onto the wheel and that movement it had before is all but gone.

The results are very good as well..... gear changes and drive smoothness has all improved.

Anyone else done this?