DL650/1000 How To: Replace Absorbers In The "Cush-Drive"

[Black Lab]

Last year, (the 2008 riding season), during one of my typical, weekend trips, I found myself in a campground, just south of La Tuque, Québec, waiting for a rear tire to be delivered from a parts warehouse located in Montréal. The previous day, I had hit a baseball sized piece of "drainage ditch", basalt lying in the road and ended up with a, "pinched", rear tire, sidewall puncture. Through various methods, I was able to limp back to, Camping et Marina Mékinac, inc (http://www.bonjourquebec.com/qc-en/accommodation-directory/campground/camping-panoramique-mekinac_11635640.html).

While I waited for a new rear tire to be delivered from Montréal, I spent my time listening to my French lessons on my mp3 player, writing in my journal, reading (http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=46458) and checking over stuff on my bike. Before leaving on this particular trip, I had read a post on this forum from a rider who had asked the following question: "How do I know when my cush-rubbers are worn out?" In typical, succinct fashion, Greywolf responded with, (paraphrasing), "If the sprocket carrier drops out on its own, then the absorbers are worn."

Remembering this forum exchange, I walked over to the rear wheel of my bike, that was leaning up against a tree, picked it up, with the sprocket side parallel to the ground, and gave the wheel a slight jerk. The sprocket carrier fell immediately to the ground. From what I read into Greywolf's description of how to test for wear on "cush-rubbers", mine were due to be replaced.

Here is a short video illustrating that test.

fr3nt-mMQ2s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr3nt-mMQ2s

The above video was shot this year on October 11, 2009; 30,000+ miles since I did the original test back in 2008 in the campground. Obviously, I wasn't too concerned about what I discovered...........

Note: The following tutorial is being done on a 2007, DL-650. I believe that there are some changes to the 2009 model.

Here are two schematic diagrams of what I will be referring to in this post.

The absorbers, (they are made of rubber), are item #6 in the below diagram.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/OEMPhoto-01.jpg

They fit into the corresponding "pockets" in the hub of the rear wheel.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/OEMPhoto-02.jpg

To do this job, you have to remove the rear wheel. Most of us riders who do our own work on our bikes, (such as replacing chains, sprockets, rear brake pads and changing rear tires), have come up with our own specific way of removing and installing the rear wheel of our bikes. I would like to share my method, (it may inspire some of the newer riders to come up with a method of their own.).

First, you have to get the rear wheel of the bike, up off of the ground. I believe that a centerstand is the first "maintenance category" aftermarket part that should be purchased and installed on your bike.

1- Roll the bike up on to its centerstand.
2- Remove the cotterpin from the axle-bolt. (You may notice that my axle nut is on the left side of my swingarm. This is opposite from the Suzuki OEM setup. I will explain why later.).
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08814.jpg
I have replaced the OEM cotterpin with a larger stainless steel cotterpin. I did this so that the stainless steel metal would resist corrosion better then the OEM steel cotterpin, and also that the stainless pin is a softer metal and will resist metal fatigue, (from bending and unbending from repeated removals and installations). Other riders have found better solutions then the cotterpin. I just haven't made the change yet.

2a- I use two screw drivers to pull the cotterpin out of the axle. If you are concerned about scratching your swingarm, add padding of some sort underneath the blade of the screwdriver that comes in contact with the swingarm.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08815.jpg

2b- Pry up with the screwdriver that you are holding. This technique keeps the cotterpin from flying across your shop area......
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08819.jpg

3- Loosen the rear axle. The wrenches provided in the OEM took kit will work, it's just easier, and you get more leverage with "traditional" wrenches. The OEM nut requires a 15/16" socket.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08822.jpg

4- Using a 5mm allen wrench, loosen the chain adjusters a bit at either end of the swingarm.

5- At this point, I slide a wooden wedge underneath the rear wheel; lifting the weight of the wheel off of the axle.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08829.jpg

6- You can now, very easily, slide the axle out of the swingarm.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08832.jpg

7- I now remove the wooden wedge to let the wheel drop free of the swingarm. Usually, the axle spacers drop out when I do this. If they don't, I reach up and wiggle them out.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08835.jpg

8- Now roll the wheel as far forward as you can until it fetches up against the rear side of the swingarm cross-member. Then remove the chain from the rear sprocket.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08838.jpg

9- You can now remove the rear wheel from your bike.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08841.jpg

Take a break to tend to some possible maintenance that may need to be done.

The sprocket retainer is supposed to be "free floating" on the inboard side of the sprocket carrier. Mine was frozen to the bearing due to water corrosion. I tapped it out using a hammer and screw driver; the plastic handle acting as the "punch".
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08850.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08853.jpg

I cleaned up the sprocket retainer with some Scotchbrite and set it aside for later reassembly.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08854.jpg

10- I used a small wire brush to clean the crud off of the "ears" of the sprocket carrier.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08858.jpg

11- Remove the old absorbers with a screwdriver. There is a "tab" that is molded into the absorber that has to be freed from the hub.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08865.jpg

12- I also used my wire brush to clean up the crud in the cush-housing.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08871.jpg

Here's a photo of the original absorber next to its new replacement. They look exactly the same and I couldn't detect any wear, (smaller size), when comparing the old absorber with the new one.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08872.jpg

13- Use a screwdriver to work the tab of the new absorber into its corresponding hole in the hub.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08879.jpg

14- I placed some grease around the sprocket retainer and slid it back into the sprocket carrier.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08885.jpg

15- I placed my rear wheel, brake disc side down on top of an old boat cushion. Probably a better solution is to place your wheel assembly on top of an old rear tire. This way, the brake disc makes no contact with the ground and doesn't receive any stress when installing the sprocket carrier assembly. I didn't think of doing this at the time....... But, I didn't have any problems either.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08888.jpg

Even though the new absorbers didn't appear to have any difference then the old absorbers, it took quite a bit of pressure to drive the sprocket carrier "home". I was surprised enough at what effort it took to press the carrier into place, that I separated the two just to make sure I didn't have anything misaligned. I didn't.

16- And, I tested the assembly with a couple of good "shakes". The wheel didn't drop away from the sprocket carrier I was holding in my hands.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08890.jpg

Time for reassembly.

First, examine your axle spacers and axle. I cleaned mine up with some Scotchbrite so that I could visually inspect them better. See the grooves in the spacers and axle? I need to replace mine. I will do that before the 2010 season. I gave each a light coating of grease before reassembling them.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08861.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08884.jpg

17- Roll the wheel forward until it hits the swingarm cross-member and place the chain over the rear sprocket.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08892.jpg

18- Reach in and slide the axle spacers into their "home" position. You can't mix them up. They are different sizes. Depending on how you decide to install your rear axle will determine which side of the bike the axle spacers go on.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08895.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08898.jpg

19- Install the rear brake caliper back on its track. Then slide the axle bolt through the swingarm adjuster and the caliper arm to hold the brake caliper in place. This is the reason I mentioned earlier as to why I have flipped around the rear axle. Doing this, has the axle acting as another pair of "hands" to help you hold things into place while installing the rear wheel.

20- From here, I place my wooden wedge on the floor; judging about where the rear wheel needs to be when I roll it backwards, away from the swingarm cross-member. Roll the wheel backwards. Adjust the wedge so that the wheel gets "lifted" up and aligned with the swingarm, chain adjusters.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08900.jpg

21- Push the axle through the swingarm and wheel; out the other side.

22- Install the axle plate, washer and nut and lightly snug down.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2009%20Modifications/Cush%20Rubbers/DSC08827.jpg

23- Adjust your chain to your desired tension. I believe that it is best to adjust a chain while the motorcycle is on its centerstand compared to the Suzuki Owner's Manual method of adjusting the chain tension on the bike's sidestand. By doing this, you are free to rotate the rear wheel to determine where the "tight spot" is of your chain, (New or old chains have "tight spots".). Make your chain adjustment with the chain at its tightest spot. I leave my chain looser then the Suzuki recommendation because, with the bike on its centerstand, there isn't any weight on the swingarm; adding additional tension to the chain. I also often ride on very rough roads and I prefer a "slacker" chain for riding in these conditions.

24- Once the chain is adjusted to your liking and the wheel is aligned properly, tighten down the axle nut and add the cotterpin to finish things up.

ATTENTION!!!! BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, PUMP THE REAR FOOTBRAKE PEDDLE SEVERAL TIMES TO RETURN THE BRAKE CALIPER TO ITS PROPER FUNCTIONING POSITION!!!! (Not doing so is an adrenaline experience the first time you go to use your rear brake after doing this job.)

Go Ride!

B.

[dtalk]

Nicely documented. I would suggest spraying those rubber cushions down with silicone (I use Honda silicone spray on all rubber parts) before insertion ... would probably make both the tab insertion and sprocket reinsertion much easier, as well as possibly helping to prolong their life.

Cheers -d

[Stalky Tracker]

Excellent post and "how to".

[coral_snake]

I don't know if it matters, but I noticed in your excellent pictures that your rear axel was in from the wrong side.

[greywolf]

I don't know if it matters, but I noticed in your excellent pictures that your rear axel was in from the wrong side.Different, better, alternate maybe, but not wrong. Turning it around makes it easier to line the parts up.

[chris swann]

i recomend changeing the cush rubbers in time . i had a yamaha XT 550 in which the hub of the wheel became worn out and even new cush rubbers would not remove the slop , the rubbers had worn away the material in the pie shaped area where they sit. my only fix was to shim the worn area between the rubbers and the hub with aluminum [a beer can cut open ]

[Black Lab]

I don't know if it matters, but I noticed in your excellent pictures that your rear axel was in from the wrong side.

Don't just look at the photos; please do some of the included reading.

2- Remove the cotterpin from the axle-bolt. (You may notice that my axle nut is on the left side of my swingarm. This is opposite from the Suzuki OEM setup. I will explain why later.).

18- Reach in and slide the axle spacers into their "home" position. You can't mix them up. They are different sizes. Depending on how you decide to install your rear axle will determine which side of the bike the axle spacers go on.

19- Install the rear brake caliper back on its track. Then slide the axle bolt through the swingarm adjuster and the caliper arm to hold the brake caliper in place. This is the reason I mentioned earlier as to why I have flipped around the rear axle. Doing this, has the axle acting as another pair of "hands" to help you hold things into place while installing the rear wheel.

[dtalk]

Different, better, alternate maybe, but not wrong. Turning it around makes it easier to line the parts up.

I thought about doing that, but I was concerned that the bike might run backwards.

[XLonDL650]

Another excellent post by Black Lab.

[soda55]

Terrific writeup. Can it be made into a sticky?

[dancer]

With excellent photos, as usual! Thanks!

(Lemme see if I can get away with this: PEDAL)

[Skinnifatkid]

Black Lab, Already said, great post. Good pics. When I swapped my rear tire this summer, I could have used this to correct the "cush-bumpers" from having let go so easily. There was no way that I could hold the sprocket with the weight of the wheel. I will be referring to this agian in the spring after I buy the parts...where did you pruchase yours from? :confused:

Thanks :thumbup:

[Black Lab]

Black Lab, Already said, great post. Good pics. When I swapped my rear tire this summer, I could have used this to correct the "cush-bumpers" from having let go so easily. There was no way that I could hold the sprocket with the weight of the wheel. I will be referring to this agian in the spring after I buy the parts...where did you pruchase yours from? :confused:

Thanks :thumbup:

This time, I purchased them from my dealer. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. There are many, many online sites that sell OEM parts. All of these sites have microfiche diagrams for you to look at to determine what you need to purchase to get your job done.

Nearly always, the parts that I purchase from my dealer are more expensive then the prices I can purchase them for online. But, when you factor in shipping costs and usually a longer waiting time for the online site, (unless you pay the premium prices for expedited shipping), it ends up being as cheap or cheaper for me to buy my parts from my local dealer. Besides, they've been pretty good to me and I like to keep the relationship strong.

My dealer has an online "Parts Finder" that I use and place my order that way.

Here's an example: Friend and Friend (http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/friendfriend/Suzuki_OEM/SuzukiMC.asp?Type=12&A=372)

[FireDog45]

+1 on the local dealer. The one thing I don't like is that mine requires payment before ordering which usually meant 2 trips, one to pay and one to pick up. My local dealer has since added an online store with in-store pick up as an option instead of shipping. I went this route when ordering my new cush drive pieces this past weekend since this ended up being the lowest overall cost.

If you haven't been to your local dealer's site lately, this option may now be available. Worth a look...

[kenneth_moore]

A timely post Mr. Lab, I have a sprocket and chain set arriving shortly, and thought renewing the cush drive whilst doing that would be a good idea.

I just looked at Bike Bandit; the biscuits look to be about $8 each, but how many are needed? From the schematic it looks like 5, but I can't tell for sure.

Thanks for sharing!

[tmcgee]

It's five.

[Black Lab]

Yup, it's five.

It would be interesting though, if your local dealer has a web site, see if they have an online "parts finder" and compare the prices that you find there, with B.B.s prices along with their shipping and handling costs.

B.

[jccc]

Nice write up and pics.:thumbup:

And good idea about putting the rear axle in from the right side, the rear caliper can be a PITA, that definitely looks like it will make things easier.

[kenneth_moore]

Yup, it's five.

It would be interesting though, if your local dealer has a web site, see if they have an online "parts finder" and compare the prices that you find there, with B.B.s prices along with their shipping and handling costs.

B.

Actually I do pretty much what you do: use BBandit et.al. to locate the part numbers, then call nearby Riva Motorsports and order over the phone. They take my Visa debit on the phone, so I only have to make one trip. Like you said, by the time I add shipping it's usually the same price as online. And, the turnaround time is excellent, if I order the buscuits today, they should be here Friday for weekend installation.

[Skinnifatkid]

I understand the "keeping the dealer" relationship thing. My parts department here is really good and Erica, the girl I try to deal with, is awesome to work with. My issue with them I guess is if they don't have a part or ie- 12v accessory adaptor, they had no suggestions or "go see this shop, they might be able to help you out".

I order on line for a few reasons,
- Availability
- cost; US vs Cdn
- ease in finding it

Regardless, I'm using this thread to swap my Cush bumpers this spring.
Thanks for putting it together.

It's not something I would have thought as needing replacement.

[Black Lab]

Actually I do pretty much what you do: use BBandit et.al. to locate the part numbers, then call nearby Riva Motorsports and order over the phone. They take my Visa debit on the phone, so I only have to make one trip. Like you said, by the time I add shipping it's usually the same price as online. And, the turnaround time is excellent, if I order the buscuits today, they should be here Friday for weekend installation.

What's really nice about my dealer is, I can order my parts, either in person, or over the phone and I pay for it when I pick it up. They are that good to me!!!!

(The have also offered a loaner bike to me when and if my bike has to be in their shop for repairs.)

A special group of people.

[Skinnifatkid]

Kept the relationship going. $11+ and ordered 5. Under $60 bucks for them, something to do this spring, bike shop makes money, I get security. Good to go.

Thanks for the post. :thumbup:

[Sprocket]

18- Reach in and slide the axle spacers into their "home" position. You can't mix them up. They are different sizes. Depending on how you decide to install your rear axle will determine which side of the bike the axle spacers go on.

Really?

I don't understand why the left/right position of the spacers would be affected by how you install the axle.

Aren't the spacers different sizes because they bear on different size bearings? (Cush drive bearing is larger.)

Can you explain this a bit more?

Great tutorial! Thanks.

[greywolf]

True. The spacers do not vary from the stock position regardless of which side is used to insert the axle.