Valve clearance adjustment poll for those who have done it or had it done

[greywolf]

Please do not take the poll if your bike has never had a valve clearance check. Those who have had more than one bike can vote for each if I set this thing up right. They have to have different answers though. I saw no way to choose the same answer twice unless you have somebody ineligible vote for your second answer.

[LordSmoke]

The dealer declined when I requested the first one. I did it myself a few months ago at about 28k. Still in spec, so it must have been in spec had the first one been done. I chose 2 with no adjustment needed.

[greywolf]

28k. Still in spec, so it must have been in spec had the first one been done. I chose 2 with no adjustment needed.Good choice. Maybe mileage rather than assuming 14,500 miles per adjustment would have been a better poll setup.

[Dirt_Dad]

I only had to adjust 7 of 8 valves on the Vee. All were put into spec, but only 2 ended up on the loose side of the spec. I'm curious what I'll find next time.

[roger123]

I did my first check at 24K and had to adjust one exhaust (it was AT the spec so I guess technically it was still in spec). At 39K now and will do the next one this fall when it cools off some.

[Scarlett Harlot]

Put the feeler gauge to mine about a month ago and the exhaust valves are on the tight side but in spec. I'll check them again over the winter and fiddle with them if necessary. The one upside is that two 1000 riders(who will remain nameless) who stated they would never check their valves or would only trust this to a professional saw that an 8 thumbed mechanical newb was able to pull this off and checked their valves. Both bikes had valves out of spec and were adjusted by their owners.

[jackpiner57]

At the first check (14,800 mi.) , I had one tight exhaust valve. Adjustment needed.

At the second check (35,400 mi.), the other 3 exhaust valves were tight. Adjustment needed.

[greywolf]

At the first check (14,800 mi.) , I had one tight exhaust valve. Adjustment needed.

At the second check (35,400 mi.), the other 3 exhaust valves were tight. Adjustment needed.That's why if you have to take out a cam, adjust both valves to the middle to high end of the spec. In fact, I'd go for all the valves in that cylinder because the cam chain has to be loosened and reset anyway.

[Stromin'Nroman]

Great idea for a poll.

The dealer did both my valve checks.

[greywolf]

It looks like 32 650s and 19 1000s so far. I'll bet the great majority of bikes out there haven't been checked yet.

[TheTwins]

For what its worth:

On both my initial (11,000 miles) and second (20,000 miles) valve clearance inspection, the clearance checks resulted in the same values....both intake & exhaust, on both cylinders, close to the tight end of the spec. Not out of spec, but on the tight end.

The point is that the values did not change from the initial to the second inspection. I'm very curious to see what they read at the third inspection.

[greywolf]

I had the same experience. Most of mine are at the tight half of the spec. The only change using a go/no go method was one exhaust valve on the third inspection that changed less than .001" tighter but still nearer the middle than the lower end of the spec. The tightest valve was a rear intake that cleared .004" but not .005". It has been like that through three checks now.

[aldntn]

My guess is that Suzuki builds toward to low end of the spec so the valves will be quiet on the showroom floor; they'll stay in spec through the warranty period as well. If Suzuki built to the high end of the spec: probably no adjustment needed for 100KMi. But, then, that doesn't help make the sale.

[Austin44]

My guess is that Suzuki builds toward to low end of the spec so the valves will be
quiet on the showroom floor; they'll stay in spec through the warranty period as well.

Low or middle, my K2 was built with precision. I finally did the check at 24,000 miles this June.

Three intakes had 2.75 shims, one had 2.72. Three exhaust had 2.90, one exhaust had 2.88 shim.
I'd call that fussy adjustment at the factory, since retail shims are only available to the nearest .05mm.

The 2.72 intake and 2.88 exhaust were barely at minimum. Both needed 2 sizes down (2.65, 2.80)
to get to high end of spec., the rest just one size down (3@2.70, 3@2.85).

I figure my K2 is set for life, given the small amount of wear in 24,000 miles including break-in.

I'll check again about 50,000...just to be sure.

[thecdn]

It looks like 32 650s and 19 1000s so far. I'll bet the great majority of bikes out there haven't been checked yet.

My 04 Wee with 21k + miles hasn't been checked yet. I'm not confident I could do it properly and my steering bearings are slowly going so that will be the next major job to be done.

I wish I was as handy mechanically as some of the people on this forum.

[FireDog45]

Vee; checked it a little late (around 18K IIRC) all within spec but 1 exhaust near the tight end. Will probably adjust all at the next interval.

[garandman]

So as of this time, 62% of DL650 owners have gone through one or more checks without needing adjustment.

[pvwheeler]

Did my 24000km check yesterday,one intake and one exhaust out of spec,and one more exhaust valve on the bottom end.Adjusted all the exhaust valves while I was in there to 9-10 thou...
hopefully next time will be just a check..;)

[Wamphyri*DFR*]

Doing my first adjustment at 18k miles. All valves on the rear cylinder were in the middle of spec. The front had one intake that was .03mm too tight the other was on the tight side of spec at .12mm. Both exhausts were on the tight side as well at .22mm. I went ahead and shims for all four to put them at the upper end of the range. Just waiting on shims to arrive.

The two senior mechanics at my local dealer and are friends so I had them look at my measurements and the shims i was ordering for adjustment and they both said to put 'em at the upper end of the range to be safe and negate the need another adjustment for a loooooooooong time. Couldn't pin them down to mileage estimate though. CYA, I suppose.

I'll be putting in a new air filter, plugs, coolant, chain, sprockets, brake and clutch fluid change as well.

On a side note: When taking off the Givi crash bars I found out that where the bar mounts in the frame below the fuel tank was broken all the way around the weld.http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc116/jhtarh2o/Givicrashbar.jpg Couldn't tell until it was taken off the bike. I'm guessing it was a result of this ride. http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=28524&highlight=demagnetizing
I can't complain. They did their job. I'm just going to have it re-welded. Since there are scratches on both sides I'll have 'em both bead blasted and coated with Line-X. Debating on having all the plastics Line-X'ed at the same time.

[steve68steve]

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc116/jhtarh2o/Givicrashbar.jpg ...

I can't complain. They did their job. ....

My left side Givi bar looks EXACTLY like that. I just discovered it the last time I rode, and it's never been down. I've had the bars off (to do my valve adjustment, in fact), and they were intact then, so the weld failed just from vibration or temperature cycling since then. They're still installed, but I noticed a shiny area around the weld. Upon further inspection, I noticed I can pull the whole bar away from the flange. $^*#@!

Low or middle, my K2 was built with precision. I finally did the check at 24,000 miles this June.

Three intakes had 2.75 shims, one had 2.72. Three exhaust had 2.90, one exhaust had 2.88 shim.
I'd call that fussy adjustment at the factory, since retail shims are only available to the nearest .05mm.
My K5 was like that, too. A little surprising to find such discrete sizes in there when they're not available in the kit.
FWIW, my local dealer had a box with a cubby for each increment in size, and the 270 -280 compartments were overflowing with used shims (they'll take old ones in trade) while others where nearly empty. That suggests to me that most bikes use the same sizes and the manufacturing control is pretty tight.
Upon picking thru, I noticed they were mostly odd sizes, too - not in .05mm increments - suggesting Suzuki expects them to fall in this range and makes more sizes between 270 and 285.

[water warrior]

First and only check at 38,000 kms(23,560 miles). All valves were right in the middle of the adjustment range. Can't complain about that. Done at a dealer who will not be visited again due to other issues.

[greywolf]

If you don't trust the dealer, I'd think twice about believing the valve check was actually done. The usual experience is the valves are at the narrow end of the range. It is believed Suzuki either sets them in the middle when new and the initial bedding in moves them there or they are set at the tight end to keep them quiet. Also, variance in the range is typical. All the clearances in the middle sounds fishy to me.

[jspoon]

At about 14,000 m my 08 wee was within spec done by an idependant m/c mechanic that's been fixing bike since the 60's

[greywolf]

At about 14,000 m my 08 wee was within spec done by an idependant m/c mechanic that's been fixing bike since the 60'sThat is the most popular answer by 650 owners. All clearances in the middle of the range is something else again.

[Dirt_Dad]

That is the most popular answer by 650 owners.

I'm counting on it being the case when I open up the Wee in the next couple of weeks. I don't have a good understanding of the cam chain tensioner, so if it's not in specs I'll be heading off to the dealer. :thumbdown:

[Highveelocity]

My Bike was very noisy and ran rough, I bought it with 2300 miles on it. I checked the valves at 7,500 and found 5 valves that were tight, but still within specs. I loosened them up by .001 and the noises went away and it's running much smoother. It has 20,000 on it now and haven't checked them again.

[water warrior]

If you don't trust the dealer, I'd think twice about believing the valve check was actually done. The usual experience is the valves are at the narrow end of the range. It is believed Suzuki either sets them in the middle when new and the initial bedding in moves them there or they are set at the tight end to keep them quiet. Also, variance in the range is typical. All the clearances in the middle sounds fishy to me.

Just when I'd finally got over the frustration of dealing with those clowns. Here's hoping he did more than just tear out the added wiring for farkles inside the fairing. Think I'll take a closer look for tool marks and such.

[limobob]

Im on the the "no adjustments/checks ever" schedule. 78K miles now. I would be interested to know if anybody has ever found an adjustment way BELOW the tight side of spec. on a high mileage bike. To me, a check on the tight side of tolerance range is no reason to disturb anything. My 78 KZ 650 had one on the tight side, and it stayed there thru 3 checks, (30K) total. Someone posted a thought that the majority of Stroms have never been checked, I tend to agree. My 2c.

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[greywolf]

spam reported

[Motorpsycho Jim]

one check one adjustment @ 62.3k . five out of 8 needed adjust.

[Jstrom]

The dealer declined when I requested the first one. I did it myself a few months ago at about 28k. Still in spec, so it must have been in spec had the first one been done. I chose 2 with no adjustment needed.
The dealer declined? What kind of lame ass outfit is it? I do my own (motorcycle service tech - 30 yrs exp.)

[enumclaw]

Just checked them for a second time, at 25,386. I responded to the poll initially. This the result from 14,500:

Front
Left Right
Intake 0.005"->0.006" 0.006"->0.007"
Exhaust 0.010" 0.010"

Rear
Left Right
Intake 0.005"->0.006" 0.005"->0.006"
Exhaust 0.010" 0.009"->0.010"

and this is from today:

Front
Left Right
Intake 0.005"->0.006" 0.006""
Exhaust 0.009" 0.009"

Rear
Left Right
Intake 0.005"" 0.005""
Exhaust 0.009" 0.008"->0.009"

So things are still looking okay. A little tightening, but not much. I'd rather they were more toward the middle, but still within spec after 25k miles is great. I have about a 5k mile trip in a little less than a month, and I'm going to leave them as they are. I am thinking when 40k rolls around I will be making some adjustments, and will put everything to the looser end of the spec and that time.

Oh, I guess I should change my signature, but this is an '07 650 ABS.

[Columbo]

I checked "no adjustment required" at 15,000 miles because all clearances were within spec. But they were at or near the minimum. So I adjusted each one of them to exactly the maximum clearance, with the theory that I will never have to check or adjust them again.

[cbrxxcess]

I did my 2007 today and three of the valves needed to be shimmed. One Exhaust and two intakes. Both of the intakes were at .0025 and the Exhaust was at .006. I shimmed the intakes to .0055 and the exhaust to .009. This was at 15,035 miles. I will do my wifes 06 next week.

[Dirty Dog]

It looks like 32 650s and 19 1000s so far. I'll bet the great majority of bikes out there haven't been checked yet.

Hey Buddy, i havenet visited with you in at least a year.....i have gotten a lot of good advice from you and thanks for it all. i have done alot to this bike, improvements, probably 6-7 torrences, 2 sets chain sprockets, one set bakes, lotsa oil/filters and she is still running fine. did the speedo hearler and speedometer face plate change so mileage and mph are reading correct. also did the "tre" which made the bike way more fun to ride !

question or comment for you tho is i have never checked the valves...at all....63,000 M
ILES not KM.... still seems to be running fine. i see your pole and wonder what your opinion on my bike is...I am going to chek the valves for clearances today....

what is the longest mileage you have seen with guys that do check valves and dont need to adjust. have you ever heard of anyone having a burned valve or anything really bad happening.

there is a lot of history floating around out there and you are doing a good job of trying to get your arms around it. I am very curious as to what the most recorded miles you or anybody has seen on one of these. this 05 is my second on, the 02 i had was in the 20k range when i updated to this one.

how amny miles on yorus now? gotta be uo there. hope this note finds you in good health and having fun, D'dog

[greywolf]

I only remember a couple of valve problems reported. I'm around 47,500 miles at this point. There have been a number of bikes with over 100,000 miles.

[Dirty Dog]

I only remember a couple of valve problems reported. I'm around 47,500 miles at this point. There have been a number of bikes with over 100,000 miles.

Ok, got the rears checked...remember they 63,000 miles and this is the first time valve check.
intakes = .004 and .006, ex = .014 and .008.

I read that JUST to check the fronts, I dont have to remove the radiator how in the heck do you do that? I cant get anywhere close enuff room to get in and get the valve cover off. the rad bolts are off but the shroud is in the way. what tricks are there to get room in there.

i have searched but found nothing that helps. Any ideas or any links that might help?

[greywolf]

It's interesting you have an exhaust valve that is too loose. They normally tighten up as they wear. I've always taken the radiator off to check.

[cbrxxcess]

I read that JUST to check the fronts, I dont have to remove the radiator how in the heck do you do that?

i have searched but found nothing that helps. Any ideas or any links that might help?

Good luck with that I would just take it off. It is a great opportunity to get the antifreeze changed and also get to check that all of your your hose clamps are tight and in good shape.

The problem you may also face trying to fuss with a valve adjustment with the radiator in place is that you could do some damage to the radiator while trying to get the cover off.

[toycloser]

Like always, I am late to the party. I just checked my valves for the first time. My bike only has 47,000 miles on her but I checked them anyway:green_lol: Three of the four were .178 and one was .012. I was surprised to find the shims different sizes. Three of them 298 and one 302 (yes this was the tightest one). I replaced them all with 290s and she is running like a dream.:hurray:

Oh ya, did you guys know the sproket cushin should hold in the sprocket carrier? :confused: I thought it was supposed to fall out every time I removed the wheel.:thumbup:

[Dirty Dog]

Like always, I am late to the party. I just checked my valves for the first time. My bike only has 47,000 miles on her but I checked them anyway:green_lol: Three of the four were .178 and one was .012. I was surprised to find the shims different sizes. Three of them 298 and one 302 (yes this was the tightest one). I replaced them all with 290s and she is running like a dream.:hurray:

Oh ya, did you guys know the sproket cushin should hold in the sprocket carrier? :confused: I thought it was supposed to fall out every time I removed the wheel.:thumbup:

Good to hear from you and being a rider with 47,000 miles....650 or 1000? the valve you checked...front or rear cylinder? 3 = .178...wow, would seem really noisie and one was .012, intake or exhaust?
What did the other 4 valves read?
I am not familiar with the cushion thing and just never thought about it. some dual sport and older bikes, the sprocket cushion drive does come out....is this not right for our tuff old Wart Hog Vstroms?
Any other tips for me and my 63,000 babie and do it all bike? mine is the 1000 and am not sure if i would get another 1000 or just get the Wee ?
ANOTHER Tip:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=43005

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