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View Full Version : Givi engine guards thread chasing tip


Mercenary
05-17-2009, 06:43 AM
This may have been touched on but I didn't see this little deal I figured out so,...

First when installing the bars, use a 8x1.25mm tap to chase the threads in the end of both bars. This is the end you have to bolt the engine brace bracket to. This will help alleviate a problem that some times happens where the bolt inside the bar breaks loose and then starts spinning.

Second, you want to chase the holes in the frame to clean out factory thread lock. There is a lot of it. I found the easiest way to do this is to remove ONE bolt, then chase the threads and install a new bolt. Then do the next one till you have all 4 done on one side. You can probably do both sides if you wish. Then remove the 4 bolts to install the bars. If you take out all the bolts and then start to chase the threads, the engine brace may have slipped a little making it difficult to line up the brace and hole to chase. This is what happened to me.

Chasing the threads, don't use any cutting oil, start the tap with your fingers and work it back and forth (turn CW then CCW like from 12 to 3 o'clock, then 3 to 6...) run it all the way in. Blow out hole with compressed air, clean crap off engine as well.

I had to loosen the big nut in the center of the brace to get everything to line back up. I don't know what the torque spec is for that, maybe someone else could post.

I wonder if we can start a WIKI and associate it with this site?

xen
05-17-2009, 11:53 AM
I had to loosen the big nut in the center of the brace to get everything to line back up. I don't know what the torque spec is for that, maybe someone else could post.

I wonder if we can start a WIKI and associate it with this site?

If it's the bolt I think your describing, and I'm reading the diagram right, it's 75N-m, 7.5cgf-m, 54ft-lb.

One of my Givi bar end caps broke loose too. Had to try again the next day after buying a tap, cleaning all the red loctite out of the threads, and finding a way to hold the nut so it wouldn't spin. Luckily I didn't have to mess with that major bolt. Only did one side at a time and had the weight supported.

I never got a replacement, because once mounted up the plate of course won't spin, and it will hold just as tight as before. There was no wiggle.

Yuros
06-27-2009, 10:15 AM
When I tapped my threads this morning, as described above, I got quite a lot of factory thread wax but also a bit of metal dust and a couple of curly metal shavings. Is that something I should worry about?
I used 8.125 thread tap and never forced it beyond finger pressure. The screws went back in OK, i just hope I haven't weakened the thread in some way.

Also, with regard to that long center bolt, can someone confirm the torque setting for it? I am installing SW Motech bars (switched from Givis) and they require removal of that long bolt that runs through the engine mount. As previous poster suggested it's 54ft-lbs seems a bit high. Considering the 4 little engine mount bolts are only 16.5....:confused:
Thanks!

greywolf
06-27-2009, 12:09 PM
67.5lb-ft and 25.5lb-ft Are the manual specs for those parts. I think 25.5 is way high myself. 54 and 16.5 seem about right.