MightyShep
05-16-2009, 08:16 PM
DL1000 Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild:
Tools Required:
* 8mm wrench
* 10mm Wrench
* 12 mm wrench
* Long nosed snap ring pliers
* needle nose pliers
* Copiuos amounts of brake fluid
* Brake cleaner
After about 54K miles of LA traffic I thought it might be good for the old Strom to rebuild the clutch master cylinder.
Bear in mind that it was functioning normally and did not need replacement but I felt after the 100's of thousands of clutch pulls done here
it couldn't hurt to freshen up the seals a little bit.
First step is to loosen the banjo bolt that holds the hose to the master cylinder. Do this before you remove the 8mm bolts that hold
the lever and cylinder to the handle bars. Once you've loosened the banjo bolt go ahead and remove the two 8mm bolts
that hold the assembly to the bars.
At this point you will need to disconncet the spade terminals that are connected to the cut-off switch for the clutch. Once everything is removed
you can go to a more comfortable workspace to do the rest of this procedure.
Remove the top screw that holds the hand guard to the lever assembly and remove it (the guard). Then there are two 10mm nuts on the bottom
that require removal, do that now.
Once the bottom nuts are removed, it's time for the bolt that holds the clutch lever in place to be reomved.
After all the hardware is removed and you have the master cylinder housing it's time for the removal of the dust cover. This is held in place
by friction so you'll need to tug it out with the needle nose pliesr. This can seem a little scary if you're not sure whats under there, but go ahead and pull it out.
Don't yank, but rather apply increasing levels of opposite force until you see it starting to move. Firm but gentle, if you know what I mean.
After removing the dust cover you will be able to see the snap ring that holds the master cylinder parts in place. If you have a stubby set of snap ring pliers they may not reach
inside. This may be the excuse you've needed to go to your favorite tool store and get a new one.
Here's a look at how the parts go inside the housing.
After removing the old parts this should be real easy since you did it with care, and didn't let the spring shoot all your parts into the nether regions. (You didn't do that, did you?)
Here are some shots of the reassembly process.
Spring first. Large diameter end goes in first
seal sticks onto the small diameter end of the spring. put a little brake fluid on the seal to help it go into the housing
After the spring/seal comes the piston and the washer
Once all this is in place it's time to insert the snap ring. You will need to push on the piston as you install the snap ring. Good mechanics can do this with the snap ring itself, but if you're having trouble you can use a pencil.
Dust cap goes on last. This needs to be pushed down into the housing. I used a small flat bladed screw driver and carefully pushed the sealing sufrace down until it was in place. Do this carefully.
After it is reassmebled intall it back on the back, reconnect the hose to the master cylinder and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. You will
need to bleed the system of air after reassembly.
that's pretty much it.
Tools Required:
* 8mm wrench
* 10mm Wrench
* 12 mm wrench
* Long nosed snap ring pliers
* needle nose pliers
* Copiuos amounts of brake fluid
* Brake cleaner
After about 54K miles of LA traffic I thought it might be good for the old Strom to rebuild the clutch master cylinder.
Bear in mind that it was functioning normally and did not need replacement but I felt after the 100's of thousands of clutch pulls done here
it couldn't hurt to freshen up the seals a little bit.
First step is to loosen the banjo bolt that holds the hose to the master cylinder. Do this before you remove the 8mm bolts that hold
the lever and cylinder to the handle bars. Once you've loosened the banjo bolt go ahead and remove the two 8mm bolts
that hold the assembly to the bars.
At this point you will need to disconncet the spade terminals that are connected to the cut-off switch for the clutch. Once everything is removed
you can go to a more comfortable workspace to do the rest of this procedure.
Remove the top screw that holds the hand guard to the lever assembly and remove it (the guard). Then there are two 10mm nuts on the bottom
that require removal, do that now.
Once the bottom nuts are removed, it's time for the bolt that holds the clutch lever in place to be reomved.
After all the hardware is removed and you have the master cylinder housing it's time for the removal of the dust cover. This is held in place
by friction so you'll need to tug it out with the needle nose pliesr. This can seem a little scary if you're not sure whats under there, but go ahead and pull it out.
Don't yank, but rather apply increasing levels of opposite force until you see it starting to move. Firm but gentle, if you know what I mean.
After removing the dust cover you will be able to see the snap ring that holds the master cylinder parts in place. If you have a stubby set of snap ring pliers they may not reach
inside. This may be the excuse you've needed to go to your favorite tool store and get a new one.
Here's a look at how the parts go inside the housing.
After removing the old parts this should be real easy since you did it with care, and didn't let the spring shoot all your parts into the nether regions. (You didn't do that, did you?)
Here are some shots of the reassembly process.
Spring first. Large diameter end goes in first
seal sticks onto the small diameter end of the spring. put a little brake fluid on the seal to help it go into the housing
After the spring/seal comes the piston and the washer
Once all this is in place it's time to insert the snap ring. You will need to push on the piston as you install the snap ring. Good mechanics can do this with the snap ring itself, but if you're having trouble you can use a pencil.
Dust cap goes on last. This needs to be pushed down into the housing. I used a small flat bladed screw driver and carefully pushed the sealing sufrace down until it was in place. Do this carefully.
After it is reassmebled intall it back on the back, reconnect the hose to the master cylinder and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. You will
need to bleed the system of air after reassembly.
that's pretty much it.