offroute
03-03-2006, 02:52 PM
Our first dualsport trip to Death Valley. Two 650 V-Stroms and one KTM 950 meet up in Furnace Creek for our first day of adventure riding. I'm on one V-Strom, my 69 year old Dad is on the other. Bill rides his new KTM. Leaving around 9 am we quickly make our way up to Dante's View.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5651.jpg
Nice turns up and down the last three or four miles to the top. We head back down to do our first bit of dirt, turning right onto the Greenwater Road heading south. I'm getting the feel for the Strom on a mixed surface, but it's mostly hard and forgiving and fast. The views all around are gorgeous and it feels like we're the only ones on earth.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5652.jpg
Sand and pea gravel take us by surprise as we near the end of the 30 mile stretch. We've been traveling fast with the KTM in the lead. Whoa...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5653.jpg
Both V-Stroms are soon dropped as the sand surprises us. Bill on the KTM escapes the drop, but the tire tracks I've been following make wild gyrations.
Hitting the pavement we head quickly to Shoshone for gas and snacks. Leaving around 12 noon we decide to head over Jubilee Pass and into the valley for more exploring. I suggest we head up toward Mengel Pass and see how it goes. No real plan. It's now somewhere around 1 pm.
A few miles of rocky washboard as we climb up toward Warm Springs Canyon. Once we're in, things begin to change. Narrow at times, lots of sand in the wash, and rocks. Although new to these bikes, Bill and I both have considerable dirt experience. Willyvee however, has had little time on dirt.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5661.jpg
The spirit is there, but things start to get tough. We push on and a few more drops occur. Now we're talking about turning around. Willyvee wants to push on hoping it eases a little. He's not real excited about riding back down the wash. Things open up as we reach the openess of Butte Valley Rd. Speeds increase, sand is less, but the sharp rock are everywhere. One clips the wires of my side stand safety switch and my bike goes dead. Hardwired together with some twisting and tape and we're soon on our way again. Hey, it's getting late, but we can see the pass...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5657.jpg
Willyvee is really starting to fatigue. Some of the drops are more like crashes and in a least one drop his leg is pinned. We'd been told the crux is at the pass and we're almost there. Seems too late to turn around. But now it looks like we've got a new thing to contend with. After one drop, Willyvee's bike is smoking like a coal fired locomotive. Has he broken a ring? The bike seems to be running ok. We need to push on, it's getting late! Willyvee is incredibly drained and Bill and I have done more weight lifting in the last few hours than in the preceding few years. We're all looking at each other, but it's a long way back down. Surely we're almost there. But the question now is, is this Willyvee or "Willycrash" again? The poor guy doesn't have the strength to deal, and yes, I'm the son that took him here. What did he do to me to deserve this? Sorry Dad.
Bill and I start to ride his bike on the harder sections to give him a break and we make it to the crux. None of us can ride it. In fact, we can make a run at the beginning of a 10 yard section, but have to be "caught" by the others in a precarious state. We yo-yo three bikes this way, but lots of time goes by.
Finally we're to the pass. Officially known as Mengel, we have rechristened it Mangle Pass. Willyvee is totally spent, but we've still got some light and the knowledge that Goler Canyon has just been graded by the county to the park boundary. We can ride that by headlight... or so we think. Notice no pictures here. Heavy twilight and in the darkness we make a critical mistake, not seeing a descending sharp left hand turn. What's in front of us now is a sweeping climb to the top of a hill. The whole thing is rutted deeply rutted and slick, but Bill quickly makes it to the top. I look at dear old Dad and say something like "keep your speed up, follow me and ride it without hesitation." Willyvee musters up everything he has, but just feet from the top he falls again and the bike is nearly upside down in the rut. We have to spin it just to lift it. Once on top we're now in pitch black and face a steep marble filled ride down the other side. Of course it's turning dark, so headlights only allow you to see a little at a time. Nevertheless, we creep and skid all three bikes down without mishap. Shit, we're at a dead-end. Bill, guns the KTM back up the hill and all I hear is a loud bang. Bill has finally dropped the KTM for the first time. Working together we finally get it on top. Some sense finally overcomes us. The call is made...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5658.jpg
At least we're well prepared. No sleeping bags, no shelter, hell, we've even run out of water. Time to sleep in helmets at 4000 feet in February. We walk around looking for a soft spot to lay in our riding clothes. Of course, the sand we found in abundance before is completely absent now...
The night goes slowly by. Bill says snoring is hereditary. But I can't believe I've slept a wink.
We're begging for sunrise and soon the sun starts to brighten. We all look beat. Yet now, two v-Stroms have to make it up this hill we rode (slid) down last night. I got us here, so I offer to ride it first. My condition is that I get to use Willyvee's bike before my own. It's been designated as the official "crash bike". Sans two turn indicators, half a clutch lever, a bent rear brake and shift lever and a gaping hole in the rear cowl.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5660.jpg
I scout the run up a couple times before making my first attempt. Bill and Willyvee wait near the top where last night's loud bang emanated from the KTM. Luckily, both bikes make it up top without incident. Now back down the rutted other side. Don't touch those brakes too hard or you'll end up in Willyvee's rut. We make it!
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5659.jpg
It's maybe 6:30 am. All three bikes are running. And all three of use are walking with no real damage. The first mile or so is still a little tough so we relieve Willyvee with a couple yo-yo turns. Soon we're at the graded portion of the wash and it is absolutely beautiful...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5662.jpg
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5664.jpg
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5665.jpg
Willyvee is exhausted, but intrepid. I feel the elation of having a life experience with my father, but feel guilt for getting him there in the first place. It's a mixed bag and I am impressed. The guy never gives up.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5669.jpg
Willyvee emerges from Goler Canyon. A 650 V-Strom, Tourance tires, and no real dirt experience. I see my Dad as my hero.
From the mouth of Goler it's an easy ride on miles of dirt to the town of Ballarat. Along the way we come across a lone van parked in the middle of nowhere. A dirt bike is outside and we meet Mark from Ohio. Generous as can be, he brings out water bottle after water bottle. It feels like a band of brothers and we've just met him. Adventure riders are a unique crowd and I think each of us feels that as we guzzle the precious liquid. Thanking him as we leave, I wonder about how his adventures will unfold out here on his own.
We arrive at Ballarat and are greated by the only resident and caretaker. I'm starting to question - is this guy normal or are we the ones that have gone a little off....
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5671.jpg
Two dollar cold drinks and we're starting to unwind. We need some food. Soon we've hit the pavement. I've got a vision of big fat burgers in Panamint Springs.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5672.jpg
So here we are. Father and son. A day and a half later, but what seems like a lifetime. I'm still not sure whether to apologize or rejoice and thank him for for this incredible experience that all of us will remember to our graves. Without Bill, we would have never made it.
No need for lectures. We already know we broke every rule. And of course we did it with no style.
This ride report is about more than that...
For a complete detailed description of my entire trip across the Sierra, down to Death Valley, and back, go here:
GPXchange.com (http://www.gpxchange.com/fileinfo/index.asp?ID=102108&return=home)
Once there you'll find buttons at the top of the page that take you to all the photos and an interactive map where you can view each part of the route in detail.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5651.jpg
Nice turns up and down the last three or four miles to the top. We head back down to do our first bit of dirt, turning right onto the Greenwater Road heading south. I'm getting the feel for the Strom on a mixed surface, but it's mostly hard and forgiving and fast. The views all around are gorgeous and it feels like we're the only ones on earth.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5652.jpg
Sand and pea gravel take us by surprise as we near the end of the 30 mile stretch. We've been traveling fast with the KTM in the lead. Whoa...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5653.jpg
Both V-Stroms are soon dropped as the sand surprises us. Bill on the KTM escapes the drop, but the tire tracks I've been following make wild gyrations.
Hitting the pavement we head quickly to Shoshone for gas and snacks. Leaving around 12 noon we decide to head over Jubilee Pass and into the valley for more exploring. I suggest we head up toward Mengel Pass and see how it goes. No real plan. It's now somewhere around 1 pm.
A few miles of rocky washboard as we climb up toward Warm Springs Canyon. Once we're in, things begin to change. Narrow at times, lots of sand in the wash, and rocks. Although new to these bikes, Bill and I both have considerable dirt experience. Willyvee however, has had little time on dirt.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5661.jpg
The spirit is there, but things start to get tough. We push on and a few more drops occur. Now we're talking about turning around. Willyvee wants to push on hoping it eases a little. He's not real excited about riding back down the wash. Things open up as we reach the openess of Butte Valley Rd. Speeds increase, sand is less, but the sharp rock are everywhere. One clips the wires of my side stand safety switch and my bike goes dead. Hardwired together with some twisting and tape and we're soon on our way again. Hey, it's getting late, but we can see the pass...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5657.jpg
Willyvee is really starting to fatigue. Some of the drops are more like crashes and in a least one drop his leg is pinned. We'd been told the crux is at the pass and we're almost there. Seems too late to turn around. But now it looks like we've got a new thing to contend with. After one drop, Willyvee's bike is smoking like a coal fired locomotive. Has he broken a ring? The bike seems to be running ok. We need to push on, it's getting late! Willyvee is incredibly drained and Bill and I have done more weight lifting in the last few hours than in the preceding few years. We're all looking at each other, but it's a long way back down. Surely we're almost there. But the question now is, is this Willyvee or "Willycrash" again? The poor guy doesn't have the strength to deal, and yes, I'm the son that took him here. What did he do to me to deserve this? Sorry Dad.
Bill and I start to ride his bike on the harder sections to give him a break and we make it to the crux. None of us can ride it. In fact, we can make a run at the beginning of a 10 yard section, but have to be "caught" by the others in a precarious state. We yo-yo three bikes this way, but lots of time goes by.
Finally we're to the pass. Officially known as Mengel, we have rechristened it Mangle Pass. Willyvee is totally spent, but we've still got some light and the knowledge that Goler Canyon has just been graded by the county to the park boundary. We can ride that by headlight... or so we think. Notice no pictures here. Heavy twilight and in the darkness we make a critical mistake, not seeing a descending sharp left hand turn. What's in front of us now is a sweeping climb to the top of a hill. The whole thing is rutted deeply rutted and slick, but Bill quickly makes it to the top. I look at dear old Dad and say something like "keep your speed up, follow me and ride it without hesitation." Willyvee musters up everything he has, but just feet from the top he falls again and the bike is nearly upside down in the rut. We have to spin it just to lift it. Once on top we're now in pitch black and face a steep marble filled ride down the other side. Of course it's turning dark, so headlights only allow you to see a little at a time. Nevertheless, we creep and skid all three bikes down without mishap. Shit, we're at a dead-end. Bill, guns the KTM back up the hill and all I hear is a loud bang. Bill has finally dropped the KTM for the first time. Working together we finally get it on top. Some sense finally overcomes us. The call is made...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5658.jpg
At least we're well prepared. No sleeping bags, no shelter, hell, we've even run out of water. Time to sleep in helmets at 4000 feet in February. We walk around looking for a soft spot to lay in our riding clothes. Of course, the sand we found in abundance before is completely absent now...
The night goes slowly by. Bill says snoring is hereditary. But I can't believe I've slept a wink.
We're begging for sunrise and soon the sun starts to brighten. We all look beat. Yet now, two v-Stroms have to make it up this hill we rode (slid) down last night. I got us here, so I offer to ride it first. My condition is that I get to use Willyvee's bike before my own. It's been designated as the official "crash bike". Sans two turn indicators, half a clutch lever, a bent rear brake and shift lever and a gaping hole in the rear cowl.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5660.jpg
I scout the run up a couple times before making my first attempt. Bill and Willyvee wait near the top where last night's loud bang emanated from the KTM. Luckily, both bikes make it up top without incident. Now back down the rutted other side. Don't touch those brakes too hard or you'll end up in Willyvee's rut. We make it!
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5659.jpg
It's maybe 6:30 am. All three bikes are running. And all three of use are walking with no real damage. The first mile or so is still a little tough so we relieve Willyvee with a couple yo-yo turns. Soon we're at the graded portion of the wash and it is absolutely beautiful...
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5662.jpg
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5664.jpg
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5665.jpg
Willyvee is exhausted, but intrepid. I feel the elation of having a life experience with my father, but feel guilt for getting him there in the first place. It's a mixed bag and I am impressed. The guy never gives up.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5669.jpg
Willyvee emerges from Goler Canyon. A 650 V-Strom, Tourance tires, and no real dirt experience. I see my Dad as my hero.
From the mouth of Goler it's an easy ride on miles of dirt to the town of Ballarat. Along the way we come across a lone van parked in the middle of nowhere. A dirt bike is outside and we meet Mark from Ohio. Generous as can be, he brings out water bottle after water bottle. It feels like a band of brothers and we've just met him. Adventure riders are a unique crowd and I think each of us feels that as we guzzle the precious liquid. Thanking him as we leave, I wonder about how his adventures will unfold out here on his own.
We arrive at Ballarat and are greated by the only resident and caretaker. I'm starting to question - is this guy normal or are we the ones that have gone a little off....
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5671.jpg
Two dollar cold drinks and we're starting to unwind. We need some food. Soon we've hit the pavement. I've got a vision of big fat burgers in Panamint Springs.
http://www.gpxchange.com/fred/5672.jpg
So here we are. Father and son. A day and a half later, but what seems like a lifetime. I'm still not sure whether to apologize or rejoice and thank him for for this incredible experience that all of us will remember to our graves. Without Bill, we would have never made it.
No need for lectures. We already know we broke every rule. And of course we did it with no style.
This ride report is about more than that...
For a complete detailed description of my entire trip across the Sierra, down to Death Valley, and back, go here:
GPXchange.com (http://www.gpxchange.com/fileinfo/index.asp?ID=102108&return=home)
Once there you'll find buttons at the top of the page that take you to all the photos and an interactive map where you can view each part of the route in detail.