DL650 Fork Tube Seal Replacement-Tutorial-Pics

[Black Lab]

I originally did this job on September 20, 2008. My intent was to, do the job, take plenty of photographs, and post a tutorial. I did the first two parts...... Regretfully, I neglected the last step. Since doing this project, the passing of time has eroded some of details from my memory. The photographs are accurate, but my written descriptions may not be! It is possible I may have forgotten a step or two, or have a step out of sequence. However, there are enough helpful folks here to fill in any voids.

Since doing this job, I have learned of another way to tackle it. Because I have not tried it, I don't feel qualified to comment about its details. Other bike owners have found it successful. What I can tell you is, there are two ways to complete this job; from the "top down", or from the bottom up".

By working from the "bottom up", you are removing the wheel assembly first, then loosening the damper bolt at the bottom end of the fork tube, then working your way up the tube to remove it from the motorcycle to access its "innards" to complete the necessary task(s).

Working from the "top down" is the, "by-the-book" method, (referring to the Suzuki Service Manual). It is the method that I used to replace my fork seals and glide and slide metals, (and you could use it to add new springs, fork oil, or Gold Valve Emulators.).

The photographs and text below refer to a 2007 DL-650.

(The Suzuki Service Manual covers most of this between pages 7-16 chassis and 7-23 chassis.).

Please read all the way through before tackling this job.

"From The Top Down."
( Do one fork tube at a time.).

01- Set the bike on its centerstand on a firm, stable surface.
02- Using a screw driver, back off all pre-load from both fork tubes.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenPreloadTension.jpg

03- Slightly loosen the fork cap. A 15/16" wrench will do. (Just "crack it" from its snugged down position.)
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenForkCap.jpg

04- Loosen the upper fork clamp bolt. 10mm. (You don't have to remove it. But insure that there is no longer any pressure against the fork tube.)
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenTopClampBolt.jpg

05- For now, leave the lower fork tube clamping bolts in place.
06- Loosen and remove any forkbrace that may be in place. (A Superbrace will need a 5mm allen wrench).
07- Loosen and remove brake line clamps and speedometer cable clamps.
In the below photograph, you can see the "puddle" of fork oil that has collected along the front edge of the fork tube dust/wiper cover. You can also see fork oil stains on the fork tube itself.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveBrakeLineClips.jpg

08- Remove the brake calipers, (14mm), and tie them up and out of the way.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveBrakeCalipers03.jpg

09- Remove axle pinch bolt. 12mm
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenAxlePinchBolt.jpg

10- Loosen, (but do not remove), axle bolt. Hex 12mm
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenAxle.jpg

11- Jack up or lift up the front of the bike so that there is no weight on the front wheel.
I use a floor jack and a block of wood underneath my SW-Motech skidplate.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/JackUpFrontOfBike.jpg

12- Remove the front axle and drop the front wheel and tire out from under the motorcycle.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveAxleandWheel.jpg

13- Loosen and remove the fender bolts.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenFenderBolts.jpg

Most likely the fender nuts will drop out and will try and run away from you..... Don't loose these little guys!!!!
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/FenderNut01.jpg

14- Remove the fender.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveFender.jpg

From here you have two directions to go: "Manually" (and hope), or impact wrench and get the job done.

What I am referring to is, to loosen, (Just "crack" them a little), the damper rod bolts that are recessed in the bottom of the fork tube, (above the axle hole). One way to try this is to, jam something between the two forks to keep them from spinning and manually try to loosen the damper rod bolt using an allen wrench; 6mm.

A number of riders have used various methods to do this. Below, I show a photograph of a concrete "star" drill bit threaded through caliper bolt holes.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/StarDrill.jpg

I tried to loosen my damper rod bolts this way and I got one loose and the other didn't loosen, but spun the damper rod itself within the fork tube.

The folks that swear by the "bottom up" method say that, with the pre-load adjuster cranked all the way down and the fork cap still tight, there is enough pressure on the damper rod, (from the fork spring), to keep it from spinning. Meaning, you have a greater chance of loosening the damper rod bolt "manually".

After "spinning" the second damper rod, I jumped into the car and drove to Lowe's and purchased their cheapest air impact wrench, (that went along with their cheapest air compressor that I had purchased earlier in the Spring.).

15- Loosen the damper rod bolts just a little. Too much and fork oil is going to leak all over. Don't ask me how I know........
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveDamperRodBolts.jpg

16- Now, while holding on to the fork tube you plan to remove first, reach up to the lower fork tube clamp bolts and loosen them. BE CAREFUL! Once the bolts are loose, the fork tube slides downward very easily and quickly! (No, I didn't drop mine.).
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/LoosenLowerClampBolts.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveForkTube.jpg

Continued in Part 02

[Black Lab]

17- While holding the newly removed fork tube firmly and upright, remove the fork tube cap.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveForkCap.jpg

18- Carefully dump the oil out of the fork tube into a "catch can" of some kind. Be careful here. If you tip up the fork tube too high, not only will the oil pour out, but the spring will slide out too. Which will make a mess when it slams into your oil catch can, (no, that didn't happen to me.).
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/DumpOutForkOil.jpg

19- Once most of the fork oil has been dumped out of the tube, pull out the fork spring and preferably stand it or lay it in an oil catch can.

20- Next, pump the fork tube just as if the tube were working over some serious bumps on a trail or road. Remember to keep the open mouth of the tube over your catch pan while you do this. More oil is going to be "burped" upwards and out of fork valves. When you can't here the tube "gurgle" anymore while pumping it, stop.

21- Back off and remove the damper rod bolt from the bottom of the tube.

22- Tip the bottom of the fork tube upwards and let the damper rod and damper rod spring slide out of the tube. Keep your hand over the end of the tube opening to catch the assembly so it doesn't drop to the floor.

21- Using a screwdriver, pry up the dust/wiper cover. Slide it off of the tube.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/RemoveDustCover.jpg

22- Again using a screwdriver, reach down between the inner tube and outer tube and "flick" the oil seal stopper ring out from its recessed groove.
You can see the oil seal stopper ring in the below photo.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/OilSealRetainingRing.jpg

23- Now, grasp the inner tube in one hand and the outer tube in your other hand and "tug" both tubes apart. The feeling will be like working a slide hammer. You may have to tug a couple of times to get the two tubes apart.

It is here that I have to apologize for the lack of memory on the exact steps I took next. But, using the Service Manual and my photos, I am going to try the best that I can.

24- Remove the guide and slide metals along with the oil seal and oil seal retainer ring off of the tube. The oil lock piece will be loose in the bottom of the tube.

25- Install the new guide and slide metals on to the tube, along with oil seal retainer ring and your new oil seal. Make sure the the "stamped" side of the oil seal is facing the top of the tube. ("Open side" down.).
The below photo shows the "top" side of the oil seal.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/TopOfOilSeal.jpg

26- This is what the whole thing looks like before reassembly.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/GlideandSlideMetals-DamperRodNut.jpg

27- Slide the whole inner fork tube assembly down into the outer tube. It's okay to slide the oil seal up the inner fork tube while doing this.

28- Next, you can purchase and use Suzuki's Fork Oil Seal Installer, (Part # 09940-52861), or a method of your own devising to install and "seat" the oil seal.

I gently pushed the oil seal downward with a screwdriver. Not until it was seated, but until there was enough "back pressure" that I felt I would damage the seal if I pushed any harder with the screwdriver.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/PositioningOilSeal.jpg

I finished seating the oil seal with a soft wooden wedge I cut on my bandsaw. I moved the wedge around the seal, lightly tapping it with a hammer until it felt snug and evenly seated in place.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/TappingOilSealIntoPlace.jpg

29- Install the oil seal stopper ring.

30- slide the dust/wiper cover into place

It is at this juncture that, if you are going to add emulators, new springs and oil, you want to gather all of that gear up.

This is what my fork "innards" look like. From bottom left that's, damper rod bolt, damper rod with damper rod spring around it, Gold Valve Emulator, Spring, (Sonic, I believe .75), spacer, washers, fork cap and fork assembly.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/ForkInteriorLayout.jpg

31- Slide the damper rod and damper rod spring down the tube. Tighten it into place with the damper rod bolt. Use thread locker on damper rod bolt.
In the below photo, you can see that my damper rod has been modified with the requisite holes necessary for the Gold Valve installation.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/InstallingDamperRod.jpg

32- Add everything else that you need or want to at this point to your tube.

33- COMPRESS the tube fully and add some fork oil of your choice and weight, down the tube, ( I have used 12.5 weight and I am now running 15 wt.)

34- Now, pump the tube until it firms up and stops "gurgling", (by pumping the fork tube, you are priming the valve assembly.).

35- Add more oil to fill the tube up. Don't worry about quantity yet.

36- Pump the tube again. Carefully this time so as oil doesn't spurt out the tube.

37- COMPRESS the tube fully. I use a turkey baster to remove the excess fork oil to bring it down to the proper level.
In the below photograph you can see my use of a turkey baster with blue electrical tape marking a point of 150mm. That is the level of oil that I operate at. I "suck" the excess oil out of the tube with the baster. The baster is held against the tube at the 150mm mark.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Fork%20Seals/TurkeyBaster-150mm.jpg

38- Once you are satisfied with your oil level, carefully screw the fork cap into place. REALLY do this carefully because it is very easy to cross-thread the fork cap on the fork tube threads, (Nope, I didn't do it to mine. But, I have heard of it happening.).

Okay, now you have one fork tube done. The other is the same. Assembly of the tubes back into the bike is reverse of how you disassembled them.

Please use thread locker in the appropriate places, (like brake calipers, etc) and also use a torque wrench and proper torque specifications to tighten down the fastenings.

Good Luck!!!

Barry B.

[silverstrom]

OUTSTANDING!

Thanks for taking the time to do this. This will be a big help to many people.

SS

[turboderek]

you are my hero.

[clovett]

My confusion is that if I'm replacing the stock springs with Sonic springs, do I just replace the springs and oil and not completely tear down the tubes? Or do I need to take them apart to measure something?

[turboderek]

My confusion is that if I'm replacing the stock springs with Sonic springs, do I just replace the springs and oil and not completely tear down the tubes? Or do I need to take them apart to measure something?

there is no need to tear down the tubes. Take the forks off the bike, dump out the oil and remove the old springs. take your old springs with the spacer and place them next to the Sonic springs. Cut the pvc spacer to the same size as the stock with its spacer. the directions that come with the Sonic springs is spot on.

[MightyShep]

I merged these threads to make it one continuous post. Excellent write up Black Lab! ;)

[Involute]

there is no need to tear down the tubes. Take the forks off the bike, dump out the oil and remove the old springs. take your old springs with the spacer and place them next to the Sonic springs. Cut the pvc spacer to the same size as the stock with its spacer. the directions that come with the Sonic springs is spot on.

I had pretty good luck leaving the forks in place and un-bolting the handle bars in order to access from the top.

[MZBuckeye]

Just wanted to add that the DL650 forks are, apparently, exactly the same as my Harley's front forks (Showa 39mm diameter?). Great write-up as I just did this on my bike, and I wanted to add how I got the fork seals to seat. I bought a 2' length of 1.5" PVC pipe and a cap for a grand total of $3, slid the pipe over the fork tube and down to the seal, and tapped gently on the cap until the seal slid down into place. Worked like a charm.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x266/gojackets21/HD%20dual%20brake%20kit/IMG_3606.jpg

[turboderek]

thanks for the write up.

http://turboderek.com/webpics/06VStromDL650/RaceTechSonicSpringsDL650Forks.jpg

[greywolf]

Just wanted to add that the DL650 forks are, apparently, exactly the same as my Harley's front forks (Showa 39mm diameter?)
The DL650 has 43mm fork tubes.

[Gus-Strom]

Thanks Black Lab for taking the time to post this tutorial with pics :thumbup:

My 2007 Wee has oil leakage from one of the front forks, so I need to fix it. I´m really new to mechanic, so I want to know which parts I need to replace. I have the 2004 DL650 service manual. Based on what you say in your thread what is need to be replaced is the following?

- oil seal stopper ring
- oil seal
- oil seal retainer
- guide metal
- slide metal

Am I missing something or changing something that doesn´t need to be changed?

I´m not doing this alone, I´m taking the bike with a friend who is motorcycle mechanic but has never worked in a DL650 before. The thing is that we want to be sure what to change so that we can order everything together so that they ship us everything (sometimes here in Mexico is not that easy to find stuff).

Anyway, your kind advice is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance and best regards.

Gus-Strom

[Black Lab]

Thanks Black Lab for taking the time to post this tutorial with pics :thumbup:

My 2007 Wee has oil leakage from one of the front forks, so I need to fix it. I´m really new to mechanic, so I want to know which parts I need to replace. I have the 2004 DL650 service manual. Based on what you say in your thread what is need to be replaced is the following?

- oil seal stopper ring
- oil seal
- oil seal retainer
- guide metal
- slide metal

Am I missing something or changing something that doesn´t need to be changed?

I´m not doing this alone, I´m taking the bike with a friend who is motorcycle mechanic but has never worked in a DL650 before. The thing is that we want to be sure what to change so that we can order everything together so that they ship us everything (sometimes here in Mexico is not that easy to find stuff).

Anyway, your kind advice is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance and best regards.

Gus-Strom

Hey Gus,

I replaced the "high wearing" parts; oil seal and guide and slide metals. I left the other parts alone.

Take your time and do one tube at a time. If you have any questions while working on one tube, you can refer to the other as a "baseline" to go by.

While you are doing this, it is also a good time to upgrade springs. Use new fork oil on the reassembly process. You may want to consider changing the weight of the oil as well if you feel you need to.

Good luck!!!

Barry B.

[dtaylor]

Just wanted to add that the DL650 forks are, apparently, exactly the same as my Harley's front forks (Showa 39mm diameter?). Great write-up as I just did this on my bike, and I wanted to add how I got the fork seals to seat. I bought a 2' length of 1.5" PVC pipe and a cap for a grand total of $3, slid the pipe over the fork tube and down to the seal, and tapped gently on the cap until the seal slid down into place. Worked like a charm.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x266/gojackets21/HD%20dual%20brake%20kit/IMG_3606.jpg

I like yours better, but when I went shopping I couldn't find anything with the right inside diameter. I ended up using a bit of 1.5" ABS pipe sliced into collars and looking a bit like the Suzuki tool's poor cousin:

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii206/dougsbike/DLrepairs/IMGP5595.jpg

I used a 1.5" connector and a bit bigger pipe slid over the fork tube, and tapped the whole mess in. Next time I might try using the fork tube and homemade collar slide hammer-style to gently tap the seal in, if I don't get around to finding the PVC pipe you mention.

[marine88]

Your pics are not there.

[Black Lab]

Your pics are not there.

Hopefully, problem solved.

[Andy gadget]

Great thread, just what I needed.

I just changed the seals on my K5 650, and came up with an easy, no extra parts required, way of easily seating the new seals and top bearing ring.

The seals, both original and after market replacements have a lip or ridge on the outside, this lip is "down" IE towards the axle on the sea.
http://andy-gadget.smugmug.com/photos/682257311_nFPaH-XL.jpg
This lip does the actual sealing of the outside part.

The trick is to use the old seal, reversed, to seat the new seal and bearing, as follows.

Bearing, washer and new seal in position, old seal reversed last of all.
http://andy-gadget.smugmug.com/photos/682254279_xdvCt-XL.jpg

With rags on vise jaws, just lightly clamped on fork tube, position the old seal against the end of the vice jaws, smite the bottom (axle) end of the slider with a soft face hammer and the bearing and new seal are pushed into position.
The main advantage is this setup prevents the bearing and seal rocking as the force is applied, as happens when a punch is used.

Keep hitting until you get the solid sound of the seal bottoming, or until about a millimeter (40 thou to the metric challenged) of the old seal is protruding.
http://andy-gadget.smugmug.com/photos/682252167_77gpx-XL.jpg

Because the seals actually seal on the lip, the old seal is easily withdrawn with fingernails in my case, or small screwdriver if you don't have fitters hands.
http://andy-gadget.smugmug.com/photos/682251480_3PpLG-XL.jpg

The retaining clip is inserted and the dust cover on and all is sweet.

The retaining clip groove.
http://andy-gadget.smugmug.com/photos/682250742_HErYY-XL.jpg

BTW watch for the copper washer under the damper rod bolt, make sure it goes in, and isn't found later when cleaning up the old fork oil:headbang:

[RowBust]

Or you can do what I've done a few times on other bikes, remove the fork leg, remove the dust cover and seal retainer, Fill fork leg with oil, any oil, replace cap, compress fork leg, seal will pop out, install new seal, kind messy but it works.

[Black Lab]

BTW watch for the copper washer under the damper rod bolt, make sure it goes in, and isn't found later when cleaning up the old fork oil:headbang:

Been there, done that!!!

Great tips!

[TexasShadow]

First, I want to thank Black Lab for this thread and his other thread on steering bearings. I used them both as a guide to rebuild the Whee-strom's forks and grease/tighten the steering head bearings.

I replaced the stock springs with Sonic springs and also replaced all bushings, seals, and rings. The entire process should have taken three hours at the most. Instead it took the better part of a day and 1/2. Here's (http://ridingtwowheels.blogspot.com/2009/11/rebuiding-forks-on-wee-strom.html) why.

Below is (from left to right) the second decapitated bolt head, second bolt after removing from bottom of damper rod, and deformed copper washers.

http://texasshadow.smugmug.com/Other/Bikes/Tech-stuff/DSC02387/726684445_qHcy7-L-1.jpg

Lesson learned: Never use impact wrench to tighten fork damper end bolts.
Lesson Two: Always, if possible, do your own bike wrenching. At the very least you have only yourself to blame if something goes wrong. At the most, you know what was done (or not done) to your bike.

Thanks again.

[etklrer]

Thanks for your work illustrating this job

Is this procedure the same on the dl-1000 forks:confused:

[Ecuador]

I'm working on this right now. ( STEP # 23 ON BLACK LABS POST )
trying to separate the top part from the bottom (silver vs black) tuging hard.
cant seem to separate them. took off the retainer ring & dust shield, drained oil, took out spring, etc.
I guess I could try tuging harder, but cant seem to get a good grip.
Did I miss a step ? do I just keep trying ? I dont want to break anything.

thanks:headbang:

[longgreensilverado]

i just replaced my fork oil and seals yesterday and wish i saw this post yesterday about using pvc. it would have worked much easier.


once you remove the bottom bolt, main spring, top cap, and the retainer clip &dust seal, you have to give it a real good yank repeatedly. eventually the
silver and black tubes will seperate.

good write up blacklab

[Philip Kuntz]

Ecuador, you just need to tug harder. That spring clip in the groove above the oil seal and the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg (allen head) is all that is holding them together. You did remove that bolt, right? :fineprint:

For a seal driver to install the new oil seal, I bought an 18" piece of 2" exhaust pipe from the auto parts store for a few bucks. It worked great as a seal driver, no hammer needed. :yesnod:

[Ecuador]

Thanks. I'll go over it again.