Clunky upshift from 1st to 2nd gear on DL650.

[StromBear]

Hello Everybody,

I have seemd to noticed that my 08 VStrom (24000Km), is making an unsettling clunky noise when upshifting from 1st to 2nd gear, this is somewhat better if the shifting happens above 7000rpm.

Downshifting from 2nd to 1st is some time good, some time the same as upshifting.

All other gear changes are ok, feels like butter.

To give you an idea, force required for 1st to 2nd is about double of other shifts, noise much more noticeable.

Does it happens to every one else or it is just me?

[greywolf]

Many new riders report the 1-2 and 5-6 changes are sometimes missed or feel different. With time, those reports are changed. I'm not sure if the bike or the rider is getting broken in but it does usually go away with time.

[graham downunder]

A couple of things that may help

Adjust your gear lever down a bit so it contact you boot better , some people have too big a gap .

chech your chain is not too tight

Oil change can smooth out gearbox nicely ,oil is cheep change it .

I live Australia an use NUYLON engine treatment it's TEFLON based and written safe for wet clutches on the bottle .I use about about 100ml ,then if the bike need a top up as miles go by I use up to 100ml of this .The reason I use it as a top up is oil is not just oil it has many additives in it these generally need replacing as miles go by.

[Wombat]

I've had my '09 Wee for about 3 weeks. I have noticed the 1-2 shift is a bit abrupt, I don't notice any clunking sounds or anything. I suspected that it was me not being smooth on the clutch. The 5-6 shift is smooth. All the downshifts seem fine.

Your clunk should smooth out with some wear on the geartrain and an oil change or two. I have experienced occasional notchyness on car gearboxs when new, which smoothed out with some miles and gear oil change.

[StromBear]

Hi,

I've adjusted the chain slack a month ago, as it was a little too slack, did check the adjustment with a loaded bike.

To be honest, the bike is due for the 24000Km service (it has 23700 on it), so may be oil has something to do with it.

Last time I've changed it I used Motul 5100 10W50 (dealer suggested that).

And as the weather went sharply from cold to hot these last 2 days, it has almost disappeared.

Anyway, will see after the service.

[stal1us]

I have 2 Wee's and they shift ok, but not great. I think the linkage has a lot to do with it. For a great shifting bike try a Ducati Multistrada, just like butta.:):)

[bigboy292000]

I have had a similar problem on my DR650. To a degree that I was going to have it looked at.

Once I switched to Shell Rotella T Synth - it all went away and never came back.

So I am looking forward to putting the same into my Wee. I get some notchiness but not too bad. I just did a 600 mile change, and plan to move to Synth at 3000 miles.

[johnny mistry]

yeah I get this too.

I only picked up the bike on Saturday - it's pre-reg with just over 2000 miles on the clock (used only by the sales manager apparently). Changing from 1st to 2nd at normal speed is clunky and sounds like I've just dropped a metal ladle into a plastic bowl. At either of the speed extremes it's perfectly fine.

Going to ask the garage and about it tomorrow morning. I'll let you know.

Jm

[StromBear]

Hello everybody, just an update on the "Upshift" problem, as I said, it was due for the 24000K service.

When I picked up the bike, I was told that they only drained 1.7L of oil!
There was supposed to be 2.7-2.5L.

So, no oil = bad shifting, that's why.

But this bring on another question, where's the oil gone?

For as much as I have checked, could see no "wet" spots anywere, so no external leaking.

I checked and topped it up a month or so ago, so somehow this bike is drinking over 1L of oil every 6000K. This got the service guy a bit worried, he said to keep an eye on the oil and bring the bike in for checking after 1000K.

Lucky this bike is less than 1 year old, so everything will be done under warranty, still, I ride 150K every day and have no other veichle to use in the mean time, hate catching public transport...

Does anyone had/have this problem on their wee?

[AppGap]

How long had it been since the oil was changed? You mentioned topping it up 4500k ago? 30 days at 150 a day right? Might have something to do with it......

[Mortaine]

Hello everybody, just an update on the "Upshift" problem, as I said, it was due for the 24000K service.

When I picked up the bike, I was told that they only drained 1.7L of oil!
There was supposed to be 2.7-2.5L.

So, no oil = bad shifting, that's why.

But this bring on another question, where's the oil gone?

Out the tail pipe past the rings and or valve guides:confused:

[RockyMtnScotsman]

1st => 2nd "clunk" has never been a problem w/ mine
.
.
.
.
..now 2nd => 3rd, that's another matter.....

[StromBear]

Out the tail pipe past the rings and or valve guides:confused:

Being a little mechanically challanged, I assume that's bad? Too bad?

What could be wrong?

And should I be worried?


Thanks guys.

[Starfleet]

StromBear, I notice you are doing 150k per day. Are these high speed miles? We have noticed increasingly that modern bikes that are held at high speed for mile after mile tend to use some oil and so a careful eye should be kept on the level. If you are covering these miles at fairly high speed especially on older oil coming up for for change, it has a tendency to evaporate through the engine breather as you ride. It mists out. Some will of course burn in the combustion chambers in tiny quantities and this is normal, unless you have a problem and are losing large amounts of oil quickly. But evaporation is the more normal way for your level to drop. The reason for this is the engine delivers a large squirt of oil to the underside of the searing hot pistons on the power stroke to relieve stress caused by heat. This 'super heated' oil mists inside the crankcase and some is expelled via the engine breather. It doesn't take long to lose quite a bit over several hundred miles at speed. Although, the newer the oil the less evap occurs.

[Stromin'Nroman]

Athough I have no empirical data, I could swear there is a difference between brands of oil and the percieved smoothness of the shifts on my 650. The $7 oil allows for smoother shifts than the $3 oil.

[randyo]

in my opinion, the most common reason for clunky shifting is dirty shift linkage, it's operated with a dirty boot, low to the ground where it picks up road grime, and seldom thoroughly cleaned

[StromBear]

StromBear, I notice you are doing 150k per day. Are these high speed miles? We have noticed increasingly that modern bikes that are held at high speed for mile after mile tend to use some oil and so a careful eye should be kept on the level. If you are covering these miles at fairly high speed especially on older oil coming up for for change, it has a tendency to evaporate through the engine breather as you ride. It mists out. Some will of course burn in the combustion chambers in tiny quantities and this is normal, unless you have a problem and are losing large amounts of oil quickly. But evaporation is the more normal way for your level to drop. The reason for this is the engine delivers a large squirt of oil to the underside of the searing hot pistons on the power stroke to relieve stress caused by heat. This 'super heated' oil mists inside the crankcase and some is expelled via the engine breather. It doesn't take long to lose quite a bit over several hundred miles at speed. Although, the newer the oil the less evap occurs.

Hi, I do the first 20Km at around 100Km/h, then 25Km at about 130/160Km/h (I know it's a little bit over the speed limit...), then the city comes in for the next 15/20 Km at 60/70Km/h.

Going back home is the reverse.

[reddog]

I have also found the shifts clunky if my bikes idle speed is too low. Turning the idle up to 1200-1400 rpm seems to smooth out the shifts in all directions and make the bike feel smoother/sportier after adjustment.

[V-Tom]

... The reason for this is the engine delivers a large squirt of oil to the underside of the searing hot pistons on the power stroke to relieve stress caused by heat. ...

I agree that in general higher speeds burn more oil.
However, do our engines have oil jets to cool the pistons? I know my cars do, but I didn't think they were on the Stroms (but would be happy to know they are!)

..Tom

[Mortaine]

lol, i've never seen an oil jet to cool a piston... they make those?

Yes Daffy there is a lot you have never seen or done.:rolleyes::rolleyes:

[T3/T4 Hybrid]

lol, i've never seen an oil jet to cool a piston... they make those?


Dodge uses oil squirts on the turbo SRT-4 engines... Second pict on the top ;)
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0309_2003_dodge_neon_srt4_engine_overview/pictures.html

[V-Tom]

lol, i've never seen an oil jet to cool a piston... they make those?

VW has had them in their Turbo Diesels since (I believe) 1983, in the 16 Valves from 1987 on.

Do our bikes have them?

..Tom

[greywolf]

Page 6-23 of the service manual shows piston cooling oil jets in the engine lubrication flow chart. It's pretty common really.