How to disconnect clutch linkage to change engine sprocket?

[Corkus]

Here's a photo of my Wee's engine sprocket. I want to change it and I can't figure out how to get the clutch linkage out of the way. I'm thinking it is not that difficult but I couldn't do it on my first try.

Here's the unedited photo:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh240/strongbird2008/IMG_0016.jpg?t=1219946170


Here's the edited photo so we know what parts we're talking about:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh240/strongbird2008/IMG_0016b.jpg?t=1219946393

So, which is correct of these?

A. Simply remove the barrel connector behind the green dot (if so, how? I couldnt' get it off)

B. Remove Bolt A, Bolt B and the retaining tab

C. Remove Bolt C (I know, a nut not a bolt) and the tab

D. B and C

E. No need to remove the linkage (Doesn't look to be enough room to wrench the sprocket nut off to me...)

F. None of the above

Thanks all.

[Gtown]

Remove the two 10mm bolts and the spring. It just slips right off then.

[rcacs]

Remove the two 10mm bolts and the spring. It just slips right off then.


Yup, exactly

[rjsurfer]

Good info guys, I'm planning on doing the same thing (16t) tomorrow I just received my sprocket today.

What to you use to keep the sprocket nut from turning, do you just keep it in gear and use a little rear brake? That won't hurt the tranny?

rjsurfer

[Corkus]

What to you use to keep the sprocket nut from turning, do you just keep it in gear and use a little rear brake? That won't hurt the tranny?

rjsurfer

I was told by a very experienced 650 owner that he "has someone stand on the rear brake with the bike in first gear as he uses a breaker bar to loosen the engine sprocket nut".

I'm the very cautious sort and I get a little spooked about the possibility of tranny damage if I don't do things exactly right. There are pieces in the tranny that are possible to damage with reverse torque on the engine sprocket nut.

My plan is to have someone stand on the rear brake, and hold the front brake, while the bike is in neutral and the rear tire is blocked against something like a curb. (In my case a stout tool box wedged against a wall.) I think it should work and the failure mode is the rear tire turns - no damage. If it doesn't work then I'll put the bike in first gear but I'd rather not do that.

[greywolf]

A and B will free the unit. C is the clutch pushrod adjuster and locknut. Take care after removing the unit. The inside will fall out of the container easily and needs to be put back in the same place if it comes apart.

[Gtown]

Good info guys, I'm planning on doing the same thing (16t) tomorrow I just received my sprocket today.

What to you use to keep the sprocket nut from turning, do you just keep it in gear and use a little rear brake? That won't hurt the tranny?

rjsurfer

I used an air impact gun so I didn't have to do all that fancy holding. Sorry I can't help.

[Scarlett Harlot]

A and B will free the unit. C is the clutch pushrod adjuster and locknut. Take care after removing the unit. The inside will fall out of the container easily and needs to be put back in the same place if it comes apart.


GW
What exactly is it that falls out?

[greywolf]

Look at the cylindrical part of #17. It's a cylinder within a cylinder helically splined together. The inner cylinder comes out of the outer one.

[Godfather]

I was told by a very experienced 650 owner that he "has someone stand on the rear brake with the bike in first gear as he uses a breaker bar to loosen the engine sprocket nut".

I'm the very cautious sort and I get a little spooked about the possibility of tranny damage if I don't do things exactly right. There are pieces in the tranny that are possible to damage with reverse torque on the engine sprocket nut.

My plan is to have someone stand on the rear brake, and hold the front brake, while the bike is in neutral and the rear tire is blocked against something like a curb. (In my case a stout tool box wedged against a wall.) I think it should work and the failure mode is the rear tire turns - no damage. If it doesn't work then I'll put the bike in first gear but I'd rather not do that.


Slip a 2X4 through the rear wheel and over the top of the swing arm so it rests on each side of the swingarm. When you turn the nut to losten it the wheel will rotate untill one of the three spokes touches the 2X4 and then stop. You can use a breaker bar if needed to losten the nut without damaging anything.

[pjwoolw]

Corkus if you need a hand with anything give me a call. As you know I'm pretty close by and fairly well equipped tool wise. I'll PM you with my cell number.

[dcwn.45]

Just my .02, if anyone is considering changing their own chain/sprockets, DO IT! it was very easy!
I was nervous, but got a mechanic friend to help me and it was so easy I was embarrassed!
The clutch parts go off and on very easily, just prop them out of the way carefully.
Bend the washer flat and unbolt the front sprocket and replace.

[do loosen all the bolts before you remove the rear wheel, it gives you something to brace against]

Angle grinder to remove chain ,replace rear sprocket , cut new chain to length with angle grinder. I didn't buy a chain tool but carefully pressed on the new link with a combination of vise grips and a shim and a C clamp.
I got the link together with the proper tension [same as the rest] and peened the rivets over [mushroomed them slightly] by pressing against the back side with a heavy hammer and pounding on the front side.

It was very easy, with the help of my mechanic friend,it took 1 hour. I am sure I could now do it by myself in about that time.