DL650 Rear Shock - (20 ways to renew your lover.)

[Black Lab]

At 30,000 miles, and with the type of riding I do, my Suzuki OEM rear shock has worn out. The shock would nearly bottom out over fairly small pot holes, and the rear wheel would badly "track cracks" in the road. There was a vertical "softness" and a lateral instability of the rear end of the bike. I have had to significantly "dial back" my style of riding and eliminate my usual long weekend trips, until I could find a shock that fit my priority list of "wishes" and have it built and shipped to me. That has been a six week wait! (OUCH!! Three weeks to gather extra, non-budgeted funds and research, and three weeks to have the shock built and shipped to me.).

I began to do online research to see what shocks were available and what riders were saying about each one. The purchase cost of the shock was a top concern for me, along with a good warranty and future maintenance, (rebuilding), of the shock.

I settled on a Hyperpro 460 model shock. It has no "bells or whistles" to add to the purchase cost. It has a 5 year warranty. The sales and service shop is located on the East Coast of the US, ( http://www.wilbersusa.com/).

Most of you "suspension folks" are very familiar with Klaus and his reputation of "delivering the goods". He has done an excellent job for me and I am very happy with my new Hyperpro shock. There are no questions as to "how" I ride and "where" I ride and on what surfaces, (I try to find the dirt!). By providing this information to Klaus, Hyperpro was able to build a rear shock that fits me better then the OEM shock. Also, without the, "Maybe I will ride like this", or "maybe ride like that", or "maybe on this", or "maybe on that.", I was able to save some money by not building in some of the extras that you will find on other aftermarket shocks. I could have purchased a 461 model shock, but it would have cost a couple hundred bucks more. It would also cost more in the future to have the shock rebuilt. My main goal was to purchase a relatively low cost, very good quality, simple solution for my bike. The shock was $614 delivered to my door. I installed it myself, which was very, very easy to do.

First, here is the packaging of the Hyperpro shock. Tough, plastic case. Shock, manual, tools and cap. On the inside lid of the plastic case, there is an adhesive label that has all of the specifics of my custom shock. This same label was affixed to the shipping invoice as well as the instruction manual. Attention to detail!!!

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/ShippingCase-Inside.jpg


Here is a shot of the Hyperpro lying next to the OEM Suzuki shock. The lack of "meat" at the bottom of the Hyperpro shock is a concern to me compared to the OEM shock. I'll just have to trust in the engineers on this one. The length of the shaft, (seen inside of the spring), of the shock is longer and of a larger diameter on the Hyperpro then on the OEM shock.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/OEM-HyperproCompare.jpg

NOTE: The following work was done on a 2007 DL-650.

Double Note: Remember to torque your bolts and apply a "thread locker" solution to all bolt threads during reassembly.

01- Place motorcycle on its centerstand, (That's #1 or #2 Farkle on your purchase list. I purchased a SW-Motech centerstand.).
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/BeforeWork.jpg

02- Remove any luggage that may impede side access to the rear end of the bike.

03- Remove the rear wheel assembly to provide maximum clearance workspace.

04- Remove the seat to provide access to the top of the shock and also to cast more light to the situation.

05- Not having done a "shock swap" before, out of a "stability concern", I decided to block up the swing arm to better support the motorcycle.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/BlockUpSwingArm02.jpg

06- Disassembly began with removing the hydraulic preload reservoir; two 10mm bolts.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/RemovePreloadAdjuster.jpg

07- There is a clip that holds the preload hose to the frame of the bike. The hose needs to be slid out of that clip.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/PreloadAdjusterHose.jpg

08- Loosen and remove the bottom cushion lever rod bolt from the cushion lever. (Bolt head = 14mm; Nut = 17mm).
The bolt was a little tough to pull out, so I gently tapped it out with a hammer while using an Allen wrench as a drift.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/TapOutBottomBolt.jpg

09- With the lower cushion lever rod bolt removed, swing the cushion lever rods upward out of the way. Temporarily fastening the rods in the upward position is a good idea. I didn't do that, and they dropped down a couple of times while I continued working on the bike.

10- With the lower lever rod bolt removed, the swing arm can be blocked up even higher to give better access to the shock area.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/LinksSwungUp.jpg

11- Remove the bottom shock absorber bolt. (Bolt head = 12mm, Nut = 14mm)
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/LoosenBottomShockBolt.jpg

12- Remove the top shock absorber bolt. (Bolt head = 14mm, Nut = 14mm). You will notice that when you try and pull the bolt from the shock, there is not much clearance on the left side of the bike for its removal. Reassembly will be, inserting the bolt from the right side of the bike, (nut on the left.)

13- Slide the OEM shock out. Say kind words of "Thank You" to it for literally saving your butt. Gently place it in the shipping box your new shock arrived in so that it can get some much deserved rest.

14- Slide your new shock in. Insert the top bolt from the right side of the bike, having the nut on the left side; much easier. Tighten. Torque later.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/TopBolt-RighttoLeft.jpg

15- Insert the bottom shock bolt into place. To match the top bolt, I kept the nut on the left side. Tighten.

16- Torque top and bottom shock bolts to 50 n-m or 36 lb-ft
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/TorqueTopShock.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/TorqueBottomShock.jpg

17- Drop down the cushion rod levers and install their bolt; keep the nut on the left for simplicity. Torque to 78 n-m or 56.5 lb-ft
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/TorqueBottomShock02.jpg

18- Reassemble the rear wheel. This is a perfect opportunity to reverse the axle bolt; having the nut on the left side of the bike, (See? Everything is the same.......). By doing this, when installing the axle bolt, it can hold the brake caliper and bushing, (DON'T reverse the bushings!), while you wrestle with the rest of the wheel.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/barry_buchanan/2008%20Modifications/Rear%20Shock/AxleFromRight.jpg

19- Adjust your chain.

20- Double check all of your work before you go for a test ride.


EDIT: 10-28-09 (For ABS Equipped Bikes)

The below observations and suggestions are from rider, wanna be (http://www.stromtrooper.com/showpost.php?p=483052&postcount=20).

want to add my experience regarding changing the shock on an ABS equipped bike.

don't know if it applies to others but for me the biggest, by far, problem was getting the stock remote preload adjuster out.
after spending a good half hour wondering how others took it off so easily I came to the conclusion that no route was feasible without removing stuff.
so I unbolted the bolt holding the ABS box to the subframe, the one on the right near the original place of the adjuster.
I also unscrewed the two screws holding the rear brake pump in place.
Then I wedged the ABS support and slid the preload adjuster hose under it.
moved the hose and remote adjuster behind the loose brake pump and it was free.
it then came off easily when dropping the shock.

after reading stubborn upper screw cases I opted to undo it first.
everything else went smoothly and super easy.


Enjoy!

[tmcgee]

Nice report, Barry! I know I'm gonna need to reference it sooner or later.

[Black Lab]

Nice report, Barry! I know I'm gonna need to reference it sooner or later.

Thanks. I should have made a note of the time involved. It took me an hour and a half to do the work which includes taking notes and taking pictures. I think it is fair to say that an individual, with the right tools, could do the whole job in 30 to 40 minutes. It's that simple.

B.

[RockyMtnRoadRash]

Nice explanation and the best pics I've ever seen. I think I speak for all Vee owners who've replaced their rear shock when I say that I hate you smug Wee non-crossover-exhaust-having bastards.

[Black Lab]

I think I speak for all Vee owners who've replaced their rear shock when I say that I hate you smug Wee non-crossover-exhaust-having bastards.

Now, now, I think the agreement is no more Vee - Wee bashing. ;)

Seriously, I just hope that this may inspire others to give this project a go. It's not that difficult to do and you will save a bunch on labor costs if you do it yourself. The net result is, when you replace your suspension system, (both front and rear), with a system that is built for you and your type of riding, you end up with a whole new bike; a safer, better performing bike.

My suspension choice was based purely on economics. For those who prefer "name brand" products and more adjustability, you can spend easily twice as much as I did. And, that's great! I just can't afford to go that route. But, that's not to say that the Hyperpro is a "cheap" product. A 5 year warranty is pretty darn good!!!!! Judging by how many miles I have on my bike now, (In a little over one year.), that would be nearly 200,000 miles five years from now. It will be well tested.........

Barry

[oneguyinmaine]

That shop looks familiar....Does Bill know what you are up to on the weekends?! :-D

Looks good Barry!

J

[Black Lab]

That shop looks familiar....Does Bill know what you are up to on the weekends?! :-D

Looks good Barry!

J

Damn! I forgot! I now have "eyes" where I work.

Congratulations on your new purchase. Can I borrow it for a short spin? I promise to bring it back in one piece..............

[bald blur]

Thanks for the post. Great pics. I am going to do this in October except I want the Wilburs with the side mount adjuster because I change setup frequently depending on passenger.

[oneguyinmaine]

[QUOTE=Black Lab;285685]Damn! I forgot! I now have "eyes" where I work.

Congratulations on your new purchase. Can I borrow it for a short spin? I promise to bring it back in one piece..............[/QUOT

Give me a chance to wear off the shiny newness first!! And get some crashbars!!

Jared

[Black Lab]

[QUOTE=Black Lab;285685]Damn! I forgot! I now have "eyes" where I work.

Congratulations on your new purchase. Can I borrow it for a short spin? I promise to bring it back in one piece..............[/QUOT

Give me a chance to wear off the shiny newness first!! And get some crashbars!!

Jared

The first scratch hurts. The rest of them, just makes your grin get larger......

Follow this thread, http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=28906, and think about it. It's a good chance to come home not only grinning but laughing too.

B.

[rubberbandito]

I wish it were that easy. I am having a hell of a time since getting the shock in the top slot I'll have to hammer the hell out of it. I had to hammer the hell out of it to get it out. Seems the two bars up top shrunk somehow. What can I do to get it in? Thanks

[marku]

I just removed shock to get Hyperpro spring installed. Figured I'd post this as it was a lot easier (lucky I guess) than some others and worked for me - reading other posts I was concerned it could be tougher job.

Mine is a 650K6- 49 state. Read posts about removing parts for clearance and stuck shocks but had no problems - took about 20 minutes just as shown in Shop manual with exception I did not remove the links. It might be becasue I have Suzuki centerstand (also understand 1000 has exhaust issues). My shock fell right down by its and lower linkage weight (bolts were tight)

1- Loosed bottom link and shock bolts (socket and extension both sides)
2- Removed bottom link bolt and let them dangle
3- unbolted and undid clamp for preload adjuster and set on frame
4 - removed top shock bolt and it fell downward to end of travel on pivot
5- removed bottom shock and carefully lowered shock i one hand and preload adjusted in the other - it rotated right out in front of rear tire

Can't wait to get the spring put on - figure it will let me ride with wife on back without blinding oncoming cars. I think I'll use blue threadlock for install.

BTW - if the shock on mine was stuck on the top like some others I was prepared to pry first and if that did not work tie a piece of rope around bottom and use a wieght to drop to try to pull it out - I just don't like hammers around painted frames ect unless a last resort..

[dtalk]

Forgive my ignorance, but I can't tell from the photos or the vendor's website whether the 460 has adjustable preload and damping ... could someone fill me in?

[tmcgee]

Forgive my ignorance, but I can't tell from the photos or the vendor's website whether the 460 has adjustable preload and damping ... could someone fill me in?

Yes. It does.

[Black Lab]

Forgive my ignorance, but I can't tell from the photos or the vendor's website whether the 460 has adjustable preload and damping ... could someone fill me in?

The adjustable preload is manual and not a remote hydraulic apparatus as is the case with the OEM shock. The preload is adjusted by turning a large "nut" on top of the shock with the supplied wrench. It is not as convenient as a remote, hydraulic adjuster, but the #460 costs less because of not having that option.

The #461 has a remote hydraulic preload adjuster option.

I only ride "one up". The 50lbs of gear that I add for my weekend trips is not enough to merit changing my preload. I set the preload and forget it and save a little money.

The dampening is adjusted by a knurled knob at the base of the shock. The shock is delivered to you with the proper preload set and also the dampening set, (with instructions of what + or - reccommended boundries you should operate in), for you.

For example, my shock is set at "20 clicks" from completely open, (the softest setting). The suggested boundries are + or - 5 clicks on either side of that. I usually run at 23 clicks for the best performance for me.

Last evening, I changed my fork oil, (well used black mess), from 15wt to 10wt and adjusted my Race Tech emulators to "1 1/2 turns" from the stock "2 turns" provided by the factory. I also have Sonic .90 springs installed. I have softened the front end for more rough road riding.

I have reduced the dampening on the rear shock to "18 clicks" so that the rear of the bike will "follow" the front of the bike's lead.

Feels like a whole new bike again.

(I also have slid the forks up 1/2" above the triple tree and also have a Superbrace, fork brace installed.).

B.

[dtalk]

The preload is adjusted by turning a large "nut" on top of the shock with the supplied wrench.

That's cool -- it's an appropriate compromise as long as it can be done without taking the bike apart. The budget for 2010 is looking tight, and the rear stock spring is getting pretty bad, so I like having a replacement option that keeps the cost under $700.

Thank you -d

[garandman]

That's cool -- it's an appropriate compromise as long as it can be done without taking the bike apart. The budget for 2010 is looking tight, and the rear stock spring is getting pretty bad, so I like having a replacement option that keeps the cost under $700.

Thank you -dThe Sasquatch rebuild of the stock shock is around $400, I think, and well regarded.

I got the Elka on the back and Sonic springs and Ricor Initiminators on the front and the bike is much less affected by cross winds than previously. They all went on at the same time so I don't know which had the biggest influence, though.

Is the shock the same for all year DL650's? I have my OEM shock sitting in the basement. Perhaps I should sell it or loan it to someone getting a Sasquatch rebuild.

[dtalk]

The Sasquatch rebuild of the stock shock is around $400, I think, and well regarded.

I'd never heard of them, but that does sound worth considering. Thanks for the tip.

[RTL]

I'd never heard of them, but that does sound worth considering. Thanks for the tip.http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=39669

[wanna_be]

want to add my experience regarding changing the shock on an ABS equipped bike.

don't know if it applies to others but for me the biggest, by far, problem was getting the stock remote preload adjuster out.
after spending a good half hour wondering how others took it off so easily I came to the conclusion that no route was feasible without removing stuff.
so I unbolted the bolt holding the ABS box to the subframe, the one on the right near the original place of the adjuster.
I also unscrewed the two screws holding the rear brake pump in place.
Then I wedged the ABS support and slid the preload adjuster hose under it.
moved the hose and remote adjuster behind the loose brake pump and it was free.
it then came off easily when dropping the shock.

after reading stubborn upper screw cases I opted to undo it first.
everything else went smoothly and super easy.

[Black Lab]

want to add my experience regarding changing the shock on an ABS equipped bike.

don't know if it applies to others but for me the biggest, by far, problem was getting the stock remote preload adjuster out.
after spending a good half hour wondering how others took it off so easily I came to the conclusion that no route was feasible without removing stuff.
so I unbolted the bolt holding the ABS box to the subframe, the one on the right near the original place of the adjuster.
I also unscrewed the two screws holding the rear brake pump in place.
Then I wedged the ABS support and slid the preload adjuster hose under it.
moved the hose and remote adjuster behind the loose brake pump and it was free.
it then came off easily when dropping the shock.

after reading stubborn upper screw cases I opted to undo it first.
everything else went smoothly and super easy.

Excellent additions!!! I have copied them, (and have given you credit for them), into the original post.

THANKS!

Barry B.

[tmcgee]

I just cut the old adjuster hose. The shock was toast anyway.

[gumbotz]

I love these write ups. Helps us understand how simple things can be.

Question: What ??

18- Reassemble the rear wheel. This is a perfect opportunity to reverse the axle bolt; having the nut on the left side of the bike, (See? Everything is the same.......). By doing this, when installing the axle bolt, it can hold the brake caliper and bushing, (DON'T reverse the bushings!), while you wrestle with the rest of the wheel.

[Black Lab]

I love these write ups. Helps us understand how simple things can be.

Question: What ??

At least on 2007 and older Dl-650s, the rear axle nut OEM location was on the right side of the bike. By "flipping" around the axle and having the nut on the left side, the axle can act as another set of "helping hands" to hold the rear brake caliper and wheel bushing in place, while reinstalling the rear wheel.

Most all of us have done this.

Thank you for the compliment.

B.