DL650 Valve Adjustment Notes and Tips

[ntm]

4892

This zipped Word document contains several pages of notes that I prepared after completing the first valve adjustment on my DL650. It is a compilation of suggestions from other posters and my own tips and observations. It is meant as an adjunct to the Workshop Manual, certainly not a replacement. It will be of more use to newbies than experienced wrenches.

In short, it is exactly what I wish I had been able to find, all in one spot, before I embarked on the valve adjustment. I hope it is of use to others.

The topics it covers are:
-Introduction
-Disassembly
-Radiator Removal
-Removing the Cylinder Head Covers
-Rotating the Crank
-Notes on Measurement
-Checking Valve Clearances
-Cam Chain Tensioners
-Cam Removal
-Bucket and Shim Removal
-Shim Measurement and Installation
-Parts, Tools and Supplies
-Torque Wrench
-Shim Kits

Feel free to provide feedback or ask any questions you might have.

Nick

[roger123]

Looks good, I just printed it out and read through it.

The only part of this job that has me concerned is the cam chain. Hate to mess that up and bend all the valves on start-up:sad1::sad1::confused:

[greywolf]

I did just that with a Honda CB500. The 650 has well marked cams and good service instructions. If carefully followed, cam timing shouldn't be a problem.

[roger123]

I did just that with a Honda CB500. The 650 has well marked cams and good service instructions. If carefully followed, cam timing shouldn't be a problem.

This will be my first "bucket type" valve adjust, done several screw and lock nut ones. This looks more interesting to say the least!

Much great info on this site though so I'm sure ya'll be able to help me out if needed:p

[james1300]

Thank you for taking time to post this information! :D

[khager]

Good job. I have 2 questions, as I am fixing to do mine and want to minimize down time by having shims available before hand. Not sure if I will be able to get them from a dealer. Since you mention that the factory installed shims all seem to be in the 1.60mm – 1.75mm range I was thinking of getting this Hot cams refill kit

HC-7150175 Includes 5 of each size 1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65, 1.70, 1.75 mm shims $35.99

instead of the big kit that includes 3 of everything. Would this be a good bet? All of yours were in this range, correct?
Has anybody else had any outside this range? Please chime in. Thanks

Kevin

[ntm]

Kevin,

That kit would have fit my bike fine. It's relatively expensive (per shim) compared to the big kit, but it seems like the right sizes and 5 rather than 3 of each size is great. You'll need others to chime in on what sizes they've needed, but I'd say go for it.

I found it very convenient to have the shims on hand.

Nick

[XLonDL650]

NTM,

Q1:Could you(or anyone else) recommend a specific brand & model of tappet feeler gauges suitable for checking the valve clearances on theDL650 ? I don’t think the standard tongue-depressor type will work. Wouldn’t the angled type with a range covering an 001” to .020” be necessary ?

Q2:Are there any dowel pins or o-rings that need to be removed when stripping the engine while performing the valve adjustment procedure ? Are there any cam bearings or bearing retainer clips under the journal holders ? I don't see any in the manual, but I want to be sure.

Q3:Is it necessary to use any particular kind of assembly lube when re-installing the cams on the DL650 ? I watched a Hot Cams installation video recently for a different bike and they had a tube of this stuff they kept putting on the cams, cam support and top of the lifter where it makes contact with the cam to 'avoid engine damage at start-up'.

Q4: They also have a break-in procedure which recommends running the engine for at least 3,000rpm for 30 minutes following re-assembly(no idling;light loads only). It should be noted that in this video they also were installing a different cam with the shims. Did you do this ?

[BlueRidgeWee]

Nice writeup! Good timing, too. I'll be checking mine in another 1500 miles or so, though I expect them to be right in the middle of their ranges where I left them judging from other members experience on this site.

[ntm]

XLonDL650,

Q1: Any feelers will work - you just need to bend them a bit with your finger as they approach the cam/tappet. You might want to shoot for Craftsman quality rather than Harbor Freight on this item. You can get fancy if you want, but definitely not needed. I do have a staight set where the tip tapers in and they are convenient, but again, not necessary. Suggest you reread my notes on using feelers though.

Q2: No dowel pins or O-Rings. There are some in the cylinder head, but you just leave them unduisturbed.

Q3: Any "ass lube" will work. I liked the look of the clear stuff in the tube in the Hot Cams video. Remember the Hot Cams video assumes you are replacing the cams, not just shims, so they are very liberally using assembly lube. I think the DL650 manual calls for something like "molybdenum oil" for this use, but I used a bit of assembly lube. Manual also tell you where to use some motor oil during reassembly.

Q4: Again, break-in is for new cams, not shims. No break-in needed here, just normal warm-up (and paranoid listening for strange noises, if you are at all like me).

Give it a go - good luck!

Nick

[roger123]

I ordered a shim kit from Adeventure Motostuff and will be performing the check as soon as the kit arrives. 23K on the bike and I've been feeling pretty bad that I've been neglecting this check, I'm usually more anal than this!!

The weather has finally cooled off some, I have a slow period at work and I'm between rides so I'm ready to dive in.

[XLonDL650]

XLonDL650,

Q1: Any feelers will work - you just need to bend them a bit with your finger as they approach the cam/tappet. .


Autozone: $3.99; seemed to have the proper graduations needed.

Angled Feeler Guage (http://www.autozone.com/R,2302028/store,456/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm)


Q3: Any "ass lube" will work.


Advance Auto parts had this in Stock for $4.24:

Permatex Engine Assembly Lube (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PTX&MfrPartNumber=81950)

I believe it even contains molybendium solids, too.

[khager]

Kevin,

That kit would have fit my bike fine. It's relatively expensive (per shim) compared to the big kit, but it seems like the right sizes and 5 rather than 3 of each size is great. You'll need others to chime in on what sizes they've needed, but I'd say go for it.

I found it very convenient to have the shims on hand.

Nick

Ok I just ordered this kit. I did a little more research and everybody seems to be in this range. Hopefully it will work out.

HC-7150175 Includes 5 of each size 1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65, 1.70, 1.75 mm shims $35.99

[khager]

Update, I just adjusted my valves today, the above refill kit worked just fine and saved me time and some bucks too. The four valves on the rear cyl all had 1.80 mm shims. The exhausts were out of spec one was .006 and the other .007 so I swapped in some 1.70 mm from the kit and some 1.75 mm for the intakes as they weren't as bad. The front had 1.72 mm for the exhausts which I ended up using on the front intakes which were 1.75 mm and for the front exhausts I used a 1.70 mm and a 1.65 mm. This was my first bucket type valve adjustment and it went pretty well. Thanks for all the notes and tips. You saved me some time and some bloody knuckles not having to remove the cam chain tensioners especially the rear. The only thing I did different was I removed the shroud after I removed the radiator, It wasn't that hard and I like having plenty of room to work with. The bike has a little over 15K on it now and I was surprised to see the rear exhausts out of spec so soon. Now they are a little towards the loose end, so maybe they won't need adjusting next time. Thanks again.

[UNDERWNG]

I just ordered the HC shims. thanks. I have to get them done before my "more mechanically advanced" buddy moves out of state. He done this before and I haven't so thx to everyone tips makes it seem like a doable procedure.

[ntm]

Kevin,

I'm glad the notes were helpful - and thanks for posting the feedback.

Nick

[knybanjo]

I recommend spinning the motor over a couple of times by hand before stopping at the timing marks and checking clearance.

http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/deal.gif
When I checked clearance for the 1st time it looked like the EX was just a bit too tight.

I turned the engine over a couple of times with the socket wrench and re-checked.

2nd check ....everything was right in the middle of spec!!

I re-checked several more times to confirm and each subsequent check was identical.

Just like the old saying goes...."measure twice...cut once"

[Ecuador]

Thanks for your hard work. I'll be using the print up this weekend.

Vinny.

[PA 650 STROM]

Thanks to all who took time to post information on Valve adjustment also thanks to Warren for posting the valve shim calculator, works great!

[BubbaGee]

Will this information also work on a DL1000?

[twolane]

Quick question- when changing shims should both be checked/done on each cam (for a total of four per cylinder) or is it only necessary to change the shims on the outer valves (for a total of two per cylinder)? Any help would be great as I'm planning on attacking this tomorrow morning.

[greywolf]

Every shim has to be checked.

[twolane]

Thanks greywolf.
Oh and is it normal for the shims to be different sizes on the same cam?

[greywolf]

Thanks greywolf.
Oh and is it normal for the shims to be different sizes on the same cam?Yes it is normal.

[twolane]

Thanks again for the quick response.

[SpaceManSpiff]

Wow good write-up. Thanks.
And thanks for the info on the Hotcam 1.5-1.75 shim refill kit. (only sizes i have needed for both my Wee and a curvy SV650.

[honest bob]

Thanks for this excellent adjunct to the manual. Go ahead, make my day.:thumbup:

[om28]

Thanks for valve adjustment tips, great job. I just did a valve adjustment using these tips along with the service manual and it went smooth, much easier than I thought. The only time I got stumped was getting the rear cam tensioner bolt out. Had trouble getting to it until I decided to take the rear wheel off, a trick no one had mentioned. Great tip on placing a rag under the tensioner to catch oil when you remove the bolt, it also will catch the bolt if it tries to fall into the recesses of the bike.

[Ranger Gabby]

Just finished my first valve adjustment this weekend and thanks to all the helpful tips and advice in this post it wasn't nearly as bad as I was dreading. Even the rear cam tensioner was pretty easy, just a few extensions and a univeral joint... no problem. Both left side intakes needed adjustment. Had a slight rattling after I started it back up, which scared me... until I figured out it was coming from my highway pegs (probably been rattling for months but I never noticed until tonight).