DL1000/650 Front Wheel Removal

[MightyShep]

Tools Required:

• Front Wheel 19mm hex nut (12mm on DL650)
• 10, 12, and 14mm sockets and 3/8” ratchet
• Front wheel stand

Start by securing the bike so that you can safely remove the front tire. Before you do anything make sure that you have one of these guy’s right here…



You won’t be able to remove the front axle without one. I got mine from a local “Cycle Gear” store.
Once you are ready start by removing the bolts that hold the two brake calipers to the forks.





Once you have removed the caliper bolts gently work the calipers off the rotors, and suspend them
With something so they are not hanging from the hose. (Note, mine are supported by monofilament fishing line, that’s why you can’t see it…;)) Take a moment to think about this. Since you are going to be this far into having the bike apart maybe a set of brake pads would be a good idea as well? Think about doubling up on maintenance tasks if you can.





Now loosen the two pinch bolts on the front of the left fork tube (while facing the bike).



Now stick your new tool in here, and start cranking on it…



The axle will thread itself out of the wheel about an inch and a half to two inches. Once you cannot back it out any further,
grab the end and start to work it out of the wheel. It may help to lift up on the wheel to allow easier removal of the axle. Once the axle is out you should have a front tire in your hand.

[MightyShep]

Yeah, I used the ATV jack to rock back on the center stand. I need to buy one of those Front Wheel jacks.

[XLonDL650]

Good Stuff.

Where precisely do you put the wedge to remove the front axle ?

[MightyShep]

Don't need a wedge. Once the axle clears the threads you can just pull it out.

[MightyShep]

What did you do Shep, wear the bike out in Arizona and now you're catching up on maintenance? :) Oh...I got my axle wrench/doodad for free at work:D

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25619
LOL! No, but I put off replceing the wheel bearings until after the trip. Since I'm out of school now I've got time to spend farting around with the bike. I figured it would be a good way to get all the routine stuff documented for the rest of the Strom world.

[Martin]

I believe the required hex bit for unscrewing the axle of the 650 is 12mm... at least it is on my K5.

I found the bit at Amazon... it was about $10 including shipping (couldn't find a 12mm bit locally, I tried).

Can't vouch for the quality yet because I haven't used it... I still haven't done enough riding this year to wear out the remains of my (original) front tire (>21,000 km and still going). :(

Here's a link to the bit...

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-12mm-Hex-Bit-Socket/dp/B000E1Q2M0

- Martin

[MightyShep]

I believe the required hex bit for unscrewing the axle of the 650 is 12mm... at least it is on my K5.

I found the bit at Amazon... it was about $10 including shipping (couldn't find a 12mm bit locally, I tried).

Can't vouch for the quality yet because I haven't used it... I still haven't done enough riding this year to wear out the remains of my (original) front tire (>21,000 km and still going). :(

Here's a link to the bit...

http://www.amazon.com/Dr-12mm-Hex-Bit-Socket/dp/B000E1Q2M0

- Martin
Made the corrections. Thanks

[XLonDL650]

Shep,

What software did you used to document the pictures in these recent 'How To' posts you've made ?

Also, could you give a brief description of what particular menu selections or functions you chose when working with that software package ?

[MightyShep]

Shep,

What software did you used to document the pictures in these recent 'How To' posts you've made ?

Also, could you give a brief description of what particular menu selections or functions you chose when working with that software package ?
Software was pretty spendy......

I used:
Microsoft notepad for the text &
Adobe Photoshop to crop and resize the pic's
total cost $0.00

[Heavy]

You elitist, high-tech, spendaholic, bastard!

What about a solution for us common folk?

[MightyShep]

You elitist, high-tech, spendaholic, bastard!

What about a solution for us common folk?
Here you go...
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0789707225.01._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

[Heavy]

Now you call me an idiot?

[MightyShep]

Now you call me an idiot?
Nope, but if the eShoe fits....;)

[water warrior]

Excellant How To. 2 questions for you though. #1, what did you use for wedges to keep the brake pads from closing up ? #2, would you care to do a rear wheel removable tutorial for us old half blind bald guys. The Wee needs a new rear tire and the front is a might as well do it project after 25000 kms of fun. Thanks.

[MightyShep]

WW,

I didn't wedge the pads as you described. Once I had worked them off the rotor I just made sure that I didn't disturb them. With the caliper off, if you don't bump them around the pads will stay in place. If you want to wedge them in to be safe, a clean dry rag will work.

Rear tire how to is coming up. Along with bearing removal and replacement for both wheels.

[water warrior]

Sounds excellant. Not sure where I read it but I seem to remember the steering head roller bearings are a direct replacement for the front axle ball bearings. Hopefully I can get a confirmation on this and have the local shop pop them in while they do the front tire. Probably a case of overkill but the front will be apart anyway so why not.
Oh, just thought of something. The Wee have a speedo cable on the front wheel. Should this present a problem or is it just a case of undoing it and leaving it off until the front wheel is back on. I would think so but I have a history of making assumptions that lead to disaster. thanks.

[MightyShep]

...The Wee have a speedo cable on the front wheel. Should this present a problem or is it just a case of undoing it and leaving it off until the front wheel is back on. I would think so but I have a history of making assumptions that lead to disaster. thanks.
Can't answer that as I don't ride a Wee. Somebody let us know, huh? :D

[greywolf]

It can hang around with no problem. It's a Hall effect pickup that sends pulses by electrical wire to the instruments. Just make sure it is positioned properly on reassembly. If you don't pay attention there, it's possible to crank the axle down when the sensor is mis-aligned and cause damage.

[MightyShep]

Greywolf,

Caan you snap a pic and I'll add it to the post.

[greywolf]

I can do that.

[water warrior]

I did it, I did it, I did it !!! That was just too easy to be real. Thanks for the info guys, I really had zero problems and only swore at the lack of light in the Bat Cave. Ever notice that a light will shine in your eyes no matter where it is placed ??
The front wheel R and R went very well. The only thing I might add to the info is to remove the 2 clips for the Wee speedo wiring to allow for a little slack and movement wheel pulling the wheel. New tire looks better than the old one. The front did look half decent until I removed it and took a real good look. The start of a bad wear pattern is not something to keep riding on. Now I know why there was some strange feedback on the curves. Did the Loctite thing with re-assembly and no left over parts. Life is good. New rear is on back order for a couple weeks at least.:cool::cool:

[Racingtown]

Thanks for the great write up. I just finished taking my front wheel off. I did end up spending $22 for a 12mm allen socket from the local NAPA. The new tire is being put on tomorrow.

Thanks

[Warhammer]

I just picked up this set at Harbor Freight for $25.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/96200-96299/96224.gif
It comes with: 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm. That'll handle a V or a Wee. They're impact wrench bits, so they should be plenty tough. I really only needed the 19mm, but I do love to add to my tool collection. Oh, here's the direct link: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96224

[marku]

Glad I just browsed this post - supposed to be getting my sonic springs this week and noted that my existing hex set only goes up to 10mm.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98229

For this with wee this $13 set will work.

[nocomplaints]

I haven't pulled mine yet, but the question looms why would you need to remove caliper(s) to pull the front wheel? I've never had to remove calipers for wheel removal on any bike I've had including all sorts of Jap and Austrian bikes.

Thanks for the info.

[Chewy]

I haven't pulled mine yet, but the question looms why would you need to remove caliper(s) to pull the front wheel? I've never had to remove calipers for wheel removal on any bike I've had including all sorts of Jap and Austrian bikes.

Thanks for the info.


Shep's method is correct......remove the calipers or spend a lot more time and experience more grief trying to put the wheel back on. :crying:

[greywolf]

It's easy to remove the calipers and there isn't room for the tire to get between them.

[garandman]

I bought a 12mm hex key at Sears for $8. They also had 17, didn't see 19mm.

Didn't find them anywhere else except some impact sockets, which are 1/2" drive, and I don't carry any 1/2" drive stuff on the road.

[Ranger Gabby]

I bought a 12mm hex key at Sears for $8. They also had 17, didn't see 19mm.

Didn't find them anywhere else except some impact sockets, which are 1/2" drive, and I don't carry any 1/2" drive stuff on the road.


So, this "special tool" the manual refers to is just a 12mm hex wrench??? If that's the case I believe I'll be borrowing one from work. Got all kinds of big metric hex wrenches there:thumbup:

[Black Lab]

I would like to add some comments to this thread. (DL-650 related)

1- Before raising the front end of the bike off of the ground, loosen all of the bolts that you need to; axle pinch bolt, axle bolt, caliper bolts. The bike is more stable for "torquing" on with a wrench, (whether loosening or tightening), with both wheels on the ground and the bike is on its sidestand.

2- You do not need to remove both front, brake calipers to remove the front wheel. Just remove the right caliper. The reason I remove the right caliper is, I am on that side of the bike anyway loosening and tightening the axle and pinch bolts. There is no need to remove the left caliper to remove the front wheel.

B.

[Jim Davis]

Taking the hint from Big Shasta on the other thread, I got to work and made myself a 19mm hex tool for my DL1000's front axle!

Thank you Stromtrooper and thank you Big Shasta!

I took some photos:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/old-socket_0291.jpg


http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/old-socket-new-tool_0292.jpg

Here's a link to the page, some tire changing and balancing photos and tips here too:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/tire_change.html

Now I can't wait for the Tourances to arrive and get them on! I was racking my brains all over the net here in Japan trying to find the tool to do this. All I know is it was a problem and was going to cost me big time.

[Ranger Gabby]

Taking the hint from Big Shasta on the other thread, I got to work and made myself a 19mm hex tool for my DL1000's front axle!

Thank you Stromtrooper and thank you Big Shasta!

I took some photos:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/old-socket_0291.jpg


http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/old-socket-new-tool_0292.jpg

Here's a link to the page, some tire changing and balancing photos and tips here too:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Tire_Change/tire_change.html

Now I can't wait for the Tourances to arrive and get them on! I was racking my brains all over the net here in Japan trying to find the tool to do this. All I know is it was a problem and was going to cost me big time.



I woulda never thunk to do that :cool:

For the odd tool searching you might try Esco http://www.esco-net.com/frame_catalog.html The site is not the greatest but if you can get an actual catalog, they have a large collection of stuff from all over