DL1000/650 Fuel Tank Removal

[MightyShep]

Tools Required:
· 4mm Hex wrench or socket
· (2) 10mm combo wrenches or (1) 10mm wrench and (1) 10mm socket
· ¼ “ or 3/8” drive ratchet and sockets
· Phillips head screwdriver
· Needle nose pliers
· (obligatory six pack joke)
This is a rather straight forward procedure that anyone can accomplish. First off, plan ahead! Wait until you are nearly out of fuel. Nothing worse than pulling a tank with 6 gallons of gas in it. For expediency I’ll present this without completely removing the side panels. First step is to remove all the button heads that are in the way. There are (at minimum) 4 bolts that you need to remove, and two of the plastic rivets.





Once you have removed the two rivets and two button head bolts you can remove the small plastic piece that covers the gas tank bolt.
This bolt is where you’ll need both the 10mm wrenches. A ratchet on one end works okay, but for me I’ve found that the two wrenches goes a little bit quicker.
Remove the nut and pull the bolt out. You may need to lift up a little on the tank thereby relieving any pressure the tank may be applying to the bolt.







Once you have the front bolt out remove the 12mm bolt at the back of the tank.



Now there are two things to disconnect on the left side of the bike, and two to disconnect on the right side of the bike.

Left side first.

Disconnect the fuel pump power leads, and the fuel line itself.





The fuel line has a clip that holds it in place. If you are good enough you can squeeze these between your thumb and forefinger to release the hose. Otherwise you can get a pair of needle nose pliers.



Right side,
There’s a vacuum line for the PAIR system and the fuel overflow drain from the fill ring. Work the hoses off of their nipples.





That’s it. You can now remove the tank. If you didn’t remove the side panels completely, just use some caution when removing and reinstalling the tank. The tank will slide right into position with a little persuasion just watch the top corners of the two side panels. Make sure that they don’t go under the tank bracket.

[stumpy]

Thanks very much for that! Looks like topping off my coolant tank will be easier than I thought!

[Chewy]

Shep,

Great post! With having you and Greywolf, who needs to pay a mechanic anymore!! :var_14:


Thanx!!

[WeThereYet]

Thanks very much for that! Looks like topping off my coolant tank will be easier than I thought!

Or just use an ATF funnel. :D

[james1300]

Thank you very much for taking all the time and effort to post a GREAT 'How-Too'!:thumbsup:
I bet this will save me an hour 'Shop-Time', when I have the Tank removed, for valve inspection and T.B. sync!

[bry_wang]

Right side,
There’s a vacuum line for the PAIR system and the fuel overflow drain from the fill ring. Work the hoses off of their nipples.

Just a note the 650 only has 3 things to disconnect (at least from 04-06):

(from the manual)

FUEL TANK REMOVAL
Lift and support the fuel tank. (-5-7)

Disconnect the fuel pump lead wire coupler 1.
Place a rag under the fuel feed hose and disconnect the fuel
feed hose 2. from the fuel tank.
Disconnect the fuel tank drain hose 3.

[iamsmiling]

Thank you, Mighty Shep for the simple, clear instructions. I now have a brand new air cleaner element!

[ironmorph]

Thanks for the great post, pictures add the greatest advantage!

Clem

[btankersley]

Shep and All,
Firstly, please add my appreciation for the invaluable shared info. Secondly, a couple of questions please. #1...for TB synch, the factory manual says to remove tank, remove air cleaner box, reinstall tank. It later warns about allowing dirt to enter TBs while the air cleaner box is off. Do you guys remove the air cleaner box and if so, why is this necessary. #2... just roughly what should the vacuum level be at 1300 rpm or so?

Again, thanks much for the info.

Respectfully,

Bill T.

[V-Strom Charlie]

Great post! Pictures are worth thousands of words.

[Bowhog1]

Thanks for the pictures...when you disconnect the fuel line do you need a stopper hose or will it not gravity drain ?

[greywolf]

The stopped fuel pump won't let fuel through it. You'll lose only a few drops from the hose.

[drew]

Thank you for your article but my '06 dl1000 has only the overfill drain on the right side, I cannot for the life of me find the vacume hose that you mention for the PAIR system.
What is the PAIR system anyway?
thanks once again for all the terrific info and pic's

[Colin]

Note on removing plastic botton rivets: Don't just try to pry them loose. Push in the center button first and then you can remove them easily. To replace, pull the center post through, put rivet back in place and then insert center post and push it until it clicks into place.

[Nippon Maru]

Excellent post.Thank you for the help !!

[10guy]

Note on removing plastic botton rivets: Don't just try to pry them loose. Push in the center button first and then you can remove them easily. To replace, pull the center post through, put rivet back in place and then insert center post and push it until it clicks into place.


This was a huge help:cheers2:

And thanks to mightyshep for the info on the fuel tank removal:cheers2:

[tomatocity]

Thanks again Shep. Life is simpler (now).

[Mortaine]

What is the PAIR system anyway?

Pulse Air Injection Reaction

pulsed crankcase pressure is used to pump filtered air into the exhaust system to reduce emissions.:confused:

[marku]

Thanks much Shep. I like simple ;)and those photos are great [love that red color]. I like the shop manual OK but it does not seem to have some of the simple procedures Vs clearly which are needed panel removals- at least not on quick read.

I am new to my Strom and read the manual and some posts and figured I had to remove all the cowling stuff becasue I want to [1] install a new air cleaner [2] do the TB Sync (just need for find that other post about installing tubing to TB to allow easier check in future); and figured while I was in there I'd [3] check my valves and [4] install new iridium plugs. I saw something about swinging the radiator forward for the front plug but it looks like cowling/fairing can stay.

Am I correct that I can do 4 items above by just removing tank per your simple 4 bolt/2pin; and then just air cleaner removal and swinging radiator forward? Cool... :)

[RadarMan]

After renewing the air filter and spark plugs, I put the tank back on but forgot where the fuel overflow / drain hose should be routed (I forgot to disconnect it when lifting the tank out).

It does not seem a good idea to have the overflow hose end up at the exhaust pipe or near the chain. Where exactly should it be routed?

EDIT: After another search in the workshop manual, I found the routing of the hose, on page 9-28. See photo below.

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq343/kiwi_Vstrom/fueldrainhoserouting.jpg

[tomatocity]

One thing I found to make the fuel tank removal easier is to prop the rear of the fuel tank up while you are removing the fuel line etc. I used a plastic cap but you can use the rubber and plate that is used to mount the rear of the fuel tank.

[WeThereYet]

I used a plastic cap but you can use the rubber and plate that is used to mount the rear of the fuel tank.

Propping up the tank is what it is designed and built for. See the OM.

[greywolf]

Forget the rubber.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/2903541726_5ab2fd70e8.jpg

[tomatocity]

Propping up the tank is what it is designed and built for. See the OM.

Thanks. Don't have an OM. Guessing you mean Operators Manual.

[tomatocity]

Forget the rubber.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/2903541726_5ab2fd70e8.jpg

Thanks for the photo Greywolf. The other photo I have seen was different. Looks like it was made to be used that way. ;)

[RadarMan]

After renewing the air filter and spark plugs, I put the tank back on but forgot where the fuel overflow / drain hose should be routed (I forgot to disconnect it when lifting the tank out).

It does not seem a good idea to have the overflow hose end up at the exhaust pipe or near the chain. Where exactly should it be routed?

EDIT: After another search in the workshop manual, I found the routing of the hose, on page 9-28. See photo below.


I checked again and found something odd. The hose routing shown on the workshop manual (in my post, 6th above) is NOT from the petrol tank but from the coolant reserve tank. The end of the hose has a clamp which directs it right near the exhaust pipe. For the loose hose from the petrol tank, I directed it behind the rear shock, away from the chain and away from the exhaust.

Could someone check where the petrol overflow and coolant overflow hoses are on their bikes? Thanks. I have a 2005 wee. The workshop manual routing shown in my post above is from a 2004 manual. Greywolf - your bike's coolant reserve tank is located at a different position than mine.

[greywolf]

On the '07, the fuel tank drain hose, mainly for water rather than fuel overfilling, meets the coolant overflow tube near the top of the rear cylinder. They run together and exit near the exhaust pipe, both passing through a guide held by an engine case screw. The '05 is the same as the '04. The manual shows the tube from the plastic coolant reservoir being clamped with another tube of unlisted origin behind the engine and going to the right side, but does not show the exit. The overflow hose from the fuel tank goes the same route as the '07 but is the only hose in the guide attached to the engine case screw.

[Riceburner30281]

very helpful post.. thank you ! Just replaced the spark plugs at 30k , changed the coolant and inspected the K&N while I was at it..

what a pain in the ass taking the fairing and tank off! time to button it back up

[mtnfsh]

Thanks for your post -you saved me a lots of aggravation and a potential FUBAR. I recalled your post and started removing the tank but hit a problem getting the fuel line off from the tank. Before I detroyed the clip I checked your post and found this comment:
The fuel line has a clip that holds it in place. If you are good enough you can squeeze these between your thumb and forefinger to release the hose. Otherwise you can get a pair of needle nose pliers.

I was able to squeeze the clip with my fingers and had no problem at all getting it off. The rest of the air filter replacement was a breeze. Saved big bucks by doing my 11,000 mile service myself.
Thanks again.

[CdnArgyll]

On my K7 Wee the two first buttonhead bolts where the fairing plastic meets the black plastic were outrageously fastened by the stealer after the last TB sync and maintenance. Now, due to my impatience to remove them, they are completely stripped. :(
Now my plan is to drill them out and remove them, but does anybody have the information on a replacement bolt that I could purchase at Home Depot or somewhere like that that would work with the fitting/nut that is already there? Figure it would be better to have the new bolts on hand... and by the looks of it there won't be all that much left of the old ones after to compare at the store.


Thanks in advance...

[greywolf]

They are M6x1.0 threads. Some are shouldered. Exactly which ones are you talking about. I doubt you'll find a large button head screw at Home Depot, much less a stainless steel shouldered one.

[CdnArgyll]

Reference image two of the first post. It's those screws that are stuck with thread lock.
(BTW thanks for the quick response)
edit: The part is 09139-06122: Screw, meter panel, rear side... (or by the manual; combination meter panel mounting screws)

[Hntbmabi]

Try some valve grinding compound on your allen head wrench and give it another shot. I have used this trick many times to remove a socket head screw when the socket is stripped. Also works for phillips head socket that is semi stripped.

[greywolf]

Reference image two of the first post. It's those screws that are stuck with thread lock.
(BTW thanks for the quick response)
edit: The part is 09139-06122: Screw, meter panel, rear side... (or by the manual; combination meter panel mounting screws)Those are not shouldered screws. The hole has a shoulder around it. You would want a wide head.

[TS1000]

Thanks MightyShep and all for the terrific instructions.
I removed my gas tank today to replace my air filter.
The maintenance operation went well except for one thing.
I found the cushion, P/N 44541-06G00 (black rubber block) , on the ground after I had everything else back into place. It stuck to the gas tank as I removed it and fell off in transit before I placed the tank down.
So, my question is, where does the cushion go, and is it so critical that I should install it immediately? Or, say next weekend?

[Azure]

I did my oil change today (just before the thunderstorm hit!--I got a few drops of rain on me as I filled the last of the oil). I wasn't going to attempt to check my air cleaner in a thunderstorm, and I had to leave for work.

Had I had the time, and the weather, I still would have freaked about what there is to see in the owner's manual regarding getting at the air cleaner--removing the fuel tank?!

So I would have rushed right into the house to beg for help here on stromtrooper.com, and as it turns out, HEY, there's a STICKY about doing just what I need to do!

Hopefully when I attempt this operation on Thursday (tomorrow), I won't totally fudge it up and render my Wee unable to head to NY on Friday! Fingers crossed... :)
And thanks for the how-to, I'm much obliged.

[mtnfsh]

I did my oil change today (just before the thunderstorm hit!--I got a few drops of rain on me as I filled the last of the oil). I wasn't going to attempt to check my air cleaner in a thunderstorm, and I had to leave for work.

Had I had the time, and the weather, I still would have freaked about what there is to see in the owner's manual regarding getting at the air cleaner--removing the fuel tank?!

So I would have rushed right into the house to beg for help here on stromtrooper.com, and as it turns out, HEY, there's a STICKY about doing just what I need to do!

Hopefully when I attempt this operation on Thursday (tomorrow), I won't totally fudge it up and render my Wee unable to head to NY on Friday! Fingers crossed... :)
And thanks for the how-to, I'm much obliged.

I can attest that removing the gas tank to get to the air filter is no problem at all if you rely on the detailed instructions here.

I was doing it from memory and the only point that had me hung up was removing the fuel line from the tank. I forgot that the connection has points on both sides that have to be pressed down.

"The fuel line has a clip that holds it in place. If you are good enough you can squeeze these between your thumb and forefinger to release the hose. Otherwise you can get a pair of needle nose pliers."

Piece of cake after that. My only observation about my air filter is that it looked almost too clean to replace. I guess I just don't hit enough dusty trails to get the air filter really dirty. ;)

[tomatocity]

I did my oil change today (just before the thunderstorm hit!--I got a few drops of rain on me as I filled the last of the oil). I wasn't going to attempt to check my air cleaner in a thunderstorm, and I had to leave for work.

Had I had the time, and the weather, I still would have freaked about what there is to see in the owner's manual regarding getting at the air cleaner--removing the fuel tank?!

So I would have rushed right into the house to beg for help here on stromtrooper.com, and as it turns out, HEY, there's a STICKY about doing just what I need to do!

Hopefully when I attempt this operation on Thursday (tomorrow), I won't totally fudge it up and render my Wee unable to head to NY on Friday! Fingers crossed... :)
And thanks for the how-to, I'm much obliged.

Did you pay attention to post #23? It shows how the rear of the tank is raised with the bracket. This makes disconnecting the fuel line and electrical connector much simpler.

Doubtful problem but it can happen. Pay attention to how the plastic fastener on the fuel line is positioned. There is a crimp on the fuel line and a notch on the plastic fastener and they must be aligned. Afriend connected this on my Vee after we adjusted the valves. The parts were not aligned and he fastened it with only one of the plactic clips. 10 miles later I was out of gas on a very bust freeway. after I got home it only took 15 minutes to find the problem, make the proper connection and button up the tank and plastic.

[ajs]

Are there suppose to be pictures included with the instructions given in post #1?

I am not seeing any pictures and pictures would help.

[greywolf]

The author has made them unavailable. See http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7566.0.html for a complete procedure.

[Arne]

Those are not shouldered screws. The hole has a shoulder around it. You would want a wide head.

A little off topic, GW do you happen to know off hand what the thread/inch(mm) is on that long fuel tank mounting bolt in the front?

[greywolf]

It's an M6x1.0 but I don't know how long it is.

[Arne]

It's an M6x1.0 but I don't know how long it is.

Thank you.

[Black Lab]

From the top of the hex head to the bottom of the threads, 10cm, or just about 4" long, (if I am understanding the question correctly.)

[Arne]

From the top of the hex head to the bottom of the threads, 10cm, or just about 4" long, (if I am understanding the question correctly.)

Great, now I can just make one without having to take it apart. Thanks.

[Black Lab]

Those are not shouldered screws. The hole has a shoulder around it. You would want a wide head.

A workaround, (yet not as attractive as the OEM screw), is to do a little shopping at your local Lowe's. My local branch has an aisle with drawer, upon drawer of different fastenings and related items.

It is not inconceivable to find the proper sized stainless steel, metric bolt, the proper sized stainless steel flat washer, and a proper sized bushing.

Slide the washer over the threads and up to the head of the bolt. Slide the bushing, (probably have to trim it down), up to the washer. You now have a "wide head - shouldered" bolt.

B.

[dtalk]

Now, due to my impatience to remove them, they are completely stripped. :(

N.B.: Replace your hex keys or drivers when they show wear. They're cheaper than the time it'll take you to remove and replace a damaged bolt.

Friendly voice of experience.

Cheers ...