poor idle, dying at stops

[Dave]

Anyone experience this?

0-600 miles the bike runs great, only time I experienced stalls was one tank of premium. Posts off this site set me straight on using 87 octane.

After 600 mile service the bike stalls at stops, seems more sluggish/surgy below 3500 rpm. Also, I noticed that the rear wheel alignment was an entire index mark out of adjustment.
Return to shop and they bump the idle from 900 where they had it to 1200. This helps but the problem persists, especially on hot days. Often the tach takes a dive below 1000 when stopping but usuall, but not always catches itself and bumps back to 1200, where it cant decide if it wants to stay at or surge between 1200 and 1300 rpm.

Back to the shop yesterday and asked them to double check everything they reset. Mechanic calls back today to tell me they rode the bike, checked the TPS and they think it runs fine. My first reaction was 1) Did they check the TBS? He didn't know and 2) Keep it until you double check everything set at the 600 mile check.

Now, I need a reality check from other owners. Am I just being picky or should this bike run perfect? This is my fifth Suzuki street bike and I always just get the service manual and end up figuring out this stuff for myself but at the moment I'd really like them to take it seriously and not blow me off with "could not duplicate".

Thanks for the forum to vent and hopefully get some input on this.

Dave

[replaced]

Mine did it initially, and after 11K miles, it is doing more than ever. When I stop abrubtly, it shuts off. The surging is enhanced when I am trying to ride around 30-35 mph and hovering around the 3K rpm mark. It is getting very annoying.

On the yahoogroups forum, there has been much discussion about this issue. I cannot tolerate the format, so I don't know if it is a current issue over there or not. You can do a search on it but good luck.

Dan's FAQ's may have some information too. My dealer informed me that he has the information for the surging issue. Maybe it will take care of my stalling problem.

Now when I go to stop, I instinctivly place my thumb on the start button.
Brendan #653

[Dave]

Brendan,

Have you re-synced the throttle bodies, did this make a difference? Also, what did the shop find out about the surging?

Thanks,

Dave

[RiffRaff]

mine did not run too badly when new but it did die on me once or twice. I also had some back firing on decel that started at about 600 miles. At the first service I had 880 miles on it.

The dealer synced the TBs as well as the usual checking bolts for tightness...etc.

The sync made a world of difference! No more stalling, more bottom end power, smoother running over all.

It hasn't stalled on me since and I now have 3000 miles on it.

[Steve Davis]

My bike had some minor surging and stalled a few times when new. Here's what cured these traits for me.

A mechanic enriched the fuel injection 5% in the low and mid ranges using a Yosh Box. The Yosh Box is owned by many Suzuki mechanics and it connects to a connector which can be fished out from behind the left side panel near the front of the seat. This costs $20-$30.

If it continues to stall, raise the idle a bit more. Stock tachometers aren't very accurate.

Steve

[replaced]

I haven't had a chance to get them synced yet. I crashed (destroyed) my Land Rover last week so my V-Strom is my only transportation at the moment. As soon as I can pick up another vehicle, I will send the V-Strom to the shop. Hopefully it will make a difference.

Brendan


http://www.redbirdsra.com/Crash_1_small.jpg

[john stewart]

i had a couple of stall before my 600mile check. did it myself. pretty much change oil and make sure nothing is going to fall off.

i did the 4kmile check, did the tps adj, and the tb sync. bike runs better. both procedures are in the faqs at yahoo. and yes i hate that site layout also, but info is info.

i had one stall last week, but i now have my idle set at 900rpm, so its my fauld.

beers

[replaced]

Here is an angle that I have realized over the last month. If I use 87-89 Octane, my motor is more apt to stall and seems to surge more than if I use 92 Octane.
Brendan

[Dave]

I took my bike back to the shop last week. It was raining so I let them know I was in no hurry to get it back until it was running right. It took them a while to finally come around and "discover" for themselves what I was talking about; after that they were all over it.
So, they put it on an exhaust gas anylizer at another shop and discovered it was running way too lean, .5 of something when it should have been 2.0. They changed the mapping to richen it up and it runs great now!
Strong idle and way better power at lower rpm's. I knew this bike should be pulling the front wheel up more...:)

Dave

[Kidder]

Dave,

That's good to know. I was starting to wonder about the reliability or the # of problems with the Strom.

Looks like a Power Commander should be on everyone's short list. Do you know what map he used or what he did to richen it? I don't know anything about FI, so excuse my ignorance.

[JerryB]

i had a couple of stall before my 600mile check. did it myself. pretty much change oil and make sure nothing is going to fall off.

i did the 4kmile check, did the tps adj, and the tb sync. bike runs better. both procedures are in the faqs at yahoo. and yes i hate that site layout also, but info is info.

i had one stall last week, but i now have my idle set at 900rpm, so its my fauld.

beers

I've been meaning to ask someone, I don't relish the thought of paying the dealer $100+ to change the oil and tighten bolts (especially since I found loose fasteners when I got home with 76 miles on the odo and went over top to bottom myself) They can't give you any guff (warranty wise) if you do your own servicing can they? I've always done my own, but the FI mapping I'll have to leave to a pro.

JB

[JerryB]

i had a couple of stall before my 600mile check. did it myself. pretty much change oil and make sure nothing is going to fall off.

i did the 4kmile check, did the tps adj, and the tb sync. bike runs better. both procedures are in the faqs at yahoo. and yes i hate that site layout also, but info is info.

i had one stall last week, but i now have my idle set at 900rpm, so its my fauld.

beers

I've been meaning to ask someone, I don't relish the thought of paying the dealer $100+ to change the oil and tighten bolts (especially since I found loose fasteners when I got home with 76 miles on the odo and went over top to bottom myself) They can't give you any guff (warranty wise) if you do your own servicing can they? I've always done my own, but the FI mapping I'll have to leave to a pro.

JB

I took my bike back to the shop last week. It was raining so I let them know I was in no hurry to get it back until it was running right. It took them a while to finally come around and "discover" for themselves what I was talking about; after that they were all over it.
So, they put it on an exhaust gas anylizer at another shop and discovered it was running way too lean, .5 of something when it should have been 2.0. They changed the mapping to richen it up and it runs great now!
Strong idle and way better power at lower rpm's. I knew this bike should be pulling the front wheel up more...:)

Dave

A buddy of mine with an FJR discovered the same problem. Many FJRs have a surging problem. His didn't...Until he decided to sync his injectors and make sure every thing was set "where it should be". After adjusting things the way he was supposed to according to the book, it surged like crazy around 3k. It seems there is an adjustment that affect idle. He richened up that adjustment, and the bike ran fine. I'd say, you guys might try richening up your idle adjustment. It's probably too lean setting up a wierd feedback loop causing surge/shut downs. (lot's of bikes have this problem to pass emissions)

Good luck, and get this worked before I get my 'Strom...... :lol:

Elseanno

[Bradley A. Convis]

I have been sitting on this bike for months in the dealership I work in. Now I finally have one of my own! I decided not to get the FJR1300 that I had a deposit on since March. No regrets on that decision!

Already have a center stand and a Cee Baily tall screen installed. I LOVE this bike! It runs great at speed and coming up through the gears.

BUT - having surging and missing at low/moderate speeds. I cannot mainain a constant speed in 2nd or 3rd gear without it stumbling or caughing - even with consistent trottle. I see that everyone reccommends 87 octane, synching the throttle boddies, and checking the TPS. Stalling at stops seems to be taken care of by higher idle (1300). We have done all above and it has made a difference but having problems still. Next we will replace the $20 spark plugs (EEEK!!) and check the air filter when they do my break-in service. Any other ideas?

Is a Power Commander the only solution to smooth things out?

[Bob Bernstein]

I had the same problem as previously reported by so many, in general bike was very disappointing. Dealer synced throttle bodies,etc etc. Computer remapped and set to run at 8% or whatever that means?? and now it's the amazing bike I had long expected.

[tx2whlr]

I've had this same problem since new,2000mls now.I'm now actively seeking a suzuki mechanic in the dfw area that owns a yosh box and knows how to use it as the mechanics at the dealer I bought it from just look at me funny every time I bring up the subject of richening up the mixture @ the lower rpm settings.I kind of miss carburators sometimes,a half turn of the idle mixture screw and maybe a pilot jet change would fix this conditon on a carb'd bike but on this one you have to spend $300 for a pc3 and maybe another $250 for a dynotune,a little outrageous to get a brand new completely stock bike to run the way it should when delivered. :x but thats progress.

[Bob Bernstein]

I did not have to do those things!

[BBurton "BigB"]

Here is an angle that I have realized over the last month. If I use 87-89 Octane, my motor is more apt to stall and seems to surge more than if I use 92 Octane.

Must be midwest gas.... I am right there with ya!!! My bike likes high octane only. :lol:

[shpclay]

Try setting the idle up. It cured the problem for me.

[randy_b]

I had the exact same experienc with my DL1000K3 when it was new. First, it ran great for the first 600 miles, then I took it in for service and the first thing I noticed was it surged below 3-3500 rpms, then popped, farted and died at stops- a lot. Another thing I saw was that the chain adjustment was off by a FULL index mark. Did we have the same person work on our bikes (aurora suzuki in seattle)? After about 5 trips back I finally got them to accept that it was not running right and I told them to keep it until it did. They finally put it on an exhaust gas analyzer at another shop and found out that they had it running WAY too lean. Once they set the FI mapping by what was coming out of the exhaust it ran great but it took forever to get some decent work out of them. By far I find that the level of knowledge found on this site greatly exceeds that of shop where I bought my bike and I pretty much refuse to let them do another thing too it.

That's my way more than 2 cents worth.

Randy

[lucifer]

I had the exact same experienc with my DL1000K3 when it was new. First, it ran great for the first 600 miles, then I took it in for service and the first thing I noticed was it surged below 3-3500 rpms, then popped, farted and died at stops- a lot. Another thing I saw was that the chain adjustment was off by a FULL index mark. Did we have the same person work on our bikes (aurora suzuki in seattle)? After about 5 trips back I finally got them to accept that it was not running right and I told them to keep it until it did. They finally put it on an exhaust gas analyzer at another shop and found out that they had it running WAY too lean. Once they set the FI mapping by what was coming out of the exhaust it ran great but it took forever to get some decent work out of them. By far I find that the level of knowledge found on this site greatly exceeds that of shop where I bought my bike and I pretty much refuse to let them do another thing too it.

That's my way more than 2 cents worth.

Randy
Take it to Eastside Motosports in Bellevue. I got a few freinds there and they are a good crew (hot chicks work there too).

[BradM]

JerryB wrote:
I've been meaning to ask someone, I don't relish the thought of paying the dealer $100+ to change the oil and tighten bolts (especially since I found loose fasteners when I got home with 76 miles on the odo and went over top to bottom myself) They can't give you any guff (warranty wise) if you do your own servicing can they? I've always done my own, but the FI mapping I'll have to leave to a pro.

JB

There is a Federal Law, the Moss-Magnuson Act, that covers warranty issues. It allows a vehicle owner to preform the required services without taking the bike back to the dealer if it is documented that the services were performed, meaning a warranty cannot be voided because you did the work yourself.

It also covers other areas like adding aftermarket parts to a vehicle and unless it can be proven that the aftermarket part directly caused a problem requiring service the dealer cannot void the warranty. Like adding a different exhaust sytem and the electrical system has a problem while under warranty, unless the new exhaust burned wiring the the problem must be fixed under warranty.

[BBurton "BigB"]

I found that my engine stalling at stops was cured NOT by increasing the idle, but by properly adjusting my throttle cables "which the dealer didn't"! My bike hasn't died on me even 1 time since I adjusted. :) Still have some surging and intake backfires at low RPM's even after a TBS adjustment. Gonna meet up with a service rep hopefully next week for a Yosh box tune!!

[CDN_RN]

Beware of MMA, it not as bulletproof as some people think. If you install a Power Commander, a headlight will still be replaced under warranty. If you install a Power Commander and you blow your engine, you're fooked.

[Woofy]

Ditto for me, although in the winter it will still stall on occasion. I found that increasing the idle to 1400-1500 rpm in cold weather months prevented the problem. When the weather warms up, I set the idle back down.

[BradM]

Beware of MMA, it not as bulletproof as some people think. If you install a Power Commander, a headlight will still be replaced under warranty. If you install a Power Commander and you blow your engine, you're fooked.

Not so unless the dealer can show the map used caused the failure. Like running to lean of a map and holing a piston but the dealer MUST prove the fuel map was the cause. The burden of proof is on the dealer, not the owner.

SEMA, Speciality Equipment Manufacturers Assn. has fought this particular issue in the automotive world in court and has won several times. The cases in particular were where someone installed a "chip" in their car for better performance and had an engine failure and the dealer denied the claim, the dealer had to honor the warranty and pay punitive damages.