Switch Placement

[cjlindberg]

Related to my previous thread on electrics, where have people put voltmeters and multiple switches? Trying to keep it clean, logical and accessable to the left hand while driving.

Thanks,

Jon
07 ABS
Boise

[rotorhead]

I've placed the switches for my heated grips and Gerbings heated jacket Heatroller on the fairing's black panel immediately under the left grip. The toggle switch to turn off one headlight when using both of the previously mentioned switches resides on the panel under the right grip.

[roger123]

I've placed the switches for my heated grips and Gerbings heated jacket Heatroller on the fairing's black panel immediately under the left grip. The toggle switch to turn off one headlight when using both of the previously mentioned switches resides on the panel under the right grip.

How did you install the headlight switch? Is it just an in line switch that kills one headlight. I run a gerbing jacket, gloves and heated grips and I'm concerned about the Wee's charging system being up to the task. Easily being able to kill a headlight would be a big plus.

[bobosmite]

Depending on what you want in a voltmeter, you could go this route: http://picasaweb.google.com/bobosmite/VoltageMonitorFuseBlock

[cjlindberg]

How did you install the headlight switch? Is it just an in line switch that kills one headlight. I run a gerbing jacket, gloves and heated grips and I'm concerned about the Wee's charging system being up to the task. Easily being able to kill a headlight would be a big plus.


I would do as you suggest, a heavy duty switch on one headlight. Now to chose which light so to keep the most visability to the cagers.

[Tollster]

I have a link I saved for my next switch upgrade. I havecompleted the harness work, fuse box and relays. I am wired up the the front fairing harness boot using molex connectors in a 4 pin flat configuration. This winter I will add some switches and see what accesories I want.
I have saved this link after loking at all available switches that would work in a maritime environment. I thought the black plastic "horse collar" would be the best location and would fair best in this application, so I choose a switch plate that would disperse the load over the thinner plastic wall, increasing rigidity when pushing switches. The 4 spade flat molex would be helpful in the fair boot location if and when I have to remove the fairing for service and such. I am leaning towards the 2 or 4 switch design.
http://www.bepmarine.com/showproduct.cfm?productid=1071

Not sure about the stock labels though, Bilge Pump? Sure to be a good topic at the next vista stop...for sure! :)
Toll

Heres the link for the full boat....no pun intended...hehhhe
http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=110272616860

[Brasstax]

Not sure about the stock labels though, Bilge Pump? Sure to be a good topic at the next vista stop...for sure! :)
Toll

Heres the link for the full boat....no pun intended...hehhhe
http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=110272616860

OMG I need a bilge pump on my bike too!

[cruces strom]

OMG I need a bilge pump on my bike too!

LOL, I may not have two exhaust pipes, but I have a bilge! It would be something that Vees want that Wees have.

[rotorhead]

How did you install the headlight switch? Is it just an in line switch that kills one headlight. I run a gerbing jacket, gloves and heated grips and I'm concerned about the Wee's charging system being up to the task. Easily being able to kill a headlight would be a big plus.Yes, be very concerned! I had run a voltmeter for a while after I bought my bike and carefully watched and recorded voltage with various accessories. With the grips and Gerbings jacket both on high, at speed the voltage was holding at around 12.9 or so with both headlights on low beam. Switch to high beam and voltage was down to about 12.4. Come to a stop with the lights on low and I could easily see the lights dim as voltage plummeted and the battery was discharging. With one headlight switched off there is plenty of voltage for the accessories, even at a stop.

The voltage issue may not be a problem for some people, but I leave for my daily 116 mile roundtrip commute at 4 am and so rely on high beams extensively. I commute year round unless there's ice on the road, so that voltage for gear is important to me. My toggle switch removes power from the right headlight, and I'd honestly say that I only lose 5 to 10% of the lighting, most of that noticeable naturally on the extreme right side. Not like I'm going into right hand turns blind or anything. I cut the low and high beam positive wires near the headlight, soldered extra wire to both and ran those wires to the switch on the fairing panel. Works great, cheap and easy mod.