Engine bolt removal for crashbars

[artcore]

Was trying to install my new Givi crashbars last night, after getting the bike (DL650K7) back from its first service.

What kind of tool do you use to get the bolts out??? I tried my standard size hex key (you know, the little L-shaped job) and none of them would budge even a micron - it seemed the wrench would break off long before the bolts would move. What do I need to buy and where would I find it?

You can tell, I'm not the 'mechanic - type'.

[SCraig]

The bolts have Locktite on them, and you're going to have a hard time getting them out with that tool. What you need is a hex socket that fits the bolt and either a ratchet or breaker bar. Any place that sells tools will have them, but you can probably borrow one from a friend. Also get a tube of Locktite for putting them back in and a wire brush to clean the old Locktite off the bolts.

Word of advice: Follow the instructions and do one side at a time. If you pull all the bolts from both sides the engine has no support and can shift down some. I've heard it's a bear to get it back up to get the bolts back in.

[klong]

Was trying to install my new Givi crashbars last night, after getting the bike (DL650K7) back from its first service.

What kind of tool do you use to get the bolts out??? I tried my standard size hex key (you know, the little L-shaped job) and none of them would budge even a micron - it seemed the wrench would break off long before the bolts would move. What do I need to buy and where would I find it?

You can tell, I'm not the 'mechanic - type'.

Go to Sears, etc., and look for the metric allen wrench set that is mounted in sockets; you can then use a ratchet to loosen / tighten (torque properly!) the bolts.
I use mine all the time, and would be lost w/ out them.

KevinL

[spongebob218]

A good set of ball end t-handle allen wrenches makes working on these bikes much easier, especially getting to the fairing bolts after the bars are on.

You may want to go get good stainless steel bolts instead of using the ones that came with the bars, some people have had problems with the Givi bolts breaking.

[TomStromie]

I used a standard hex wrench, but I turned it using an adjustable wrench.

It's a little scary on the first one, but they come right out once the Locktite bond is broken.

[artcore]

Any place that sells tools will have them, but you can probably borrow one from a friend.

LOL, you don't know my friends - much more likely to have a conducting baton, the complete works of Franz Kafka or a bottle of 1982 Chateau Lafite than a wrench. Heck, they probably think I'm a redneck because I know what a wrench looks like.

Anyway, went to Sears, as suggested, and got a bit set and a better wrench ($45 together - ouch). the bolts came out great. I did the 'passenger side' first. No prob - used blue locktite as suggested. Fit great. tightened the bolts untile they were all the way in and offered some resistance but didn't really tighten them down.

Then did the 'driver's side. Took out the four bolts, attached the bar, replaced the bottom two bolth with the Givi bolts - went in like butter. But then, when I tried to replace the upper two bolts, it seemed the engine had shifted down a bit. I have no idea how that could have happened! the other side was almost completely tightened and the bottom two bolts went in great. Anyway, thought I was screwed but the managed to somehow get one of the bolts in somewhat at an angle and got lucky: it levered the engine back up, got the other bolt in, pulled the first one back out in got it in straight.

The connecting bolt and nut that gave so many folks trouble went in perfectly to. And then it was on to tighten "screw #7" - the two screws that attach the plate to the bars - the ones you are not supposed to tighten until the bar are on. What? Who? Where? How? HOW????? Are they on crack?? I'm sure some of you have some magic low-profile wrench with a short hex bit, but fore the rest of us it's: 10 minutes to get the little L-wrench in the hole (agonizing pain in your hand meanwhile) - turn 1/8 turn. Rinse. Repeat 10 times or so. An hour of agony but they're tight now.

Thanks again to all who have posted, without the list I wouldn't have used locktite and would most likely have sheared off the Givi bolts as well. (Someday I will replace them with stainless steel bolts - just have no clue where to find such a bolt.) And I probably wouldn't have been able to get the old bolts out anyways.