Valve adjustments DL650

[zed88]

This is a rough guideline to help supplement the service manual.

This is also a good time to:
Add extensions and Sync Throttle bodies
Wire in farkles in the front fairings
Flush your cooling system
Replace your sparkplugs
Replace your airfilter

Its not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be. It required patience, planning and calm.

Through the whole process I carefully laid out parts, took notes, and labeled everything. The dealers in the area wanted a ton of money to do it, and frankly I wanted to know that it was actually done and not just glanced at. Use a good torque wrench, as you don't want to strip any of these threads. You can reuse your valve cover seals, but keep a spare around (about $16). You can also use black RTV sealent if you have a leak. Read the entire procedure all the way through first, as it skips around some!

Carefully laid out parts and my beverage of choice
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05220.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05244.jpg

I removed the radiator. If done properly only 1 connector needs to come undone. I did splash some coolant around. Have a bucket handy to catch leaks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05218.jpg

Front valve cover off and being checked. Its easiest to get to this if you remove the radiator and turn the handlebars away from you while working.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05205.jpg

Pictures of rear valve with covers taken off. Place a rag over it when not in use so you don't get any gunk in it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05207.jpg

Checking the rear clearances
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05206.jpg
Taking off a "journal" The journal bolts are special high strength so keep them together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05239.jpg

Rear cover with "journals" (things on top) taken off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05208.jpg

Rear cam's and chain with cam chain guard removed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05209.jpg

Another angle
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05208.jpg

Marking on cam gears. Just like the service manual shows.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05215.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05217.jpg

What it looks like inside the generator timing cover with stuff showing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/zed88/bike/valve%20adjustment/DSC05228.jpg

[zed88]

The entire writeup is found here: http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=125673192092

[james1300]

Very Cool! This stuff interests the heck out of me. You make it look alot EZer. Except for the banged up lunch hooks! :D

[roger123]

Well I just dove into the valve adjust on my K7 Wee with 23K on the clock.

Here's my pre-adjust measurements:

Front:
L EX - .008 R EX - .010
L IN - .005 R IN - .006

Rear:
L IN - .007 R IN - .007
L EX - .010 R EX - .009

Basesd on these measurements I decided to only adjust the Front L EX as it was right at the spec. It currently has a 165 shim and I'll be putting in a 160 (when I get my kit hopefully tomorrow, come on UPS man!!).

I tried like heck to loosen the tensioner so I wouldn't have to remove it but I just couldn't get it to pop. It's a pretty simple matter to pull it so no big deal here.

Here's some pics to supplement the great ones by Zed88.

All appropriate reference material laid out (thanks a bunch to Nick (ntm) for putting together the word document on this procedure):

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/40894/2089976220042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Up in the air to ease the back pain

http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/479/2558428100042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Fuel gauge connector with the actual fuel line above and to the left

http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/38479/2479207980042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Yikes, what a mess!!

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/18230/2839064500042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

There's an engine in there somewhere

http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/43685/2562422890042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

This hose (Reed Valve) was rubbing on the rear valve cover so I wrapped some tape around the frayed end

http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/42679/2690282720042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Two bolts and the coolant expansion tank is out of the way providing more access

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/4400/2861218020042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Finally, the rear cylinder emerges

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/42212/2539555140042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Plugs weren't in the best of shape (original), they all looked about the same. I was surprised how bad they looked actually.

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/31369/2127086210042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Valve cover gasket, note the sealant from the factory on the "half moons"

http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/22365/2554753700042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

[roger123]

Watch out for this little bugger, it's the o-ring for the reed valve, I noticed it sitting near the cam after removing the cover and had an "oh oh" moment.

http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/43419/2714903470042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

I didn't pull the radiator, just the hoses and held it forward with a bungie cord

http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/17927/2861004530042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Cam and bucket removed. I used a ty-wrap to keep tension on the cam chain. This to me is the part that has me the most concerned, I really don't want to mess up the cam timing on this thing!!

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/43440/2955795030042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Shot of the cam itself

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/42363/2740566390042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Tensioner

http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/36916/2683379950042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

Overall this is not that hard of a job but it is tedious. I have a good selection of tools and have been wrenching on things for many years, once you jump in it's really not that bad.

Tomorrow I'll swap the shim (if the UPS man comes), button it up, put in new plugs and coolant, clean up the plastic that was removed and fire it up.

[Wee-tard]

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/18230/2839064500042150490S600x600Q85.jpg

There's an engine in there somewhere

Sorry, I had to chuckle when I noticed you removed the instrument cluster yet bungied the radiator :p

Thanks for the pics and write up....good stuff!

[Media Weasel]

The entire writeup is found here: http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=125673192092
Not any more...

[greywolf]

Not any more...Now that is at http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3595.0.html