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  #21  
Old 12-11-2012, 02:14 AM
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<<A Battery stored between 5C - 10C will hold it's charge longer than if stored at room temp...>>

According to an online temp convertor that's 41 - 50 degrees Fahrenheit. I live at 5700 ft elevation where the night time lows are often in the 0 - 20F range (and sometimes the day time highs!), and I have difficulty conceiving that such temperatures are good for a battery. I usually remove a battery and put it inside for wintertime storage or use a battery tender which I have been told helps a battery compensate for extreme cold by generating a little warmth inside it, but I'm not certain if these are the best ways to deal with the situation.

My impression (perhaps incorrect) is that the previous comments about cold weather storage are not about temperatures as low as I experience, and any opinions about the best way to deal with these more extreme cold temperatures would be appreciated.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net
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  #22  
Old 12-11-2012, 03:44 AM
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Mike, I am in Missoula and it gets a tad chilly here as well, been wondering the same thing as you......i figure, it cant hurt to put that battery either on a tender and / or keep it a bit warmer than the 20 degree temps my garage can fall to.
What part of Idaho are you in? I ride Idaho alot in the summer, just love it.
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Last edited by bigskydrift; 12-11-2012 at 03:54 AM.
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  #23  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigskydrift View Post
Mike, I am in Missoula and it gets a tad chilly here as well, been wondering the same thing as you......i figure, it cant hurt to put that battery either on a tender and / or keep it a bit warmer than the 20 degree temps my garage can fall to.
What part of Idaho are you in? I ride Idaho alot in the summer, just love it.
.


I live a few miles east of Ashton, first town south of Island Park. I ride a lot in Montana and love riding there as you do in Idaho (perhaps a case of "the grass is always greener...."?). Actually, we are both fortunate to have such beautiful riding country right out of our garages. I always try to do at least one long ride in Montana each year, and last fall my wife an I did a ride from home up the Front Range, then east to the Bear Paw Battlefield monument, and then a meandering route home. If you are in this area please don't hesitate to contact me.

I'm on Happy Trails email list and by coincidence this morning there was a piece from them on winterizing in my inbox. I've copied and pasted the text below. I'm sure it's all good advice but I certainly don't do all of those things, but perhaps I should do more than I do.

Mike
Idaho
www.rtwrider.net

From Happy Trails:

<<Every year we use our motorcycles from early spring until late fall, some with little to no maintenance, others with little more than a chain-lube, a clean air filter, and fresh oil and filter. Over the years we've put on several clinics in early winter to cover the things most riders fail to take care of. We have seen KLR, DR and DRZ swing arm bolts that had to be destroyed, as water and grime had caused corrosion which made removing them impossible.

The rear suspension needs to be cleaned and lubed. Wheel and steering head bearings should be checked and lubed. You might say, "Hey, my bike is new and doesn't need it for awhile." It has been our experience that all bikes have a universal lack of lubrication from the factory.

No matter what bike you ride the information here will be helpful for you, as most bikes have the same general points to cover.

1) Wheel bearings: Are they the OEM non-sealed type? How are the bearing seals? Most non-sealed wheel bearings have very little grease in them. After a few water crossings or overzealous cleaning with a power sprayer there's no grease left. If you remove the OEM wheel bearings I recommend you have new bearings on hand and ready to go. Grease your new wheel bearings before installing.

2) Steering Head: Check the front forks before removing them. If there is play in the steering head they need to be replaced. If you do not have a bearing press, have a shop make these repairs for you. If the bearings are good, then clean them, grease them and reinstall the steering head per service manual instructions.

3) Front forks: Now is a great time to service your front forks. If you don't have a service manual, get one before starting this process. Disassemble and inspect the forks. The bushings at the joint of the fork tubes have a Teflon coating; if they are showing a copper color replace them. Clean and inspect the forks, refill them to the correct level with the correct weight oil, and then reassemble. Note that your fork oil should be replaced on a yearly basis.

4) Rear suspension: Disassemble the rear swing arm; remove and inspect the rear shock. This is a great time to have the shock serviced, which should be done by a suspension expert. Clean and lube the shock absorber linkage. If the needle bearing grease is clean and not contaminated I recommend re-lubing without cleaning the old grease out. Be careful with the needle bearings, because if you lose one you need to replace the kit. When removing the swing arm bolt take care not to damage the threads. These bolts can become corroded over time causing them to seize up and making them extremely difficult to remove. If you encounter this, soak it with penetrating oil and let it sit. Note that getting it out may take several attempts. There are bearings inside the sleeve that need to be lubed. These are also needle bearings, so if they need to be cleaned be very careful. When everything is cleaned and lubed start your reassembly.

5) Antifreeze: Change the coolant in your bike.

6) Drive train: Check the final drive fluid and change if needed. Clean, check and lube the chain and sprockets.

7) Cables: Inspect, clean and lube all cables.

Brakes: Check brake pads and change brake fluid. Inspect the calipers, looking for excessive wear on one side and not the other. If they are not functioning properly you may need to clean and lube them or have them rebuilt.

9) Fuel: If you are storing your bike, use a good fuel stabilizer. It also helps to use a good non-ethanol gas when storing a bike.

10) Batteries: If the bike is not being ridden on a regular basis, use a battery tender to extend the life of the battery.

11) Tools: Depending on the type of bike you have you may need Torx bits, Allen wrenches, Phillips head and flat head screw drivers, a rubber or plastic mallet, bearing and race drivers, Metric wrenches and sockets, a Torque wrench and a shop manual.

12) Supplies: Cable lube, waterproof grease, anti freeze, fuel stabilizer, shop towels and cleaning solvent.>>
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  #24  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:50 PM
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Most modern cables are Teflon lined including all V-Stroms. Leave them alone. Grease the barrel ends instead.
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Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2012, 02:09 PM
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You beat me to it Liketoride2. I am on the Happy Trails list too and saw the e-mail. (off topic - thumbs-up on their center-stand).
My winterize program is a little different - the bike is my primary commuter and I'll keep riding. But, when it warms up I'll take some time and do some of the maintenance.
Maybe I'll get to the point at which the freeze warning light will burn out - that would save me from another distracting light on the panel
I Virginia, I'm hoping for an easy, mild winter...
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
I live a few miles east of Ashton, first town south of Island Park.
I used to camp & fish Henrys Lake and I.P. reservoir but since moving from Billings to Missoula I ride mostly in the Idaho to the west of me, would like to make it back through your area sometime, will give you a shout when I do.
Thanks for the list from Happy Trails, it is definately more than I am doing but maybe some things there I should be paying more attention to in the future.
I take it you have a '12 strom ? I have the Adv model and sure enjoyed the bike its first year, hoping for many more to come.....
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  #27  
Old 03-27-2013, 05:55 PM
CJM CJM is offline
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Default Oil in the cylinders

Checking the manual, it mentions to remove the plugs and add a bit of oil to the cylinders and cranking before storage. Then, in the spring remove the plugs, turn the engine a few times, and then re-install the plugs. No one mentioned this on this thread. Does anyone do this? Is it necessary ?

I did not put Oil in the cylinders when I put my bike away in late October, just the gas stabilizer... should I do it now?

cheers,
CJ
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  #28  
Old 03-27-2013, 06:14 PM
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I'll only fog or add oil to the cylinders if the bike will be stored for over a year. Just start the bike, it will be fine.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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  #29  
Old 03-27-2013, 07:17 PM
CJM CJM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I'll only fog or add oil to the cylinders if the bike will be stored for over a year. Just start the bike, it will be fine.
sounds like a plan...
Many thanks greywolf
CJ
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  #30  
Old 04-02-2013, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whl-hoop View Post
I live in Minnesota, and here's what I did, just yesterday. Rode to work (not very often you get to to that here, in December), stopped on the way home and topped off the fuel. When I got home I added a few ounces of Sea-Foam to stabilize the fuel, drained the crankcase and refilled with fresh oil. Done.

I haven't pulled a battery for winter storage in years, and I haven't had a battery fail. Fuel injected bikes seem to start on the first crank or two even after sitting for a long period and even if the battery may not be 100%, I've never had a problem with them starting.
Last week I took the bike out for the first time: added about 5psi to each tire to get to the proper spec, inserted key, turned key and pressed starter button, rode about 25 miles or so to fully warm engine and hopefully get rid of any condensation in crankcase.
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