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DL650A - 2012+ DL 650 2012 +

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  #1  
Old 09-17-2012, 12:16 PM
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Default How I lowered my 2012 V Strom 650

I am new here. I just bought a metallic orange '12 V Strom, and found it too high for my liking. Here is what I ended up doing:
1) I bought a set of Soupy's Performance lowering links. Outstanding quality, and VERY strong. A turnbuckle design allows one to use 19mm open end wrenches to "twist" the swingarm to the desired level. I raised the swingarm by 1 inch. Cost about 90 dollars US. BE CAREFUL when doing this. I highly recommend having a center stand installed before messing with the lowering links, OR, at the very minimum, a very solid support of your bike from a ceiling, using sturdy nylon straps.
2) In addition, I did buy the optional lowered Suzi seat (about a half inch lower, but the contour of the seal appears to allow MORE than an actual half inch of lowered "seated" height. I am estimating it is more like .75 to 1 inch. (This is NOT a cheap option, about $200 dollars US). This seat, IMO, is NOT as comfortable as the original, and feels a bit too hard. But, I am a light rider, with little "padding" on the posterior !!
3) I ALSO cut the rubber blocks on the LOWERED seat (mentioned above) in half, to give me about another .25 inch drop.
4) I bought the milled aluminum side stand from Soupy's, which is easily adjustable, and essentially made the stand about 1 inch shorter than the stock stand. VERY IMPORTANT !! I accidentally dropped the bike when the Suzi stock stand was still on...SO BE CAREFUL ! I chose NOT to modify the stock side stand in the event I sold the bike (and wanted a new owner to have the original parts). About 125 dollars US, and IMO an essential mod.
5) ALSO...I bought the optional center stand, made by Hepco and Becker of Germany, but it is now a bit difficult to heft the bike up (due to it's stock position not compensating for the lowered bike). I am contemplating RAISING the brackets of the center stand by having additional holes milled into the brackets. HOWEVER, I have not yet determined if this is feasible. It appears that only about .25 inches could be gained by this maneuver, so I may not try it.
6) I installed the optional Suzi "touring windshield" with the adjustable spoiler, but am very disappointed in that it did NOT solve the wind buffeting problem I am having (getting whacked with buffeting in the upper part of my full face Shoei). I suggest NOT going this route. Cost was about $300 US, expensive in light of other options out there.
7) I plan to extend the mirrors, using alloy extenders made by Rick Hughes of "Adventure Tech" in Kimberly, WA. Very nice quality black powdercoated extenders, for a reasonble 40 bucks US.
I have added the Suzi optional side bags and top trunk. Brackets are VERY strong, and look like the old Krauser brackets I used on my old Goldwing. VERY good quality (also a Hepco-Becker product).
9) In addition, I added the Suzi lower spoiler, mainly to keep road goop and debris off the engine-oil filter area (about 250 US dollars on eBay).
10) Lastly, I soon plan to raise and set-back the bars (up 1", and back 1"). I will let you know how that turns out. I am told I will need to extend the ABS front brake line to do this, but have NOT confirmed if this will be necessary on a LOWERED 'Strom.
11) I installed the Suzi side crash bars and also hand protectors. Total cost about 350 US for both, but do notice a bit of vibration as a result, strangely in the foot peg area (I suspect from the addition of the crash bars). Not sure if that is due to "rerouting" of energy from the engine (i.e. as a new "pathway", the steel bars, have been introduced..??????). Not a big deal, but noticeable.
MY HEIGHT: 5 ft. 8 in., inseam about 30", wt. about 148, age = 60. Former owner of '78 Honda CX 500, '70 Yamaha R5, '67 Harley Aeromacchi Sprint, and '81 Goldwing (best ride I have ever owned).
Gary in Ohio

Last edited by freyguy17; 09-17-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2012, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freyguy17 View Post
2) In addition, I did buy the optional lowered Suzi seat (about a half inch lower, but the contour of the seal appears to allow MORE than an actual half inch of lowered "seated" height. I am estimating it is more like .75 to 1 inch. (This is NOT a cheap option, about $200 dollars US). This seat, IMO, is NOT as comfortable as the original, and feels a bit too hard. But, I am a light rider, with little "padding" on the posterior !!

6) I installed the optional Suzi "touring windshield" with the adjustable spoiler, but am very disappointed in that it did NOT solve the wind buffeting problem I am having (getting whacked with buffeting in the upper part of my full face Shoei). I suggest NOT going this route. Cost was about $300 US, expensive in light of other options out there.
I'm very similar in size and weight to you, and recently had a discussion with another rider here of similar stature about #2. We came to the same conclusion that while initially the seat feels hard and not as comfortable as the stock, on long rides (>300 miles) its shape and denser padding actually works in our favor by supporting bony butts correctly. It also brings us a bit closer to the bars and behind the windshield better. If you haven't yet done a long ride on each of the saddles, try it and see...

Did you try the stock windshield with all three settings? Many riders of our size find the original in the highest position puts your helmet in relatively clean air. I just came back from a 3,000 mile ride including some nasty crosswinds, and this setup was good (of course YMMV).

Oh, and welcome aboard!
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:18 PM
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To be honest with you, I did NOT try the stock windshield in the highest
position. Since I took Suzuki up on their 0% financing back in July, I simply perused the factory catalog and bought the accessories up front. I based my "touring windshield" purchase on several other posts I had read (i.e.that the added spoiler eliminated buffeting for shorter riders). NOT the case, at least not for me. When I get time, I will indeed try the stock shield again and see how it goes. THANKS for your comments on the lowered optional seat comfort.
I have only put a few hundred miles on the bike, and have not been on it for more than, say, 30-40 minutes at a time thus far. Again, I give those Soupy's Performance lowering links a STELLAR recommendation. They are built like a Sherman tank, and highly adjustable. This is a great site, and I plan to check it often. I wish you well.
Gary in Ohio
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:23 PM
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Do they make them for the SV1000? I'm looking for a set. The $50 ones look really cheap.

EDIT: They have them for $150.00. Yikes. They are nice though. I may try the cheapo's...
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Last edited by D.T.; 09-17-2012 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freyguy17 View Post
10) Lastly, I soon plan to raise and set-back the bars (up 1", and back 1"). I will let you know how that turns out. I am told I will need to extend the ABS front brake line to do this, but have NOT confirmed if this will be necessary on a LOWERED 'Strom.
I can confirm that on my Glee the brake extension was not required for 1" up and 1" back risers. My front is lowered 3/4", which provides enough cable. I had to remove one cable clamp (on the lower front trees) and re-route the slack accordingly.

This provides a much more natural posture on the bike for me.



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Old 09-17-2012, 08:58 PM
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Thanks for the info. I definitely need to get my handlebars back, and I am sure the rise up will also help. I feel somewhat in a tense "cramped" position as the stock bar location makes me lean too far forward. Now I will have to decide on a manufacturer.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjw View Post
I can confirm that on my Glee the brake extension was not required for 1" up and 1" back risers. My front is lowered 3/4", which provides enough cable. I had to remove one cable clamp (on the lower front trees) and re-route the slack accordingly.

This provides a much more natural posture on the bike for me.



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Hi wlkjw. Could you please explain what you mean by "re-route the slack accordingly."?
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:16 AM
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When you remove the cable clamp that is bolted to the front trees, you gain a small amount of cable slack. This will allow the installation of the risers without an extension. You have to slightly re-rout the extra slack towards the handlebars to have enough cable.


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  #9  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:28 AM
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Gary, you'll like your new bike!

Did you lower the front? The forks can be raised to lower the front and keep the front & lowered rear in the correct orientation. I'm not sure how much the '12 front can be lowered...maybe 15 mm...but someone will let us know.

By the way, Richland Rick's Adventure tech (Rick Hughes) is on Kimberly St. in Richland, Washington. Also get one of his fork braces and check out any of his other excellent products that might meet your needs. http://www.adventuretech.biz/

Have you set the sag? This raises and lowers the bike on its suspension so it is in about the middle of the suspension travel. The preload adjusters on the forks and the shock should be set so you have about 40 mm of drop ± 5 mm, both front & rear, from the bike standing upright to the upright height with you aboard with full riding gear.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:49 PM
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How clear are the mirrors with the extensions?-for that matter how were they in the first place?
I'm 5'8.5" and would want a wind buffet solution as I'm not a commuter rider-always a trip or nothing ride. Have you since tried a better solution to the WS issue?
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