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Torque Wrench and Tool suggestions...

5K views 12 replies 11 participants last post by  chicago 
#1 ·
I am about to do my own initial 600 mile servicing. Much of the maintenance requires tightening bolts and I also have some crash guards to put on. I had bought a "manual" torque wrench that is pretty odd to use and it ended up breaking the sockets I was using.

Can someone who is maintenance savvy suggest a torque wrench and a set of sockets that would be good for the DL650? Thanks for the help!!
 
#2 ·
No way in the world should you be snapping off bolts or breaking sockets. That would require about 10 times the proper torque. Either you're not using the wrench properly or the calibration is way off( I have seen that) I'd say that 99% of us haven't used any thing but a manual torque wrench.
 
#3 ·
Just picked up all sizes of torque wrenches at Harbor Freight with coupon for $11.99 each. Bargain. They don't get bad reviews either. Sockets should never break unless they are cheap or stressed to begin with. 6-point sockets are recommended for most torquing jobs.
 
#4 ·
I have used the 1/2" and 3/8" Harbor Freight "clicker" torque wrenches for several years now with no issues. I keep them in their plastic cases and on the lowest torque setting, and only use them to torque nuts and bolts. I plan on picking up the 1/4" torque wrench at Harbor Freight to complete my set.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Craftsman and Kobalt (Lowes) are manufactured by the same Chinese company with different labels, etc. I call those medium level tools which I mainly have. It makes a difference on things like small hex head bolts that Suzuki has glued in. The HF stuff can strip more easily.

Snap-on or OTC for specialty tools and electronics are high-end and I have a few but expect to pay.

I get beat on when I mention Harbor Freight tools but I have nearly a complete set of HF tools in a separate tool cabinet that are the "family tools". The Pittsburgh sockets are not bad. :)

My tools are locked in a giant stainless steel tool cabinet to keep the family from losing them. lol

A am a bit particular on torque wrenches since I use them on airplane maintenance and the HF can be pretty far off. I would use at least medium quality stuff for measuring including dial calipers, micrometers, etc. Some I have calibrated. Things like fine threads in aluminum heads can cause problems sometimes where inch-pounds are required (or carbon fiber propellers). (for the US SAE guys. lol) We have to have two sets of tools anyway since we can't decide on one system.

3/8" torque wrench

HF 5-80lbs $22
Kobalt 20-100lbs $60
Snap-on 40-200lbs $315 lol
 
#7 ·
buy a 3/8 & 1/2 inch click torque wrench. Medium quality is all you require, not snap-on. I bought mine from Sears on sale & they have lasted a long time. Don't bang then around as I one of mine was filled with oil.

Manual torque wrenches are as good but a bit harder to use.

If you go too cheap don't forget that you get what you pay for.

Brian
 
#8 ·
Do you guys mean a beam type torque wrench when you say manual? Beam and click types are the common ones.

A 150ft-lb beam, a 75ft-lb clicker and a 200in-lb clicker took care of all my needs.
 
#10 ·
One can self-check a smaller torque wrench. Put the square drive in a vise with the handle sticking out horizontally. Measure the handle, calculate how many feet or inches. Set the dial. Hang a suitable weight on the end to get the set foot-pounds, and see if it clicks about right.

The only torque wrench that hasn't worked right for me was a Matco, a good brand. I now always set the wrench then put the square drive in the vise, pull it, and note if it just feels right. Not a positive proof, but I know it isn't jammed.
 
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#12 ·
I have a click type husky and a couple beam types from amazon.

I don't trust the click types anymore since my Husky stopped clicking all the time and I stripped out a caliper bolt on my V-strom.

The beam types are harder to use, but they force me to pay close attention and they have far fewer failure modes than a click type.
 
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