Time to change sprockets and chain....so I need some smarts!
The stock Front Sprocket has '20F' printed on it, does that mean 20 teeth? The Rear Sprocket says 47-525 and I found that part easy enough. The chain is 525....not sure what that means.
In either case, what I have found for replacement parts are....47-525 Rear sprocket, 15T (525) Front sprocket and a D.I.D. 520 VX2 X-Ring Chain (size 120) whatever that means.
Can someone set me straight? This is for a 2012 V-Strom 650A.... my first replacement set, with 58,000 kms. on it.
Thanks guys. P.S. I don't really care to change the gear ratio or stuff like that, I love it the way it is. THANKS!
Wrong chain size. It should be a 525 to match the 2 sprockets. A 520 is narrower and somewhat weaker than a 525. As for the correct teeth numbers I will leave that to a 650 owner. A DID vx2 chain is a good make.
Not to rude but your description of the parts, "What ever that means." Kinda indicated the lack of mechanical savvy. Maybe best to go to the dealer or reputable mechanic and have them do the work.
I got a cheap chain at the dealers...once. Wore out fast so buy good stuff, like DID.
You don't want any of the important things coming loose, What ever that means.
Stock size for front sprocket is 15 teeth (15T) and 47T for rear. Chain size is 525, not 520. Replacing the front sprocket might be tricky as the countershaft sprocket nut has red loctite. You might need to apply heat and then use an impact wrench. I would recommend that you read this thread: http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2012/107745-how-break-loose-countershaft-sprocket-nut.html. Good luck.
The chain is 116 links for the 2004-06. The 2007-15 uses a 118 link.
525 size as others said.
15 tooth front and 47 rear.
Avoid using a master link with a clip. Rivet or screw on.
He has a 650. A clip style master link would be fine when installed properly. In fact, it sounds like there would be less chances to screw it up given what sounds like his level of mechanical experience.
If you have a grinder, just cut the chain off. If you use the clip style master link, you can complete the chain swap with no special tools what so ever.
I helped a friend change his front sprocket for a 16T today.
If you do not have :-
- a chain riveting tool
- 3/4" breaker bar (or a rattle gun) with appropriate sockets
- heat source to release thread lock compound
- torque wrench capable of 145Nm
- various common workshop tools
- thread lock compound
in my opinion you should not be doing such work and best leave it to a competent mechanic - whatever that means
On a completely irrelevant note, did anyone else look at this thread title and have the Clash's "Drug Stabbing Time" pop into their head? Or am I just special?
As they have said the 525 is width of the chain. I have a 1000 so I stepped up to a 530 when I changed mine but on a 650 525 should be fine. There are many people and websites out there that will tell you ratios and how your rpm and speed will change by changing the tooth count on either sprocket. I likes the way mine rode so I kept stock teeth which sounds like what you want to do. I ordered mine from SV racing because they are a supporter on here. Heres the link I found http://www.stromtrooper.com/sv-raci...mbinations-rk-chain-press-fit-rivet-tool.html No problems and great service. I changed mine myself but I am a mechanic so it was fairly easy, if your not mechanically inclined I recommend taking it to a shop, it does require a few specialty tools and knowledge to remove and install.
The 500 series of chains tells us the pitch...the distance between chain pins. The 520 or 525 or 530 tells us the width. The chain and sprockets must be the same width. On a 1000 that is ridden hard, the 530 chain and sprockets will live longer...wider bearing surface to spread out the load. 530 weighs more, costs more, gives a slight performance hit due to the weight, but offers that longer life.
Many thanks guys! I have most of the tools, except the chain break, so I think with a few videos to watch and a few beer in my heated garage, I should be able to do this. I appreciate all the input, and we'll see you on the twisties! Thanks.
The chain and sprockets have been changed before so I'm hopefully going to be able to remove the sprocket nut with a long bar, I will apply some blue locktite so when refitting it. thanks.
I'm going to be in Bracebridge this Weds at 11 am. I shouldn't be there a long time. Midland is only about an hour and half or so from there.
If you wanted and were going to be around I could bring up my impact wrench to loosen up the front sprocket bolt. (I assume you have the correct socket and let me know is it half inch or 3/8's) it will take about a tenth of a second to loosen.
..Tom
I don't know anything about riveting the chain but have replaced several front sprockets before.
just ordered a couple sets of sprockets for my wee. so I have 2 setups for the rear, 1 hwy setup and 1 off road setup. the hwy setup will be 16T front and 47T rear with Shinko 705, gives me a 500 rpm drop on the hwy.
Off road setup is 14T front and 48T rear with shinko 805 for some grip, should give me an extra 1000 rpm in the dirt for low end grunt.
not sure how it's going to go but will update after i get it all together by this weekend.
I just changed my chain and sprockets on my K9 Wee last week. 525 DID chaffin agnes JT sprockets in stock gearing (15/47). I'm not a mechanic, but had a wrenched fuse me. Granted, we had the proper tools, so our went pretty well.
Dan told me how to grind off the rivet heads and then handed me the chain breaker with instructions and tools me to pop the rivets. "Read the instructions" he said, "that's what I'd have to do". So I did and popped out the rivet. Same for installing the new master link. I must admit, it was reassuring to have someone look at the mushroomed rivets to confirm I had done it properly,
Having done it once, I'd feel comfortable doing it on my own again.
Dan guided me on installing a new bearing in the sprocket hub too. Mounted my Mitas E07+ rear tire by myself. Felt pretty good. I wish his garage was closer. Next I'd like to dip a valve check/adjustment.
If you don't grind the heads off you may or may not have a problem. eliminate the small possibility of a problem by grinding the heads off. If you are going to use a torque wrench when tightening the sprocket nut, rear sprocket bolts, and rear axle don't go by the shop manual. It has several errors. do a search for "dl650 front sprocket nut torque greywolf" . and search for "rear sprocket bolts torque greywolf" and "dl650 rear axle torque greywolf" Greywolf was a vstrom guru and the patron saint of this site.
just post the specs if you know them, no need to be complicated and force someone to search. or better yet add the link to his post in your comment.
According to the suzuki manual
rear sprocket bolts 43.5 ft-lbs
rear axel bolt 72.5 ft-lbs
engine sprocket 105 ft-lbs
just saying we are all brothers here and brothers help brothers
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