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Inexpensive Radiator Guard Solution

42K views 87 replies 58 participants last post by  Grungydan 
#1 · (Edited)
1. Buy $4 letter tray from Target, remove handles and cut to size.




2. Paint and install with zip ties. Note that the zip ties are attached to the fairing, not the radiator. It takes time to route the zip ties between the radiator and the fairing, but it can be done. I glued felt furniture sliders to the radiator in case there is any vibration; however, this is unlikely since the radiator cover sits 1/2" from the face of the radiator.


 

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#6 ·
Thanks.
I had been looking for some time, and even corresponded with RCinNC about his creation (also pretty darn good).
The letter tray was in the Stationery-Office dept. of the local Target. SKU number is 081080282.

Trimming off the legs was quite simple. They had a very weak weld to the screen frame, so I just cut the legs in the middle and twisted them off the tray.
To make a clean cut on the screen, I took my time and cut one by one from one end to the other. A dremmel comes in handy when cutting the actual frame.
 
#3 ·
I like this idea

....unfortunately, I've already installed one that I paid WAAAAAY more for. I think its amazing how people think of these types of fixes and I think it WONDERFUL that people are willing to share this information the group.
Thanks!!!!!
:thumbup:
 
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#10 ·
....unfortunately, I've already installed one that I paid WAAAAAY more for. I think its amazing how people think of these types of fixes and I think it WONDERFUL that people are willing to share this information the group.
Thanks!!!!!
:thumbup:
I know the feeling Bob.
I just paid WAAAAY too much for some clear turn signal lenses. I could only find them in Germany, which means paying 19% Value Added Tax, plus international shipping, plus a ridiculous exchange rate (euro = $1.31), plus a foreign currency exchange fee from the credit card. :headbang: Oh well. Some day soon they will be available here in the US for a fraction of the cost.
 
#8 ·
Zip ties worked well, but were a little difficult to route through the openings on the fairing. Safety wire would've been easier to work with but could have damaged the plastic fairing.
As you can see, the mesh is fine, but not restrictive. I think it will do a good job protecting the radiator.
 
#12 ·
Redleg
Great execution, very clean OEM look. I looked at the $80 something guard on TT, ouch! Will have to try this on my next farkling day. Going to Target tomorrow to try and find the tray. Thanks for the tip.
 
#13 ·
I like how you think, Redleg. Your guard looks great! In fact, I might have gone with using this letter tray idea instead of using the stainless BBQ tray that Perfectstrom found at Home Depot. Looks like it might be easier to work with.

In case any of you guys overlooked the guard I made from the HD item and are considering building your own, you can see some photos of it here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/114375404294132436913/LowCostVStromRadiatorGuard

Every one likes choices...this is just another one.
 
#14 ·
I like the looks and strength of the stainless steel radiator guard. I considered it, but decided to keep looking because it seems to restrict some airflow.
Where I live temperatures hover in the 90s all summer. In one of my trips to the Tail of the Dragon (NC) last summer, the temps. got up to 108 deg. while riding through GA. This may not be a concern for you guys living up north.
 
#20 ·
It wasn't quite that easy, but it was a easy job! I had the material left over from a grill I made for my cruiser. I lined up the holes in the grill with the lower left mounting hole on the bike so I wouldn't have to drill the material. Then I held it in place and took a sharpie marker and marked the edges and trimmed to fit with some tin snips (that's what makes aluminum great). If you measure just the grill area (radiator) you may be short, meaning you won't be able to use the bottom bolt. I put my trim edging on the outside and 2 black zipties-Done. I bought one for my Vee and it mounted the same way, but cost a lot more! Cheers--BB
 
#18 ·
I agree...nice job, BB !

Redleg... I share your concern about the possiblility of some overheating during the summer with the stainless guard in place. I'd feel better if there wasn't so much material between the holes. I'll be keeping a close eye on the temp gauge, but don't foresee any problems. If there is, I'll just remove it and ride on. Then, later on, take some time to drill the holes bigger to allow more airflow .


 
#21 ·
How in the world?

Hey Redleg
I borrowed your idea for the rad guard, got it cut down to size. painted, now stumped. How in the world did you manage those zip ties thru the screen then behind the fairing? I even removed the right side fairing and tied the screen to it while on the workbench but getting the zips on the other side has me stumped. How did you do that?:confused:
 
#22 · (Edited)
I wouldn't think the stainless hole pattern would have a net negative effect on cooling. While blocking some wind to the fins, they would receive and disperse some heat, too. And they offer superior protection from bigger stones. Being the cheapskate that I am though, I'm going to pick up the Target unit:thumbup:
 
#23 ·
Tie Strapless Installation of Redleg's idea

I took Redleg's idea on step further and found some aluminum adel like wire clips so that the letter tray could be attached via existing screws holding the cowling together. btw, I didn't bother cutting the tray - simply took the bent section (45 degree angle) and positioned it toward the ground for extra protection - hope that it does not interfere with a possible engine guard installation in the future. Will try to upload photos. Thanks for the idea Redleg. The center of the clips line up with the screw holes at approx. 6 and 3/8 inches down the sides from the top of the letter tray (bar).
 

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#27 · (Edited)
Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle


Thanks Redleg for this great idea.

Because I didn't refer back to your original post when I did it, I didn't put the little notch in the top edge to clear the brake hose fittings and ABS cable.

Like you, I left the cut edge (nicely smoothed of course...) at the top. Anyway, I probably could have made it a touch smaller, after the first ride I noticed it had repositioned very slightly and that the top edge was getting close the ABS sensing line.

It may never have caused an issue, but I still didn't want movement or airflow to cause even the slightest fretting of the wire against the mesh. Not wanting to remove it all, $2.00 worth of black fuel tubing and a few small cable ties finished the top edge off with a non-fray edge. Looks alright, too...

Just for info in case others may similar concerns.
 
#31 · (Edited)
When you cut-off the handles and the side riser bars you end up with the mesh sandwiched between two bars on the left and right sides of the grill.

If you look closely at the 2nd photo, there are two bars on the sides, one on the bottom and no bar no top.


>>>>>>>>Four months and almost 5,000 miles later, the grill still looks as it did the day I took the photographs.
 
#30 ·
Great idea! Thanks for posting the photos.
 
#34 ·
Redleg,
Thought I would follow up and show you how my radiator guard turned out. Used the same tray you did. Cut it down to size and JB welded the two rods back on to the edges. I also placed 1/2 inch wide foam sealer on the back to reduce wear on the radiator. Her is a picture of how it looks. Glad I did it this spring since I have been eating bugs all summer. Thanks for the great tip!

 
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