Many threads I know but I've gone back and forth, drop the $$ on new springs or cut the old ones, buy springs, shorten the old ones.......
My new sonic springs have been ordered. I'm a pretty big guy 6'3" 235/240 lbs and the factory set up just ain't cutting it. I'm tired of the big nose dive when I brake. I don't mind the suspension except for the front end dive I've even backed off the rear spring so when I sit it sags quite a bit so when I brake it somewhat evens out but I still have that over the handlebars feeling. The seat and the front suspension are my only complaints and both are not expensive to fix.
Similar situation myself, about 245 lbs kitted out, 6'1"
front end dive is a bit strange when you are used to a road bike, I think these bikes are designed for a bit of trail riding too where the soft suspension soaks up the bumps, I may look at changing the springs and fork oil also though at some point.
The sonic springs were well worth the money. They have a basic calculator for your spring rate as well. I very pleased with mine and would certainly recommend them.
You don't even need to change the fork oil when you change the springs, but it's not a bad idea to change the fork oil periodically, and Red Line makes a top product which might hold its viscosity and hold its damping characteristics better when run hard & hot.
Good job parting with the money to get the Sonic springs and oil. It will be worth it even though once sorted out it disappears from your consciousness. A good front end will save gallons of adrenaline in single drop increments. I have them in my 650.
Vin, you are eventually going to want a re-sprung rear(6'4 230). I did just the springs on my '07 DL and it was better. I went whole hog with a complete rebuild of the forks and oem rear springs on my '15 DL and the difference is huge both on and off road.
daughertymotorsports.com
Very happy with the cost and work performed...........
Talk to Rich before you order them. He seems to have softened things a bit over the years. I was going to go .95 on mine, 04 Wee and I'm 210lbs. Thats what the calculator told me. Rich talked me into .90's and they are plenty firm. I might, in retrospect, have gone even with .85's. Just my 2c!
Yeah, the calculator is designed for bikes with "normal" street bike travel, generally 4.5"-5". The little bit of extra travel that the Stroms have means you can usually go down 0.05kg/mm from what the calculator says.
It's a very small difference though, hard to feel.
FWIW I'm 165lbs and use the 0.90s.
If you want to really address the nose dive drop in a set of Ricor Intiminators, fresh fork oil and nose dive is a thing of the past. I would also suggest a fork brace. It makes a dramatic difference on the DL650.
The springs won't really help with the dive, unless you get them real stiff or crank the preload up.
I've got Sonics in my bike and they are .90s, I believe (previous owner installed them). If I dial in enough pre-load to start reducing the dive, then the front end becomes really harsh over sharper bumps. I'm 210-220 lbs, depending on time of year.
You really need both springs and valving work (Ricor Intiminators or Racetech GV emulators) to make the front end feel like a more expensive bike's suspension.
I agree. The stiffer springs WILL give you the right road feel but small sharp edge bumps off road really need some type of valving, intimidators-GV's-or the Cogent valves to tune out the sharp stuff IMHO! I haven't done mine yet but am leaning toward the Cogents.
I'm guessing the potential issue may be with excess preload. I cut the spacers so their was about 3/8" proceeding from the top of the fork IRC. After I buttoned it back together the front end sat about an inch lower than it did stock. I'm guessing as it was just me. I put in a 1/4" more pvc on top and put it back together. I bet that was just a bit to much.....
I installed them tonight and the first thing I noticed to get my sag set instead of being screwed all the way in my adjusters are at the 1/2 point. I put a zip tie around the fork while it was up on the jack then lowered it and sat on the bike and it measures right at 1 1/4" first try. You talk about an easy change it was super simple to do. I did not change fork oil when I started I was thinking in two months I've put 3200 miles on the bike so in two to three months I'll be due for tires so I'll change it then.
Riding around the block I noticed the nosedive greatly reduced and it used to dive between shifts (not much but you could see it) and now nothing.
I used the PVC spacers cut to 4 1/4" not the OEM metal toilet paper tubes :smile2: I see where they saved a dime.
Taking a longer way home from work tonight gave me a chance to test out the new suspension even more, I should have done this the day I bought the motorcycle. It's hard to explain but the motorcycle feels like it's more planted like it's more secure.
Long sweeping curves where you're compressing the suspension it really wakes it up now where it didn't before, it always felt like it was bouncing around.
I've had a few days of riding and tomorrow is the mountain roads so that will be fun. If you've considered springs just get them the install is super easy and the end result is a motorcycle that feels new and rides like it should have in the first place.
The changeovers, as in from a hard lean in a RH curve changing over to a hard lean LH turn are crisp clean and ....."snappy". Fortunately, I ma surrounded by roads of this nature...I'm between Knoxville and Kingsport: http://www.motorcycleroads.com/Routes/Tennessee_118.html?page=2
Riding through the mountains today was...exciting to say the least!!! WOW! The bike handles so much better I was going through the twisties fast and the bike responded like it was nothing. Increased stability for sure.
Now for those rear lowering links...
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