12 volt power outlet - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 32 Old 06-18-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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12 volt power outlet

Hi all. I was wondering if I wired up a 12 volt power socket straight to the battery , what size inline fuse should I use ? To me it seems the easiest way is to run it straight to the battery. Maybe I need educated in this lol. Are there any good videos on how to install the socket? I just need it for GPS and phone charging. Thanks !
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post #2 of 32 Old 06-18-2017, 09:56 AM
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The fuse size depends on the wire size and the load. If you use the socket for an air compressor, you'd want a minimum of a 15A fuse and 16ga wire. I'd prefer a 20A fuse and 14ga wire. If GPS and phone charging are all you want, 20ga wire and a 5A fuse will do the trick.

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post #3 of 32 Old 06-18-2017, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks greywolf ! I appreciate the info.
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post #4 of 32 Old 06-18-2017, 11:54 PM
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I've been using 12ga wire since I have a roll of it for all my extra wiring. make sure you run a return to the neg pole for a more complete job. I tried using a bolt on the frame, front tank bolt, It proved unreliable for a secure return.
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post #5 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 12:09 AM
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I don't know how many times I've written this. Never use the frame for ground. Light grounding needs can tap a black/white wire and high amperage needs should go to the negative battery terminal or a grounding bus connected to that terminal with a heavy gauge wire.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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post #6 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 06:32 AM
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Do you really need 12V or do you need to power USB-powered devices?

My bike is setup as follows:

This (https://www.rad.eu/nl/c/p/47066-rad-...5v-2a-1m70.htm) on the handlebar, connected to switched power (via the heated grips plug behind the radiator in my case). The stuff I need on my handlebar (phone) is all USB powered, and is not needed/on the bike if the bike is not running.

This (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-...608.0.0.peEcnt) is directly wired to the battery, and the outlet is zip-tied to a location under the seat. I can use it to drive anything that needs 12V (e.g. a tire pump), but I can also plug in a USB cig lighter adapter in case I want to charge something when I'm not on/near the bike. For instance, my Scala headset or a PowerBank. Whatever is plugged in also goes under the seat, and the seat is then closed/locked, so this is relatively safe too. Safer, at least, than charging things via a handlebar socket.
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post #7 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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BackPacker ..........I just need a place to charge my phone and run my GPS. Thanks for your suggestion. Greywolf ..... I could still just run positive and negative both to the battery right ? I'm sorry if I sound electrical ignorant , I have never dealt much with it , just trying to learn. I do appreciate all the advice. Thanks again !
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post #8 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by west virginia rider View Post
BackPacker ..........I just need a place to charge my phone and run my GPS. Thanks for your suggestion. Greywolf ..... I could still just run positive and negative both to the battery right ? I'm sorry if I sound electrical ignorant , I have never dealt much with it , just trying to learn. I do appreciate all the advice. Thanks again !
You can run the cables straight to the battery and you should put a fuse in the positive one somewhere near the battery. Just remember that the charging socket would not switch off with the ignition, so if you leave something charging for long enough with the motor not running, you could flatten the battery.
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post #9 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 08:12 AM
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WVR - make SURE you get a 2 amp USB output ...many are 1.1 and will not charge well.
Make sure it is switched as well.

If anyone has a link to a known working unit on Amazon that is 2 amp USB, has a switch and handlebar mount....cough it up

I am terminating my 1.1 amp with prejudice....


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post #10 of 32 Old 06-19-2017, 08:12 AM
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Yes, you can just run two wires (positive and negative) directly to the battery, but:

1. Make sure the positive wire has an in-line fuse in it, or is fused somehow in a different way. If you chafe or or otherwise damage the positive wire, and this touches the frame, then you create a short circuit which is not protected in any way. That could damage the battery but most commonly will melt the positive wire. Hopefully before your bike catches fire. Not good. So anything that is connected to the positive terminal of the battery should be fused with an appropriate fuse. (What is appropriate? Divide the wattage/power by 12 volts, and round up to the nearest available fuse. So a 20W device needs a 20/12 = 1.7A fuse, rounded up to a 2A fuse.)

2. Determine whether you need "continuous" or "switched" power. Continuous means it's wired directly to the battery, and is also "live" when the bike is turned off. So if your bike is parked on the street anybody passing by could use your bike to charge their phone. Probably not what you want. Plus, if you forget to unplug your GPS or phone, then it will continue to drain your battery. Again, maybe not what you want on the handlebars. "Switched" power is connected to a power source which is only live when the bike is running or when the ignition is turned on. This is generally recommended for external sockets, and for places where you may forget to detach devices. The most convenient source of "switched" power is the heated grip connector which lives somewhere behind the radiator, but there are other solutions possible as well.

If you want to solve both problems properly, then you should get a fuse box. This is a device which is connected at one end to the positive and negative terminals, plus some source of switched power to activate the internal relay. At the other end you'll find up to eight output sockets. Each of these outputs is individually fused (taking care of problem #1) and something like five out of the eight output sockets are switched (taking care of problem #2). You can then connect just about anything to this fuse block, without the risk of overloading existing circuits or anything.
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