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Notchy shifting?

9K views 55 replies 21 participants last post by  Old Time Rider 
#1 ·
Does anyone has/had issue with notchy shifting on DLA? what is the issue/cure.

We have 5k at the moment, oil was just changed a couple hunderd miles ago to synthetic <brand sensored>.

No issue with clutch adjustment, but had been doublechecked.
 
#2 ·
Not an uncommon phenomena with these bikes, but if the fluid in question starts with an "A" I have found the shifting to be horrid with it. How is your chain adjustment, too loose or too tight can cause problems as well?
 
#5 ·
The name of magic synthetic fluid starts with R and rhymes with Nutella?

Level between Low and Full.

Yes adjusted the cable to make sure that clutch disengages completely. Chain was just adjusted to 1" slack during 16t install.

It is really strange it shifts ok for most part but sometimes it feels very notchy.
 
#4 ·
If DLA means a 2012-2016 DL650 then I don't think notchy shifting is a normal issue. I suspect by the clutch adjusted you mean the cable slack as I doubt the actual clutch had needed adjustment so soon.

I found on my 650's that when they got tough shifting the shift linkage needed to be lubed. When I did so the shifting returned to it's normal butter smooth shifts. (I always used a popular brand of oil that is rated for Motorcycles but is primarily aimed at trucks.)

..Tom
 
#6 ·
Hmmmmmm.....I too run the "R stuff" and I am now at 4k and the shifting is still like butter. I do keep my linkage lubed and shaft pivot, you might even consider adjusting the linkage itself to see if that helps. So when was the 16 tooth install, and I assume it was fine before that?
 
#9 ·
No it was about the same. I attributed it to oil and break in deposits. Did the 16t and oil change at the same time as both needed to take bash plate.

There was very little buzz on magnet (oil was in for 1,900mi) but alot silvery AL shaving at the bottom; looks like machining leftovers chewed up by transmission gears. This is 3rd change btw.
 
#7 ·
I always get a kick out of shifting being described as notchy. The #19 gear shifting plate engages notches in the #10 counterpart. The pins on the #1-3 forks ride in slots or notches in the #7 cam or drum. Constant mesh sequential gearboxes are notchy mechanisms. When they intrude on the rider's sensibilities, the usual cause is being in the wrong gear for the rpms involved. Old oil can make things a bit sticky too. Sticky is probably a better word for a gearbox that is less than smooth.

 
#8 ·
The cable adjustment does not adjust the clutch.. it only adjusts how much slack is in the cable (and that of course is important.) You can have proper cable slack and the clutch might still not disengage properly. Having said that I would be very surprised if your clutch need adjustment.

Try putting some lube on the links... as I mentioned previously it made a huge difference for me and really takes almost no effort to do.


As I wrote the above it crossed my mind that my linkage actually broke on my 2012 DL650. Mind you it have much more mileage than yours. (It was at 131,329 km, a bit over 81,000 miles) You might want to take a close look at the linkage to make sure it is done up properly and everything is in order just to be safe.

..Tom
 
#19 ·
I doublechecked lever adjustment b/c it was taken off when installed OEM handguards.

Linkage pivots looked ok, except for the bottom/big one were still soaked in oil. I put some chain lube and to my surprize shifting was much better today. So it is either that or break-in deposits slowly getting filtered out/pulled by magnets, or both.
 
#10 ·
True. Sticky joints on the external shift linkage can be a problem. Squirting a little chain lube into the joints by inserting the straw from the can under the rubber covers can do wonders. DLA is confusing. Every Strom is a DL and A means with ABS. Model year and size are what we need.
 
#12 ·
Without this becoming an oil thread :surprise: I would suggest that recent ... change has a bearing on the gear changes.
My bike had the 24000 klms first major service, 2015 DL 650, noticed a change in how the gears felt. Initially when cold the gear indicator would fluctuate in first, neutral and second. This rectified when warmed up and after a few thousand klms is now ok.
This occurred after changing type of ...
 
#14 ·
On the way home I was paying attention to shifting and with exception of some bad shifts it actually shifts pretty good.

It feels almost as not enough oil/dry shift or weak return spring. And it is mostly on upshift downshifts are much better. Any known issues with springs?

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#15 ·
No. The usual issue is the rider isn't letting the lever come all the way back down before trying to lift it again. Less often, the linkage can be sticking. Never heard of a spring issue.
 
#16 ·
I thought of it - the shifter location, so made sure that boot doesn't touch shifter completely after the shift. No difference whatsoever.

Linkage is not sticking which it shouldn't on 2.5mo old bike and linkage points were well lubed. Return springs seem to be doing what supposed to, actually stronger that I am used to.

Found a thread in which S10 owners attributed shift degradation to R-T6 magic fluid.

Maybe it just needs more break-in it is not fair to compare it to bikes with 30-60k more on the clock. Just hate when shifts are not silky smooth hard to get multi-shifts clean.
 
#17 ·
If you're focused on doing multi upshifts, try it without the clutch. Apply upward lever pressure and move the throttle a little down followed by a lot up. You may be over aggressive for street riding. That's a track move.
 
#18 ·
Having both a 2013 650 and now a 2014 1000 I can tell you the shifting is just a bit tighter/rougher on the 650. What ever you want to call it. I thought it might smooth out with more miles but it is pretty much the same.
 
#20 ·
Update: shifts smooth, still not 100% were I'd like it to be but passable.

Found a couple discussions in one the owner had similar issue due to switch to <magic unicorn fluid not to be discussed>. Shifting went from mediocre to bad in 200mi, then became good after a while. Consensus was that it must have been incompatibility with previous oil either chemically (unlikely) or due to detergents washing out stuff.

In another dicussion owner had fibers from filter (fram) in oil. Changing oil and filter fixed it.

I will keep an eye on it and prehaps send the <magic unicorn fluid> to UOA after at next change.
 
#21 · (Edited)
My 2013 DL650A has this shifting problem when I practice any particular panic braking. I not anal about it but I do or have on occasion do this to reassure myself I still have some level of brake security with my somewhat new ride. The DL stops much quicker than my 750lb ST....:wink2:

When the panic stop occurs no matter which gear the unit is in I have to feather the clutch lever thru each gear to retrieve 1st all most every time. Still trying different things and there are several aforementioned things on this thread I'll certainly look at. Yes I too use shell's R full synthetic, but don't believe that has a lot to do with this particular problem. Cable is set correct. Should mention it has just under 7K on the O

Best, EJ
 
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#22 ·
I'll say it again. Sequential constant mesh gear boxes, like almost all motorcycles have, need motion in the gear sets to shift gears. That can be done by applying pressure to the shift lever and feathering the clutch or rocking the bike front and back through each gear. If you have time to row the gear box down when stopping, do it. In a real emergency, total focus on braking may be necessary though.
 
#23 ·
Ok agreed to a point..... but never had this particular problem a other bikes but will continue to work on braking and lubrications solutions:smile2:

EJ
 
#24 ·
Every bike I've ever owned acted like that.
 
G
#28 ·
Mine is a bit notchy, but not too bad.

Thing I don't like is all the linkage. And the shifter pivot, it's too sloppy. I'll have missed shifts into second gear since there is so many joints and the throw is so long.

My SV is the best shifting bike I have ever had! :smile2:
 
#30 ·
Were yo going fast enough to support those gears when shifting?
 
G
#31 ·
I just removed the GPS and moved it with the ignition on. It is NOT serviceable. I thought it would be more notchy but it seems to be just a rheostat or on a wiper.

Can't see the contacts if they are damaged or junk is in there. It is oil bathed.

Looking at the manual and shift points I'd say I was shifting fine. :confused:

Shifting it with the engine off it worked fine. If it's half way shifted it will go blank though.
 
#32 ·
The GPS is a set of resistors, one for each gear. If the selector is between gears, the resistance is infinite so the display will blank. It sounds like the GPS is okay but you are missing shifts. That can be because of failure to recenter after shifting due to a badly adjusted lever height, sloppy footwork or a sticky mechanism. One thing that sometimes helps is lubricating the linkage. Spraying some oil based rather than wax based chain lube into the rubber covered joints of the shift linkage as well as removing and greasing the shift lever pivot often helps.
 
#36 ·
One thing that sometimes helps is lubricating the linkage. Spraying some oil based rather than wax based chain lube into the rubber covered joints of the shift linkage as well as removing and greasing the shift lever pivot often helps.
I consider cleaning and lubing the shift linkage (disassembling and reassembling in the process) part of routine service..... there is more to routine service than changing the oil & filter..... cleaning and lubing brake calipers as well, brake & clutch pivots, etc. along with general inspection. well worth the hour and a half labor the dealer charges
 
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