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Series regulator upgrade, SH775 or SH847

107K views 370 replies 48 participants last post by  Wildc4mpr 
#1 ·
Getting ready to order the parts while my stator is still good. There are two options, the 775 at 35 amps and the 847 at 50 amps. The 2013 650 has a 400 watt stator so the 775 is well within its range and much easier to mount in the stock location than the bigger 847. My bike is converted to all LED which drastically decreases the current needed to run the bike. Will this decrease in current have any affect on the total load placed on the regulator at high RPM interstate running? I have no issue going either route, I just don't ever want to mess with it again. Is the any benefit to going with the 847 in my case or will the 775 be fine.
 
#2 ·
The 847 is overkill. The question is whether you like overkill and will the price difference be important to you. Both are series types so a lower draw will not hurt anything, unlike with a shunt type.
 
#3 ·
In the same shoes and went with SH775. From what greywolf is saying there are no reports of sh775 failure on 'strom. Also Polaris uses it on rangers with 500wt stator.

Glee seems to have RR mounted in good spot stopping in traffic will kick radiator fan and keep airflow across.. stock stator is rated at 27A? SH775 needs 1-2mph to handle that.

However SH847 is only $80 more, it is worth it if you may upgrade to higher output stator down the road. I have considered and decided that I won't, because 1) there's enough overhead due to LED conversion, 2) stock stator puts out more in 2-3k range and I spend alot of time there. Your situation may be different though.
 
#40 ·
BTW I ordered RR, Triumph link from Bike bandit, $78+9.46.. adding the set of Dirt Skins got free shipping.
I just ordered a SH775 replacement from DB Electrical. Already has slotted mount holes.
I chatted with them and they assured me it is a direct replacement. So not OEM. They have a 1yr warranty but not sure if that's worth spit. For $58 shipped I guess I pays my money and sees how she works.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...ier-for-polaris-800-ranger-rzr-2011-2014.html

BTW - also found the connectors on eBay for $10 shipped.
 
#5 ·
Under the conditions you state, I don't think there is any reason at all to pay more for the higher ampacity regulator and increase the mounting hassle.

On my 2013 DL-650, I have all lights except turn signals converted to LED and the SH775 heatsink does not even become uncomfortable to touch. The semiconductors cooled by that heatsink have an easy life. (I say this with some authority, as an electrical engineer.)

The current drawn by the regulator, expressed in average terms, is essentially unchanged at any RPM where the stator can supply the demanded load. And for the switching devices used in the series R/R, (a regenerative, 4-layer device), voltage drop is approximately constant so dissipation is dependent only on average current. To the extent that drop is not constant, the dissipation change with RPM is negligible due to the way stator inductive reactance serves to keep switch duty cycle close to constant across RPM for any given load current.

To mount my SH775, I just sawed a slot meeting the mounting hole at one end. With a largish washer under the bolt head there, it is perfectly secure. (And the washer hides the slot!)
 
#7 ·
Thank you to all that replied. The 775 it will be. I'm all for easy mounting and saving money. With the 775 I can also keep my neat little cover that comes with the OEM power port. Thanks Y'all.
 
#13 ·
I will take some pics and do a write-up when I get started. I am going to use the Triumph link lead and the 775 regulator. The 775 has about 1/2 last distance between its mounting holes than the OEM regulator. I plan to use a die grinder with a barrel sander about the same size as the hole and take up the distance on both ends equally. I also have this cover for the regulator that came with the OEM 12v accessory port kid that really does a nice job of cleaning up the view. I understand its a heat shield to stop you from burning your fingers plugging stuff in, but I just like it. My stator is currently healthy and charging 14.7 underway and 14.3 at idle. I want to do this more for preventative maintenance than anything else. While I have the airbox off I will do the air filter and plugs since I'm there.
 

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#14 ·
I will take some pics and do a write-up when I get started. I am going to use the Triumph link lead and the 775 regulator. The 775 has about 1/2 last distance between its mounting holes than the OEM regulator. I plan to use a die grinder with a barrel sander about the same size as the hole and take up the distance on both ends equally.
That should make a nice-looking job.

I also have this cover for the regulator that came with the OEM 12v accessory port kid that really does a nice job of cleaning up the view. I understand its a heat shield to stop you from burning your fingers plugging stuff in, but I just like it. My stator is currently healthy and charging 14.7 underway and 14.3 at idle. I want to do this more for preventative maintenance than anything else. While I have the airbox off I will do the air filter and plugs since I'm there.
I have to say that covering the regulator heatsink is a poor idea. When airflow is mostly restricted for a part where convective cooling is the primary mode of heat flow, temperature rise can easily become excessive. The SH-775 is not an ugly part, and looks no more "technical" than pretty much everything else exposed on the bike, (excepting the few obvious appearance items.) Furthermore, in its mounted location, the R/R is kind of hidden away anyway.
 
#16 ·
I read it will have the same R/R as the Vee2, the SH847. The SH775 is not a Suzuki part.
 
#17 ·
DaveinNC
I too, want to do this for preventative maintenance. My R/R and stator was changed by the previous owner and all the wires and connectors are out in the open, not buried under the airbox. Looks like they come straight over from the Stator across the engine. All connectors are right there in front of me!
What do you mean by Triumph lead link?
I am looking at the crimp and go option from Jack at roadstercycle.
 
#18 ·
What do you mean by Triumph lead link?
I am looking at the crimp and go option from Jack at roadstercycle.
http://www.bikebandit.com/search?q=2746333&qt=search

It is a Triumph factory part with connectors to stator, bike and SH775/847 RR. Plug and play on Triumph, but on Wee you would need to salvage bike side plug off OEM rectifier. Triumph is different.

If your stator was changed by PO check that plugs have not been changed/bypassed good luck.
 
#20 ·
The new part will not be plug and play on the old bikes. The connections are on the part while the old connectors are on the wire pigtail and a different type.
 
#32 ·
The stock Suzuki connectors are 3 wires for the AC side and four wires for the DC side. It would be nice to know for those who feel they need a plug and play if they were the same.
 
#41 ·
An SH775 replacement is not necessarily an SH775. In fact I bet it isn't. The SH775 has one round hole and one elongated slot and nobody's going to do machine work before selling. Check the information on the case when you get it. DB Electrical is shown as the manufacturer and the only items I've seen with dual slots are Chinese. It may be a shunt type.
 
#45 ·
The whole idea behind getting an SH775 is to get a series type. The question would be whether their item is a shunt type or a series type. They probably got theirs from Alibaba in China and only specified a replacement, not a series type replacement. Chances are they won't know. They might not even know what the question means. If you want a series R/R, get an SH775, not a replacement for an SH775. Shunt types are much more common than series types.
 
#48 ·
The Polaris part is a genuine SH775 series R/R.

Here is how the SH series is set up.

 
#53 ·
Good luck. They will probably maintain it will do the job of regulating and rectifying the voltage. Familiarize yourself with their return policy. Some places will allow returns for any reason. Some require a part to be malfunctioning. You may have to pay a restocking fee.
 
#57 · (Edited)
Yup - I already looked - no problem returning, possible restock. My stance will be that it was misrepresented.
Getting the credit card company involved has always proved beneficial to me since the company doesn't want to mess with the 900 lb gorillas.

PS: Where is this $20 more for the real deal that y'all are talking about?
 
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#55 ·
I am not sure if this is a fake or not, it could be a pretty decent copy. But is it copy of SH775? FH020? Both look identical on outside. And how reliable is it?

I just had Chinese made LED 1157 bulb go during the trip and take brake flasher out. Finding yourself riding without tail light isn't a pleasant experience, and I don't carry 10 and 14mm sockets to take tail section off to get access. But at least you can get somewhere, if RR or stator goes you are done. Hopefully not in the middle of nowhere.

There're parts you can take a gamble on RR is probably not one of them. I cheaped out savings $80 on not getting SH847, so if I ever upgrade stator I will need new RR.
 
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