Got around to installing my blue springs last night and today the weather was decent enough for a bit of a test ride. I made no other changes other than the blue spring for better evaluation purposes.

Sonics .90
15W synthetic oil, 500ml per leg (150mm airspace)
35mm preload
blue spring at 3.5 turns (previously 2.25 with the yellow)

Although my ride today wasnt really enough to thoroughly evalute the change, I did note a somewhat smoother ride at lower speeds over street irregularities (I think...). No dramatic change that I could tell right off the cuff, but I only put on a few miles in and around town.

The weather guy is calling for a balmy +10-13C here Friday, so will get out and ride a number of different roads and speeds.

Cheers

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K5Wee in Kanada (202,000Km and climbing)
IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS.....FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM

 

I knew you knew, just didn't want anyone else to get confused.

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Rich Desmond
www.sonicsprings.com
'07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '99 SV650 (race bike), '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350, '08 Ducati 848

Rcas,

Did you weld up the small rebound holes on your damper rod?

Ron W.

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07 Wee
07 DRZ400 SM (wifeys)
16 T Sprocket
Short screen & Washers
Replaced 'P" shooter
35W halogen rear signals
RT Gold Valves
Sonic Springs

I made no other changes.

I find the rebound to be pretty decent, but may give it a try next riding season.

cheers,

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K5Wee in Kanada (202,000Km and climbing)
IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS.....FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM

Went for a 400km ride today, a variety of road surfaces and conditions. I can say that I am very pleased with the blue spring change in performance. I especially note a change on gravel washboard surfaces.

Hitting larger/sharper edged bumps now result in a much smoother initial reaction. There is a particular railway crossing, 3 tracks that was very bone-jarring and is now quite acceptable.

I might add another 1/4 turn to the adjuster, but overall it is a nice change over the yellow spring.

To state again what I have:

36psi Battle Wing
Superbrace
.90 Sonics
500cc 15W oil per leg
Blue spring at 3.5 turns of preload
35mm sag
Rebound holes are open
I am around 205lbs with gear on

Cheers!

__________________
K5Wee in Kanada (202,000Km and climbing)
IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS.....FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM

Rcas- Any ride updates?

I've been re-reading this thread, and I have a hard time seeing a definite conclusive agreement. I'm wondering if- a) We are expecting different things from our suspension than the other guy. b) Are we making adjustments via the same method. It very well could be.

I went on a ride the other day under some unique situations, and it was indeed educational. On a perfect test section of THE problem bumps, I had the sun shining from the side so I could watch my shadow and observe the front wheel. I saw two problems- A) the front wheel was not compressing like it should when contacting a bump. B) The front wheel was rebounding too quickly.

Also, I rode a buddy's FZ1000 the other night. Now that bike felt like it was stuck to the road and I want some of that (I think). So, I did some more adjusting on the blue spring preload.

so, adjustment time.... I took a different approach to determining the preload. Previously, I would tighten the spring until what I thought was was zero clearance and then tighten the desired turns while holding everything as stationary as I could. This time, I made digital caliper measurements instead. I measured the free length of the spring + the washer, and then did the math from there. One turn of the screw is .031" (32 threads per inch).

Much to my surprise, when I compared my previous adjustments, I did not have the blue springs set at the desired adjustments, nor were the two valves set the same- I had the valves set at 2.7 turns and 3.30 turns. Hmmm, not cool.

So, I wanted to go softer anyway, so I went about measuring. I set the valves at 2.2 and 2.1 turns (.070" compression and .066" compression).

I've been able to go for some short rides. So far, it is indeed a better ride, and I do want to go stiffer on the fork fluid to slow the rebound a little. With the softer compression dampening, the fork is moving more and the quick rebounding is becoming more pronounced.

Currently set at...
.85 springs
Mobil One ATF (~10wt) at 150mm
Blue Springs at 2.15 turns

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05 Red DL650- Madstat, Givi Windshield, RT Emulators, Sasquatch shock mods
07 YZ250F- my woods racer
07 WR250F- just barely street legal DS bike

I have put on several hundred more KM's since my last post. Interesting notes you make on the adjustments, and the next time I have the valves out, I too will measure with a caliper.

For the conditions in which I have been operating, I am pretty happy with the results. I did do abit of off roading, dirt road, bit of trail, and the forks are definatly more compliant. But 99.999% of my riding is pavement so I concentrate my adjustments for the road.

I will probably await next season before making any further adjustments, and might try brazing up the rebound holes, although with the 15W oil I have in, the rebound rate seems to be sufficient.

On a side note, I recieved yet another pair of blue springs from RT in the mail yesterday....odd, hope they didnt charge my card again.

Cheers,

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K5Wee in Kanada (202,000Km and climbing)
IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS.....FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM

Went for a nice "spirited" ride today, including some twisties. As stated in earlier posts, I think my compression dampning is just about where I like it.

However, after concentrating more on the rebound, I would like to slow the rebound down some, but without affecting compression. In the faster sweeping corners (slight uneveness and bumps) I am finding a bit too much rebound, need to slow it down a tad. I will try a switch from 15W to 20W fork oil. I might have to back off the preload on the emulator to compensate. If I still need more dampening, I will use some JB weld to plug the small rebound holes in the dampener rod. Too bad nobody makes rebound valves....

Cheers!

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K5Wee in Kanada (202,000Km and climbing)
IF YOU WON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS.....FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM

Rcas-

Thanks for the ride reports, that is good information! I think I'll take your lead here and go directly to 20W fork fluid. It will probably be next spring before I get to it, but I'll be sure to take up right where I left off.

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05 Red DL650- Madstat, Givi Windshield, RT Emulators, Sasquatch shock mods
07 YZ250F- my woods racer
07 WR250F- just barely street legal DS bike

hello fellow blue springers!

I just changed my front tire and figured it was a good opportunity to install my blue race tech springs.

It's getting scary how easy it is to get to the emulators now, i think it's my 5th time now?

My settings now are:
• blue spring at 2 turns (was at 1.5 turns with the yellow spring)
•belray 20 wt at 155mm oil level ( i was at 143mm but i was lazy and cheap and just reused the same oil, i think running less oil will be fine because i'm not getting close to bottoming even on pretty hard highway hits)
• .90 sonic springs
• closed rebound holes
• KB fork brace
• 155# rider

i'm hoping to get the emulator to pop off sooner on smaller hard edge surfaces. i was pretty happy with the rebound and compression on highway hard hits.
I still have to torque everything up and do a test ride.
I should report back by next weekend.

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K6 DL650
madstad, sw crash bars, OEM centerstand, sonic fork springs, racetech emulators, KB fork brace, ELKA shock 3-way w remote preload, caribou case panniers, krauser K5 topcase, blueseas fuse box, pro taper SE atv mid, cycra-probends, OEM heated grips, SW 1" bar risers, RichlandRick's dash shelf, cigar socket, powerlet socket, dual heat-troller, electric connections led voltmeter, eastern beavers headlight cut off/brakelight relay lead, garmin gpsmap 60 cx,