Chain & Sprockets - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL 650 up to 2011

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-26-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Chain & Sprockets

My stock chain & sprockets lasted 17K with absoutley no care other than a rare chain adjustment. The streched and worn chain did cause some wear on the top of the swing arm, clearly a sign of my neglecting it. I replaced the stock equipment with aluminum sprockets and a heavy duty chain. After 10K the rear sprocket needs to be replaced. What sprocket should I replace it with? 99% of my mileage is commuting on paved highways.
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post #2 of 8 Old 11-26-2012, 04:22 PM
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SPROCKET

Sv racing sprocket and chain set. They rock.

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(RIP Jan 12, 2013 due to lady pulling out to left from right side)
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-26-2012, 04:29 PM
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Steel Sprockets.............weight savings are pretty much "Nil" by going to Al-Yu-many-um unless you race MotoX or something. Lots of sprocket folks tell you their Aluminum units are hardened, coated, yadda, yadda for longer life. Why bother........just go with steel units.

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post #4 of 8 Old 11-26-2012, 04:40 PM
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Definitely steel. If you wore the upper rubber chain slider surface you may be running the chain too tight. Big no no. This stresses the counter sprocket bearing and slider wear increases.

Not saying you are too tight, but worn sliders are an indication you may be. Chain should be at 1.25 inch min to 1.75 or so max loose play on sidestand. Ignore what the manual says on this, 0.8 is too darn tight.

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-05-2012, 07:22 AM
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Steel for sure! Aluminum ones are mainly coated...from what ive heard. I run parts unlimited 525 o ring with sunstar sprockets. The SV stuff from this sight is super tough i hear...

04' Wee. ADVMOTOSTUFF bashplate, Suzuki handguards,Madstad,Anakee 2s, Givi crashbars,fender extender, 16t counter shaft, k&n filter,aluminium radiator &oil cooler guards, 1" bar risers, Garmin GPS, 12v accesory socket, Jessie panniers, voltmeter, MRA, and Saddleman saddle for my ass.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-05-2012, 09:19 PM
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Sprockets & Geariing

I changed the gearing from the stock 15/47 to 16/45. Chain is RK SXO 525 & is close to maintenance free as you can get. It dropped the rpms above 60 mph by about 1,000 rpms. I put steel rear on as weight doesn't matter that much. It doesn't bog coming from a stop but it isn't peppy until you get above 2,000 rpm to 2,500 rpm. It really makes it run very smooth on the open highway at 70 mph up to 90 mph. As you can see from the picture 75 mph indicated [70 mph actual] is about 5,000 rpm.


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post #7 of 8 Old 12-05-2012, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott E. Bonds View Post
If you wore the upper rubber chain slider surface you may be running the chain too tight. Big no no. This stresses the counter sprocket bearing and slider wear increases.

Not saying you are too tight, but worn sliders are an indication you may be. Chain should be at 1.25 inch min to 1.75 or so max loose play on sidestand. Ignore what the manual says on this, 0.8 is too darn tight.
Are you *certain* about this?... The chain on my Wee only touches the upper-rubber when it is floppy-LOOSE. Infact, when I hear the chain occasionally "ringing" the swingarm like a tuning-fork when decellerating.... I know it it too loose.

Conversely, as I tighten the chain, it lifts off the upper-rubber.
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-06-2012, 10:00 AM
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Also not so sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceP View Post
Are you *certain* about this?... The chain on my Wee only touches the upper-rubber when it is floppy-LOOSE. Infact, when I hear the chain occasionally "ringing" the swingarm like a tuning-fork when decellerating.... I know it it too loose.

Conversely, as I tighten the chain, it lifts off the upper-rubber.
Bruce I think you right there.
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