Heated Gear Relay Schematic - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL 650 up to 2011

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post #1 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Post Heated Gear Relay Schematic

Like most with the Wee I have power issues when using heated gear. At speed the bike has more than enough power to run my gerling jacket liner the T5 at full staying above 12v. However, Idling at a red light or traffic I watch my voltmeter slowly drop below 12v.
Our saving grace Greywolf gave me a solution what avoids adding a switch to cutting the power to one of the two headlights. This option is good if you only ride in the daylight but I ride daily so I ride at night and/or at dusk everyday so cutting off one headlight in my mind decreases rider visibility and visibility for other drivers to see me. Instead you tap into the brake light wiring, so when the brakes are applied the power going to the heated gear controller is cut off.
The idea around this power management option is when idling there is no wind chill also rider chooses whether to save power or continue to heat while idling simply applying the brake or not. (This also keeps both hands on the bars and eyes on the road instead of playing with dials) When the brakes are applied the normal closed contacts on the relay open and the power to the heat controller is cut off.
I am no expert at all but I am a visual person so I created a Relay Schematic which I thought others might like to see and use. NOTE: I have not tested this out yet but I will once I can get to Autozone for the material I need.
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File Type: jpg Heated Gear Relay Schematic.jpg (47.1 KB, 146 views)

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Last edited by nobie381; 11-14-2012 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Show the big picture
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 04:24 PM
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This is a very clever idea. Thanks for posting it.

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post #3 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
At speed the bike has more than enough power to run my gerling jacket liner the T5 at full staying above 12v. However, Idling at a red light or traffic I watch my voltmeter slowly drop below 12v.
Is this a problem for the short time you describe? The battery will recharge as soon as the engine rpms pick up when you take off through the green light or open traffic.

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post #4 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I only experience this while idle and would rather not put additional strain on the battery if I don't have too. Being I have never had a voltmeter on any vehicle my assumption is the volts are always at or above 12v when the bike/vehicle is running with a properly operating alternator.
Also if I ever add other gear/devices or use my outlets along with the heated gear I will only add to the power consumption issue.

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post #5 of 17 Old 11-14-2012, 05:36 PM
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Another reason for not adding a volt meter to my bike...

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post #6 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 07:59 AM
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I have an 09 wee and don't have any issues with my heated gear. I run the jacket liner and gloves and don't have any issues when idling at lights. I also have heated grips, I don't run them all the time but I have ran all at once with no problems.
I'm about to add some AUX lights so that may change.
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie98 View Post
I'm about to add some AUX lights so that may change.
Go with LEDs and it probably won't change.

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post #8 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
my assumption is the volts are always at or above 12v when the bike/vehicle is running with a properly operating alternator.
12 volts is only a nominal description of a vehicle electrical system. A fully charged "12 volt" battery is actually 12.7 volts. Our "12 volt" battery that actually measures 12.0 volts is 53% discharged.
File:Lead-acid voltage vs SOC.PNG - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Generators (alternators, etc.) are speed dependent. The faster they turn, the more voltage they put out. When the voltage exceeds the set point, the voltage regulator does its job and stops the voltage increase. Any voltage over 2.15 volts per cell (times six for our "12 volt" batteries, i. e. 12.9 volts) will put some power into the battery. Up to 14.7 to 14.8 volts can be used for a short time to rapidly recharge the battery, and the voltage dropped to the 13.5 to 13.8 volt range for the "float" to maintain the voltage.
How to charge sealed lead acid batteries.

So...for a short time a voltage a bit below 12 volts is OK. Longer term, voltage in the 13's is good. Voltage in the 14's is OK for a limited time to force the recharge into the battery.

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Last edited by PTRider; 11-15-2012 at 10:18 AM.
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post #9 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 11:35 AM
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I looked at the documentation for my other bike and found that the alternator is rated for a certain number of watts output at a certain RPM (in this case, 5000 RPM). One would expect the output to fall dramatically at 1/5 of the rated RPM.

The reason that authority models of motorcycles have two batteries (one usually is isolated to run radios and emergency lights) is because they can be expected to parked and ilding for extended periods of time with their lights and flashers and radios going.

Ultimately, the only time I would worry about this, is when I know the battery is on its last legs. Then I probably would not use the heated gear and would keep the revs up at stop lights.

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post #10 of 17 Old 11-15-2012, 12:17 PM
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Time spent idling and supplying a lower electrical output was low on my priority list for adding a brake activated relay. I did it mainly because I was getting too hot sitting at lights when the wind chill factor was removed and resetting the heat controls each time was a pain. Apply the brake when too warm is much better.

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