Alternator output - Page 2 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL 650 up to 2011

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post #11 of 24 Old 11-15-2012, 01:10 PM
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And I'd rather be able to run what I need without worrying about turning down anything, unplugging a headlight or whatever. Theres places to save weight that seem to me would allow for a teensy bit more alternator power, I just don't think Suzuki sees it as a priority. I don't think an effective alternator has to be huge and super heavy.
It really comes down to a budget bike and you don't get state of the art thinking and engineering. Hell, sometimes you don't get state of the art thinking and engineering on a much more expensive bike, neither of my Tigers had/has an electrical system that is more than barely adequate either.

Joe S.
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post #12 of 24 Old 11-15-2012, 03:55 PM
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I run Oxford grips (48w) and a TourMaster Synergy 2 vest (48w) on my commute. Stop and go, lots of lights. This morning it was just below freezing. No issues with K9 stock charging system, although I can see the grip controller cycling when I look at the headlight beam at night.

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post #13 of 24 Old 11-15-2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenT View Post
I can see the grip controller cycling when I look at the headlight beam at night.
That's a reason I went to HID lights. Besides drawing less, they are a constant brightness from 9V-16V.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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post #14 of 24 Old 11-15-2012, 04:16 PM
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Glent, an easy fix for the headlight arc issue is to install the VVME HID conversation kit. The HID arc is steady at 9-16v so a cycling variable heat controller doesn’t modulate the headlights brightness like it does with halogens. Plus if you get the 35w kit you get 3x more light using less power. I just did this install and wish I did it sooner.

2011 SUZUKI DL650 V-Strom ABS/Pearl Mirage White

Farkles: Aprilia Tuono mirrors / Pat Walsh Design Super Brace / DL1000 Seat / Givi engine guards / RR Peg Lowering Kit / Madstad Bkt w/ OEM or Givi Shield / PL532 & E41nn / SW-Motech CenterStand / EB PC-8 - 2x power outlets - Datel Voltmeter - Stebel Horn with PWD setup - Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID - 1157 LED Brake lights

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post #15 of 24 Old 11-15-2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobie381 View Post
Glent, an easy fix for the headlight arc issue is to install the VVME HID conversation kit. The HID arc is steady at 9-16v so a cycling variable heat controller doesn’t modulate the headlights brightness like it does with halogens. Plus if you get the 35w kit you get 3x more light using less power. I just did this install and wish I did it sooner.
I'll look into it. Thanks!

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post #16 of 24 Old 11-17-2012, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox View Post
if you think you are getting close on output reach down and unplug one headlight instant-- extra 55 watts for heat works well in north of MN
Gearbox
+1
Its quick and easy and does the job. You don't need both headlights anyway, especially in the daytime.

In the winter I run our '05 with heated grips plus heated jackets for me and my bride on the back. Never had a problem with that. The heaters in the jackets don't run full time, they cycle off and on. If you have a decent battery you should be OK. One of the jobs of the battery is to carry the load when demand exceeds supply from the generator. Again, the jackets are normally not on very much. The battery carries the surge and then recharges while the jackets "rest". No problems at all and we ride down to around 40-45 degrees.

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post #17 of 24 Old 11-19-2012, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobie381 View Post
Glent, an easy fix for the headlight arc issue is to install the VVME HID conversation kit. The HID arc is steady at 9-16v so a cycling variable heat controller doesn’t modulate the headlights brightness like it does with halogens. Plus if you get the 35w kit you get 3x more light using less power. I just did this install and wish I did it sooner.
What color temp did you go with?

Thanks,
Kevin
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post #18 of 24 Old 11-20-2012, 06:46 AM
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4300k, it's the most bang for the watts. it scatters less than the higher colors when there's moister in the air. And at night it doesn't put extra strain on the eyes.

2011 SUZUKI DL650 V-Strom ABS/Pearl Mirage White

Farkles: Aprilia Tuono mirrors / Pat Walsh Design Super Brace / DL1000 Seat / Givi engine guards / RR Peg Lowering Kit / Madstad Bkt w/ OEM or Givi Shield / PL532 & E41nn / SW-Motech CenterStand / EB PC-8 - 2x power outlets - Datel Voltmeter - Stebel Horn with PWD setup - Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID - 1157 LED Brake lights

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post #19 of 24 Old 11-20-2012, 10:12 AM
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Thanks- just ordered the kit.
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post #20 of 24 Old 11-20-2012, 01:01 PM
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Qbird,

Enjoy

As you search for install instructions look here:
HID's

I did the second option where I drilled into the sub frame to install the ballasts. I was a little worried but love the finish product. (I also helped Campion install his as well)

Other things you will need are: (If you install it the same way)
-14g wire
-heat shielding
-3x6mm (2in long machine screws) if I remember correctly.
-nylon nuts
-three aluminum spacers
-zip ties

2011 SUZUKI DL650 V-Strom ABS/Pearl Mirage White

Farkles: Aprilia Tuono mirrors / Pat Walsh Design Super Brace / DL1000 Seat / Givi engine guards / RR Peg Lowering Kit / Madstad Bkt w/ OEM or Givi Shield / PL532 & E41nn / SW-Motech CenterStand / EB PC-8 - 2x power outlets - Datel Voltmeter - Stebel Horn with PWD setup - Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID - 1157 LED Brake lights

Shiro Nakama Hachi [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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