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  #51  
Old 10-02-2012, 08:49 PM
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Sounds great - Looking forward to the new version
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  #52  
Old 10-08-2012, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMan73 View Post
Prices have gone down.
The main components in Version 2.0, which cost the majority are:
1. Arduino Nano - ~$13
2. I2C LCD - ~$9
3. Enclosure - $8
4. Power supply - ~$5
5. Mil. Spec Resistors - ~$5
6. Radio shack PCB - ~$2
7. EDIT: Temp Sensor: ~$3
I'm ready to start building this - can the code.google.com site be updated with parts lists? I have some experience with the Arduino, so that should not be a problem, but would need more details on which LCD you're using and which power supply.

I'll place the order for the Nano and get it loadable so when the next firmware rev is ready, I can blast it right in there

Hooray!!!!
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  #53  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shevett View Post
I'm ready to start building this - can the code.google.com site be updated with parts lists? I have some experience with the Arduino, so that should not be a problem, but would need more details on which LCD you're using and which power supply.

I'll place the order for the Nano and get it loadable so when the next firmware rev is ready, I can blast it right in there

Hooray!!!!
Great, I will be more than happy to assist you.

Nano is a great choice.
Regarding LCD - I got one that comes with I2C adapter on it. Makes life really easy. A regular LCD is going to be a problem as it uses many ports, and you don't have these ports available.
I2C is great because with 2 wires you get a bus that all I2C devices can share.
Look in ebay for:
"Serial IIC/I2C/TWI 1602 162 16X2 Character LCD Module Display For 5v Arduino"
For $8.59 it seems like a great deal.
Interesting thing about the LCD modules of this form factor, is that their holes match exactly the holes of the enclosure I used - HM1038-ND
You don't have to use that enclosure, but it should fit all the components nicely. If you look at the google code video and photos you can see the enclosure's dimension.


Power - I drew the power for the LCD from Arduino 5V port. I converted the 12V (~11V-15V) from the motorcycle's battery into a stable 9V using LM2940 and some related components as seen here
Then I fed the stable 9V into the Arduino's VIN port.

The Bill Of Materials I have for V1 is not 100% right for you since in V2 you don't need the following:
1. Arduino shield. Instead buy a cheap Radio shack thru hole PCB and headers and put all the components there (i.e. make it a 'nano shield'). I checked and the nano easily fits the 0.1'' PCB.
2. Enclosure for Arduino
3. Ethernet Dual Port
4. DS1631 Temperature Sensor
5. You probably don't need the 14V Zener - I was a bit paranoid

EDIT: I loaded the same firmware to the Nano. No issues. I didn't connect any peripherals, but the firmware works as designed, and I communicated with it using the serial port - it has kind of a console command line interface for diagnostics. No need to wait - just use it.
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Last edited by BigMan73; 10-08-2012 at 10:47 PM.
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  #54  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:46 AM
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Hi Bigman,

Thought I might give this a crack over Christmas break.

Is the above the list for V2? If not, did you get around to making a parts list to make it really easy for a noob like me? I can't seem to find the parts list?

So far I have ordered.

Display you suggested - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180934120...ht_4955wt_1397

Nano you suggested - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251177491...#ht_3975wt_906

A breadboard for playing with (I didn't know if I need a small one, so for $2 i just got this one) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120889799...ht_3562wt_1163



Cheers
Chris
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Last edited by ChrisGrind; 12-10-2012 at 04:04 PM.
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  #55  
Old 12-09-2012, 02:56 AM
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This is an awesome development!

I am really interested in particular in the fuel economy monitoring. What additional bits would be required to get the L/100km reading?

Is it just a matter of tapping into one of the fuel injectors and running it to the input of your circuit?

Then calibrating it later to know km and L consumed?
very interested and would build one if i could do this

thanks!
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  #56  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGrind View Post
Hi Bigman,

Thought I might give this a crack over Christmas break.

Is the above the list for V2? If not, did you get around to making a parts list to make it really easy for a noob like me? I can't seem to find the parts list?

So far I have ordered.

Display you suggested - eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Nano you suggested - eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

A breadboard for playing with (I didn't know if I need a small one, so for $2 i just got this one) eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d



Cheers
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGrind View Post
Hi Bigman,

Thought I might give this a crack over Christmas break.

Is the above the list for V2? If not, did you get around to making a parts list to make it really easy for a noob like me? I can't seem to find the parts list?

So far I have ordered.

Display you suggested - eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Nano you suggested - eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

A breadboard for playing with (I didn't know if I need a small one, so for $2 i just got this one) eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d



Cheers
Chris
Sorry Chris. I am/was busy with work/life..
You are on track - The nano and display you got should get you going.
You need:
1. I2C temperature sensor - Look for DS18B20 on fleabay
2. I2C Pull Up Resistors - 10KOhm, 1/8W
3. PhotoCell (CdS) - DIGIKEY: PDV-P8001-ND
4. PhotoCell Resistor - 10KOhm, 1/8W
5. 2 mil spec resistors for accurate battery voltage divider. You need to divide 20V to 5V. So it is 4:1 ratio. I will look up the exact values, but it is around 1MOhm for the larger one.
6. 6 X Leds - one for each gear (pick your colors)
7. 6 X Led Resistors - 1KOhm, 1/8W
8. Gear voltage divider - Mil Spec, I will look up the exact values, around 1MOhm.
9. Enclosure for LCD/LED display


Optionally and recommended, if don't trust the Arduino's ability to cope with the bike's 14V:
14V Zener Diode DIGIKEY: 1N5244B-TPCT-ND
16Ohm current limiter DIGIKEY: P16W-3BK-ND
LM2940 9V REGULATOR DIGIKEY: LM2940T-9.0-ND
LM2940 5V REGULATOR DIGIKEY: LM2940T-5.0-ND
Cin1 220uF capacitor DIGIKEY: P5541-ND
Cin2 0.47uF ceramic capacitor DIGIKEY: 445-2870-ND
Cout 22uF alum capacitor DIGIKEY: P12927-ND
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  #57  
Old 12-11-2012, 03:05 AM
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Hi Bigman,

thanks for your help

Mil Spec Resistor
What is a Mil Spec resistor?

Normal Resistors
Are the other resistors mentioned just a normal resistor like this http://www.basicmicro.com/assets/ima...m_resistor.jpg do I need to worry about carbon vs film ?? (sorry I have no idea!)

Temp Sensor

Which type should I get? I assume the waterproof one?
High Quality Waterproof Digital Temperature Temp Sensor Thermal Probe DS18B20 | eBay

1pcs DS18B20 Thermometer Temperature Sensor Dalla IC | eBay

LM2940 9V REGULATOR DIGIKEY: LM2940T-9.0-ND

This appears to have a minumum buy at $540!

LM2940T-9.0 Texas Instruments | LM2940T-9.0-ND | DigiKey


Is this the same thing? note the ND is missing
LM2940T-9.0 - NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR - IC, V REG LDO +9.0V, 2940, TO | element14 Australia


Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it and am looking forward to it.

extra questions

1) what am I going to wire it all to? i assume I need a PCB or something? Any advice on which one?
2) How do I go about remote mount...you mentioned Ethernet connections...any links/part numbers for that?
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Last edited by ChrisGrind; 12-11-2012 at 04:34 AM.
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  #58  
Old 12-11-2012, 06:52 PM
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Military spec resistors are very accurate resistors, that change very little in resistance when the temperature changes. For voltage dividers that is a critical attribute, otherwise the divider ratio changes with temperature, in a non linear way. Then you get bad readings and it is impossible to accurately fix it.
The problem is that they are expensive. As in a $ per one resistor.

For the gear divider I got these:
CMF55499K00BEEB Vishay Dale | CMF499KHBCT-ND | DigiKey

Two of these will make a perfect 2:1 divider ratio. It reduces 5V -> 2.5V yet keeps a very high impedance. You don't want small value resistors, the ECU is affected by the voltage drop (current draw) and complains with a nasty FI Code..

For the battery divider I got these:
332K Ohm
CMF55332K00BEEB Vishay Dale | CMF332KHBCT-ND | DigiKey
and
953K Ohm
CMF55953K00BEEB Vishay Dale | CMF953KHBCT-ND | DigiKey

Which gives a divider ratio of 332 / (332 + 953) = 3.87:1
Which is great the battery divider circuit. (~19V -> ~5V)

Temp Sensor
I got the one similar to the 2nd link (not waterproof). It is inside the waterproof enclosure, so there is really no need to get the waterproof version.
The temperatures inside the enclosure are not that different then outside it. YMMV.

LM2940
You can also get the 5V version, but then don't connect the 5V output of LM2940 to VIN port but directly to the 5V port of Arduino. It will basically bypass Arudino's power converter and rely on a stable 5V from LM2940, which is just fine. I went with the 9V because I was paranoid..
But there are 9V for $1.15, for example:
LM2940T-9.0 - LM2940 9V 1A Low Dropout Regulator

The advantage with the 5V is that it would work even if the battery is below 10V (Hint: If your battery is there, it is pretty much dead..)
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  #59  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:19 AM
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thanks and I think just 2 more questions, then I'll double check my items.

1) you mentioned earlier "I2C Pull Up Resistors - 10KOhm, 1/8W" not knowing what I am looking for, I just looked at digikey, they all seem to be in V and mA, not ohm and W ? Can I trouble you again to link me to a product code please? And how many do I need?

2) Is the "PhotoCell Resistor -10KOhm, 1/8W" just a normal resistor? How many?

3) PCB - What do you think I should I get to put this all together with the Nano?

I'll have to try and find an Australian source - Digikey want $34 postage :S

Thanks again
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Last edited by ChrisGrind; 12-12-2012 at 12:34 AM.
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  #60  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:47 AM
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I2C Pull Up resistors, Photo cell resistor - any cheap/decent/'normal' resistor. Fleabay will do just fine (or Radioshack, etc.)

PCB - I would buy a cheap $2.5 DIY throughhole PCB and solder all the components on it.
Multipurpose PC Board with 417 Holes : PC Boards | RadioShack.com

then just connect the Arduino port to the PCB holes with wires. You can also put the arduino on top/below the PCB if you want, but attaching it to 2-empty holes with screws.

If you want to go wild and spend money you can design your own PCB.

But before you solder anything just use a breadboard to test that everything works. Only then solder.
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