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Stromputer is alive

189K views 770 replies 89 participants last post by  p38arover 
#1 ·
I started another thread months ago ("MK 1B") but it got long and very technical, so I decided to create a new one.

Basically I invented a digital solution that shows the current ambient temperature, current gear position and current battery level in an LCD display, gears showing also as LEDs. The solution is based on Arduino (AVR) microcontroller and can (and will be) expanded to have more advanced features - MPG (Miles Per Gallon) display is high on my list. If a GSA has it, so will the Wee! :) I also think of adding connectivity to smartphone via Bluetooth (e.g. show incoming SMS messages). The Arduino is a very capable and extensible platform.

I got some help from good Stromtroopers along the way (you know who you are.. :hurray:), had some bugs and fixed them, and did many experiments until everything got to work, but it really works now! The prototype is mounted on my bike and works great.



The core costs of the initial prototype were a bit high - about $110, not taking into account the mounting (RAM in my case) and other R&D costs (extra parts, wrong parts..). That been said, it is still cheaper than getting a 3rd Party Gear Position Indicator that does just that function.

The project is also open source: stromputer - Display enhancement for Suzuki V-Strom motorcycles (and others) based on Arduino - Google Project Hosting

I think the project is now ready to move to the next phase, which is more optimal and also much cheaper. I have clear ideas on how to make it cheaper - in particular consolidating all electronics into one box instead of two as it is today.

BTW: There is another project by Voltar, which is more of a DIY gear position indicator.
 
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#525 · (Edited)
Testing gear display and circuit without connecting to the motorcycle

If you have Stromputer assembled and want to test that the gear circuit is working, before connecting to the motorcycle, you can take the green wire and temporarily connect it to the 5V pin or (5V on PCB), later on to the 3.3V pin of Arduino and finally to GND pin of Arduino (or GND on PCB)

5V should give you a reading of Netural, and the first gear green LED should blink
3.3V should give you a reading of 4th gear, and the 4 left most LEDs should light
If you connect it to GND, then 1st gear should show, with the left most green LED lighting (not blinking)

Hope this is explanation is clear. It is pretty simple, but if you're not sure about what I just said, don't do it and let me know. I don't want you guys to short anything.
 
#527 ·
Design and 3D Printing of an enclosure

I still think we need a better custom fitted enclosure.

Check this out, amazing stuff
 
#528 ·
On the subject of enclosures - I did a fair bit of research a few weeks ago into enclosures I thought might fit the PCB. I narrowed the field down to a very short list.

I'd appreciate if one of the project leaders (or anyone really) took a look over my suggestions. You're likely to have a sharper eye for some of the size details and might spot something that could help narrow it down further.

Here's the link again: http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?p=1470721
 
#529 ·
On the subject of enclosures - I did a fair bit of research a few weeks ago into enclosures I thought might fit the PCB. I narrowed the field down to a very short list.

I'd appreciate if one of the project leaders (or anyone really) took a look over my suggestions. You're likely to have a sharper eye for some of the size details and might spot something that could help narrow it down further.

Here's the link again: Stromputer is alive - Page 47 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
Hi Shiny,
Sorry, I wasn't ignoring you, it somehow slipped. If you look a the date you posted.. it was right after coming back from 8 days in Maine and meeting with the awesome NE Stromtroopers in Adirondacks. So I was a bit out of focus :green_lol:

The enclosures SRB53-1TC1BC/SRB53-1TC1BB/SRB53-1TC1BG are similar, just different colors.
The PCB dimensions are: 107mm x 64mm
While they look great, they won't fit the PCB.



If you look at the datasheet you will see that the internal dimensions are 96.01mm x 74.04mm



PNR-2602-C-ND:
PCB won't fit and (96mm), and even if it did fit the C model is 55mm tall (i.e. deep) which is exactly the same as the one listed in the BOM.


NBF-32402-ND:
The PCB would fit, but this enclosure is huge, even bigger than the current one that shows on the BOM.
Height (G) = 64mm

We need to keep looking or just find somebody that can design a custom enclosure and make it.

Alternatively, we can produce another PCB, much smaller after first carefully selecting a smaller enclosure.
 
#531 · (Edited)
***SOLD***: my basic Stromputer components. It looks like my wee will soon be replaced by a Triumph Tiger and given my bad electronics skills, there's no chance this will get built any time soon.



I have two PCBs, I got an extra on the assumption I'd burn or melt one while trying to build it.

Arduino Nano V3.0 ATMEGA328P, I opened the bag and installed an early version of the 'puter code a few months ago and got it working fine.

IIC/I2C/TWI/SP​​I Serial Interface1602 16X2 Character LCD, still sealed in its bag.


Thanks,
Tom
 
#533 ·
I tried them when they were farnell, after getting all excited at the cheap prices, they too wanted something like $80 delivery :S

Let me know if you guys find different.

I haven't tried the larger resistors on the PCB (maybe next week) but I am hoping to just stand them up.
 
#535 · (Edited)
Mac SVN

The wiki recommends using Smart SVN. However, Subversion is built into Mac OS v10.6.8 and above as part of the operating environment. It can be invoked by dropping into a shell (i.e. run Terminal program) and type the "svn" command. It has all the options available to it as would a Unix based svn. No need for a third-party program to be installed.

Code:
MacBook-Pro:~ $ svn ?
usage: svn <subcommand> [options] [args]
Subversion command-line client, version 1.6.17.
Type 'svn help <subcommand>' for help on a specific subcommand.
Type 'svn --version' to see the program version and RA modules
  or 'svn --version --quiet' to see just the version number.

Most subcommands take file and/or directory arguments, recursing
on the directories.  If no arguments are supplied to such a
command, it recurses on the current directory (inclusive) by default.

Available subcommands:
   add
   blame (praise, annotate, ann)
   cat
   changelist (cl)
   checkout (co)
   cleanup
   commit (ci)
   copy (cp)
   delete (del, remove, rm)
   diff (di)
   export
   help (?, h)
   import
   info
   list (ls)
   lock
   log
   merge
   mergeinfo
   mkdir
   move (mv, rename, ren)
   propdel (pdel, pd)
   propedit (pedit, pe)
   propget (pget, pg)
   proplist (plist, pl)
   propset (pset, ps)
   resolve
   resolved
   revert
   status (stat, st)
   switch (sw)
   unlock
   update (up)

Subversion is a tool for version control.
For additional information, see http://subversion.tigris.org/
MacBook-Pro:~ $
 
#536 ·
The wiki recommends using Smart SVN. However, Subversion is built into Mac OS v10.6.8 and above as part of the operating environment. It can be invoked by dropping into a shell (i.e. run Terminal program) and type the "svn" command. It has all the options available to it as would a Unix based svn. No need for a third-party program to be installed.
Thanks Rob!
If you'd like I can give you edit access to the Wiki, so you can fix that page or any other one while you're developing your "Beemer Stromputer" :)
 
#537 · (Edited)
Hi Yuval,

I stumbled across Stromputer a couple of days ago while searching for information about TimedAction library information, of all things. Surprisingly this search was to help with my current project, an Arduino based controller to interface to my BMW K75 motorcycle. I was pleased to see how far along this project of yours has come. I got excited because you have solved many of the hurdles that I see I have yet to encounter.

This discovery has changed my tack and I think that I'll base any project I develop off of Stromputer.

I thought I'd inform others about my intended parallel development. The features I want to add to or change on the Stromputer (that I will engineer, mind you) are:

- support for the BMW transmission gear position indicator (TGPI) switch on the K75/K100. BMW uses a 4-wire Binary-coded Decimal (BCD) switch (not a voltage level on a single wire like the V-strom) to indicate currently selected gear.
- support for fuel level indication and reserve tank warning. This would be a true % indication with anti-slosh feature to stabilize the reading from motorcycle movement.
- support for the K75/K100 start circuit. The bike needs a signal to enable the start circuit when in neutral.
- possibly repurposing the 6 LEDs
- possibly a circuit to condition the sinusoidal output of the Variable Reluctance speed sensor into a digital signal compatible with modern gauges. This feature would eliminate the need to install another speed sensor when one is already available.

This computer could take off in the BMW sphere because it is popular now to customize BMW Classic Ks into cafe racers, including stripping them of their large fairings and making them naked. this sometimes means replacing their 80s instrument cluster with a modern speedometer unit. The BMW instrument cluster has much of this functionality inside it and its removal tends to be problematic.

Thanks for your efforts on this computer.

Best Regards,
Robert.
 
#538 · (Edited)
Thinking of ideas for future mods?

Take a look at this cunning GPI that a bloke in the UK makes for the Yamaha XJR1300. His is a bit different in that one has to send the instrument binnacle off for modification. I'd consider getting mine done if I lived in the UK.

XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator - YouTube

The switch he presses is the existing switch for the tripmeter and clock. Note when he uses the word "clocks" he is referring to the instruments not the rime clock.

Re the programming for each gear position, would something like that be applicable to the Stromputer to obviate the need for the precision resistor voltage divider? He uses a modded neutral switch. YAMAHA XJR OWNERS CLUB • View topic - XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator mod update

YAMAHA XJR OWNERS CLUB • View topic - XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator mod update

He does the same for the Suzuki GSX1400 http://www.smart-tech-services.co.uk/GSX1400/GearPosInd.htm

I don't know if the GSX1400 uses the same method of GPI detection as the Strom.

Another addition to the Stromputer might be a sidestand down indicator maybe using the GPI LEDs as is done for the XJR.
 
#540 ·
Thinking of ideas for future mods?

Take a look at this cunning GPI that a bloke in the UK makes for the Yamaha XJR1300. His is a bit different in that one has to send the instrument binnacle off for modification. I'd consider getting mine done if I lived in the UK.

XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator - YouTube

The switch he presses is the existing switch for the tripmeter and clock. Note when he uses the word "clocks" he is referring to the instruments not the rime clock.

Re the programming for each gear position, would something like that be applicable to the Stromputer to obviate the need for the precision resistor voltage divider? He uses a modded neutral switch. YAMAHA XJR OWNERS CLUB • View topic - XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator mod update

YAMAHA XJR OWNERS CLUB • View topic - XJR1300 Gear Position Indicator mod update

He does the same for the Suzuki GSX1400 http://www.smart-tech-services.co.uk/GSX1400/GearPosInd.htm

I don't know if the GSX1400 uses the same method of GPI detection as the Strom.

Another addition to the Stromputer might be a sidestand down indicator maybe using the GPI LEDS as is done for the XJR.
The sidestand indicator is an awesome idea, and also very simple to implement.
Just a 5V line that needs to be sampled. When the switch is closed (side stand down) that voltage is detected and then Stromputer blinks all LEDs quickly and shows in the LCD:
SIDESTAND DOWN!
== LIFT IT UP ==


Sure, I can update that page if you give me the access. PM me with what I need to provide you.

I'll have to come up with a name for the computer. Classic K's are known as Flying Bricks (old BMW twins as Airheads, new BMW twins as Oilheads or Hexheads). Maybe "Brickuino" as a merge between "Flying Brick" and Arduino.
Nice name! :thumbup:
 
#541 ·
So I'm pretty far into populating the PCB, but embarassingly I'm having trouble finding where the resistor for 'Rin' should actually go. I see it silkscreened onto the board, but which holes does it go in? Based on the schematic, it should sit between input of the the LM2940 and Cin2.

Does anyone maybe have a shot of the componentry on a completed board to reference, or can show it with a few dots in mspaint on the pcb diagram?
 
#547 ·
So I'm referencing the NHD display's spec sheet, I find it kind of sucks. Pins have descriptions, but nowhere is it clear which pin is which, and it isn't silkscreened onto the PCB.

I found the following image, which shows which pin is which:

LCD_I2C_HookupArduino | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

The screen is a little different from mine, but it seems that pin 1 is square, so when viewed to the left when looking at the face of the screen, pins are:
1: SPISS
2: SDO
3: SCL
4: SDA
5: VSS (Ground)
6: VDD (+5v)

Is that accurate?
 
#548 ·
You need to use exactly 4 pins -
VSS - Connect to Stromputer ground pins, there are some
VDD/+5v - Connect to Stromputer 5V pins, there are some
SDA - I2C Data, Connect to Stromputer SDA hole (middle of PCB, just below the Arduino Nano)
SCL - I2C Clock, Connect to Stromputer SCL hole (middle of PCB, just below the Arduino Nano, a little to the left of Stromputer's SDA hole)

Leave SDO and SPISS unconnected - they are not part of the I2C protocol
 
#549 ·
So I've got it all soldered up, but I'm not getting anything on the screen. The backlight works though, and the LEDs do their dance on startup. I have reconfirmed the screen is wired per the labels on the stromputer PCB. I have placed a jumper across R1, as prescribed by the spec sheet, using solder. It's probably not the right way to do it, but I don't know why it shouldn't work.

Any suggestions for what to check?

------- Stromputer, Firmware version: 3.01
VCC = 4.537mV
-- CONFIG --
IsValidConfig (Raw Value): 10000
IsValidConfig: N
temperatureMode Mode: F
>> LCD Initializing..
>> LCD Initialized
>> Show all Gear LEDs
>> Show Welcome - BEGIN..
>> Show Welcome - END
>> Stromputer ON. Ready to Rock! <<
 
#550 · (Edited)
I would recheck that R1 jumper - it is a known source of issues. Others also had issues with the NHD LCD due to that.
Before you started soldering, did you try testing the NHD LCD in its test mode to see that it works?
Did you solder the I2C resistors for both SCL and SDA?
I2C lines must be pulled up.

EDIT: Please post photos of your Stromputer PCB (close up) and the LCD pins.
EDIT2: Did you set the LCD type to NHD in the firmware? What is the exact NHD model you got? Maybe it has a different I2C address?
 
#552 ·
I'll take another look.
There is another possibility which might not be your fault.
When the PCB pin issue was found I had done a fix to the YwRobot LCD library to support bit banging (i.e. manual I2C with custom pins).
I did NOT test with the NHD LCD.
Let me check again the NHD LCD library source.
There is an new NHD LCD in my lab, and I can and should verify that the new firmware works with it.
But that would take a few days or even a week (Off this weekend for an ADV in PA..:fineprint:)
 
#553 ·
It works!

Well, after much procrastination, I've finally got the box (at least temporarily) mounted with the help of some industrial-strength hook-and-loop. Of course, I can't actually post a link of the photos or video, because there's apparently a new limit of 50 posts before I can do so. :furious:

The yellow and white lights are ridiculously difficult to see, so that'll require some firmware adjustment (I hope), but green and blue are brilliant. At least I know when I'm in sixth.
 
#554 ·
Well, after much procrastination, I've finally got the box (at least temporarily) mounted with the help of some industrial-strength hook-and-loop. Of course, I can't actually post a link of the photos or video, because there's apparently a new limit of 50 posts before I can do so. :furious:

The yellow and white lights are ridiculously difficult to see, so that'll require some firmware adjustment (I hope), but green and blue are brilliant. At least I know when I'm in sixth.
:hurray:

Please send me an email with the photos (stromputer at gmail dot com), and I will post it here.
As for dim LEDs:
1. Firmware changes can help for sure - I mentioned that before, but can point out again where this needs to be tweaked. Please let me know what values work for you

If that doesn't help:
2. Change the LED resistors for those LEDs to a smaller value (e.g. 330Ohm)
 
#562 ·
Another video by IW4

This time at night :fineprint:



Let's get those yellow LEDs fixed ASAP :headbang:
It is almost perfect, another small effort.
 
#569 ·
Is that inside the Stromputer box? I was going to remote mount the temp sensor (I am interested in ambient air temp) but maybe I should keep it in the box to make sure it doesn't cause a fire?

I haven't had much luck so far, all my resistors etc worked great on my breadboard with old firmware, but new firmware and move to PCB (shouldn't have done it at the same time!) resulted in the Voltage Reg working, LEDS working (not wired to bike yet though), but the LCD isn't and the battery voltage reads wrong :(

I am on holidays for week (camping) no power, no mobile phone reception... will keep trying when I get home.
 
#570 ·
If you have already installed the 1k resistors and want to try a different value, you have a couple of options, viz.,

1. Remove and replace them

2. Try a parallel resistor to reduce the effective resistance.

Option 1 is fraught with danger of damaging the PCB unless you are very careful so I wouldn't recommend it until you are sure of the value you want.

For test purposes, try a parallel resistor. If you solder another 1k resistor in parallel, then the effective resistance will be 500 ohms.

There is a formula for this but you might as well use this calculator as you can enter 1000 ohm for R1 and also the desired resistance Rt. it will give you the resistor you need to parallel.

Parallel Resistor Calculator R1 + R2 = equivalent resistor R resistance equiv total resistor finder made easy - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
 
#572 ·
I was an electronics tech and I have vacuum desoldering equipment but even so I'd be worried about damaging the PCB. The solder pads are very small and the holes are plated through. That makes it a bit more difficult to remove components. It is very easy to overheat the solder pads and lift them off the PCB.

Personally, I wouldn't even attempt to save components when desoldering them. I'd cut them out leaving enough lead to be able to pull it out while the solder is molten.

Clearing the plated through hole may still be a problem - they are very small diameter holes. You may have to apply more solder then suck it out with a solder sucker. You will have to be extremely careful to not overheat the solder pad.

I can't give definitive advice on this PCB as I haven't yet tried to remove any components.
 
#573 · (Edited)
Guys,
I think I have chose the wrong parts for the yellow LCD in the BOM.
I do apologize for that, should have verified more carefully.
The
I think that we should look for another yellow LED, one that has much more brightness. For example: (@5700mcd)
365-1183-ND Yellow LED

I did not test this part, so I would need your help.
The resistor doesn't seem to be the root cause issue, given that the original yellow LCD has a poor luminosity of 40mcd :headbang:

I'm sure there are many similar LEDs that would do the trick.

The good news is that it costs 19c, but the not so good news is that replacing the LED needs to be done really carefully, not to harm the PCB.

Sorry about this inconvenience! part of R&D pain, but I should have tested better. This summer has been packed and I didn't get to build Stromputer V3 myself from scratch, and that is part of the problem here.

I will change the BOM to have this new part #, if you find a better part# and/or verify that this works or not, I will change the BOM again.
 
#574 ·
BigMan,

Any specific reason you chose those colors for the LED's initially?? Not specifically the yellow but in general?? I would avoid red because they generally represent a problem but green, blue, etc all seem to be OK. I do see a spot for a RGB LED for a future enhancement but just wondering.

Thanks,

Rick
 
#575 · (Edited)
The decision was arbitrary, by has some reasoning:
1. Green is an 'OK' color. I wanted the first gear and N to symbolize that.
2. White and Blue are also 'good' colors.
3. Red is a bad color and should be used for errors only
4. Yellow is many times a warning color, but I saw that it doesn't mean that when used in context of more advanced gears, since the other LEDs are already lit - i.e. yellow alone means 'warning', but not alone is OK
4. I used Blue in single color for 6th gear, since it is easy on the eyes and different - so it would be a good choice for Over Drive (and I think it has proved to be a really good choice for that, IMO riding for many miles with Stromputer).

RGB LED - The PCB in fact does have support for one RGB LED! :fineprint:
The current Firmware (3.01) doesn't support it, but it can be easily done, and the firmware update is quick and super easy.
 
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