I've had rust and pitting on my forks for years as a result of living in a salty environment then moving to a humid one. I scrub with with steel wool and apply a treatment of ACF50 as per some recommendations here and it always comes back. I just ride it. The only issue is that if you hit a big enough bump and the rust spots can damage the fork seals if they come into contact with each other. I haven't had any problems with it.
I also use plain steel wool with no detergents. Then wipe it with ATF, leaving a film on. When I worked on aircraft, part of the daily inspection was to wipe the struts clean with hydraulic fluid.
First, use extra fine steel wool from the hardware store, not an old Brillo pad.
Second, be careful about how hard you scrub. Chrome plating is very thin and it's easy to get a little too enthusiastic and go right through it. Not good if that happens.
My forks were badly pitted and rusted when I bought it after it had been parked near the ocean for 7 years. It was pitted enough to damage the seals. I polished back the rough spots and treated the rust inside the pits prior to filling them with with super glue. It was then polised smooth. Its has been working well now for nearly 3 years. I would recommend using epoxy if I had to do it again.
I'd be trying Solvol Autosol if you can source it. It's a chrome and metal polish - a very mild abrasive and safer than steel wool.
I like the idea of filling the mark (hole) with superglue. Once started rust will always come back if not removed and sealed out.
Surely rust can only occur if the tube becomes dry so if your bike is stored outside or in a salty environment put some fork oil (or any oil) on a rag and wipe the tubes down every once in a while.
Some great products to prevent rust are ACF-50, Boeshield T-9, LPS #3, Corrosion Block, and Fluid Film. The LPS is probably the thickest and stickiest, and the Boeshield the thinnest. Any of these will hold dirt. A good wax coating is a clean, short term fix.
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StromTrooper
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