Rebuild or replacing wear items - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 04-19-2017, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 141
Rebuild or replacing wear items

So my 2011 is officially 5 years old and hasn't exactly had the easiest life living outside and all. I'm wondering if and when you folks with older bikes have rebuilt or replaced your rubber components and non-service oils e.g. brakes, coolant hoses, fork oil, rear shock maintenance.

The rubber on my calipers seems fine and I've re-greased the slider pins twice in the 5 years, front forks aren't leaking, neither is the rear shock (preload works fine), coolant hoses aren't cracking or leaking. I don't want these to go out when I'm on a long trip, but I also don't want to spend a few hundred bucks rebuilding my front calipers if I don't need to (I guess I could do a 4 pot upgrade). When should the front fork oil be replaced anyways?

What say you? Leave it or start rebuilding before it becomes an issue?

2011 DL650

Last edited by Copernicus; 04-19-2017 at 11:06 AM.
Copernicus is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 13 Old 04-19-2017, 11:46 AM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mississauga, ON
Posts: 1,895
perhaps the info. on mileage would help
Rick123 is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 04-19-2017, 12:00 PM
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 100
You don't say how many miles you have on your bike. Also mileage on/off road?

I have an 11' with 30K. My hoses also look fine, just had them off to check valves. Changed fork oil at 22K, had a seal leak (found seal lip tucked under/spring touching tube). Brakes are fine, fluid change only. I would take my bike across the country right now without any worries (maybe a new battery-original). If I were concerned about something on a long trip, I would change it just for peace of mind. But my thoughts on this bike is run it if they look good.
Mikeys is offline  
post #4 of 13 Old 04-19-2017, 07:44 PM
PTRider's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Washington, the state
Posts: 7,364
Take a good look at the rubber parts. Hold a brake hose in your hand and squeeze the lever with the other hand. If the hose doesn't swell with pressure, and it looks good, it is good. Look at & squeeze the coolant hoses. I've known good riders who insist that yearly renewal of the fork oil improves the ride. I haven't done that. The fork oil is always gunky looking due to the aluminum particles worn off the outer tubes by the movement of the bushings. While you're in the forks, consider different springs to suit your loaded riding weight and perhaps improved damping valves like the Cogent Dynamics Drop in Damper Cartridges. The shock will tell you when it's in need of service.

[I]"Older people who are reasonable, good-tempered, and gracious will bear aging well. Those who are mean-spirited and irritable will be unhappy at every period of their lives.

"Let each of use properly whatever strengths he has and strive to use them well. If he does this, he will never find himself lacking."[/I]

Marcus Tullius Cicero
44 B.C.
PTRider is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 04-20-2017, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 141
Sorry I forgot to mention mileage. Currently sitting at about 41k. All pavement.

Thanks for the input everyone. I will check the hoses with a squeeze. They look fine - no cracks or separation that I can see. I was mostly just looking to see what everyone else has done with their 5+ year old bikes and the rubber bits on the,.

2011 DL650
Copernicus is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 04-20-2017, 12:56 AM
Macdoc's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ontario Canada/Cairns Aus
Posts: 2,402
I'd only worry 10 years out unless the bike has been exposed to the elements.
5 years...ppffft.

My ST1100 was 21 years old and owned it for a year and no issues except a failed clutch cylinder - that was age.
My KLR is 12 years old and stored outside tho not always in the elements ...tropical heat .....rubber bits are fine ...Japanese are making decent bikes.

There is a big streak in me that says leave it alone until it fails ( other than the obvious bits like tires and replacing brake pads and once in a while brake fluid).
middo likes this.

Ontario Canada rider staying in Cairns Australian Feb to May & Aug-Oct each year
Australia> 04 KLR650 93 ST1100 sold Canada > 10 Wee ABS 2009 CBF1000 09 Burgman Exec sold 10 NT700v sold
Travel photos>

Last edited by Macdoc; 04-20-2017 at 12:59 AM.
Macdoc is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 04-20-2017, 09:44 AM
blaustrom's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: north east, Buffalo NY area
Posts: 1,075
If the bike still has all the original fluids (other than engine) I would change all the fluids. My bike was 12 years old and had all the original rubber parts and was just fine.

Consider the fork work suggested earlier and in the off season getting the shock re-built (maybe with heavier spring, modified valving). Both transform the bike, at least did in my case and I should have done it much sooner.

No need to rebuild the calipers if they are moving freely. The 4 pot conversion is another improvement I did which I liked a lot and also should have done much sooner.

Last edited by blaustrom; 04-20-2017 at 09:47 AM.
blaustrom is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 04-20-2017, 12:52 PM
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Midwest snow country
Posts: 309
Rubber failure is caused either by oxidation due to exposure to sunlight or decomposition from atmospheric contact. You can protect against oxidation by covering the bike during daylight and a coating of silicone spray. Do not spray the tires!!! The atmosphere may contain contaminants from a variety of sources. We think of the air spewing from our manufacturing smoke stacks as the big offender but the EPA has done a pretty good job cleaning them up. The "quiet" offenders are things like print shops, chemical plants, painters, even fabricators and weld shops. They add volatile substances to the air that may not harm humans but are bad for things you use, particularly rubber parts. Even distributors who merely store chemicals and industrial things can emit large amounts of volatile chemicals into the atmosphere that are absorbed by the rubber parts on your bike. Keep it clean and coated with some sort of protectorant. Electrical power stations and electric motors create ozone, which is very reactive in the atmosphere. Living near a power station or a place with large electric motors can create pockets of reactive ozone that won't hurt living things but raise havoc with rubber. I read that rubber windshield wipers don'[t actually wear out, they dry out and crack. Then they peal. You can greatly enhance the life of your rubber w/w wipers with an occasional cleaning and coating of silicone. It should work with hoses and seals as well.
Wee Willy Winky is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 04-20-2017, 05:56 PM
Downs's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,136
I'm on an 04 with 75ish thousand miles. I think You'll still be good to go on a 6 year old bike on anything outside of normal wear items like brakes and what not. I'm just now replacing the brake lines with stainless braided lines and a few other odds and ends that have worn out like the fuel line between the two throttle bodies.

2004 DL650 "HMMVStrom"
1978 Suzuki GS1000 "Tennessee Hillbilly"
1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport "Jeepalina"
My channel ^^^
Downs is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 04-21-2017, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 141
Sounds like it's a leave it alone situation. Thanks all. I've changed the brake fluid twice since I've owned it. Did the pads, regular oil changes around 6k, tires, 2 valve checks and that's about it. Bought it new in Feb of 2012.

2011 DL650
Copernicus is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome