Fuel pump diagnostic help - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump diagnostic help

My trusty 07 DL650A seems to have a fuel pump issue, and I'd really appreciate the wiser minds here checking my logic before I spend big bucks on a new pump.

Symptoms: won't start. Starter cranks but engine won't fire. I do not hear the usual sound of the fuel pump energizing/ running. I have taken the following steps:

Fuse: checked with multimeter and even swapped it. It's good. The fuse block is getting 12v.

Relay: audible click when key is turned, clicks again after a few seconds. 12V on both sides of the relay (relay plug and 3-pin plug near the fuel pump) for a few seconds when I turn they key, then drops to near zero. I assume this is to "prime" the pump, and the voltage drops when it doesn't sense the engine is running?

If I'm correct so far, am I also correct in thinking the fuel pump is bad? I'll add that I bought the bike used, and the fuel pump has always been noisy, so perhaps I failed to recognize the significance of that.

I'd appreciate any thoughts. I'm very much an amateur at this!
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TK421 View Post
My trusty 07 DL650A seems to have a fuel pump issue, and I'd really appreciate the wiser minds here checking my logic before I spend big bucks on a new pump.

Symptoms: won't start. Starter cranks but engine won't fire. I do not hear the usual sound of the fuel pump energizing/ running. I have taken the following steps:

Fuse: checked with multimeter and even swapped it. It's good. The fuse block is getting 12v.

Relay: audible click when key is turned, clicks again after a few seconds. 12V on both sides of the relay (relay plug and 3-pin plug near the fuel pump) for a few seconds when I turn they key, then drops to near zero. I assume this is to "prime" the pump, and the voltage drops when it doesn't sense the engine is running?

If I'm correct so far, am I also correct in thinking the fuel pump is bad? I'll add that I bought the bike used, and the fuel pump has always been noisy, so perhaps I failed to recognize the significance of that.

I'd appreciate any thoughts. I'm very much an amateur at this!
Do you get any error codes?
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Do you get any error codes?
No error codes.
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 05:49 PM
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Check for power at the wires to the fuel pump and coming out of the fuel pump relay.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Check for power at the wires to the fuel pump and coming out of the fuel pump relay.
I tested with a multi-meter in the socket the relay plugs into (with the relay out of course) and also unplugged the fuel pump and tested at that socket as well, with the relay back in. Both showed 12v initially when key was turned and then fell to zero.

Is that what you mean? Not sure I totally understand the results. Is it programmed to energize the fuel pump circuit for a set period of time when you first turn the key? Or is something wrong?
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 07:30 PM
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Nothing in the system will drop the voltage after the initial ignition on. If the side stand switch or kill switch is in the wrong position or malfunctioning, the pump will not get power but you'll also get a CHEC on the instrument panel and the starter motor won't crank. I'm thinking you might have a bad fuel pump relay that will make momentary contact when first energized but is unable to maintain contact.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #7 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking you might have a bad fuel pump relay that will make momentary contact when first energized but is unable to maintain contact.
That's what I was thinking but I got the same voltage drop in the relay socket PRIOR to the relay. That's what was so puzzling, so I was guessing maybe if the module doesn't sense RPMs it closes the relay?

I might just replace the relay anyway, given its a fraction of the price of a fuel pump assembly.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-18-2017, 08:35 PM
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Check the Y/B and O/W wires to the fuel pump relay with the ignition on. O/W should show battery voltage compared to ground from the ignition system and Y/B should show continuity to ground from the ECM. Make sure you don't see a CHEC where the clock normally shows up. If you don't get that, the relay is not the problem.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-19-2017, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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O/W (mines actually Y/R) shows 12v during the 2 sec prime. Y/B does not show continuity to ground. No "CHEC" showing. Bad relay?
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-19-2017, 11:31 AM
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Y/R is the contact side of the relay. It will show power as long as the relay is activated. O/W is the coil side. It needs to show power to throw the relay. The ECM connects Y/B to ground to throw the relay. If you don't show Y/B continuity to ground to combine with O/W showing power, the relay won't throw. If you don't get O/W+ and Y/B-, that's your problem and the relay is not the problem.

Check for power with the meter probe positive on O/W and negative on Y/B. That is needed to throw the relay. It sounds like you are getting that to begin with then losing it. If that is the case, the tricky part is finding out why. If the ECM is not switching Y/B to negative, it should display an FI or a CHEC, depending on the reason. O/W is hard wired. If you are losing that, it will be easier to trace. I'd hate to think you are experiencing an ultra rare and expensive ECM failure. If you are showing power between O/W and ground but not O/W and Y/B though, it may be the case.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html

Last edited by greywolf; 03-19-2017 at 11:34 AM.
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