Does this look bad? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL650 and DL650A - 2004 to 2011 DL650 from 2004-2006 (K4-K6) and DL650 or DL650A from 2007-2011 (K7-L1)

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post #1 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Does this look bad?

So my 2011 DL650 stopped charging the battery recently. I tried to get to the connections behind the regulator/rectifier, but due to time constraints I decided to just open the crankcase and look at the stator.

Does this stator look bad? The suspect area I saw was at about 2 o'clock on the stator. It looks burnt and the insulation on one of the coils looks a different color than the rest.

Overall shot of the stator


Closeup of the suspect area
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg stator.jpg (64.9 KB, 326 views)

2011 DL650
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post #2 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:31 PM
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Looks a little crispy

Bikes currently owned: 2012 DL650Adventure, 2013 Ultra Limited, 2004 Sportster, 2002 SV650S, 1982 CM250C Honda, 1957 Harley Servi-car
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post #3 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:37 PM
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Yep, if it's not dead yet, it's dead real soon now.

That pale arm has hard the varnish cooked so it has an internal short. You have only 2 of 3 phases at best. The bike will still charge the battery when the rpm's rise but it's only a matter of time until the next one goes.
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post #4 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy48 View Post
Looks a little crispy
+1

not bad for toasting marshmallows, but bad for running and stuff..

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post #5 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:49 PM
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The wires not wound around the stator poles should look the same color. Yours is burnt.

I agree with PeteW that one of the poles looks funny and is likely bad. However, I have to disagree with his implications flowing from that. Phases do not fail one at a time. If one phase develops a shorted turn (or several of them), that will reduce output on the other phase windings, for two reasons: (1) they are interconnected in a way which brings the other two down electrically; and (2) the magnetic path for the other two phases is shared with the shorted phase, and so induction is reduced for them all. And, if any phase develops a short to chassis, so much extra DC current flows that the stator is going to fail totally in the near future. (This is because the AC current is already near the quick-failure level and adding DC current to that has to take it above the level.)

You can become sure the magneto has failed by measuring AC, phase-to-phase output with the 3-wire plug disconnected from the regulator. It should be at least 70V RMS at 5000 RPM engine speed. The resistance to chassis should be very high (MegOhms) and the phase-to-phase resistance should be about 0.2 Ohms more than what your Ohm-meter reads with shorted leads.
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post #6 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 08:59 PM
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I've had a stator fail, and it was progressive. First sign for me was having to keep rpm's high with the aux lights on, lasted a couple of months like that. That progressed to having to charge the battery and ride around town in third rather than fourth, then total failure a week later.


Test as above, but check each pair 1-2, 2-3, 1-3 voltage and resistance should be about the same in all cases and as noted, ~70v. You do the resistance test with the bike turned off . That's quite difficult to do without a 4 wire resistance setup, voltage is a lot easier.
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post #7 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 09:34 PM
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I've had a stator fail, and it was progressive. First sign for me was having to keep rpm's high with the aux lights on, lasted a couple of months like that. That progressed to having to charge the battery and ride around town in third rather than fourth, then total failure a week later.
I spoke imprecisely. Yes, stator failure tends to be progressive, as you suggested. I quibble only with the idea that there are independent phase failures. (It's a somewhat hyper-technical point.)

The progressive failure can also include the bridge diodes in the R/R (rectifier/regulator) when any winding shorts to chassis. That induces much higher currents in the 3 diodes that connect to the negative R/R output, and is likely to damage them. Hence, it is a bad idea to limp along with a failed stator. It would better to disconnect it from the R/R.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteW View Post
Test as above, but check each pair 1-2, 2-3, 1-3 voltage and resistance should be about the same in all cases and as noted, ~70v. You do the resistance test with the bike turned off . That's quite difficult to do without a 4 wire resistance setup, voltage is a lot easier.
Yes X 4.
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post #8 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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The bike isn't charging at all right now (or barely charging). I get 12.1 V at the battery at 5000 rpm.

2011 DL650
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post #9 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 09:44 PM
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New stator time, hopefully you get the latest and greatest model and part number. There is a great thread on the 650 stator recall in the general V-Strom discussion section, I just had mine replaced under the recall.
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post #10 of 21 Old 01-06-2017, 10:12 PM
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Definitely fried stator, a very popular dish in Mexico or more than 50 miles from home.

I would seriously consider upgrading the regulator to a series type (instead of the OEM shunt type) that apparently reduces the heat load on the coils and thus avoids future stator failures. Its best to install the new regulator with the new stator to keep troubles at bay.

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