I know that it was discussed in gazillion of topics, and I read if not all, but most of them. However, most of those topics are quite old, and I wonder if some new developments arose since then.
I use my 2011 Wee for the last 3 years as a commuter, occasional race track day bike and, of course, to tour around (I'd say 95% on road, 5% off road, maybe less due to lots of commuting mileage). I weigh 280lbs and stock suspension just doesn't seem adequate, plus it's plain horrible on track and in twisties. I'd very much like to change it.
My initial idea was to just ship forks and shock to Racetech and let them do it, but they have a horrible backlog and couple weeks wait time, so I just can't afford it for my everyday bike. Since I do all the maintenance, mods, etc. myself, I decided to give it a shot and do upgrade in my garage.
My plan for front is 1.0kg/mm springs and Cogent DDCs (they seem to be much simpler to install than Emulators and are highly praised by Procycle).
My plan for rear is... Well, I don't really have a plan for rear. There is Elka of course, but $1k for a shock seems a bit prohibitive.
So, my questions are:
Are there any difference between brands of springs (Racetech, Procycle, Sonicsprings)?
Are there something better than DDCs for the job?
Should I also replace seals/bushings/whatever else in the forks (now bike is at ~20k miles)?
What are the best 'bang for the buck' options for the rear shock now in 2016?
Very interested in the replies as I'm kinda in the same boat. Mine is also a 2011 and it's got about 80k on the odo and I suspect the rear shock is close to spent.
I think you can get Progressive 465 shocks in the $500 range, but not sure if they are adjustable or have an option of a remote.
I have Sonic Springs and a fork brace which definitely help the bike feel more planted and stable on hard cornering where there are some bumps on the road.
Wow, these look really tasty. I'll give them a call to check if they offer customized spring rates, as I'm not convinced you could have 'one size fits all' spring even if it's progressive rate.
Gosh, I cannot even quote links because my post count is too low.
Anyway, thanks for the links, I'll give them a call to check what exactly is included in re-valving.
On my '07 I changed the front springs(sonic) and oil to match my weight. It helped a lot on the street and a bit off road.
On my '15 I am doing more off road, and I think the best bang for the buck is either Daugherty, or Sasquatch. Besides setting up your forks anyway you want them, both can re-build the stock rear for about 1/4th of what an Elka will cost you.
December is the best time to send your stuff out, since after Christmas they get really busy.
1) Not familiar with Procycle, but all the major brands (Sonic, Race-Tech, Traxxion, Ohlins...) are virtually identical. We all use the same alloys and processing steps. While on the springs, how much to you weigh? On the Stroms it's often a good idea to go a touch lighter in rate then what the various calculators would have you do.
2) Haven't used the DDCs myself, but they have a very good reputation, you may do as well elsewhere but I don't think you'll do better.
3) The bike probably doesn't need them just yet, but with the forks apart anyway I'd do them.
4) Depends on how big a bang you want and what a buck's worth to you. Without question, a good aftermarket shock is the best solution. If you plan on keeping the bike for a number of years and putting a lot of miles on it, then that's definitely the way to go. Otherwise, there are a couple of people out there who can re-spring/re-valve the stock shock. I've dealt with Jamie Daugherty (DMr Performance Suspension) and can recommend him.
1) Not familiar with Procycle, but all the major brands (Sonic, Race-Tech, Traxxion, Ohlins...) are virtually identical. We all use the same alloys and processing steps. While on the springs, how much to you weigh? On the Stroms it's often a good idea to go a touch lighter in rate then what the various calculators would have you do.
I weigh ~280 out-the-shower. Planning to drop it to my comfortable 240 though.
Well, virtually everyone claims something like "...our springs are light weight for their particular spring rate. This requires the finest materials and processing". Just curious if these are legit claims or usual marketing BS.
Actually, I just watched installation video for DDC and it doesn't require any more disassembly than removing spring, dropping cartridge in and putting spring back, so I'll probably skip on seals/bushings for now.
4) Depends on how big a bang you want and what a buck's worth to you. Without question, a good aftermarket shock is the best solution. If you plan on keeping the bike for a number of years and putting a lot of miles on it, then that's definitely the way to go. Otherwise, there are a couple of people out there who can re-spring/re-valve the stock shock. I've dealt with Jamie Daugherty (DMr Performance Suspension) and can recommend him.
REar shock, best bang/buck would be Sasquatch.com.
Just servicing the front shocks, fresh oil and seals can be an improvement. Jay at Sasquatch can offer insight to the front springs too.
Very happy with the Wilbers 641 on my DL 650's. (Plural). It did 120,000k's on the first, and the second is around 110,000 now. It's needed servicing twice, last time a bit overdue @140,000k's on the shock.
I was riding with KTM' 990s and BMW 1200GS's a lot when I did the suspension on my first DL, some of those guys spent > than the value of my bike on suspension to try and catch me .
OK, the last one really is a premature question - all answers are in the DDC manual. Namely, ~600ml per fork leg, and there are recommendations on oil level depending on rider weight too (seems like I need 120mm)
OK, the last one really is a premature question - all answers are in the DDC manual. Namely, ~600ml per fork leg, and there are recommendations on oil level depending on rider weight too (seems like I need 120mm)
At 225lbs, I find .85 spring quite nice on my slightly lengthen damper rod (15 mm)... And I have a set 0.9kg spring to play and compare with . So on stock, I say 0.95 is all that you need - don't go for 1.0kg, even on current weight, at 240, I would even try 0.90.
You need to do the rear at the same time, otherwise you will be getting some incorrect feedback with stock rear. If height is not an issue, and only if you getting a new shock- get a L2 onwards spec shock, it gives you an additional 10mm travel.... Nice
So, 2012+ rear shocks are backwards-compatible with 2011- Wees? Why would manufacturers of aftermarket shocks even build different versions for these 2 gens then?
My DL650K7 has had 2 F&R suspension mods. In the first one done by an expert at 11k miles, I got heavier RaceTech springs, GEV, and a Prog 465 Shock. Loved it; no more bottoming out. [ eventually learned the bottoming was not the fault of the OEM shock but was due to setting the preload so I had only about 1.5 in to the internal metal stop] The next one was last summer at 32K miles when the fork springs were unchanged, GEV removed and most holes in the damper rod welded up and some new bigger holes drilled in upper part of the damper rod, lower visc oil used; and my Prog 465 opened and serviced, most of the gas having disappeared. Vast improvement. For both expert encounters I complained about harsh, busy reaction to manwhole covers, especially the smaller water valve metal covers, and to a harsh rear ride generally. I liked the planted feeling when riding on really crappy roads or during track day. I requested little bit of Cadillac ride. The recent mod changed bike from a troter to a canter so the front comes up and goes down and the rear comes up and goes down, not quite a gentle gallop but never a trot. Who? Barry Wressell, KFG Racing, Kent WA, wife April is racer and owns a horse stable. I've read the RaceTech Bible a few times and probably could do my own suspension work but figure going to an expert is better for me. Learned all experts are not cut from the same cloth.
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