Originally Posted by robardin

Is there an obvious way to fix the horn button niggle? It happened to me again today, and it occured to me that it would be as simple as reversing the angle of the button.

It's tilted to follow the line of the handlebar, so it juts out further on the outside of the button, towards the bar end, than the part that's inside toward the steering column. It's that extra bit of sticking out near the hand grip that makes it intersect my thumb as it moves toward the turn signal button.

So if the angle were reversed - have it hang out more on the INSIDE away from the hand grip - it would be no problem. It would mean a slightly greater effort in terms of moving the left thumb to engage the horn, but it's way too easy as it is now.

Or heck, just make the horn button flat.

How hard could it be to make a substitute horn button for the OEM part and to install it?

Originally Posted by mloomis34

I find that if I use the hand brake to exit the bike (which they teach you in the MSF course, I do not have a problem with the side stand. Other than that, this is one of the best bikes I have ever owned. Even as good (and half the price) of the BMW GS I just sold. BMWs are getting too expensive to buy and too expensive to work on. I looked at the new GS prior to buying the Wee, and the new GS is almost $20,000. The 600 mile service on the last new BMW I owned was close to $400.00. My service on the Wee was $183.00. Also, all the aftermarket stuff and OEM stuff is a lot less expensive.

In other words, I love my new 2012 Wee. Only minor Niggle is, when I coming to a stop and don't downshift quick enough, it makes it hard to downshift back to first gear. SO, I have to be careful to downshift to first gear prior to the bike coming to a full stop. I just came back from a ride to Colorado from Houston. On the first day of the ride back home, I rode from Salida Colorado to San Angelo Texas (703 miles). I was not sore and the bike did great handling my 300 pound frame and approximately 40 pounds of gear. I would also suggest an Air Hawk seat cushion for those of you that get sore bottoms when riding. They are expensive, but cheaper than a new seat.

Enjoy your new bikes and get used to the Niggles!!!

Originally Posted by NeverSatisfied

Interesting avatar, SLT824. (Algonquin). Like to make it up there myself some time...

Oh yea, back to V-Strom quibbles! Hm, only thing so far is that retina-burning "frost warning" light. Finally did a ride this week cold enough for it to activate. It was interesting for a minute, just to see the air temp displayed, after that it became a nuisance. That's my only complaint so far!

Originally Posted by alan29

I must own up to honking merrily while doing a right turn yesterday.

Originally Posted by greywolf

I've seen a number of people mention this. I don't get it. Lateral movement has no physical effect on throttle control. I've also seen mention of throttle cable slack adjustment being important. The fact is the throttle pulls against a spring in the rotational direction so the cable is always taut. The only thing the second cable does is to pull the throttle closed if the mechanism sticks. It's extremely rare for the closing cable to ever do anything. I run my cable slack loose because I use an electronic cruise control. I have no trouble with throttle control.

The problem I see is the rider's mental set. Throttle control on a new bike, especially when running on poor surfaces, has the be gotten used to. Many riders grip the bars too tightly and add throttle and handlebar inputs they don't intend. Just for a test, try using the finger and thumb tips instead of grasping with the hand for a short distance. I'm convinced it's the rider, not the bike, that is the cause of throttle control problems. Also check the chain slack but don't make it too tight. Stroms are more sensitive to throttle control than some other bikes but it is well within a practiced rider's control.