I'd sure like to get a dyno before and after but they are around $150 a pop. I probably won't do it. Seat of the pants dyno is going to have to do.

I'm starting with the cams only. I'll have to get some plastigauge and make sure the cams won't F up the heads. I'm going to check the valve clearances this winter and see how well the Gladius cams fit. If everything checks out, I'll fire it up and see how it runs. The pistons are something that I may do after the 1 year warranty is up.

I've done the same thing to my SV (ported the and flowed the heads with Wiseco pistons) so I've done all this before.

__________________
2005 Suzuki SV1000R
1985 Yamaha XT608N
2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 13,000 miles already!

Okie dokie, It's too cold to ride so I've dove into the cams. Starting at the rear head. There is 12.5k miles on the bike. Just checked the clearance on the rear cams and I got the middle range feeler gauge in no problems on both cams (.152 mm on the intake, .254 mm on the exhaust).

Now the issue, the rear cam chain auto tensioner looks very difficult to remove so I can remove the tension and take the cams out. The front cam chain tensioner looks much easier to access under the airbox.

I'll look around for that VSRI link on how to remove it and see if it is similar to the L2. The ABS stuff is kinda in the way too..

__________________
2005 Suzuki SV1000R
1985 Yamaha XT608N
2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 13,000 miles already!

good for you on this project. There is zero difference on the cam swap on the 2007 - 2011 DL650 abs and the DL650 2012.

The old story is always true, it is much easier and faster to do with the engine out. It makes reaching all the parts, both coming off and going back in and on so much easier, especially with the abs,

It can be done in the frame but not nearly as quickly or easily,

Let me know ho you make out,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

__________________
SV Racing Parts
www.svracingparts.com
b.layton@svracingparts.com

Thanks Blair.

I got the rear tensioner out by removing the brake line guide then using a 10" wobble extension and 5mm adaptor for the tensioner. Got the Gladius cams in and got all the shim numbers written down. 178's on the exhaust and 180's on the intakes. Tech tip: use a magnet to remove the buckets from the heads. Like a magnet picker upper.

So far so good!

Tech tip #2: Use a paint marker on the cam chain and gears to make sure you put them back in the correct position. I used my yellow for tire marking.

Update: Had to get smaller shims for the front cylinder intake cam. Went to Heinen's (dealer) and he gave me the correct sizes for $4 each! And I got to keep the originals! This is a good deal. Waiting for them to order them for $10 each is worst case scenario.

__________________
2005 Suzuki SV1000R
1985 Yamaha XT608N
2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 13,000 miles already!

Good work on the cams,

Great Tech Tip; No one should do this job with the magnet handy,

BTW: on the return shipping label from Akrapovic coming with the Exhaust Warranty Replacement Parts.

They asked me yesterday to be sure to let everyone know that the expectation is that the return parts will be shipped to them within a couple of days tops on arrival of the new parts.

They are experimenting with the ship replacement first and have the customer return the parts on receipt of the return shipping label sent with the replacement parts.

If it doesn't work out that parts are returned in a timely fashion they will have to go back to the former process of the customer ships first,

I think yours should be at your door anytime now if not already there,

Enjoy the ride, I think with the Gladius cams you will have some extra punch in your engine,

Best regards,
Blair

__________________
SV Racing Parts
www.svracingparts.com
b.layton@svracingparts.com

Checked the clearances today and while intake valves are perfect, exhaust valves are out of spec on rear cyl. (0.007") and almost on front one. (0.008")
So thanks for the info

Got the cams in yesterday, I had to get smaller shims for the front intake cam (165 and 160 respectively). Found them for $4 each at a dealer close to where I work.

Anyway, fired it up this morning with no problems motor wise. Had a oil leak from the head cover gasket. It was pinched, took it off again and put the gasket in correctly. Fired it up again and no leaks. Kept the revs below 3500. I suppose I'm going to have to go easy on the revs for a while to "break the cams in".

I will try to go for a ride tomorrow or Sunday and see how it does out on the road.

__________________
2005 Suzuki SV1000R
1985 Yamaha XT608N
2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 13,000 miles already!

No break in is involved. Just go ride.

__________________
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = all DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s

I just realised I made a mistake. Not catasrophically, but minorly. I had my shim values backwards just for the front head, so I have to pull the front cams out again. I shimmed them for .1mm -.2mm EX and .2mm -.3mm IN.

Oh well. At least I fessed up to it.

EDIT: lt looks like I didn't even need different shims, all the OEM ones were fine clearance wise.

__________________
2005 Suzuki SV1000R
1985 Yamaha XT608N
2012 Suzuki DL650AL2, over 13,000 miles already!

Hi, No need to break cams in at all, Just get on the bike and ride,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair

__________________
SV Racing Parts
www.svracingparts.com
b.layton@svracingparts.com