4 Piston Brake Calipers Installed on ABS Bike - Page 5 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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  #41  
Old 12-19-2012, 12:19 AM
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Ok, here is the new(to me) m/c mounted.
ImageUploadedByMO Free1355893933.404151.jpg

Everything worked pretty well, the brake light switch, mirror mount bracket, and pivot bolt moved over without issue. The brake line was slightly difficult to thread up as the pivot stop was slightly lower on the new m/c
ImageUploadedByMO Free1355894085.199554.jpg

I swapped in the stock lever to keep it looking stock and the final product looks great! Even works with the hand guards

So I'm bleeding right now, hopefully will get a chance to test tomorrow. I'm thinking this is an even better option than using a pre-07 wee m/c as the f4i m/c is meant for these calipers. We will see...


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  #42  
Old 12-19-2012, 01:06 AM
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Hi Jeff, The feel and action on this F4 -F4i master cylinder will be exactly the same as with 2004 - 2006 DL650 or the 2002 - 2012 DL1000. They have the same bore and stroke so if you got these with your calipers good on you for bolting them up and using them,

You will find that you have much better control of your brakes with master and will be able to modulate the amount of brake with more precise control and feel for your brakes,

Once you get some feeling of pressure on the brake lever while you are bleeding the brake and get to the point where you think that is as good as you can get it move the bleeder hose up to the banjo bleeder nipple pump up the brake lever and hold it tight to the grip while you open and close the bleeder nipple to burp bleed out the air trapped at the master cylinder,

When you are done that you will want to tie back the brake lever as hard as you can against the handle bar grip with a zip tie, Velcro or whatever you have and leave it overnight to force all the air you can out of the lines and up to the master with gravity and pressure. When you go to bleed at the Banjo Bleeder nipple in the morning remember that you need to hold the lever tight to the grip whenever you open or close the bleeder to nipple to prevent air from being sucked back into the line,

Repeat this process every day for a week and try to get a ride in, however short every day to help you work all the air up to the master, You will find that your brake lever feel gets firmer and firmer,

After that first week, do it once a week for a month and then once a month from then on and your brake lever feel will be so much more positive,

Have fun and enjoy the ride,

Best regards,
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  #43  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:08 PM
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Quick question, how freely does the front wheel turn when spun by hand?


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  #44  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:15 PM
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Once you pump up your brakes there will always be drag, especially when the bike is just sitting there on a stand as the brake pads will probably not fully retract when you release the brakes,

When you are riding they will want to move back into the calipers more fully with the combined release of the brake pressure and the movement of the rotors past the pads,

Did you clean up the calipers when you installed them on your bike to make sure the pistons were moving freely?

Best regards,
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Quick question, how freely does the front wheel turn when spun by hand?


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  #45  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:35 PM
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When I received the calipers, the pads were pressed together, so I had to pry them apart to fit them on the rotor, they moved apart without issue. The front when turns if I lift the front end up while on the centerstand, but will only gobabout 1 turn when I spin it. Other than that I have a very firm lever and braking performance seems to be about the same as stock even after the upgrade. Though this is all subjective


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  #46  
Old 12-19-2012, 08:44 PM
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So I took off work early today and went back through. I read somewhere that I may have overfilled the M/C, so I removed some fluid with a syringe until the top of the fluid level was barely visable in the sight glass. I removed each caliper and removed the pins, backplate and pads. I sanded each pad down and re-greased the pins. I pumped the pistons out and cleaned them all with isopropyl alcohol and verified no leaks and the movement was good. Put the works back together and gave it another go. After coming back from a test ride, the wheel still only turns about 1 full rotation after spinning it with gusto. I'm pretty confident that there isn't any binding and the calipers are working properly, so it may just need time to bed in properly.

Other than that, the brakes seem to be performing better (again subjective). The initial bite seems stronger, though as some have stated the overall braking distance seems the same. One thing is certain, the larger M/C has a much shorter travel than the stock. This is nice because I could pull the stock lever very close to the bar with two fingers, so the new M/C makes two finger braking much easier - in fact, I adjusted the lever to 2 of the 5 positions available (1 being closest).

On another side note, I noticed that the brake switch wasn't being contacted properly with the stock lever swapped in, so I replaced the F4i lever and that worked fine.
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  #47  
Old 12-26-2012, 06:53 PM
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Another quick question; does anyone see this line routing as a problem? The left side caliper had to be run this way in order to deal with the reduced distance between the junction and caliper.
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  #48  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkjedip View Post
Another quick question; does anyone see this line routing as a problem? The left side caliper had to be run this way in order to deal with the reduced distance between the junction and caliper.
probably not a problem per se, but from what i can see from pic (sometimes angle may give an incorrect perception) it looks like it stick a bit out pass the forks - i will be keep an eye out if the bike has a fall in case it gets damaged.


did you take some measurements for your ABS activated braking before and after.

One good thing about the larger bore MC is the reduced kick-back during ABS activation.

cheers
AR
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