My stock chain & sprockets lasted 17K with absoutley no care other than a rare chain adjustment. The streched and worn chain did cause some wear on the top of the swing arm, clearly a sign of my neglecting it. I replaced the stock equipment with aluminum sprockets and a heavy duty chain. After 10K the rear sprocket needs to be replaced. What sprocket should I replace it with? 99% of my mileage is commuting on paved highways.

Sv racing sprocket and chain set. They rock.

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Prior Vulcan 750 rider

39,000 miles on 2011 Vstrom 650 with ABS
(RIP Jan 12, 2013 due to lady pulling out to left from right side)

Steel Sprockets.............weight savings are pretty much "Nil" by going to Al-Yu-many-um unless you race MotoX or something. Lots of sprocket folks tell you their Aluminum units are hardened, coated, yadda, yadda for longer life. Why bother........just go with steel units.

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Current Rides: 2008 Yeller Wee + 2000 ZRX1100
I'm so ugly I stuck my head out the window and got arrested for mooning.
Apparel Security Cables... http://www.stromtrooper.com/group-bu...m-apparel.html

Definitely steel. If you wore the upper rubber chain slider surface you may be running the chain too tight. Big no no. This stresses the counter sprocket bearing and slider wear increases.

Not saying you are too tight, but worn sliders are an indication you may be. Chain should be at 1.25 inch min to 1.75 or so max loose play on sidestand. Ignore what the manual says on this, 0.8 is too darn tight.

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2007 Blue SuperVee 1000
2002 White HD Road King Police
2000 Red Honda XR 400r
2003 Green Honda Rincon 650 ATV

If it is not broken, it can still be fixed

Steel for sure! Aluminum ones are mainly coated...from what ive heard. I run parts unlimited 525 o ring with sunstar sprockets. The SV stuff from this sight is super tough i hear...

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04' Wee. ADVMOTOSTUFF bashplate, Suzuki handguards,Madstad,Anakee 2s, Givi crashbars,fender extender, 16t counter shaft, k&n filter,aluminium radiator &oil cooler guards, 1" bar risers, Garmin GPS, 12v accesory socket, Jessie panniers, voltmeter, MRA, and Saddleman saddle for my ass.

I changed the gearing from the stock 15/47 to 16/45. Chain is RK SXO 525 & is close to maintenance free as you can get. It dropped the rpms above 60 mph by about 1,000 rpms. I put steel rear on as weight doesn't matter that much. It doesn't bog coming from a stop but it isn't peppy until you get above 2,000 rpm to 2,500 rpm. It really makes it run very smooth on the open highway at 70 mph up to 90 mph. As you can see from the picture 75 mph indicated [70 mph actual] is about 5,000 rpm.

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Keep The Rubber Side Down!
2006 DL650
2004 DRZ435S
1999 YZ400F

Are you *certain* about this?... The chain on my Wee only touches the upper-rubber when it is floppy-LOOSE. Infact, when I hear the chain occasionally "ringing" the swingarm like a tuning-fork when decellerating.... I know it it too loose.

Conversely, as I tighten the chain, it lifts off the upper-rubber.

Bruce I think you right there.