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DL650 - 2004 to 2011 [The Wee Strom!] DL 650 up to 2011

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  #1  
Old 12-18-2011, 07:44 PM
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Default Sprocket question

I searched but cannot find the answer....
I am replacing my chain and sprockets and am wondering if anti seize is recommended for the countershaft sprocket nut? I have changed two before (SV 650 and the Strom to 16T) and did not use anti seize. Removal of the nut today was nothing less than a B*tch!

Yes I bent the washer back down first.

After busting my stones last night trying to break it loose,I used Kroil and let it set overnight. Today it took some doing, but I was able to get it loose.

Do any of you use anti seize?

TIA
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  #2  
Old 12-18-2011, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godfather View Post
I searched but cannot find the answer....
I am replacing my chain and sprockets and am wondering if anti seize is recommended for the countershaft sprocket nut?
No. High strength thread locker such as red Loctite is specified. New sprocket nuts have it pre-applied. Heat can be used to defeat it but a long breaker bar or an impact gun are the usual removal tools.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:38 PM
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What GW said plus I take them off with the chain still on and the rear brake locked.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:45 PM
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Thanks Pat, glad I asked first.
I used a breaker bar, but it was still tough....no impact wrench available... yet.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:05 PM
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Comes off easy with an impact. I never have tried it any other way.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khager View Post
Comes off easy with an impact. I never have tried it any other way.
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2011, 05:23 AM
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Default Countershaft sprocket

I have now changed Hmmm...8?...10? or more countershaft sprockets in 42, no count again...44years! I remember to this day changing the sprockets of my first bike, a worn out Yamaha YD3. My experience was similar to your post, was I mad. Just 18years old, my first attempt to undo was the wrong way which added to the..Joy? With borrowed tools, 'cos I didn't own any then, I slipped a meter (3') length of pipe over the socket handle. With my dear old Mum ducking low and holding the pipe, I took a swing at it with the back of an axe! Off it came just in time to save me from an internal explosion. OH! I do remember!

To this day I never over torqued this nut, just a solid twist on the wrench and always folding down the tab washer. I never experienced a problem from this method.

I once bought a very cheap but good little Yamaha 500 DOHC about a 1976 model (TX500?) with a spare engine as the gear box was shot, jumping out of first gear at every attempt. A good wash and an inspection found it was only a v loose countershaft sprocket. On tightening it up I had a perfect $500 bike.

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:59 AM
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Mine came off using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. I put a foot on the brake and leaned over the seat. I have an impact wrench but did not need it. I am getting ready to switch from the 16 to a 17 tooth. The 16 lowered the rpms but no real change in mileage. Good for highway but more shifting needed on the daily commute.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godfather View Post
I used a breaker bar, but it was still tough....no impact wrench available...
An impact wrench wouldn't touch mine. I used a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on the end. I also slipped an iron bar through the wheel and across the chain stays to stop the rear wheel from turning.

The local shop put it on with an impact wrench and I suspect it was overtorqued.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:54 AM
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I use the pipe through the wheel with padding as to not scratch anything. The breaker bar worked but it took alot of oomph to get it to break free. I did not overtorque it when I put the 16 tooth on...maybe I am just getting weaker with the added years
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