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Front Fork Disasembly

3K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  apseagle 
#1 ·
Wanted to know if anyone has actually taken apart their front forks to replace the springs and if so did you take any pictures along the way?
 
#2 ·
is this on a 2014
if so what do you think needs replaced

I don't own one
am looking into buying one
and have you tried to set up the suspension as it is fully adjustable
I did ride one and im 250 and it felt pretty good
just curious
 
#4 ·
If you're doing a pre-2014 with normal forks, here's a link that will take you through it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30

This goes all the way through the process including changing seals, which you probably do not need to do unless they are leaking. Seems like some pretty good tricks on this video, and he uses a Bandit which should be the same as a gen 1 Strom.

If you are taking apart a 2014 or newer (why?) then you'll have to dig deeper.

Doing the springs and oil on my Bandit this weekend!
 
#5 ·
So did some digging.
The basic premise is you will have to compress the preload spacer down against the spring to reveal the stem nut you have to hold in order to screw off the cap of the fork.

There are two holes in the spacer for this purpose.

No pictures yet but since I now understand the issue will give it a try in the near future.

Something I dont understand, this thread is posted in the 2014DL1K forum.
Why do so many people ask if this is for the older bikes?

LOL
 
#17 · (Edited)
This is basically correct. Unless you have a special tool to compress the spring (Traxxion sells a nice one) you'll need a second person to help. Most street USD forks come apart basically the same way, although there are some that are different. I haven't had one of these apart yet, but I looked at the fische and don't think there's anything weird about the Stroms forks.
I'm sure there are youtube videos out there that cover USD fork disassembly, it would be worth reviewing a few.
Generally on USD forks it's difficult to use anything other than the stock spacer. They are typically a shaped plastic piece and substituting a plain tube won't work.

To determine if the spring rate is roughly correct you can use sag ratios. But first, a couple of caveats. One, the sag measurements have to be done carefully and correctly. They are easy to screw up. You have to have at least 2 people, and you have to do it a few times and average the results. Second, don't take the results as gospel, it helps to have some experience and balance the numbers against how the bike feels.
That said, for the forks on the Strom, you would be looking for about 25-27mm of bike sag and 40mm of total sag. If possible I dial in total sag to the number I want for the application at hand, and then see what the bike sag is. If too little bike sag then the springs are too soft, if too much (rarely happens) then they are too stiff.

Link to sag procedure:
SonicSprings.com
 
#6 ·
OK. How bout have you adjusted the forks for load? I don't find mine undersprung. As most of us probably. Is there a chance that the factory screwed up with not enough oil? But then you have already got the springs so there ya go.:smile2:
 
#7 ·
In order to get the appropriate amount of sag the fork preload has to be totally bottomed out (screwed all the way in). This is a bad thing and first sign the fork is too light for the job I am asking it to do.

While playing with the valving can be used to reduce brake dive it is a bandaid to a systemic issue of too little spring for the application.
 
#8 ·
The spacer can be lengthened. Maybe Rich Desmond (Mr. Sonic Springs) will tell us how to tell if the springs are too soft for a rider's weight.
 
#9 ·
Lengthening the spacer will not make up for the lack of spring, it will help alleviate some of the symptoms but your still left with an under-sprung bike. On bikes with no pre-load like my KTM625 that is exactly what we did to increase sag but it only goes so far.
 
#11 ·
many of the new bikes have really bad suspension
my fz-07 was sprung for like 150lbs and my
ctx1300 was the worst fork I have ever had on a bike let alone a 16k bike
Traxxion Dynamics on both bikes fixed both
i fully understand what your after

all bikes are set up for a 1fork fits all and that's is rarely true
each bike needs to be set to the rider weight and intended purpose

the fork on the strom i test rode seemed pretty good but that was just a couple miles

i say fix away i love my new forks on both of mine
the 7 is sold
ctx1300 was Traxxion Dynamics ak20 cartridges
holy crap its like a whole new bike
i wish i could have just sprung that bike as the ak20s are $1300
lots of vids online and its not that hard to do
just get the tools need first
 
#14 ·
This actually my third in addition to ktm950 and other long travel bikes i like to ride in the upper stroke of the fork for general riding leaving the additional travel for the more spirited riding.

I prefer my suspension more balanced for my kind of riding the stock is just far too soft
 
#15 ·
My understanding of suspension set-up is: The first third of travel is used up by the weight of the bike plus fully kitted rider[static sag], the second third of travel is where you do your 'normal' riding, which leaves the final third for 'spirited' riding,emergency braking,abnormal bumps,etc. Works for me anyway :smile2:
 
#18 · (Edited)
I weigh 180# plus gear. My preload adjusters are down to the last ring showing to get the 40 mm total sag. When the bike was brand new I could not get two identical readings--the suspension was too sticky. As the bike broke in and the suspension freed up, the settings became repeatable, and I ended up at the setting I have. I can see where a heavier rider will ride better with higher rate springs.

Anybody near OK City want to check with Rich, let him measure the stock springs, maybe outfit you with new springs that better suit your riding weight?
 
#19 ·
I have been doing some R&D on the 2014+ bikes and have suspension solutions available. But here are some bits of information for you all, hopefully you find them useful. Feel free to ask more specific questions if you have them and I will freely give out any answers you will need (except for my custom valving stacks, of course).

The 2014+ forks would be a trick to change the springs without a proper tool to compress the spring in order to get the top cap off. Make sure you screw your rebound adjuster all the way in so that when you reinstall it you do not mess up the adjustment capabilities. The spring needs to be compressed like previously mentioned to get access to the lock nut and remove the spring.

The 2014+ take the same spring as earlier bikes but does need a spacer cut to make up the difference. Also make sure you reinstall the lower spring cup the right direction, i.e. the same way it came out.

In order to remove the valving section of the forks, a special tool needs to either be made or purchased from Suzuki to unscrew the assembly from the forks.

Suzuki used a much thicker oil than the 5wt usually found in conventional cartridge forks due to their odd valving design in these. I have found ATF to be about perfect and my customers are pleased with the result. If you insist on $$ fork oil, use 10w or for stiffer valving (which does not compensate for too soft of springs), use 15wt.

Because of the design of the stock valving, bleeding the forks after an oil change takes a long time of pumping the damping rod. Be patient, it will get there, but make sure you bleed it fully before setting air chamber height (130mm).

If you have any questions or want to know what I offer, please ask, I am very free to share my knowledge.
 
#20 ·
I forgot to add that I have a blog where I discuss suspension set up data including the proper way to measure sags. A link to it is on my website. My post count is not high enough to post links, so just search for Adventure Power Sports.
 
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